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About calistan

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  1. Well, I got the flight deck done, bar the aircraft, and have started on a few little things that have been blocking me from moving onto other little things. ^ Flight deck. Not as bad as I'd feared. The rails look good. There's actually a sort of texture on the brown surface that hasn't shown up very well in the picture (a couple of layers of thin black oil wash). The little trolley things are just resting there, they'll be bucking under the weight of aircraft one day. The PE kit has spare parts to make a couple more, so I might add those as well. ^ I've added all of the railings and a few platforms and things like that where I can, so I can paint them before any superstructure goes on. I'm considering adding cranes and lifeboat hoists as well, but they're so flimsy I suspect they'll only get knocked off. The hull is screwed to its wooden base now, so that should help stop it getting bashed around. It's a gamble... The bits that I snipped off on the unfinished bit of the lower deck - locator pins for a couple of casemate guns - are where the flight deck will go, but it wouldn't slide into place with the upper deck glued down. The instructions dictate putting all the deck pieces down in a precise sequence, which would have precluded me doing the flight deck separately. There's a similar problem for the funnel structure, but nothing that can't be fixed with a pair of nippers. ^ One of the cranes I was thinking of fitting before painting the rest of the deck. The top part is an I-beam made from three slivers of brass about 0.5 cm long. Chances of it surviving when I have to reach around it to glue parts down or peel off masking tape are... slim. ^ Casemate gun parts lined up for painting. Those will go on after the upper hull is completely painted and de-masked, at which point I can almost smell the finishing line (or perhaps that's just Mr Color paint thinner). ^ Finally, obligatory Flyhawk whinge. Look at that! Those little brass bollards, whatever they're called. They're supposed to have two pieces of PE on them as well - a curved bit on the side and a round one on the top, but I'm glad I did a test fit before I went ahead and made up all 50-odd of them. The pins are way too small for the holes in the deck (see the kit part, left) so they just fall through. The only place they do fit is where they mount to a PE base rather than directly to the plastic, but that's only in three or four places anyway.
  2. That's absolutely brilliant! I used to make spaceships and stuff out of plastic bottles when I was a kid, but they were generally just stuck together with plasticene and sellotape. This is what I wished they could have looked like. Thanks for the nostalgia trip!
  3. A little bit more progress. Finally glued the decks to the hull. There are some gaps round the edges that I've started to fill but I don't think it will be too noticeable once the railings are in place. Completed the turrets and gave them a bit of shading and weathering, so I dry fitted them along with the pagoda to see what it will look like. Very busy, I think. This must have been an intimidating ship in its day. Next up I'm going to have a crack at the flight deck. That could potentially be the fiddliest part so far, since the grey PE tracks, turntables and other fittings will need to be painted before attaching to the brown deck. Not to mention the aircraft - maybe I could imagine they've all flown off on a secret mission.
  4. What about some sort of epoxy coating? I think you can get aquarium-safe epoxy resins, and if any of them are thin enough maybe you could coat something like that sub without smothering it. You can get machines for turning painted cups that have been coated in epoxy - they spin slowly for hours until the stuff has set and you get a nice even layer. Not that I have an aquarium, mind, but I'd almost consider getting one if I could fill it with beautifully weathered underwater wrecks.
  5. Wow, well spotted! Mitsuo's PE kit is different from mine, so it might not be just a random Flyhawk thing. I'll have a look to see if I can find anything similar in photos.
  6. That would look awesome in a fish tank. Would the paint job survive under water?
  7. Fantastic, thanks ever so much for looking! That's incredibly helpful. Comparing the Lion Roar instructions, I think those bits on the upper arm are tiny lanterns. Mine has them too. The mystery pieces are comparatively large, and they dwarf all of the delicate little things elsewhere on the mast. Here's a close-up in extreme dust-o-vision. It's a strange thing, I can't see anything similar on the other PE sets. The Pontos instructions show where to place the additional paravanes, which are supplied in the Flyhawk set but not shown in any pictures. I think if I hadn't been so eager to pull the trigger on a snap Ebay sale, and knowing what I know now, I'd have gone for the Pontos in the first place. The Flyhawk girders under the pagoda decks do look nice but the extra thickness from the PE baseplates made it not fit together properly. A lot of filing and filling was required.
  8. I've actually got loads of those Infini 25mm guns left over from the Yukikaze I did last year. I managed to make one of the triple versions, thought it was way too hard (it was the first ship model I'd made, a bit ambitious) and just used the plastic kit guns instead. I don't mind the Flyhawk versions. The only problem was the resin receiver parts were meant to have tiny holes for the barrels but most of them weren't open due to low quality molding, so I had to file the pins off the end of the barrels and glue them flush. The instructions, though... Yikes. Mine has 40-odd tiny pages, with multiple views of the same part that you have to look at and guess which order it should be constructed. A lot of parts aren't mentioned in any of the pics. Have a look at this page below. In the top right there are two parts (G7 and G11) that are drawn on top of a photo with no clue as to where they might actually go. Any ideas?
  9. A little more progress. I removed the masks from the wood / lino deck parts of the pagoda and glued down some sundries. ^ There's still a hose reel to go on there, bottom right, haven't made any of those yet. The wooden deck sticker did a sterling job of protecting my painted deck. I'm not sure if I should seal and weather it now or do the whole completed ship at once for consistency. Incidentally, I'm not at all impressed with the quality of Flyhawk's resin stuff. After having to throw away the big AA guns and buy in the superior versions seen above, I've noticed that their little ammo boxes have numerous little voids and bubbles in them. Can't really see it in this pic because they're mostly at the back, but a few of them are almost unusable. ^ Mast primered and almost completed, except for some railings around the wooden parts. That's another of the wood deck stickers used as a mask, and I don't think I'll be able to remove it if the railings are in place. I knocked this over, right onto the crane, hence the slightly warped dangly bit. ^ Mast from the other side. The hole is so I can model the door swinging open - this PE kit has double-sided doors with frames, so I'll make use of them in a few places. ^ Guns, guns, guns. I like the little greenhouses on top, the Japanese navy really thought of everything.
  10. I sort of gave up on this for a while. My attempt at weathering the hull didn't look as good as I'd hoped, and I think I got modelling fatigue. I just couldn't face getting out all that stuff and spending hours folding tiny bits of brass. Anyway, now that summer is on the way out I'm back on it. I've almost finished the pagoda structure, which was the main reason for choosing this model in the first place. ^ These pictures make it look a bit rougher than it does with the naked eye, but I'm happy enough with it. Needs some bare spots repainting, plus some eventual shading/weathering. Also, there's a sort of cap thing that goes on the penthouse (technical jargon) which I'll do later since it's going to be white. I don't know what's going on with the colour balance on my camera, these were all taken at the same time. It's Tamiya dark sea grey. ^ I managed to knock off a weather vane from the top while I was fitting it all together, which is really annoying. I'll never find it, maybe I'll just stick a spike on there as a replacement. The wooden floors here are masked with the unwanted wooden deck that came with the PE set, and the linoleum parts are masked with tape. I'll soon find out which is easier to peel off - there are struts passing through the floors, so I cut slits in the mask in the hope that it will pull off in one piece. ^ Another interpretation of the same colour. All of those girders are indeed going to be basically invisible from any sort of normal viewing angle.
  11. I’m also a noob at this, one year in and I’m currently on my fourth ship. So not hugely qualified to offer expert advice, but I went straight for the PE from day one, and I have to say it’s nowhere near as difficult as it first looks. You can buy an all-in-one PE set for the model and just pick and choose which parts you want to apply. Some bits such as deck guns are fiddly and you’d need a microscope to see that they look any better than the kit parts when painted, so you could just leave them out. Railings make a very big difference. Ships look a bit odd without them, in my opinion. You can buy generic ship railing sets and cut them to length, if you don’t want to splash out on a full PE set, which would cost a lot more than the base kit did. Also, why not try a ship that comes with the PE as standard? Easier to fit, and no need to shave bits off the plastic kit. I don’t know how common that type of model is, but I made a Hobbyboss SMS Seydlitz (it’s somewhere on this forum) and it’s a bargain, impressive, easy to build and comes with all the PE you’ll need.
  12. Hull primed in white and pre-weathered in splotchy black. I had considered getting rid of those deep grid lines all along the torpedo bulge, but I've grown to like them. They should be good for filling with rust, oil and sea gunk. Also, the one at this link is probably my favourite Nagato I've seen on the internet, and that guy left the grid lines intact. (somebody else's amazing Nagato > http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/bb/ijn/Nagato-350-LKS) Next, a bit more of the funnel. I thought the Flyhawk kit had supplied the wrong length ladders for the upper walkway, so in a previous pic I'd used some generic ladders from elsewhere. Turns out I was just misreading Flyhawk's dreadful instruction book, so the correct ladders (with folding steps) are installed now. So shiny! Also, doesn't it look like a friendly robot holding up all that brass?
  13. Cheers! Yes, this Flyhawk set is very strong on girders. The ship is going to look particularly good from a sort of 3/4 below viewpoint.
  14. I've ground to a halt on the pagoda mast / bridge structure because the amount of tightly packed layers means I'll have to paint it in several stages as I go, but I still can't decide what colour it should be. Until I can get to a model shop to admire their shades of grey, I started on the funnel instead, because this Nagato has an absolute corker of a smokestack. Even without the photo etch it's pretty detailed. I feel sorry for whoever designed all that at Hasegawa, only for me to scrape half of it off with a scalpel. Unfortunately I'll have to stop at this point because there are some other parts that don't look like they can be attached until the funnel is permanently fixed to the ship deck.
  15. Now that would be something! I do keep finding stray strips under the paint, so I suppose if I can’t spot them all it will at least be part masking tape.
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