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Posts posted by Lorebor

  1. 1 hour ago, Col Walter E Kurtz said:

    The panel lines look.. spot on! May I ask how you approached this aspect of the weathering? 

    On the glossy model, I just did an oil wash with a medium gray; to give you an idea, it had a hue slightly darker than the Tamiya XF-54. I used the same color on the gray parts of the plane and on the black fin.  Panel lines are reasonably deep, so it’s an easy task.

    • Thanks 1
  2. 10 hours ago, SAT69 said:

    What an extraordinary build! The cockpit is truly awesome! What is the kit like to build?

    It’s a big model with a huge amount of parts, so it takes time to build. Nevertheless, the kit goes together remarkably well. It has a number of options during the building phase, so you need to plan in advance. The kit is engineered so that the radome can be left open, so, if you keep it closed, you need to do a bit of sanding in that area. Same thing for the dorsal spine, as it is broken down in two parts, in preparation for the new kits that will come out later on (different Tornado versions have a different dorsal spine). I dry-fit the slats and the flaps in the retracted position and looks like they fit the wing perfectly; if you put the wing in other than the fully forward position, you need to cut and adjust the wing retraction vane rubber seal. Landing gear wheels are provided both in rubber and in plastic, the later with weight effect; I suggest to use the rubber ones, as their design is much more realistic than that of the plastic version.

  3. 20 hours ago, Shorty84 said:

    Which modifications were needed to convert the A-37 to the T-37?






    Markus, I eliminated the big antenna aft of the cockpit...




    ...some minor changes in the instrument panel...




    ...A-37 exhausts are bigger than T-37's exhausts, so I closed  and rebuilt them...






    ...wingtips were scratchbuilt with some styrene layers and sanded to shape...




    ...air intake must be modified...






    ...wheels were scratchbuilt in resin on a lathe...




    ...I also scratchbuilt some new landing gear doors...






    18 hours ago, TheyJammedKenny! said:

    First rate job and really looks the business!  As a cadet I had the privilege of a 30-minute flight in one out of Randolph AFB in 1989.  Very responsive controls, high G onset, lots of fun, and managed not to barf (100% oxygen helps).   @Lorebor: as a pilot of course you know this--but we were told to disconnect the part of the parachute harness that crosses our chest, when not in the aircraft, "just in case" we managed somehow (stupidly) to accidentally pull the ripcord while bee-bopping across the flight line.  What did you end up flying after UPT?

    ...the good old Tornado...

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  4. 10 minutes ago, SAT69 said:

    Truly a wonderful piece of work. I was an aircraft maintenance instructor at Sheppard some years ago and remember the Tweets well.  Your model revived pleasant memories as we had an example or two which we used as training aids during lessons on how to inspect an airplane "by the book".

    I spent a few months in Sheppard in the Nineties, then I moved to Reese AFB where I got my wings flying the Tweet and the T-38...Wichita Falls was a nice place to live in...

    • Like 1
  5. 4 hours ago, bobsyouruncle said:

    I picked up the Aires cockpit set and figured I could use some of the kit parts from the front of the Revell kit in the rear?

    How big a task did you find that? Great piece of work anyway.

    Cheers Bob.


    here’s how I did it: I made a resin copy of the front cockpit throttle assembly and the rear cockpit left console:





    I then scraped all the details on the rear cockpit left console:



    The left console details (radar and radio controls on the real plane) were moved backward and glued behind the throttle assembly:





    The only part that is really hard to reproduce is the rear cockpit flight instruments cover; thankfully, a friend of mine 3d-printed it for me…



    Hope it hepls...

    • Like 2
  6. 12 hours ago, Hobo said:

    How did you shade the raised areas in the cockpit to give a "shadow" effect?

    I highlighted all the raised areas with Vallejos, using hues that are much lighter than the base color; after that, I made an oil wash with a hue much darker than the base color, trying to push the oil in the recesses.

    You can notice that on the door, where the ribs are painted with a green lighter than the base color...

    Hope it helps...

    • Like 1
  7. 7 hours ago, Spitfire31 said:

    Did the Israelis actually paint their crowbars red? 😉

    ...who knows...but I like to think so 🙂


    6 hours ago, 28ZComeback said:

    The bare metal is outstanding. Which products did you use, and did you overcoat? Great work!! 

    I used Tamiya AS-12, sprayed with my the airbrush and diluted with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. The darker panels were painted with the same AS-12 added with a drop of Alclad Steel.

    After laying the decals, I coated the model with Future diluted with Tamiya X-20A Thinner, did a dark grey oil wash and airbrushed a very light layer of Gunze Flat Clear...

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  8. Hello everybody,

    I’m starting a 1/48th  Revell CH-53 and I’d like to reproduce the rivets on the fuselage. Both Archer and HGW make them in resin on clear decal film, but I’ve received an unsatisfactory feedback from a friend of mine about the HGW item.  Has anyone of you ever used Archer rivets, so that you can give me a feedback on them?

    Thanks in advance!


  9. 50 minutes ago, Gary Brantley said:

    Were all the rigging attachment points eyeholes, as it appears?  I assume one threads the line through the eyes and then glues the loose end back to the stretched line?  

    Exactly, all the rigging attachment points are eyeholes; most of them are provided as photoetched parts in the kit; the missing ones (those on the tail booms and landing gear) were made with copper wire rings.

    The fishing line goes through the eyeholes and the Albion Alloys tubes as shown in this picture:





    • Like 1
  10. Gary,

    I didn't count the hours I put in the rigging process but I can tell you it was a big number 🙂

    I started with the rigging of the engines struts because it would be almost impossible to reach them once installed between the upper and lower wings.



    After gluing the engines and the upper wing, I did the rest of the rigging between the wings. Only then, I glued the tail booms and rigged the rest of the plane (tail, landing gear, tail booms)




    I used 0.10 mm fishing line; the turnbuckles were made with 0.5 mm Albion Alloys aluminum tube, painted with Humbrol Gold. The fishing line was painted with Humbrol Flat Black, so that I could easily wipe it off the model in case some paint would drip on the surfaces (the model was painted with Gunze).

    Hope it helps…

    • Like 1
  11. Good evening to everybody. I'm Lorenzo, I write from Italy and I just joined up, even though I've been following Britmodeller for a few years.

    I started modelling since I was a child and I have never serioulsy healed, so I'm still here gluing plastic pieces together...

    I build airplanes in every scale and belonging to every historical period; sometimes I also try to paint figures, but my main interest is planes.


    Regards, Lorenzo.



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