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Shin

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About Shin

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    Washington State, USA

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  1. Hey Dennis, just saw this! Please sign me up, would be a great venue to make the Macross Plus companion YF-21 to my just completed YF-19. Thanks!
  2. Thanks Dennis! I too grew up around the show, when it was rebranded Robotech and relaunched in the states. One great thing about this hobby is allowing us to harken back our childhood in a unique way.
  3. Hi all, first work I'm posting on here. Relatively new modeler, this is probably my seventh completed build. Open to any critiques and constructive criticism! The model is of a YF-19 test jet/mecha (they call them variable fighters) from the anime Macross Plus. The story pits this conventionally controlled fighter against a neural-controlled YF-21 in test trials to see which would be the replacement for the current fleet fighter. The photos might hide some of the horrors, but from my own critical eye there's a noticeable amount of silvering in some decals, I butchered some areas I tried to re-scribe, and there are some joins that could have been puttied and sanded better. Also, I snapped apart one of the foot/engine nozzles, which is why they are uneven. I tried making my own stand for the first time, converting this to an in-flight model. This meant drilling a hole and plugging in a styrene tube to support a brass rod. It actually worked out pretty well, but it is very back heavy. I'm hoping the base I'm making for this will support it hah, but wanted to snap some photos first. In the stash is the 1/48 version of this plane, but I'm waiting for my skills to improve before I tackle it. Thinking a color closer to white for that one. This 1/72 version was good practice, and I will be building the YF-21 companion soon as well. Stynylrez grey primer Mission Model paints, Mission Model & Vallejo Metal Color for metals Molotow Liquid Chrome pen & Tamiya clears for the lights Mission Models gloss & Allclad Klear Kote Matte Mig enamel & mechanical pencil for panel lines (I generally like subtle panel line colors, but figured with an anime subject black was the right choice)
  4. Yep, cleanup with water/IPA, try not to leave it to harden inside your airbrush. I don't have Vallejo cleaner so can't speak to that. I canopy dipped once using Aqua Gloss and was able to mask and paint acrylics over it fine. Though I just remembered one of the downsides of this gloss - it didn't seem to sand very well, if you think that'll ever come up.
  5. The Alclad Klear Kotes are lacquer, but Alclad Aqua Gloss is water based acrylic and may be what you're looking for if you want to try something different. Many people swear by it (look at the reviews on this very site), but I personally haven't had good luck with it. I'm fairly certain the problem is on my end though, as it is well reviewed and successfully used by modelers around the net.
  6. I was wondering the same thing recently. From the reviews I gathered there was a concerning number that talked about the motors burning out relatively quickly. Depending on the price of the knockoff, you may be OK replacing them when they break, because it does seem to work. I did two things: If open bottle (Tamiya, Gunze, Mission Models, Life Color, etc.) get one of those $13 Badger stirrers. Other companies make this as well (or they probably all come from the same factory but slap different logos on them). They mix the paint much better and quicker, and are much cheaper than the shakers. The only downside is there is slight cleanup involved. If dropper bottles, I actually bought a $20 jigsaw at the local hardware store (if in US, a Drill Master variable speed jig saw from Harbor Freight), modified it by attaching a ratcheting bar clamp ($2), and use that to shake the heck out of the bottles. Relatively heavy duty, but gets the job done. edit to add: there are videos on youtube on how to assemble the second one if you want to see the process before committing. also, one thing about the shakers vs stirrers - some people are worried the shakers introduce air bubbles into the paint during the shaking process, which will degrade the paint over time or fiddle with the consistency. I haven't seen any ill effects from my shaking yet.
  7. following that nice photo tutorial, if you're using acrylic paint, if any paint got under the masks you can usually lightly scrape away the errant pick with a wooden toothpick. The toothpick is soft enough to not scratch the clear plastic.
  8. While Giorgio provided the best answer, I'll provide a simple one, as I'm assuming this is one of your first models. The instruction's front page (available online if you don't have it in hand yet) will call out what paints they suggest from Tamiya's range for the model. There are charts available to convert to another paint company if those are more readily available locally to you. Also, depending on how far you want to take this hobby, don't feel you need to get every paint on that list. Some are for really small parts, or you can mix to get something close. Read through the instructions to see what you can get on without. Lastly don't feel you need to get exact FSnumber paints. Look at the FS36375 from four different manufactures and you'll see how different they can be. Good luck with your model!
  9. Regarding your "must not be white", I believe in most of these cases the white stuff is matting agent or other materials that are needed for the coat to be effective. I would argue there would be more color shift from changing the reflection/refraction of light on the object from the overcoat than from any of the whiteness (when properly applied, of course), so I wouldn't worry about the color of the medium. I've tried a lot of overcoats because I was never satisfied (probably due to my own inexperience more than anything) with the results. That said the only one I have that has worked perfectly since day 1 was Alclad Semi-matte as a finishing coat on the few modern aircraft I've completed. If nothing else, the Alclad's don't need to be thinned with anything, so that takes one potential factor of screwing up out of the equation. There's no better way than to find out yourself whether they work for you or not. Especially because it sounds like you already own some?
  10. Shin

    Rookie mistake

    Providing you have any interest in trying to salvage this, is the canopy attached to the plane? If not (or if you can easily remove the canopy), you can dip the whole thing in iso alcohol or thinner to get all the paint/klear off, let dry, then redip in klear and start again. If so, you can try to carefully use brushes/qtips with iso alcohol/thinner to get the klear off, then polish with Novus or Tamiya compounds. You'd have to be real careful not stripping paint off the plane body though. Though if you are airbrushing you can probably blend anything you accidently take off.
  11. @phlarris, that looks great! A slight warning in using putty or blu-tac for such things is that you may get a feathered or soft edge, which is why tape is recommended for hard edge camo.
  12. That's a good point, looking forward to giving them a shot. Though good to know if I fudge it up there are after market decals available! I'm pretty much right in the Seattle area. I was actually in Auburn a couple months ago, friend wanted to try out that Dave & Buster's. Fun, but crowded and loud!
  13. That's a nice glossy red, welcome!
  14. You can try Tamiya tape to mark out the hard edges, then fill in space with tape or blutac. If the camo is curvy you can cut the Tamiya tape, or try the thin Tamiya tape for curves. Other companies make both types of tapes of course. Paint the first color, mask, second color, mask, then third. Overspray should not be an issue because the previous colors are still masked. For the order of colors to paint I've seen lightest first to darkest (for coverage considerations), and I've also seen least to most (color with smallest amount of area first) to minimize masking. I would highly suggest trying on a testbed or scrap first, to see if the colors affect each other. Good luck!
  15. I'd be wary. With my bottle, the white matting agent settles to the bottom after a few days of not agitating it, leaving the rest of the liquid clear. If yours is still cloudy after a month, all I can say is that it behaves very differently than my four month old store bought bottle. Perhaps you can get one of those battery operated stirrers to see if it can blend better that way?
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