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Shin

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  1. No problems @Maurice William Hilarius, glad I could help. Regarding the questions above, 1. I have the Tamiya brown and a small handful of the Ammo and they perform the same to me. The benefits of the Tamiya is that it has a built in brush (though some people don't like said brush), while the benefits of the Mig is that there are quite a few colors to choose from (Tamiya only has four I think). With both, be sure to shake often, as the pigments settle to the bottom of the bottom quickly. I use Mona Lisa Odorless thinners (a mineral spirit) to do my wipe away/cleanup. It works the same as the branded enamel thinners, but it's an artist grade mineral spirit you can buy in a large jug - MUCH more cost effective. Also I mentioned I mostly switched to oil paints for my washes. The prepackaged washes are convenient, but if you want a large amount of colors it may end up costing you. Oil paints can be thinned with mineral spirits to do the same as the enamel washes, and you can mix colors to your preferred shade. You can then also use oil paints for weathering. I mostly use my Tamiya/Mig washes now for quick small hits where I don't want to mix an oil paint wash - like cockpits or wheel wells or something. 2. Technically yes you can use an enamel wash over the Tamiya acrylic paint, but I suggest you only do this with the glossy paints. Even then I would still suggest you cover it with X-22. The less glossy/smooth a surface is, the more chance the enamel wash will get caught in the bumps/ridges of the paint, and will be much harder to remove. Either way I suggest waiting for your acrylic coats to dry at least a day before trying an enamel wash. As with anything, practice on a scrap piece or test mule before on an actual project. I'm still experimenting with finishing coats. I've settled on generally using XF-86 flat for something with a very light sheen (F-16 most recently), and AK Interactive Ultra Matte for something that's dead flat (tanks). I tried to get a semi-gloss finish recently with Mission Models Semi-Gloss and it did not work well at all, I want to try the X-35 you mention. You'll have to let me know how that works for you.
  2. Shin

    Still getring silvering

    @Pete FIt is certainly a piece of dogma that is being challenged. When I first got back into the hobby a few years ago this is all i heard, gloss coat must be applied before decals. In the last year or so I have not applied a gloss coat pre-decal, but I have been fine-sanding the areas where decals will be going before application - I agree a smooth surface still helps to prevent problems and helps with positioning. That said there are times where even this isn't possible (around small detail complex surfaces), and decals often find a way to make it work. I guess one example of this in action is decals settling into rivet holes (essentially pockets of air) with a little manual work followed by applications of decal setting solutions and solvents. Why would this process not apply to an uneven non-glossed surface?
  3. Shin

    Still getring silvering

    Hey @Ant79, just a quick tip for the future - try and fix any silvering before applying a matt varnish. There's no real fix after you varnish over the decals besides hiding it with paint as someone above said. If you still have access to the decal you can continue to try hitting it with more solvent or stabbing the air pockets with a small pin, but once you varnish that option is gone. Matt varnish can hide a few small imperfections including sheen differences between decal and paint, but silvering will often show through. Do you have a photo of the silvering, that may help us help you. Sometimes people confuse silvering with part of a clear decal film showing.
  4. Hi @Maurice William Hilarius, I assume by this you mean you don't want the airplane to be too dirty to the level it needs a wash, rather than you don't want to use a wash to accent the panel lines - the "wash" in this case being a common procedure to accent panel lines and rivets. I suggest you go to YouTube and type in "panel line wash" to see this in action, but the easiest way to accent rivets and panel lines is to apply a gloss coat to your model, and then run what's called a wash (or if more targeted, a "pinwash") made up of a non-reactive (to your gloss coat) highly thinned paint, waiting for that to dry for a little bit, and then wipe off with a a paper towel/cottom bud with appropriate thinners if needed. So for example 1. apply a gloss coat of acrylic (Tamiya X-22, Alclad Aqua Gloss, to name a couple popular ones) or lacquer (Mr. Hobby GX100) clear coat/varnish, let that dry (not just touch dry after a couple hours, but decently cured after a couple days). 2. apply an enamel panel line wash (Tamiya Panel Liner, Ammo by Mig washes for already made ones) or thinned down oil paint into the rivets panel lines. 3. After letting that dry for about half an hour, start removing the wash that's on the flat surfaces surrounding the recesses by wiping it away with a paper towel, cloth, cotton ball, q-tip for hard to reach areas - you should be left with only the enamel/oil wash in the rivets and panel lines, and clean areas around them. You may need to use a SMALL amount of enamel thinner/mineral spirits to fully clean the flat areas. Small amount as in dip your q-tip in thinner then blot out most of it on a paper towel. 4. If you want to, after they above is dry you can give your whole model a "flat" coat to turn down the glossiness from step 1, to the desired sheen of your finish. That should get you to where you want to go. The suggested Flory Model washes above can be used in place of the enamel/oil products (I believe the Flory ones are clay based and washed off with water). Keep in mind the above examples are just one combination of chemicals/process to use washes, there are others out there you can explore. Good luck! The YouTube videos should easily and visually explain the process.
  5. Thanks for images from the actual book. The book itself may or may not have some merit, others can debate that. However the advertisements were completely tasteless, among other words.
  6. AK Interactive in their wisdom decided to use graphic footage from the Holocaust (bodies being bulldozed, ovens, etc.) to promote a new book coming out on the 3rd with some B-movie slasher caliber movie trailer on YouTube & Facebook "print" ads. It was... not well received. Not surprisingly the response was less than enthusiastic, as their Facebook page and YouTube video were bombarded with comments condemning them asking them to take them down and apologize. One of the employees tried to argue with people in the comments about how people didn't understand, that AK were likening their book to movies like Schindler's List, to tell a story about human atrocities, in the form of art. I'm no ad exec, but pretty sure you learn in advertising 101 not to use pictures of human atrocities to sell your chipping fluids. They locked comments on their YouTube video then started to delete comments on their Facebook page. Then they DOUBLED DOWN with a second advertisement teaser video showing footage from the Rwandan genocide. As of a few minutes ago they removed all the videos from their Facebook page after racking up hundreds of comments for their actions.
  7. Hey @BlueNosers352nd, personally I don't use any clear coats before decaling, just sand the paint smooth. If your paint reacts to decal solutions or you don't want to sand, a gloss coat beforehand would be a good idea. I then apply a gloss coat of Tamiya X-22 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling thinner for panel washes, though I'm going to try GX100/112 next time I come across a bottle. Any properly applied gloss should do fine as a pre-decal/wash - it doesn't need to be automobile caliber glossy for these applications. Regarding flat, you mention the Tamiya you tried not being flat enough. If I need dead flat, the flattest I use is AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish, followed closely by VMS Flat Varnish - both acrylics. I started with Alclad Klear Kote matte and while I loved the finish, as you found out it doesn't cure quickly. If I want a touch of sheen I use Tamiya XF-86. Since you already have this, I suggest giving it a few more tests without Mr. Color Levelling thinner to see if it gets you to a desired flatness level. Perhaps try thinning with X-20A or isopropyl alcohol.
  8. In my personal experience I've found Aqua Gloss to hold up well to decal solutions and weathering techniques (enamels and oils), but not to sanding. If you're looking or a durable clear coat that can be sanded then polished I suggest Tamiya X-22 gloss, Mr. Hobby GX100 or 112, or if you want to stay acrylic I've used Mission Models gloss as well. Make sure they all have ample time to cure (not just dry) before attempting any sanding and/or polishing. You could try letting the Aqua Gloss cure over a week and try again, but with other more durable options I didn't bother. edit to add: I don't think you mentioned what you are using to apply with the Tamiya polishing compounds with. If you burned through the clear coat AND the paint, I'm wondering if your cloth or whatever you're using is too abrasive and is actually causing the damage.
  9. I use isopropyl alcohol to clean it from my airbrush (as well as to strip it off small parts of a model), don't see why it wouldn't work to help break it down in a brush.
  10. I did what I could with some wetter coats. Short of sanding it down or putting on another wet coat of gloss, waiting for that to smooth and dry, and then trying another semi-gloss, not sure what else could have been done. Either way, more effort than I wanted to spend at this point.
  11. Thanks for the comments Dennis and modelling minion! Unfortunately there was a huge setback that delayed finishing this in time. Namely, attempting to put on a semi-gloss coat ended a disaster. Originally I went with a VMS satin varnish and that sprayed great, but the resulting sheen was a bit too flat for what I wanted. The only other semi-gloss I have is Mission Models, so gave that a shot - instant orange peel. Initially I tried dry coats, and then went with wet coats to try and fix it and it made it a bit better, but there's still a micro-texture to the paint job which you'll see in the photos. I'll definitely have to look into how I want to approach this finish before I attempt things like the Blue Angel I have my stash. I may try Tamiya's X-35 (I use their X-22 and XF-86 flat to great success), or maybe see if I can get VMS gloss to mix with their satin. Either way, since last post, an oil pinwash for the panel lines, the semi-gloss coat, assembly, and detail painting the remaining things. Was thinking about trying adding antennae wire to this, but at this point I'm OK with calling it done. Thanks for all the comments along the way and for hosting a great group build - I didn't get the result I wanted, but found some technical deficiencies to work on and also did my first major surgery with the resin flaps so that's a nice plus. It was also cool to see all the different Corsairs everyone put together, I had only seen them in blue before.
  12. @DrumBum just to present another option if you find dipping doesn't work well for you, you can also polish canopies to get better clarity. Tamiya polishing compounds and the Novus plastic system are popular ones in this hobby, but there are others, including automotive parts polishers. Personally in the few dipping attempts I tried, I had trouble with either pooling or dust settling on the canopy before I could get it into cover. With polishing the canopy can be handled immediately and not have to worry about other factors. Obviously the downside is it's more time consuming - using a motorized tool with a polishing pad could help with this, but I haven't graduated to that yet.
  13. @APA if this helps at all, ran a quick (really crappy) gradient between W&N Artists Oil Titanium White & Ivory Black because I had them out (also the only black oil paint I have). Grey card for you to play with white balance.
  14. Cool idea, great work on your tank so far. I'm going to repeat what I said above and caution you that the white may be also tinting the colors, not just the black. I think it would ultimately be easier to use some grays as a starting point and tinting them to get the correct shades for base colors you want to match your black/white photo. Or add some red/yellow to knock out the blue of your black mix?
  15. I'm not sure I fully understand your question - are you looking for something you want to mix with, or the blackest black? Your mixing question is sort of flawed - what's to say it isn't your white mixing paint tinting the grey either warm or cool? I think all black paints (due to how they are made) are going to show the slightest tint when mixed. This goes from hobby to artist to house paints. Just read through the descriptions of the Winsor & Newton Artist Oils black colors for an example, they are described with brown, blue, or green undertones. If you're looking for a specific shade of grey, I suggest you find an adequate one out of the bottle, or experiment with the white/blacks you have and tinting them with other colors to get the grey you want. If you're looking for the blackest black available to you, look into Black 3.0 from Stuart Semple. It's the blackest paint you're going to get, partially because it absorbs so much light. Doubt this will be useful for mixing though. As far as scale modeling goes, I don't think I've seen any of the common hobby paints labeled "black" that hasn't been an adequate representation of black. Color on a model is also relative, as surrounding hues can shift the perception of what color a paint looks like, so keep that in mind as well. Think I'm rambling at this point, hopefully I gave even a little bit of insight that could help you.
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