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calistan

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About calistan

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  1. calistan

    1/350 Nagato (1941) with Flyhawk

    Now that would be something! I do keep finding stray strips under the paint, so I suppose if I can’t spot them all it will at least be part masking tape.
  2. calistan

    1/350 Nagato (1941) with Flyhawk

    Twelve metres of masking tape died to make this deck.
  3. calistan

    1/350 Nagato (1941) with Flyhawk

    Thanks chaps, I think I will give all of those suggestions a try and see what works best for me. That Pontos kit that has the PE version of this part also comes with the exact same AA guns from Veteran Models that I had to buy to replace the Flyhawk ones. Then again, it doesn't have the resin boats or any of the lovely girders underneath the bridge platforms, but I'm wondering how visible they're going to be on the completed model. I suppose there's no single add-on kit that does absolutely everything.
  4. calistan

    1/350 Nagato (1941) with Flyhawk

    I'm not sure if anyone would be able to offer some advice on this, but here's an issue I've just found. The Flyhawk kit includes replacements for all the clear plastic windows in the bridge structure, except for one annoying omission - piece T2, which is made entirely from transparent plastic. The top and bottom would be painted but it's going to look weird next to all the empty PE windows (and does on most of the pics of similar completed models I've seen online). There's a Pontos detail set that does include this part in PE (circled) but it would be foolishness to buy it just for this one piece. What would be the best way of reproducing something like this myself? It's small, about 5x5x4 mm.
  5. calistan

    1/350 Nagato (1941) with Flyhawk

    Two types of CA glue (both Expo brand, if it makes a difference). For the freestanding parts it's a bead of thick grade glue, which has a slow enough setting time to allow a bit of wiggling to get things to stand up straight, and for the parts that slot in or to reinforce a joint, a dab of the thin grade glue. These just arrived from BNA Model World in Australia (very fast delivery, they must have teleported it here). Replacements for the rubbish AA guns in the Flyhawk set. There's absolutely no comparison in terms of quality, made from thicker resin that's not warped and the handholds are molded on rather than being PE pieces a quarter of a mm across. I'll do two with the cover over the guns and two without, as there's some really nice detail under there.
  6. calistan

    1/350 Nagato (1941) with Flyhawk

    Look out for me continuing to add to this thread in 2024. Actually it's not as bad as all that. The bits I'm not looking forward to are painting the workboats/lifeboats and aircraft. If my experience so far is anything to go by (three ships completed, featuring a total of 12 tiny boats and 1 tiny plane) those will be the things I leave until last. I've just done this: ^ These are the undersides for five of the seven-ish layers of the pagoda mast. Putting all those tiny girders together was incredibly satisfying. As long as the guide rails are correctly placed, which was not easy for the circular one, most of the others just slot in place. I've decided to paint it in a much lighter colour than the regulation IJN Kure grey. That stuff is so dark, details like these are going to be hard to see when it's all assembled.
  7. This is Hasegawa's Z24 Nagato kit, to which I'm adding the Flyhawk Gold Medal Edition detail set. I got the detail set a few months ago in a 20% off everything on Ebay sale, which made it seem like good value. The actual kit followed a few weeks ago. I fancied the idea of building one of those pagoda masts, although having seen the number of parts required, it's fiendishly complicated. The instructions for the Flyhawk set are really poor - there are whole sheets of photo etch with no mention of where to put them. Just a lot of blurry photos of a completed model with the odd part pointed out. ^ A whole lot of photo etch, which I've sprayed with Mr Metal Primer, probably at the expense of one or two months off my life expectancy. ^ Loads of resin parts and some brass barrels, mast parts, and dozens of little bollards (generally without any indication of where they're meant to go). ^ This is frankly ridiculous. It's a Type 89 AA gun, which you're meant to put together out of seven tiny resin pieces. But the resin is warped in crucial places, so it doesn't go together very well, and as for those PE handholds... How on earth am I meant to cut out something that size, let alone stick them in place? I had a very brief go at unwarping it all in hot water, but the bits are too small to get a grip of. I've ordered some better looking guns from Ebay, these ones can go in the bin. ^ It's a big ship. I'll be painting the deck rather than using Flyhawk's wood sticker. Perhaps I shouldn't have gone for the Flyhawk set. ^ The build quality of the kit is excellent, as it ought to be for the price. The larger parts more or less snap together without any gaps, and those braces are numbered both on the parts and the hull, so it's impossible to put them in the wrong place. ^ There's also this from Flyhawk. The biggest piece of photo etch I've seen so far, replacing the entire flight deck with something that looks identical. I don't see the point, other than for those pinholes where some rails will go, but at least it might be easier to paint if I can just take it off and assemble it away from the plastic parts.
  8. calistan

    SMS Seydlitz 1/350 Hobbyboss

    Thanks very much for the kind comments. I've learned plenty from building this, not least to clean the spare room before spraying varnish. Here's one more close-up detail that I noticed the Infini detail-up set fixes - this ladder wouldn't actually function with the torpedo net rail in place. Oh well. I'm not sure if the cables for the netting should have been wrapped round those double winch things either, but they looked like they needed something on them so I hooked them up at both ends of the ship. I've moved straight on to the Nagato now, having somewhat spoiled my small Trumpeter HMS Hood model by putting a wooden deck on it. The thickness of the sticker forced most of the upper parts out of alignment. I think painting the decks is the way forward for me. If anyone wants a wooden deck for the Z24 Nagato, let me know.
  9. calistan

    SMS Seydlitz 1/350 Hobbyboss

    I think I've finished this now. I kind of ran out of steam when it got down to the really fiddly, annoying little tasks like threading up all those eyelets and attaching the rigging. I found there were certain tiny spots where CA glue just didn't want to stick and would not dry properly, so I gave up on it for weeks at a time. Anyway, it's all done. ^ Torpedo net is made from muslin cloth soaked in watered-down PVA glue, wrapped up tight and painted dark grey. The thread is for tying flies for fishing. A lot of eyelets had got narrowed from paint and varnish, but dipping the end of the thread in CA glue helped it poke through without fraying. ^ Damn that low waterline and Hobbyboss's painting instructions. Still, I don't really mind, most people won't know the difference. ^ One of the things I really liked about this kit is that the sides of the hull are just a blank canvas. No detailing whatsoever, so I tried to make it as busy as I could. ^ Thanks to Jase for the tip about greening up the propeller. I used phthalo green, which I didn't even know was a word, much less a colour. There was a yellow decal to go over the photo etch nameplate at the back, but after trying it I thought it looked really bad so I took it off and just dirtied up the plate to make the letters stand out. ^ I had some photo etch oars left over from my Yukikaze kit, so I stuck those on the lifeboats to make up for not being able to make a harness for them out of stretched sprue. I really tried but it kept breaking. Incidentally, I was really impressed with the Galeria matt coat here - it's way better than the Tamiya flat stuff I'd previously used. ^ There's the rigging that almost broke me. It's Infini 40 denier black lycra, which was left over from my Yukikaze. In future I'll use the thicker white version, because it's a whole lot of effort to attach but you basically can't see it unless you hold it up to the light. I notice Infini has just released a huge detail-up set for this, which is a bit annoying since I've finished it. Still, I probably wouldn't have bought it at the price they're asking - 165 quid! That takes the kit from all-in-one bargain to massively overpriced, in my opinion, and it looks like half of the photo etch they provide just duplicates the very good stuff you get with the kit. Next up I've got a 1/700 Hood, which I'll use to see if I can get along with stick-on wooden decks, and then a massive 1/350 Nagato with a ton of add-on bits.
  10. calistan

    SMS Seydlitz 1/350 Hobbyboss

    Thanks for the tip! Would that be green mixed in with the base colour or as an extra layer like the rust?
  11. calistan

    SMS Seydlitz 1/350 Hobbyboss

    I've varnished and started weathering / ruining the paintwork. Varnished with Alclad light sheen, then I used a mixture of burnt sienna and burnt umber oil paints for rust and AK Interactive's ready mixed salt streaks. I made the mistake of using Mr Color's levelling thinner to drag some of these streaks down the hull, and discovered that it eats straight through to the primer. Switched to turpentine and it was all good, this does look better in real life than via my phone camera (that decal at the front is actually bright red and white). Above, a turret dry fitted to the deck, which now has anchor chains and dirty winches. In the background on the left, I managed to knock off one of those incredibly fragile PE walkways. I won't reattach it until the last minute. I've also knocked the masts around quite a lot - luckily the PE ladders on them mean they're easy enough to straighten out, but I'd better finish this soon because it's not going to survive much longer (I also work at this desk). ^ I'm not 100% sure what to do with propellers. This is a random mixture of Tamiya gold paint, hull red and flat brown, with two shades of powdered rust from Tamiya weathering compacts. Once I've tidied and toned down the salt and rust a little bit, I'm going to spray it with a matt finish (Windsor and Newton Galeria, which I saw recommended somewhere) and attach the final parts.
  12. calistan

    SMS Seydlitz 1/350 Hobbyboss

    This is where I'm at right now. Ship's boats done, railings all done. There was supposed to be a PE ladder up to the funnel in this pic but I had to sacrifice it to replace some other ladders I manage to break elsewhere. Maybe I'll find a replacement somewhere. I found a couple more errors in the kit. The railing in the pic comes as one piece with gaps for bending it, which is super easy, but the gaps make the whole thing a bit too long for the deck edges. I had to snap the pieces off to compress it so it would fit. Those little PE cranes are for holding a couple more boats but the lower wire was originally attached right at the bottom, so it bumped up against the railing. I cut it, shortened it and reattached it a bit further up. Does nobody at the manufacturer actually test these things? Stuff left to do: figure out how to attach the lifeboats to the cranes, varnish, turret decals, weathering, torpedo net, a large amount of thread.
  13. calistan

    SMS Seydlitz 1/350 Hobbyboss

    ^ Platform with searchlights and guns. I really like that this ship is quite colourful, it stands out much more than my other all-grey ones. ^ Here it is fitted to the deck. There are no photo etch ladders provided for the back, which is a shame. The kit hose reels are a bit anaemic, so I wrapped them in wire to bulk them up. ^ The wires attached to that gantry are the thinnest bits of photo etch I've seen so far. Just touching them is enough to warp them, so they were a real pain to get fitted. When you look at it this close the paintwork seems quite rough but it's acceptable to me with the naked eye. ^ The kit has some very nice anchor chain (not pictured). Better than the one in my Yukikaze kit, since the links are elongated and look less like a repurposed necklace. They're supposed to wrap around those wheels and pass under the curved guard thing, but that was originally a solid piece. So I could either cut the chain in half, which would probably look bad, or attempt to cut holes in this piece, which I did. Like most of the plastic here, it's flimsy and brittle, and there are some struts on the back that limit the places you can cut. This and the poorly fitting deck are the worst things about this kit.
  14. calistan

    SMS Seydlitz 1/350 Hobbyboss

    A bit further on: ^ These are the torpedo net booms, made from size 8 harpsichord wire and silver wire. The hull is painted with a mix of Tamiya hull red (which, as I found on my Yukikaze model, is actually a horrible shade of brown), normal red and yellow. ^ The photo etch wheelhouse. There are actually instruments in here, including a pedestal with a tiny photo etch wheel. But there is basically no circumstance where you'd be able to see this without using the world's smallest endoscope, so I could have left it out. You can see one of the non-etch ladders up the side - they'd have been better off providing a ladder for this spot rather than that pointless wheel. ^ Various deck parts dry fitted. The masts are reinforced with a long ladder but the arms at the top are incredibly flimsy. This one I reinforced with a piece of leftover Yukikaze etch (one of the braces for the linoleum deck). On the other mast, one was broken when it arrived and the other broke as soon as I tried cutting it off the sprue, so I had to make them out of wire.
  15. calistan

    SMS Seydlitz 1/350 Hobbyboss

    Fast forward a couple of weeks: ^The deck parts masked and dry fitted for painting the deck details. As it turned out, I didn't really need to mask the whole deck. The hull is primed in white, and you can see the shelf for the torpedo net. This is made of a thicker grade of ready-cut plastic stick that I found at a model shop. About the fit of the deck - I could tell from the dry-fit that it wasn't going to be good. There were huge voids along the main seam in the hull, and on top some gaps of about 1mm, which is very noticeable. The kit isn't Tamiya quality (that's all I have to compare it to) but it's great value in terms of what else you get. ^ Photo etch railings, steps and ladders come as standard. There are a few places where there are just some moulded lines instead of a ladder, but in general it's a very complete kit. Neither of my Tamiya ones had any of this. ^ Forward funnel structure. It was only after priming that I noticed I'd made a mess of a couple of the rails around the funnel (the gaps had become clogged with glue) so further pictures of this will be taken from a distance. ^ Super fine etch, very fiddly. I made this with the cranes pointing out over the sides of the ship, then decided they'd just get broken too easily so I cut them off and moved them so they're over the deck.
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