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About Shin

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  1. The nacelle cap pieces were clear styrene, so the entire thing had to be light blocked (minus the rear openings). I did this via handbrushing the inside with multiple layers of black Styenelrez, and airbrushing the exterior. I did have to hand paint the exterior "inside" of the cap, the faces that run up to the clear part. I followed this same process with the base color. It looked a bit darker than the rest of the ship, but not as dark as the accent areas, so I made a mix of Vallejo Metal Color Dark Aluminum (10 drops), and Exhaust Manifold (4 drops). I may accent the ridges layer with a dark
  2. I hope the primer works out, I have heard middling reviews of Vallejo primer. But yes, this paint line is fantastic, many hold it as the finest acrylic metallic series - sprays great (did my Mustang wings with this line), and brush paints fantastically as well, lots of miniature painters use it for their metals. Regarding lifting, best practice would be to use high quality modelling tape (Tamiya for example), and before you apply it, detack it heavily. I usually stick it across the back of my hand or arm a few times before applying to the model. I may be overly cautious (or a slow
  3. Technically you do not need to put on a clear coat before decaling. That said, if you are worried your decal solvent will adversely affect your paint, that could be a good reason to gloss coat before decaling. I have not had the opportunity to decal over the handful of Hataka red bottles I have, so I can't offer specific guidance. The safest thing to do would be to shoot some paint onto a paint mule or plasticard, let it dry, and test your decals on that.
  4. If you're asking about the specific Metal Varnish Vallejo sells in their Metal Color line, I'll just chime in and say I bought it when I got my first few bottles of Metal Color and regretted it. It didn't spray too well and did not improve the finish at all in my eyes. I do not varnish my metallic paints anymore. I mainly use Mission Model and Vallejo Metal Colors, and have not had any problems with using no varnish. The primer (both color and smoothness) will determine the shade and sheen of your metallic paint job. You can use this to great effect - grey primer vs gloss black pr
  5. Apparently I'm on a monthly update cycle, hopefully my next post will actually have something that will look somewhat recognizable. But alas, pylons... I ended up attempting to fill and sand the insides of the potato slicers. By the end of the process I used a combination of Apoxie Sculpt, sprue goo, Perfect Plastic Putty, and Mr. Surfacer 500 to see what would work best as filler. First shot here with Apoxie sculpt, they were mini-trenches at this point that I needed to fill. Sprue goo on the exterior to eliminate those joint lines. Once sanded, wrapp
  6. interesting, don't think i've ever thought about that - i just assumed the thinner evaporates. i've never done it, i don't think I've ever seen anyone do it, and I don't know what you could clean thinner with. Maybe a light wipe down with a clean cloth? Give it some time to air dry off, then hit it with a clear coat. Enamels are relatively slow drying, wouldn't be the worst idea to give it a couple days for the panel line washes to dry up. That said I don't think I've ever seen panel lines affect a clear coat. I hope someone else chimes in if they have had issues.
  7. Oh forgot to mention - definitely disconcerting, especially if you're worried the sludge will stain your clear coat. One way to help mitigate this is by using a fine brush to apply the panel liner, so most of it flows into the line and only a little bit needs to be cleaned up. Called a pin wash, versus a sludge wash.
  8. Glad you're having better luck with the wash. Leaving it to dry will help it settle in there - obviously the puddle in the panel lines will take a touch longer to try than the thin film on the surface. Are you using Mr. Hobby GX with Mr. Color Levelling thinner? That's pretty much the gold standard when it comes to model gloss coating (short of 2K or stuff some car modellers use). 40% clear, 60% thinner. The key is light but wet coat(s), enough that the product can level a bit on the surface, but not enough to run. A sandpaper finish suggests to me that you're spraying too far or
  9. Hey @Dunderklumpen, I think you're on the right track - I don't see the point of having different "sheens" of the same paint colors, when their final look can be altered by various clear coats. That goes into my response to your whole question - I never clear coat for protection, only to change the sheen of different materials. I don't know how much you're handling the actual models so maybe you need more protection than I do. Like you said most things can be built in subassemblies, and that may be one way to separate pieces with different sheens (fuselage may be glossy, landing ge
  10. Hey @DrumBum, are you blotting most of the thinner off the cotton bud before you try wiping the panel line wash off? It should be almost "dry" before you attempt to use it to wipe, you don't want it reactivating most of the panel line wash in the line, just the material outside the panel lines. A few other things to try: leave the panel wash to dry for a few hours before attempting to remove - this gives a chance for the wash inside the lines to dry a bit, and not get sucked up into the q-tip you shouldn't be pressing too hard when wiping off, a light scrub of the su
  11. Short update - attached the pylons halves together. I could have sworn I took a photo of the wiring inside before I closed it up, but I guess it is lost to whims of my phone camera. I kept the pylons off the nacelle before painting for seam purposes - didn't think I'd be able to fill/sand easily the part where the nacelles/pylons meet if I had them attached. The wires from the lighting kit are THICK - I only used two (bussard lights and motor for spinner) and I feel they barely fit into the wire channel in the pylons - even then I had to use Bondic to slightly glue the
  12. Thanks @LOX, so far all the plastic pieces have fit great. The motor fitting was good as well, but I can see the provided lighting kit will be difficult to stuff all the wires and control board into the secondary hull. I too have enjoyed the show - it's different than other series which is fine, and they certainly didn't seem to skimp on special effects and the starship sets which helps with the viewing experience. Back to our programming: after a month and a half you'd think I'd have finished the engines by now, yet here we are... One thing I forgot to mention last po
  13. Yeah honestly paint is very personal, you're going to get a myriad of responses. Ultimately I think availability and access should be high on the list for any considerations. Regarding MMP, try light wet coats with a couple minutes between each and see if that yields better results - usually only need 2-3 for full coverage. I also needed to thin a little more than they recommend to get a good spray from my airbrush. I hear you on the acrylics, I'm in the same boat. That said I still want results, so I gloss with Tamiya X-22 and Mr. Color Levelling thinner, the only par
  14. For one data point, I use Mission Models for 90% of my painting and have been very happy with it. Yes the poly craps over eventually (both of mine have lasted over a year and half each before they chunked up), but the paint works so well for me that I'm willing to put up with it. Just know the poly is not necessary, and that you can potentially substitute their clear primer for poly if you really want. I will say one of the big reasons I use MMP is that it's available at my local hobby store and as an American company I wouldn't have issues sourcing it from multiple places around here.
  15. If you want to stick to acrylic waterbased primers, I can recommend Stynelrez (also repackaged as Ultimate Primer from UMP or One-Shot Primer from Ammo/Mig). It dries quickly with good coverage, doesn't hide detail, and feathers when it's sanded after curing (instead of coming off like a skin). I'd stick with black or grey at first, the white is a little more difficult.
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