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Tank1812

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About Tank1812

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  1. I would use Micro sol or Micro set for decals. If you still have slivering, then carefully with a new #11 blade, poke a small hole in the center then reapply the setting solution over the top that should help pull that area snug to the model. Also before applying the decal add future or gloss coat in the area of the decal, that should level surface and allow the decal to adhere better. Then apply the finish you want (gloss, satin, flat) over the decals when dry. For the nacelle drop, I would probably leave alone for this model. In the future I think sanding front half of the pylon would help raise the rear but I am not that familiar with the kit. The trick would be to get both pylons and nacelles to the same axis. HTH
  2. I agree. I used to not like Vallejo paints but using their retarder makes a world of difference for the airbrush. Also the pressure used and length of spray can add to a dry tip. I always have a qtip with window cleaner on standby to wipe the tip ever now and again. A quick air spray away from the model before I continue painting.
  3. I need to finish my Tamiya bulldog http://www.ipmseaglesquadron.org/ES-Forums/index.php/topic,1472.0.html I really like the price point of the kit. I think the AFV Club/Skybow kit is probably better but the M41 is not my thing so I am not 100% sure. Since you already messing with resin why not make a mold of the legs from the knee down. Then you add them to base before you add the water.
  4. I would agree, a Tamiya M41 Walker is a great kit to get your feet wet again. I like the dio idea and what you have done so far. One thing I like about the reference photo, is the first guy couldn't give two beans about being on that patrol, while the other two seem more motivated about walking around in the water.
  5. Finally had time to mess around with apoxie sculpt to make a cloak but it looks more like a shaw. If this doesn't work, Cheewie's cousin can play the wolf in little red riding hood.
  6. Playing with a painting mixing app I couldn't get close to the Magenta mixing reds and blues and pick a third color.
  7. I have found that one has to use a primer with Vallejo paints. What was Vallejo color number you like?
  8. That is some good looking Star Wars models Danny.
  9. Nice build. It's hard to tell but I would drill out the laser cannon barrel if it isn't, maybe a little deeper then the nose thrusters.
  10. The arms are starting to come together now. Cheewie Jr needed to lose a little arm weight, so he hit Dremel gym to hit his goal. Now to the next step which is why I start this to being with, messing with apoxie sculpt. I plan to fill in the arm and both elbow gaps with limited hair texture. Then create a cap and hood (kinda of like what Luke used in endor but open in front) to cover up all my sins.
  11. Found sometime to try parts of the idea out. Cousins hanging out. The arms are rotated a little more. Any thoughts, especially on color choices would be most welcomed.
  12. This is Revell snap tite AT-ACT with shapeways detailing bundle from Conceptual Visions. The big add is the front chest intake missing from the kit. I used the following: Xf9 hull red Hairspray X-6 cargo XF-19 Sky grey everything else XF19 plus XF66 light grey panel highlights The green is XF-67 NATO green mixed with XF-57 buff. For dumbass modeler of the year (me), I had issues with the orange chipping with little bit of water. So I set the model in cold/Luke water for 30 sec and it stripped all paint. Doh! New plan, the land is super corrosive, the Empire is trying a new anti corrosive paint to slow down the effect. It's not great 1'-2' type but it is a finished model and met it's goal as a demo project that it was planned as,
  13. More great schemes. While I probably won't get that may walkers, the basic elements of the schemes can be applied to different 'vehicles'.
  14. Well I tried to remove parts of the wrist and bend the paw down to change the pose but that did end well. So my next idea is separate the arm at the elbow and add bent wire for cross arms. A cap/cloak can hide most of the work so I don't need to sculpt the hair, which would probably turn out poorly.
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