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Scargsy

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Everything posted by Scargsy

  1. Interesting kit - I've seen these advertised but never ventured near one but I'm very curious, especially given the cover art: does it come with old school vinyl music included?
  2. Hi, After seeing the other builds and somewhere someone mentioned the glove vanes weren't actually used after a while and ended up being welded shut, I can't confirm that research but decided against opening them up/fitting on mine. For the wings some other builds did clip them and fit after painting but I attached mine first - yes you need to move them to get best coverage - was a bit annoying as the gearing kept slipping a little for me but after some manipulation you can get them aligned again. For paint coverage I managed fine with the airbrush with them fully out/wide, except for some small bits right at near the hinge, but luckily the paint and primer I use is pretty quick drying - so I did the bits under the wings first, then by the time I'd done the rest I could move them in without it sticking and get the outside hinge bits. I'm not sure how you're planning on painting it (brush, airbrush, rattle can) but one thing that might be possible is to paint the dark grey segments first before assembling, place some masking over them then continue building, etc. and as a final step remove that masking. Also I found attaching the top, bottom and wings was one of those jobs you need more than two hands for and I managed to get some glue on the wings - they slide into slots on the top part, so if I did it again I'd maybe lay the top piece upside down on its back, with the wings slid in, then attach the lower part onto it. I'm not sure if that makes much sense but do plenty of test dry fitting before you attempt it with glue!
  3. Links for the various instructions (more for my reference): Academy: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/7/0/231670-29-instructions.pdf Revell boxing: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/6/8/7/1119687-27-instructions.pdf Eduard PE: https://www.eduard.com/out/media/72242.pdf
  4. So I'd been planning to start this today but only managed to get some work done on the Matchbox GB Humber as I needed to do some DIY painting the living room (happy wife, happy life). I did however unbox it and got some sprue shots... The sprues are contained in 3 poly bags (2 sprues per bag) - this is the largest and only just fits in the box at a diagonal angle (i.e. not fully flat) so I hope it hasn't warped, I chopped off the sub-sprue on the left before putting it back into the box. This was bagged with the clear parts (in a separate bag). Here's the clear parts and two more sprues (I like to keep the clear parts bagged until I need them to stop me damaging them) but they seem fairly good (not amazing but will more than do)... The final bag contained the frankly massive wing parts, note this is an A3 cutting mat for scale... Parts seem nicely moulded with lots of detail on them, interior OOB maybe a little lacklustre. Here's a shot of the kit decals and instructions, as mentioned the instructions could be better - just 6 steps (by throwing lots of things in a single step), in a black and white folded paper pamphlet... Here's all the aftermarket bits... I managed to dig out some WWII pilot figures, I'll need to see if they will fit. Thanks for the heads up guys on it tail sitting, etc. I'm planning on doing it wheels up, as I like to for most of my builds - the instructions do have some concessions towards this although don't show any info for that option with the front wheel well. I'm not sure if I'll do the wing tip floats up or down yet.
  5. So it's a bit further along - I decided to brush paint it with some Vallejo air paint - it's thin but three coats and it's pretty much good to go. I tried to modulate the colours a little (mainly British Light Stone, but modulated with lighter tones for the top and darker ones for the bottom). The puddle I put some clear 'still' water in, though the paint on the edges was a little too wet and I seem to have left some bubbles! I may add a second layer. In the end I placed the kit decals on - since I'm just doing a straight OOB build. I think I can see where Revell got the number mix-up from for the vehicle, I think they were basing it on the following picture on WW2 DB... https://ww2db.com/image.php?image_id=8380 It's a bit hard to see the exact number there, if only they had bothered to do a few minutes extra research and follow it to the original source (mentioned on previous one) they would have got to the original image in the Imperial War Museum collection... https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205198282 Seems the number should be F26991, not F28901 though the vehicle appears to be in the UK judging by the trees in the background - although in a light colour? Anyhow I'm not going for full historical accuracy in this build and I can barely read the number at this scale... So maybe a bit of light weathering, maybe try and get the earth tones better on the diorama base and it's done. Fun little build.
  6. Scargsy

    hi mil 24

    Be sure to check out the MiG-21 single type group build later in the year, sounds like it could be of interest?
  7. Scargsy

    Saying hi

    Hi Ekire, If you're interested in armour then there's both a M3/M4 and also armoured cars / half tracks group build scheduled for later in the year, plus probably a heap of other ones you could do an armour build in (Matchbox, Big and British, Falklands, Japanese, Revell Classics, Canadian, Prototypes). Current 2022 calendar here: Word of warning on the group builds - they can be addictive, I was planning on weaning myself off them somewhat this year but it's not going to plan!!!
  8. Hi @Freester pity you only just missed the F14 group build, have a look over here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/743-f-14-tomcat-stgb/ A few of us built this exact kit, so feel free to look over our build logs for hints and tips, also the group build as a whole for info, etc. I went with the low-vis scheme - one thing that caught me out is the colour callout names/colours seem wrong - the overall colour - the Mr Color number is correct but the English text is not the same name, also the darker area (to show the top where the wings will fold over) should be I think Dark Gull Grey or similar, not Metallic Red as they suggest!
  9. I'd contact Revell directly, hopefully if you send them a photo they'll see it's a manufacturing error and send you a free replacement. I've never had to contact Revell but when I contacted Heller over some dodgy decals they sent me a replacement set.
  10. Sword 1/72 EE Lightning Originally started in the Interceptors GB, build thread here and KUTA thread here.
  11. So I'm calling the the Lightning finished. I gave it a few thin coats of thinned Microscale satin, mixed with their flat varnish. Not the greatest kit and certainly not the best build but it's now finished. I don't think the NMF came out very well (looks quite grainy), due to the Alclad - I didn't put a gloss black underneath it and I think the initial clear I put to protect the (very) fragile coat was their lacquer based one. It reacted somewhat with the metallic coat, next time I guess I'll try something like a water based acrylic clear on it. Still hopefully next time I can do a better job, live and learn. I also noticed I'd missed off the underside stabilizer fin from the rear belly - oh well.
  12. This is my entry for the GB: Maybe an odd choice but the "PB" is Patrol Bomber, and the 'Black Cat' variants used in the Pacific, especially during the Guadalcanal Campaign were used to great effect in harassing Japanese naval and land targets at night. The A variant (as opposed to the PBY-5) is the amphibious version with landing gear. Looking on Scalemates the moulds date back to 1993 and have also been released by Revell and Wolfpack over the years. The Academy instructions don't seem the clearest so I maybe referring to the Revell ones online as I go along! Sprue shots, etc. once we get underway - I've peeked in the box and there's a large amount of black plastic (not sure how well I'll be able to directly spray black on black, might need an intermediate colour primer). Other than the base kit, I have some Eduard Masks (will be useful for the gunner pods), PE and Kits-world aftermarket decals (some interesting nose art and the stars and bars are in grey, rather than the kit supplied white ones). I may fish around in my parts and see if I can find some crew figures too.
  13. Tempting - built plenty of Matchbox kits as a young un, I seem to remember you could even pick them up in the newsagents in the village where I lived - but I'm planning on entering about 9 other GBs this year (possibly 10 if I decide to do a MiG) and at least 2 of those I have plans for multiple builds, worried I'm going to burn myself out! OK so onwards... The rest of the parts built up very quickly and easily - though maybe with the exception of trying to manipulate the tiny lights, though I got them on without losing them with a bit of help from some blutac to help hold/manipulate them. With that - it was time to get everything ready for some primer, there was a fair amount of seam line round the wheels and over the top of the commander figure. I decided to use some Mr Surfacer, mixed approx 50:50 with self-levelling thinner. This is my go-to primer these days, an absolute pleasure to use and very forgiving for me hosing it on, I have multiple colours but decided I'd go for their mahogany as a base colour, should work well for mud/shadow colour later... Luckily the hole for the turret is just the right size to stick one of the crocodile clip poles in (I have one where the clip has fallen off), however it did fall off mid painting and the the hull hit the dusty floor of the garage, but luckily I think I got away without damage / fluff / spiders getting embroiled! I think I'm going to go with a North Africa based vehicle for the colour scheme @PeterB can you help advise if the decals are in anyway useable - e.g. I know 'F' denotes an armoured car, just wondering if the number can be butchered around to make a realistic number or any others are useable? I do have some decal paper somewhere so could print something off (white is obviously a problem in a standard inkjet, but I could possibly put a tiny white decal underneath) and I'm not sure if the resolution is going to be fine enough at this scale, but I can try!
  14. So I managed to get a bit of bench time and move the Lightning along. First job was tackling my ugly previous attempt at hand painting the yellow tip of the vertical stabiliser - I'd used Tamiya flat yellow over black, that doesn't cover well so it had gone on incredibly lumpy (I guess as I tried to get coverage). A little bit of their X20a (isopropyl alcohol based thinners) on a cotton wool bud and it was wiping away nicely - the black was Alclad primer (and had been overshot with their clear) which I think is possibly enamel based but is certainly in some lacquer type thinners - given that was a lot tougher the black stayed put (phew). However this time I was planning on airbrushing to get a smoother coat, this presented a problem given I've already applied decals! So time to improvise... Firstly I masked just around the area I needed with some thin tape, then to ensure I didn't pull the letter identification decals I cut some small squares of paper big enough to cover them, then firstly placed these in the centre of some masking tape before placing the tape over the decal (so no sticky part is touching the decal but they were covered. Then I found a spare clear plastic bag, cut a hole in for the tail and put the whole aircraft inside - I really don't trust myself not to either overspray or get some wet paint finger marks on the model! I then sprayed up the tip - firstly with a thin coat of Mr Surfacer White primer, then a few light coats of Tamiya yellow, both thinned with Self Levelling Thinner. The next thing to tackle was fitting the undercarriage which proved a rather frustrating task! Firstly the front wheel, I seem to have somehow managed to bend to the side, relative to the leg (maybe when I assembled it, or it's been bent to the side since assembly/paint). Then the rear legs - I'd attached the doors to the legs first, before painting ages ago, including the smaller doors at the tops of the legs. However when it came time to fit them - the legs aren't long enough to fit into the small mounting points, either an issue with the kit or my assembly, to that end they are effectively now resting on the smaller top doors (however these seem quite thick at the rear side and inset, so hopefully doesn't look too much like they're flush. The rear legs have an additional two hydraulic ram parts per side - so I added those, hopefully they will add some stability! With the legs fitted and the glue set I turned her over and behold - my nose weights work (only just - I seem to remember placing some steel ball bearings in it), however - erk... With all the messing around with it upside down I'd not noticed there was a bit of masking tape on the paint stand and it's take off a bit of the black edge marking! The undercarriage doors were also a pain to fit - whilst they have small 'tabs' on the doors, there's no related mounting points to mate into. At one point I thought I'd lost one of the smaller front wheel doors but investigating a light rattling sound in the box it seems it had escaped the poly bag I'd placed it in for safe keeping, lucky save there. There were some of the line decals left on the sheet - so I cut a few short lengths and used them to repair the new gap and also lengthen the rear edge markings back to the body, then added the vertical stabiliser tip decals on each side. At this point I'd have enough of decaling this kit, (I also noticed one of the roundels under the wing had a rip) it's not great but at least it's got the main parts on now - so I gave it a coat of clear, though it's quite lumpy (not very smooth) - the previous one wasn't super smooth either. So I'm going to leave it to dry and then decide what to do with it later - a wash or maybe just some satin/flat clear to hide the bumpiness of the gloss clearcoat. I'm beginning to remember why this build got left on the shelf with all these trials but at least it's almost there now.
  15. Yep - radar detection definitely qualify and a very interesting subject/model!
  16. Any observation unit (visual, sonar, electronic) I guess qualifies, if your primary combat role is that of detecting or observing enemy units rather than engagement.
  17. Hi @Black Knight and @Bertie Psmith not sure it that was a yes from you guys? Let me know if you'd like to be on the list. Cheers.
  18. Rotary wing aircraft are welcome too. Yes I guess all patrol type craft are eligible (land, sea, air). Anything attached to or used as a scouting unit would qualify by definition.
  19. So it's time for me to try and clear up a couple of kits that didn't quite get finished in previous GBs. Neither need a massive amount of work so thought I'd place them in the same thread. Firstly a Sword 1/72 scale EE Lightning, from the 2020/2021 Interceptors GB previous build thread here. I got bogged down and disheartened by the decals, especially after finding I'd placed the roundels in the wrong place for the wing walkway demarcation lines. Looking a little wet there as I rinsed off the shelf dust! It needs that tail tip paint fixing, possibly some more decals adding, the undercarriage fitting, clearcoat and some weather and I should be able to call it done. The second kit needing some finalisation is a Tamiya 1/35 SAS Jeep kit, from the Less than a Tenner GB, build log here. All that stowage really ground me down - especially having to clean up loads of nasty seam lines on every piece. Again it shouldn't take too long to actually get done but I'm still far from finding the enthusiasm for this one, other than actually getting a bit of peace of mind for finishing it!
  20. So here are the usual bits shots... Side opening box, colour instruction booklet, 2 sprues in a poly bag and a tiny sheet of decals (a welcome relief after all the stencils and complex rally decals I've been doing of late). The sprues are oddly labelled B and C (I wonder what A was?), pretty chunky moulding for the scale but I guess that's expected with the age of the kit. A lot of the parts have the numbers directly moulded into them and I guess where the old Matchbox label info was (on the interior of the hull) appears to have been obscured by Revell. So I couldn't help myself and decided to make a start... Instruction 1 down and I must say the fit isn't too bad (helped I guess by these days having Tamiya extra-thin, meaning I can hold the parts together for 30 seconds or so whilst the glue sets and get a tight fit). At this point I went off script, jump a few steps ahead and decided to fit the top plate to the hull... I'd initially tried to get the rotating part connected underneath using the B4 part but the Tamiya glue wicks up and was gluing everything, so I decided to separate the parts - I will keep the turret separate for painting and glue it into position once finished, that will probably make painting easier anyhow.
  21. Toyota Celica GT-Four 1995 Swedish Rally Marcus Grönholm & Voitto Silander Tamiya 1/24 Kit, with Studio27 aftermarket decals and aftermarket snow tyres. Gravel wheels, suspension and mudflaps from the kit supplied extras. Build log here
  22. In the end I didn't fit the light pods, I could have done with some decals on the wheels and I'm not overly happy with how my lights turned out, but it's done! Tyres also have some annoying mould lines down the centre - I added a bit of texture with some filed down bits of white styrene and some white weathering powder. Bonus shot with the Galant VR-4 rally car from the last Nordic GB...
  23. So it looks like I made it to the finish line! The seats were inserted and given a brush coat of thinned Vallejo satin varnish to seal the decals. The body was given a coat of Mr Top Coat Gloss from a rattle can, still the best gloss finish I seem to be able to get... The wheels were given a couple of coats of Tamiya X2 white gloss but it just didn't seem to want to give good coverage. All the smaller interior parts (handbrake, gear mechanism, etc.) had been inserted and so I added the roll cage parts and spare wheel - ready for the seal up... The body was just too shiny and toy like to my eye, so I hoped to dull it back a little, unfortunately I didn't have any flat-clear rattle cans on hand so just brushed it with some thinned Vallejo satin clear. Annoyingly even after a couple of hours it still seemed a little tacky when handling it, but time was pressing so I did my best to not get fingermarks in it whilst carrying on. The front grill mesh was inserted and the insert for the bonnet vent. I attached the glass work using Microscale Krystal Klear and also some Tamiya extra thin - where I thought I could get away with it near the non-visible parts in case if fogged. Then as test fitting the interior to the exterior it clicked into place without glue so I figured I'd leave it - no point damaging it now! I decided I'd fit the kit supplied mud-flaps, these are not mentioned in the instructions for the Monte-Carlo version but a look on Scalemates and I found the Safari version instructions to see which ones went where and looking at the photo of the real car it seemed to have red ones at the rear and black ones on the front. These were given a couple of coats of Tamiya flat-red, it didn't really want to coat well (especially over the black primer), I gave them a final brush coating of it too but the less than smooth covering I wasn't too concerned with as it gives them a bit of a dirt like patina. The mudflaps, wheels, mirrors and wipers were all added and I left it overnight to let the clear PVA completely dry behind the light lenses before the final photos...
  24. Yes armoured cars welcome, as well as not so armoured things e.g. for current UK forces - Land Rover WMIK, Jackal and Coyote TSV, all of which have weapons but pretty limited protection for the crew. Guess I'm going to need to start a list on this thread!
  25. Sure I should have added those too, I'll update the description - anything in particular? I guess most special forces troops SAS, SBS, SEALs would qualify too.
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