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patmaquette

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  1. Many thanks @Murdo, @bigbadbadge and @Johnson for your kind and encouraging comments on the build so far . I have now completed adding further details to the engine bay. I've left most of them unpainted so they can be picked out in the photos. One item missing from the instructions is a pipe (part C14) that attaches to the Coffman engine starter at stage 64. I didn't notice this until too late and used wire for the piece of pipe, but I thought it a bit strange that Airfix had provided location holes for it!.... Although I have heard of a Coffman starter and have a rough idea how they work, I've never seen one. From what I have learnt when building this model (making kits is a fun way of learning, as I have found since childhood!), the Coffman starter installed on the Typhoon's Napier Sabre engine has a carousel of five cartridges each containing a cordite charge. One is used at a time for starting the engine and the gases pass through pipe C14 and drive a piston in the cylindrical portion of the starter. The piston causes - by means of a thread - a shaft to rotate and this drives gears in the rectangular portion which connect to the upper engine crankshaft, causing it to rotate. A diagram I have been working to shows a hand cranking mechanism on top of the rectangular portion, so this was added from square section plastic rod with some circular housings added - visible in white in the photo below.... Other items added are a cartridge loading lever (and a filter housing which I guess is unrelated) on the starboard side and a firing unit on the port side. In the same area is a push-rod arrangement which goes to the front end of the engine via a bell crank. It connects to a constant speed unit which I made from scraps of plastic.... It has some interesting colour details that look good... On the opposite side of the constant speed unit is a vacuum pump. This looks to be made from brass or bronze. This was once again made from scraps of plastic. It was painted Sand and given a dark brown wash over a coat of Klear. A pair of pipes run across the top of the engine so are quite visible. I used tinned copper wire for these and will give them a coat of varnish to prevent them going dull. The other thing I did was to check that pipes and cables going into one side of the firewall had a continuation on the other side. Some more piping will be added later for the fuel tanks located along the leading edge of the wings. I'll complete the painting of these details as I work on the next stage of the build, which is the wings. Thank you for stopping by to look! Cheers, Pat
  2. Very interesting information, Chris. That settles the matter perfectly. I'll also let the presenter at the Jet Age Museum know, as he had been studying the life of Robert David Ackers. Thank you so much for giving your time and expertise to help me out, I really appreciate it. Best regards, Pat
  3. Chris - thank you looking into answering this question, I much appreciate it. Additionally, thank you for researching and publishing on this (and other) aircraft, it's been the go-to source for me. I'm glad I didn't go for JR128, that would have been an embarrassing error! Although I guess it is not an important point, but is one I'm curious about, do you know whether David Ackers was shot down by flak (squadron report) or by Bf109s (The Combat History book by Richard Townshend Bickers)? Thanks sgain, Pat
  4. Some nice subjects and scales there - I'm looking forward to them hitting the shelves, Pat
  5. Hi everyone, Progress has slowed since my last posting, but I have now installed the kit parts for the engine bay and started on adding some extra detail. I have also reached the point where I need to decide on the aircraft to depict and have spent some time working on this (and maybe you can help me with this? - see later). The engine block needed to be massaged into position: there is a cruciform-shaped spine that runs throughout the length of the engine and supercharger, and protrudes out to locate the assembly to the fire wall. To get this into place also requires the engine mountings to be eased aside. Airfix rely on the soft and flexible plastic to get the parts to fit together - I think it would be nigh-on impossible to build this kit with the hard type of plastic we get from most other kit manufacturers! Having wrestled the engine into place, it had to be pulled apart sufficiently to apply glue and then pushed back and held there with lots of clamps whilst the glue set..... Here is the engine with some of the harnesses added... I have been looking forward to putting on the photoetched grille that Iain @(ex)Sgtrafman let me have, and it did not disappoint. The plastic parts of the radiator assembled together quite well, but the joints along the sides need careful filling and sanding because imperfections would show under the metallic finish. Note the fine raised edges that run around the front and rear need to be preserved: straps holding the radiator to the mountings above run between them and I used a slightly different tone to the radiator to represent them. The radiator was airbrushed Citadel Boltgun Metal over a primer of black Mr Surfacer. Aluminium was sprayed onto highlights and a darker shade, Vallejo Oily Steel on the undersides. The faces were airbrushed Vallejo Track Colour to provide a dark neutral brown backing to the pe grilles. The grilles were airbrushed with Vallejo Smoke with Thinner Medium, mainly around the outside and along the braces, leaving the middle areas with very little paint. The grilles fitted really well and were secured in place with Klear as per Radu Brinzan's instructions. The Klear was applied lightly around the edges, trying to avoid it tracking through and filling the fine holes in the grid. The radiator piping looks to be a dark colour in photos, although some show them as silver. I opted for oxidised copper and undercoated the pipes with Vallejo 70.880 Khaki Grey.... and then applied a glaze of Humbrol 10 dark brown mixed with Liquin Fine Detail. This glaze was removed from highlighted areas..... I think the idea was right, but I should have used less brown paint in the glaze as it has come out far too dark. Burnt umber oil paint would probably have been a better choice of paint as well. The finish is too shiny and so I'll cut it back with some satin varnish later on. The glycol coolant ring header tank has a flexible hose that I represented with some turns of 0.5mm string.... This was coated with black Mr Surfacer. Metal connections top and bottom were added from 0.6mm lead wire..... The circular front plate behind the spinner should have holes for cowling fasteners and some notches cut in. Also, it benefited from thinning around the edge that lies against the header tank. The hole positions were marked onto Tamiya tape using the cowling panels as guides. Photos were used for placing the notches.... I painted the front plate with Vallejo Grey-Green, followed by a coat of Klear and then a pin wash of Vallejo Smoke + Klear. I also used this paint mix for the underpan. As I intend to display the model with the cowling panels removed, I decided to thin down the edges and add some internal stiffener detail (not that I could find a photo of it) using Tamiya flexible masking tape.... The carburettor intake was painted in Tamiya Medium Sea Grey with Vallejo black-grey for the flow splitter. A jubilee clip was represented by a strip of metal foil that was glazed with some Smoke + Klear..... I noticed a cross brace was missing from the frame above the radiator. This was added from plastic rod but, quite honestly, little of it could be seen once the radiator was installed.... Here is the model assembled with the kit parts before I add any further detail into the engine bay... The first items of detail I added were a couple of triangular brackets from plastic card. These attach to the front of the radiator mounting. Typically for me when making items from sheet (whether plastic or metal) is to do internal cutouts first..... And then score for folds and cut the parts from the sheet.... Doing it in this order reduces the risk of the sheet splitting or twisting. Some extra-thin Tamiya glue was run along the folds and the parts set to dry square..... They were then glued in place.... Don't worry - I'll not bore you with every detail I add. I thought it might be useful for some who are starting out with adding their own details as to how I found it best to do mine. ************* The next stage after completing the engine bay is the wing. Various holes need to be opened up in the lower wing depending upon which aircraft the builder selects. So now having reached the point where I need to decide on which aircraft to build, I am thinking of straying from the kit options after having heard a presentation by the Jet Age Museum on 183 Sqdn pilot FO Robert David Acker RAFVR who died when his Typhoon was hit by flak in an armed recce attack on 18 August 1944 in the Falaise area. I would like to depict my model as the one in which he was flying when he was hit, however there seems to be some uncertainty as to which of the squadron's aircraft it was. There are differing accounts as to how he was killed and in which aircraft he was flying. The presenter said that JR128 HF-L was most likely, and indeed "Hawker Typhoon, The Combat History" by Richard Townshend Bickers does list this aircraft as being brought down by flak near Livarot on that day. A second option was MN595 HF-D which the reference also lists as lost on that day, but this time as being brought down by a Bf109. In checking through my books and searching on-line, I discovered that I could download (for a small fee) squadron records from the National Archives. I found those for 183 squadron for the month of August 1944, but rather than add certainty it confused the matter. It also made sobering reading. I read there were nine aircraft on that mission and that David was flying JR431 for the second time that day. So why am I confused? - well JR431 was also listed in a later mission so could not have been shot down - and all the other aircraft on the same mission were also used on later ones. JR128 was not mentioned at all in the record for that month (so therefore no mention of its loss). MN595 was in action up until 15/8 but no mention is made of its fate on 18/8. The record says attacks were made by rockets and cannon, so I will install rocket rails on my model rather than bomb racks. In the absence of confirmation that David was flying JR128 when he died, my first alternative is JR431, but I do not know the squadron code for that aircraft. My next alternative will be JR390 HF-U which David flew on missions twice the day before he died. Looking through the invaluable information in the AMW Hawker Typhoon supplement by @Chris Thomas, all of these have the smaller tailplane so I can get on with building the model while I finalise my choice. MN595, on the other hand, has the larger tailplane, so I'll avoid that option unless something convincing turns up before I commit glue to that part! If anyone has any information or opinions on the above I would love to hear them! Thank you for stopping by to read Cheers, Pat
  6. Thank you, Iain - I'm getting closer to fitting that grill. I glued the engine in place today and have started attaching the various conduits. Should be ready for the grill within a week or month! I'm glad you like it Alan . This big model is a good way to get to know the ins & outs of the aircraft, although I'd much rather work on the real thing of course! With the cockpit about done, now onto the engine. This was primed with black Mr Surfacer 1500. I noticed some flanges were missing on the four supercharger outlets so added these from rings cut from plastic card..... (you can also see some filler has been put over some quite deep shrinkage dimples in the carburetor). and then cut to shape in-situ..... Xtracrylix XA1036 RAF Dark Camouflage Grey was then applied to upward facing areas of the engine. The airbrush was held at the 10 o'clock position over the engine and the paint directed down, leaving the black primer coat visible in areas of shade. A gloss coat of Tamiya Clear X22 was next and this was followed by a pin wash of Citadel Nuln Oil shade mixed with Klear. Highlights were picked out with a medium grey oil paint diluted in odorless thinners. This was applied lightly to edges. Larger areas such as the ducts on the top of the engine and pipes had the oil paint brushed on as a line and then the edges were feathered using a clean and dry Microbrush. Various conduits have also been painted and are ready to install. I used Vallejo 71.065 Steel as the base colour. A mix of 70.939 Smoke and Klear was applied to the braided areas and various connections.... The distributor cable harnesses were also given a glaze with the same mix. Medium grey was brushed onto highlighted areas of the banding around the cables. As mentioned above, I have now started assembling the parts into the engine bay. I think I will fit all the kit parts before deciding what additional detail to add. I'm having problems figuring out what details are in the kit and those that have to be made, and making sure I don't do something that makes assembly difficult later. So I'll take the safe approach I think. I still haven't decided on which aircraft to finish the model as. I've read "Hawker Typhoon - the combat history" by Richard Townshend Bickers and that has given me some ideas. Ideally, I would like to find one flown by a French pilot (as the kit was a gift from French club members) but haven't found an example yet. Many thanks for stopping by to look! Any thoughts or comments would be much appreciated Cheers, Pat
  7. Best wishes for a full and speedy recovery, Crispin. Please do keep us posted. All the best, Pat
  8. Hi everyone, I have made a little more progress and the cockpit is about complete. I have continued to add details here and there that I have spotted in photos, but the Airfix kit is pretty comprehensive as it comes. I finished decalling the instrument panel and popped one or two details on the reverse side (a cable, support plate and windscreen heating duct) that are visible though its openings as an "amuse yeux". Here is the completed job, save for the pilot's seat that I'll add later so I can check it sits centrally in the fuselage..... I've now moved onto working on the engine and will post about that later. The order of assembly of the engine and various pipes seems to be really important so I'll basically follow the sequence given in the instructions and add details as I go. I'm looking forward to adding the radiator grille p.e. that @(ex)Sgtrafman kindly let me have. Thanks for your interest and stopping by to look , Cheers, Pat
  9. Hi everyone, Thanks again for your interest and comments. I'm continuing to enjoy myself making this kit. One thing I find attractive about this large scale model is that you get a good idea of how the real aircraft was constructed. Airfix have done a good job of including some of the key items of pipework as well. Having looked at photos and diagrams, I thought it a good opportunity to add some more plumbing so that I could get to know the aircraft more. I started at the cockpit side of the firewall and added a cross and piping which I think are for the air pressurisation of the fuel tanks.... There is fuel piping that runs beneath the footrests which has an orange-brown colour (but I don't know if this was the original colour or what it has aged to over the years). Anyway, as little of it will be seen once the model is built, I went with this colour anyway, which was an undercoat of Humbrol 100 dark orange followed by Citadel Screaming Bell which gives a lovely warm coppery tone. I have a little more piping to add at the rear end of the cockpit (piping that runs to drop tanks plus the air pressurisation for these), but need to come back to that later once I have the panel in place on the starboard side of the cockpit, as this has various valves and priming pumps to connect to...... You may be able to see that I added a petrol filter and a crank for the rudder control wires below the pedals. The pedals themselves have "leather" straps added and these were given a coat of sand coloured paint followed by some dots of Vallejo Pale Sand along the edges. A stripe of Vallejo 70.828 Wood Grain mixed with Vallejo Glaze Medium to give a transparent paint was brushed along the middle of the straps, leaving the previous colours visible along the edges. I noticed late on that the rudder pedals had holes in their sides so I replicated these with 1.3mm circles punched from black decal sheet... The Airscale decals for the side panels have been applied and I'm part the way through doing those for the instrument panel. I used Klear for these. First photo shows the parts before sticking the decals on.... Airfix include some nice detail on the outward face of the starboard side panel. I added some terminals from a section of 1/700 warship ladder photo-etch cut to length, clear covers over the terminal boxes and wiring run to the conduits entering from beneath. A couple of further details seen in photos were also added.... I also added transparent covers over the terminal boxes on each side of the footrests.... And some pulleys and aileron control cables..... The side panels (but not the instrument panel or oil tank) have now been glued into position and left to set overnight before continuing tomorrow with some further piping detail.... Regarding pulling together various photos and diagrams from books, I have taken to photographing what I need from them so I can quickly find & view everything on my tablet. It saves cluttering the workspace and headaches from trying to remember where I had seen things. It seems to work well. I hope you found something here of interest and thank you for stopping by to look Cheers, Pat
  10. It's looking good, Mike. I've got my own one following along and it's the biggest kit I've done in decades, so will be interesting to see how well my painting and weathering methods scale up for it. Good luck and I hope all goes well, Cheers, Pat
  11. Instrument panel...... The kit has a front and a transparent rear part. I spent some head-scratching time trying to figure out how best to proceed as the clear part had one or two problems - it didn't fit too well to the front piece and had some gaps and shrinkage dimples in the instrument faces that put me off. Ideally I would had cut individual thin clear discs to pop in each instrument hole, but do not have punches of the right diameters. However, I have inherited my dad's little lathe which is fun to use so decided to make some instruments from a piece of clear plastic (a cocktail stirrer from a bygone era of going on holiday in an aeroplane)..... The inside edges of the front piece were painted black before the instruments were glued into place to avoid the grey plastic being visible. It was only later when I realised it would have been better to have made the instruments from opaque plastic. Here they are being tried in place..... The edges of the back face were thinned around the edges and the rear painted black. I'll probably add a cable or two to these where they may be glimpsed through any gaps. I've started painting the front face of the instrument panel and will post a photo when it's done. Many thanks for looking, Cheers, Pat
  12. Hi and thanks everyone for your help and interest. I would have posted a progress update earlier, but had problems with the image hosting site. But it seems okay now. Seat..... I have been working on the seat recently, using the Airfix one as a practice piece before working on the Barracuda resin one I had bought. Here are the two ready for paint.... First step was to prime with Mr Surfacer 1500. I chose the black so it would help with shading... The following day I masked the back cushions and then airbrushed with Alclad aluminium. The result did not come out as nice as I had hoped in the bucket part of the seat.... The day following that I gave the aluminium areas a brush coat of Klear, followed an hour or two later with a second coat with some Citadel Nuln Oil added to it. This added some nice shadow relief around the detailed areas. Yet another day after, I applied some coats of chipping fluid and followed up with Tamiya NATO black. Chipping was then done using a cocktail stick soon afterwards. Then it was decision time: do the same treatment to the resin seat or leave it in aluminium..... I decided on having it black. Having brought the resin seat to the same stage, the masking was removed (along with patches of primer). Some residues of liquid mask had also crept through and needed a surprising amount of teasing to get off. I should have used Tamiya tape instead of the blue 3M stuff, I wanted to get a light and shadow effect on the quilted seat back as I think it would have looked a little more padded than today's surviving examples (but I may be well be wrong). This is where I found the practice seat useful to experiment with. I started with light and dark paints of a suitable colour: Vallejo 70.987 Medium Grey was applied to the shaded areas (mainly the lower half of each quilt "diamond")... and 72.034 Bone White elsewhere... The lines of stitching were far too dark, so a heavily thinned coat of Medium Grey was run along these to lighten them a little. I noticed from photographs that the top edge of the cushion has a leather strip and there is some dark edging around the slotted opening at the bottom of the cushion. These were picked out in dark brown first and then black-grey, leaving some dark brown visible at the edges. The cords at the top of the cushion were painted Vallejo Iraqi Sand..... An oil paint mix of Naples Yellow, Raw Umber, Yellow Ochre with a touch of indigo was used to blend the light and shade areas and add some warmth to the colour. I quite like the resulting cushion, although many will think it has too much contrast. I now repeated this on the resin seat, although this time I started by muting the areas of dark stitching before going on to colouring the quilted patches. The seat straps were painted with Citadel Morghast bone for the shade, with white added for the base and highlights. Metalwork was black-grey on the shoulder straps, steel for the clasp ends and aluminium for the quick release box, all given a wash with Citadel Nuln Oil. Here are the seats competed apart from some fine stitching details along the centre of the straps, if I feel bold enough to try! I hope there is something here you found of interest and that the post was not too long and boring. Thank you for looking. Cheers, Pat
  13. They arrived safe and sound in the today's post, Iain. Thank you once again for your help and generosity All the best, Pat
  14. Iain - that is very generous of you - yes, I would love to have them. Let me send you a message with my address, Cheers, Pat
  15. Thank you, Mike - I'll take a look at your thread. I took a look for the RB radiator mesh, but I don't think it is available at present owing to supplier problems. Thanks again, Pat
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