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calistan

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  1. I used their AA guns and searchlights on my Nagato, they were super high quality. Expensive, but a big step up from the Flyhawk add-on parts I also had. There are some pictures here, there might be close-ups in the work in progress thread if you want to see how detailed they are. I would definitely recommend them.
  2. Minor update: unmasked the hull, repaired some spot damage, added a clearcoat for decals and weathering, and managed to knock off a couple of bits of PE (later located in the carpet). ^ The lower rear deck is now populated. I had to remove the base for the column in the bottom centre because I couldn't get it to fit. All of this is only visible in silhouette once the upper deck is attached, so this is the last time it will be seen. The six columns originally had little nipples on top that were meant to match up with holes in the upper deck, but that would have meant that if the alignment was off even slightly (which it is on some of them) then the upper deck wouldn't fit. ^ The kit comes with really good decals by Cartograf. Looks like there's still a bit of an edge visible on the depth markings, so I'll try softening it up some more before sealing it. I've used some 'fouling green' to dirty up the hard line between the orange and the hull red.
  3. Finally started painting the hull, and it went better than I expected. There are four colours on this part and a lot of photo etch detail already in place, plus most of the surfaces to be masked are large, flat areas of metal, and hence likely to peel. ^ The only major part where some paint got under the masking tape (I haven't unmasked the submerged part of the hull yet). This orange paint is incredibly thin, like water. ^ The only part where it peeled. Tamiya acrylic over Mig acrylic primer over Gunze metal primer. I'm lucky it was only this small spot but it's still annoying, since I'm now going to have to mask the orange to fix this, and I'd deliberately left that until last because I thought it would be the most likely to come unstuck. ^ The wooden deck can finally come out for some air after many months under cover. ^ I masked the rollers on these winches and then dirtied them up with Tamiya gun metal powder so they weren't quite so shiny and brassy. These will both be sandwiched under the helicopter deck and pretty hard to see, but there are five similar things on the top deck which I think I'll paint the same way.
  4. Good idea, I think I might give that a try. I don't think it's meant to be done like that, since the dome fits flush to the seat part, so any clear plastic moulded over it wouldn't join neatly. Worth a go though, thanks. The other examples of this that I've seen online all have the canopy painted solid grey or blue, which doesn't look very convincing.
  5. I'm gradually filling little boxes of semi-completed parts that will have to be added to the model at the last minute, and trying to improve my painting technique. I've only done big grey warships before, never anything as colourful as this. ^ The funnel assembly. When I've tried to apply Tamiya acrylics with a brush, it looks like I've put it on with a trowel. Humbrol enamels, though - smooth as silk. Who knew? Everyone but me, probably. It's only the red bit inside the vent pipes anyway, the rest is Tamiya / Gunze airbrushed. ^ A bit of a flaw in the model here. There's a slot for the square part of the funnel but nothing for the protruding pegs from the other bits. This is definitely how it's meant to be made, so I assume they just forgot to consider how it might go together. I just drilled some suitable holes for it. ^ More deck parts. These are mostly for the front. I'm going to mask around the barrels of the rollers on those winches, so they can keep a shiny metal look. Wrong kind of metal, I know, but it might look better than if I tried to paint them. ^ The beginnings of the second type of helicopter. Oddly, there are moulded seats inside the cockpit but the canopy is opaque. The canopy is probably going to look very un-glasslike and more than a bit rubbish when it's painted, so I think I'm going to model it covered up with some sort of protective canvas. Maybe a bit of thin foil would work. I can't see how the tail rotor assembly is meant to go on. It's supposed to slot together, but the end of the tail girder part is much too tall to fit. There are a couple of spares in the kit, and I tried one of them with exactly the same result. I might just have to cut it to get it to fit.
  6. A few more pics, six months on. Slow is better than no progress at all... ^ Watchtower and radar that goes on the top. Keeping them separate for now because the radar will be a different colour. ^ These parts are for the level beneath the helicopter deck, so they will only be visible behind railings, through a slot about 1cm tall. ^ The bridge, painted. It also has a detailed ceiling, not shown, so it's completely enclosed. Once it's formed into a box it slots into the top of the ship, and two long pieces of PE wrap around the opening. The inner piece has window frames, which are meant to be done in dark brown or black, and the outer piece should have the white paint, leaving the frames showing through cleanly. How to prevent paint going through the windows and ruining the bridge interior - on many an evening that's a problem that has led me to put this back on the shelf and do something else. ^ I think I've figured it out. This is the bridge in place. Before I sealed it up I ran some thin strips of tape around the inside, covering the window openings. I left the ends dangling out of the side doors, and the idea is that it will all stay in place until the ship is fully painted. Then I'll pull on the ends to drag the tape out of there, hopefully without tearing off the bridge instruments while I'm doing it. The piece of PE that's on there now will be painted dark for the window frames. The outer piece, which is resting on top, will have to be painted separately and glued on afterwards. ^ Bonus pic. I found this ship in Microsoft Flight Simulator! Mine will not have trees growing out of it.
  7. So much detail in something so tiny. Excellent way to present it too.
  8. That’s fantastic! Beautiful paint job, and the detail in the cockpit is so good.
  9. I saw a video about this a while back, I think it was actually an official Infini one, but I can’t find it anywhere now. It’s easy enough to describe (I hope) and pretty foolproof. Basically, with the model mounted on its stand, unwind a suitable length of thread and tape down the end closest to the spool - tape it to the stand, to the side of the ship, wherever is convenient. Stretch the free end of the thread to its furthest attachment point, add a drop of thin CA and keep it under gentle tension until it holds. Untape the thread, snip off as much as you need, stretch it to the second attachment point and repeat. The key is to keep some tension on the thread while the glue sets. Find somewhere to attach it and carefully pull the thread around it. The excess can easily be removed by pulling it with tweezers and just touching it with a fresh scalpel blade. Don’t add too much tension to the second point or you might end up warping a mast. You want just enough to keep the rigging straight. Personal preference, of course, but I’d recommend a heavier thread than 70 denier. I used that before and it’s close to invisible, which is annoying when you’ve spent so long doing it. The model below, I used 110 denier thread. It’s much easier to work with and can easily be seen on a shelf (maybe that’s just my eyes though).
  10. Thanks Jamie, good call on trimming from the back of the fuselage. I wasn't looking there, I was mainly thinking of somehow carving out the top of the windscreen to accommodate the rounded protrusion. Cutting from the back does indeed make the panel lines match up, and after that I needed to remove the rounded part (it's surely a mistake), take off the lug from the fuselage, and trim just a bit from the middle of the wing so it sits flat. A bit of filler and I think it's good to go. I've also been chipping away at the central windscreen pillar, as for some reason it was wider than the glass panes either side.
  11. First update in a while. I haven't had much modelling time or inspiration in the last couple of months, but I'm back on it now. Some of these pics were the last ones I took before the world went crazy. I'm trying to remember what I was meant to do next. ^ This is one of the cranes. I found that CA glue didn't give enough structural support while working on other bits, so I soldered it instead - which naturally caused all the small CA parts to drop off. The left side is black because it pinged off the tweezers and into a pot of thick CA while I was trying to stick it, so I had to burn the glue off. Other parts I did in the wrong order, and had to unstick them by freezing them for a while (very effective). ^ This is as it is now, which is as it was two months ago. Pretty much finished. I tested it plenty of times to make sure my improvised jig / piece of plastic matched up with the holes in the deck. ^ I thought making the small fiddly bits first would be a good way to get back into things, so I started on the helicopter. It's super detailed, there's even photo etch on the bottom. ^ The finished helicopter. The window frames are a bit rough but I'm happy enough at this scale, it looks fine with the naked eye. The colour is from Mr Paint, which is a brand I hadn't used before. Very nice to use, incredibly thin (but impossible to use a brush for touching up details) and nicer in real life than in this picture. I'm using the same colour for the ship hull. ^ Onto the plane next, and this is the first negative point I have about this kit. It doesn't fit at all! There's something very wrong here. ^ The body and wings in the instructions are different - in the kit there's a bit that stick out at the front centre of the wings, a pip at the top of the windows, and a very thick pillar between the front windows. ^ Here's another view. It's not right at all, there's some major surgery required to get it to fit. Not what I was expecting. I can't see similar problems on the few other examples of this I've found on the internet, so I don't know if maybe I'm reading the instructions wrong or I've just got a duff one.
  12. Did that seriously start out as a plastic kit?!? It’s phenomenal!
  13. How about taping down the bottom part, then melting the solder so you can push the legs back to 90 degrees. Tape the legs at the correct angle if necessary, then fill the gap at the joint with a little extra solder. edit: which is more or less what beefy said above, which I did not read.
  14. Thanks very much! I used a thicker grade of rigging thread (110 denier) than on previous models, and it makes a big difference. Nicer to work with, very easy to cut at the attachment point without leaving stray bits of elastic, and better visibility on the finished model.
  15. Looking good. Out of curiosity, what’s the purpose of blacking the drilled portholes?
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