Jump to content

Shin

Members
  • Content Count

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

376 Excellent

1 Follower

About Shin

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Washington State, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. is this going to be held up by a rod in flight? any chance you can drill out a channel and run a wire up through the rod, with the battery pack in the base?
  2. Sorry for lack of updates, real life took over for quite a while. But was finally able to pick up where I left off, the engines! (To be fair there was a lot of experimentation over the past couple months with the LEDs to get the results below). I lined the SMDs up along side the chiller grill to bounce the diffused lighting to light the chiller. I think it worked pretty well. Top left - after a lot of testing on how to light the end cap, I determined that putting it putting it at the end of the nacelle would be too bright, while attaching it to the clear b
  3. yeah that's a bummer, but one of the benefits of primer - seeing all these things missed on initial inspection. Two more things: depending on how big these small holes are, you may be better off with putty or something like Mr. Surfacer 500 to fill the holes - if the AK isn't viscous enough. And secondly in the future I can recommend Stynelrez primer (rebranded as Ultimate Primer from Ultimate Modelling products and One Shot by Mig Ammo if those are more accessible for you) to be used on resin. The "rez" part of the name is supposed to symbolize it works on resin. Jus
  4. Model looking great so far! I would personally use PVA glue if the area didn't have much chance of being handled, but if you want something stronger they make a fog-free super glue (CA), or you could also potentially try UV activated bonder. On the latter test to see if yours will yellow after curing. May not matter if you can hide the attachment points. almost forgot - they have 2 part clear epoxy as well, but may come with the same yellowing risks as well.
  5. hi @skyskooter just to be clear are the holes present on the model kit (they've been there the whole time but you didn't see them until the white primer exposed it), or are the holes microbubbles created from the vallejo white primer? if the former, filling it as @It's a disease is the way to go. If it's the latter, I would recommend stripping the model (or careful sanding of the surface if stripping is not an option) and re-priming with something different. Though any reason you are using two primers?
  6. you can also throw money at the problem, the Godhand ($$$$), Dispaie ($$$), or higher end Tamiya ($$) side cutters can provide a "hot knife through butter" cut instead of a "snap" cut. I ended up getting a pair of Dispaie (from eBay seller) after reading a bunch of reviews and was still surprised at how easy it cuts through the sprues attachments and doesn't "ping" small pieces away. I figure a tool used for an action I do hundreds if not thousands of times each kit it was worth investing in.
  7. Hi all, thought I'd throw my yearbook entry onto here of projects finished in 2020. Essentially my third year of my model building journey and despite more time at home due to world circumstances, did not get as much accomplished as I thought I would. However there were a lot of firsts including starting figure painting, first 1/48 scale jet, and dabbling in incorporating LEDs into a sci-fi model. Some photos and corresponding links to topics if I made a thread for it. Enjoy, any critiques and constructive feedback always welcome. Jan - Polar Lights 1/1000 Klingon Bird of Prey (Fil
  8. Hey @Geo1966, look up VMS Metal Prep 4K. Brush on metal primer, looks to be exactly what you're searching for. I've only used it for a couple small flat pieces, none of which has needed much handling afterwards, but so far so good.
  9. You could try a few things. First is to try and wipe the wash out without moistening your cloth with mineral spirits, see if that shifts the not-in-panel-line excess. Secondly, are you moistening your cloth with too much thinner? You only need the littlest amount - I blot out the paper towel or q-tip until it's almost dry of thinner before attempting to remove the excess from the model. You could also work up to the panel line, instead of over it. Third, as you mentioned, it's possible your panel lines aren't deep enough. Do you have a photo? If this is the case you can always
  10. What paint are you using? I've used Mona Lisa Odorless Thinners (artist grade mineral spirits) on my enamel washes and oil paints, and have not had any interaction with my acrylic paints (Mission Models). In theory if you give the acrylic paints a chance to cure, most shouldn't have a problem with mineral spirits or enamel washes. Sounds like you already have a plan with the oilbrushers. I don't see why the panel liners couldn't be used as a sludge wash, they may be too thin for this purpose, but let some dry and if you carefully remove it it should give a similar effect?
  11. Shin

    Flat clear coat

    Hey Martin, if you already have the flat clear H103, I say give that a shot on a test piece of painted plastic and see if it gives you the result you want (as well as to test your compatibility). In theory you don't want to use the Levelling Thinner with flat coats, as the levelling out would probably give it a semi-gloss sheen. For aircraft I personally like the not-fully flat sheen that Tamiya XF-86 flat gives. I thin that about 50/50 with X-20A or isopropyl alcohol and lightly spray it on. Good luck!
  12. Many other solutions are two part - a setting agent (Micro Set, Mr. Mark Setter) followed by a solution agent (Micro Sol, Mr. Mark Setter). You apply setting agent on the model, apply the decal on top, squeeze out excess liquid, then hit it with the solution - and don't touch it, let the magic work. These one part setting/solution products may have alternate application methods. Don't listen to other people yet as it doesn't sound like you've even tried it with Tamiya's own instructions for your product yet. Apply with spare decals on a test mule first if you aren't s
  13. I haven't used the Tamiya one, but I'm wondering if the boiling water is your issue. I've never heard of using boiling water for decals - warm/hot water for thicker Tamiya ones, but not boiling. Perhaps the boiling water is completely destroying the adhesive on the back of your decals? The water isn't for "soaking through" the decals, it's to get them to release from the backing paper. After I remove the decal from the water bath I wick off as much water as I can, then once the decal is able to slide on the backing paper, it is ready to apply to the model. I suggest y
  14. glad the MCW is working well for you! Just a warning in the future if you do decide to try Mr. Color GX100 - it is a lacquer based clear, not acrylic. In case you're wondering why it's interacting unexpectedly with other things you may be applying to the model
  15. Project looks great so far! Have you given Tamiya X-22 or Mr. Color GX100 a try? Thinned with Mr. Color Levelling thinner, either of them are pretty bombproof and can be wet sanded. I haven't heard anything good about the Alclad Klear Kote gloss, but many people swear by their acrylic Aqua Gloss. Not sure how well it holds up sanding though.
×
×
  • Create New...