BlueNosers352nd
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Posts posted by BlueNosers352nd
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Despite the H&S Airbrush woes..........I got some color on the Stearman!
Progress continues on the PT-17 Stearman. by Jim Fox, on Flickr
Progress continues on the PT-17 Stearman. by Jim Fox, on Flickr
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8 hours ago, bmwh548 said:
It changes the profile ever so slightly, but it's proven effective. I've done it several times and the managed not to bend the needle.
I would gladly swap the needle nozzle combo if someone would bother importing the new ones, but at the moment all resellers in my country have the older models only.
Did some file and needle work. Improvement enough to get me through some painting so I can continue on. Random single spits are seldom now, but still there. I still get the initial spit but that is only if I do a big pull back for paint flow. Then the following spray spits. So for now I just spray away to get the spatter gone and continue. Doing a slight pull back for paint seems to avoid the big splatter and random spits (mostly). Also the filing and polishing did get rid of the spraying of paint when the trigger is fully forward. Getting closer. After spraying and did some more polishing and will test it out tomorrow.
1 hour ago, little-cars said:They developed the new needles after they were taken over last year. I've seen nothing about releasing a new nozzle, but some have been coming through with different markings on them, so I suspect one will be announced soon.
I ordered a new needle and nozzle today from SprayGunner and they said they were version 2 but that was merely to add markings so it was easier to tell between different needles and nozzles. So probably early next week I'll see what the new .4mm set does.
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How about masking and painting the checkered cowl? I have an article somewhere about how to do that...........think mine is paper form so I'll have to scan it. It's how I did my 1/48 Checkered nosed P-47.
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1 hour ago, bmwh548 said:
I have exactly the same issue you described on my Ultra. Polishing the needle when it starts behaving this way gets rid of it. Grab some nail files and some polishing compound and go for it. It takes me about 5 minutes - I put the needle in a cordless drill and spin it on a decent speed and pull it against the nail file; once I'm happy the "marks" are gone from the needle tip I polish it. Works fine afterwards.
Having not done that, I can only imagine what happens. I'm surprised that doesn't alter the profile at all. Granted it's just nail files and not something more aggressive. I'm concerned with the nozzle and it doesn't look 100% round. I'll inspect again tonight when I get home.
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Ok....tore down the whole unit, cleaned it all out. The .4 definitely has some issues. I don't any high magnification devices other than an optical visor...........and my prescription glasses are little behind. So seeing a crack or something is impossible. What caught me was why doing a test run after cleaning with the .4.....even with the trigger completely forward and only pressing for air I get a fine paint out of it. Same with thinner, it just flows out with only the trigger pressed for air. Again, with only the visor and my behind the times glasses I think the end of the nozzle isn't perfectly round. Whether that is a tear or just out of round. So at minimum I probably should order a new nozzle for the .4 After all the cleaning, I did minimize the while spraying single bit splatter to only a couple. But the pre splatter is there still.
I put the .2 in and only did thinner to see if anything came out with just air pressed and nothing came out. I did find some gun in the nozzle on the .2. I'm thinking it was some mission model paint. First time ever using that, so I guess I didn't clean it enough. I'm use to Mr Color and Tamiya paints. So maybe the .2 is ok.
Again, like bmwh548 mentioned above....old needles and nozzles were replaced because of issues. So maybe that's the deal with the .4.
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Would you all stop these GBs? I'll see how a couple other GBs go, but I might be in. Have one in the stash.
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The initial spitting happens after you spray, then go back to spray just by pressing down on the trigger for AIR ONLY. Like their was some paint left at the tip. On any airbrush I've ever used their was always some dried paint on the inside of the needle cap, like from air swirling around, but never had this spatter before. After work I'll have to go soak the nozzle and see what I can do, plus look at it under magnification.
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6 hours ago, bmwh548 said:
Cracked nozzle or the needle not seating properly against the nozzle. Paint slips through (between them or through the nozzle crack), gathers on the nozzle cover and then it spits out. I've had similar issues with my Ultra, the needle got some wear on the tip (where it sits against the nozzle) and it wasn't "sealing" properly anymore. Polished it with some nail files and Tamiya Compound and it's fine.
Since you've had yours for a while I imagine you have the old nozzle/needle. They replaced them (I believe) this year precisely because they were prone to cracks and wear.
I'll have to do some polishing and see what happens. Disappointing as neither set has much time on them.
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Done lots of spraying over the decades with a Paasche V, Paasche H and Iwata BCS (used Paasche VS cups) and never really had an issue spraying. Now I have this H&S Evolution Silverline 2-in-1 (.2 and .4 sizes) and I am getting spitting of paint at the beginning of the spray and then some random single spits while spraying across the project. In the past (prior to the H&S) I'd just toss some paint and thinner in the cup, back feed to stir and test. Add a touch of thinner or paint, depending on what's needed, and try again. Sometimes tweak the air pressure and viola. After a while it became second nature so it was quick to mix and spray. It's doing it on both Mr Surfacer 1200 and Tamiya (in this case a yellow). A while back I was using some blues/whites like the colors on a Corsair and I don't recall this issue........but that was over a year ago. Tamiya paints was used their, along with the H&S. It doesn't seem to matter if I use Mr Color Thinner or Mr Color Self Leveling Thinner. Never had a problem with them in the past. It's a brand new bottle of Tamiya Yellow as well. It doesn't seem to matter if I dial the PSI down or up. I haven't been measuring ratios as I've always done it by feel and adjusted as needed. I try to shoot around 15psi and adjust the paint mix from their, or make slight adjustments to PSI. I've open the valve on the bottom of the air compressor tank and no moisture plus I have an inline moisture trap that I opened the valve up. Been using that combination for a long time.
I don't know if the H&S works a little different than the Iwata. Tip sizes are similar, .35 on the Iwata and either the .2 or .4 on the H&S. I've torn the brush down and clean it out. Could it be the lacquer thinner I use to clean it? Used on all my Paasches and Iwatas for a long long time without issue.
I'm just dumbfounded at this point.
Side note: If it wasn't for the cup falling out of the Iwata I'd try that out and see what happens. I think that after using it for a long time the mounting point for the cup is worn out and doesn't hold tightly.
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Would you all stop it? Just trying to get back at modeling and you are making me want to join a bunch of GBs. P-51, Spitfire and now this? It's a possibility.............I lose 3 weeks on the Mustang build with vacations. Plus I got woodworking projects I want to do. I'll see how it goes and advise! I do have a Hobbyboss F4F-3 (Late) in the stash. Might have a Tamiya F4F-4 too, but gotta check. Standing by........
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So been thinking about what order to paint this in. I am thinking yellow first as it will b easier to mask the yellow on the nose/cowl instead of masking around the struts. Also would seem easier to mask around tail. Thoughts?
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Well, got seam cleanup done...........wasn't as bad as I thought. Sprayed some Mr Surfacer on there to see how things looked. Few spots touched up, re-sanded and now the second coat to check my work is drying. In my typical "bull in a china shop" model building tendencies I've managed to break off the tail wheel (I found it) along with one of the struts (about 20 times). This will probably be all for the weekend. Bro-in-law is in town and he's staying next to the room I use for modeling (model room is like a walk in closet).
For the most part I am happy how it turned out having not done much modeling in the past, what, 4 or 5 years. It'll probably be one of those 2' - 3' models..........thankfully not a 5' model. 😆
BT-17 Stearman......progress continues. by Jim Fox, on Flickr
BT-17 Stearman......progress continues. by Jim Fox, on Flickr
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3 hours ago, Dandie Dinmont said:
I recently bought a H&S Evolution Silverline 2 in 1. I’m a complete airbrush newbie but so far have found it problem free using a variety of different paints (Humbrol, Xtracrylic and Vallejo) and the 0.2 mm setup. I’ve also found it very easy to disassemble and clean. After a few sessions I invested the princely sum of 40 pence in the cap which allows you to flush back into the paint cup. As I understand it, one of the uses for this cap is to allow you to flush back between colour changes before doing a full strip down at the end of the session. If you’ve any questions about the silverline, I’d be happy to answer them.
Craig.
Which cap did you end up getting?
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Been trying to think back to why that top piece (cockpit piece) and ??cowling?? pieces didn't quite match up. I'm thinking that the registration pins/recesses that the cockpit/frame assembly were a little bigger/smaller from paint build up. Probably should of cleaned them out a bit because it is hard to firmly press them into place because of the cockpit/frame assembly. The back of the cockpit top piece fits good, the front is a little short compared to the back, so a small step is there. Afraid their is gonna be a lot of detail ost during the cleanup.
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The build continues...............dang am I rusty! Some times I feel like I am all thumbs. I'm a photographer....................I need to dig the real camera out and stop using the iPhone. Gonna have some sanding to do..............as some details to repair. 😖 Gonna end up sanding off some raised and recessed details because I am rusty.
Revell PT-17.....the build continues. by Jim Fox, on Flickr
Revell PT-17.....the build continues. by Jim Fox, on Flickr
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3 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:
Ah, here is the info, on @BlueNosers352nd reference....
"Original USAAF issue PT-17 , handed over to the Navy, the aircraft retains it's Air Force....... "
Wonder what's the rest of the sentence?
It's a great looking decor option by the way
That's actually for the one below it.
N2S-3 (US Navy Designation for PT-17_, 39123, ca. 1944. The aircraft is a mix of aluminum doped and Orange Yellow (FS 13538) areas. This aircraft has a wooden propeller.
I don't have any references for any PT-17s or let alone this bird. So I guess I either do a different version so I don't have to worry about the forward exhaust or say it was a "FIELD MOD" 😂. Don't really feel like messing with making a forward exhaust. Hmmmmm
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31 minutes ago, Devilfish said:
Just ordered this kit and plan to do it in RAF trainer yellow, so will be watching this with interest.
Oh man, putting the pressure on me now! Definitely replace the blobs they call seat belts!
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Trying to get the modeling juices flowing again with something not to crazy before the P-51 STGB starts in a few weeks. Other than the limited rigging on this kit, it looks like it will be a quick build........if my back will allow it. The molded in belts are flat out awful, so I tried to replace them with an old Eduard set that you have to build the lap belts piece by piece. I remember why I don't do photoetch much. So the heck with that and the pilots just need to hope they don't fall out I guess! Don't look too close at the seats......PLEASE DON'T.
Other than a dull coat on the side walls, I am ready to assemble. Not shown are a lot more pieces painted and read to go.
Beginnings of a 1/48 PT-17 Stearman by Jim Fox, on Flickr
I try to do not so common schemes, so I knew the standard Blue or Yellow schemes were out. OD planes just don't do it for me. So I ordered a set of Iliad Designs (already had one purchased, so now I have doubles) decals and am doing this Yellow/Silver Navy PT-17.
Navy PT-17 by Jim Fox, on Flickr-
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36 minutes ago, Goatdriver said:
Bonjour Patrice,
I'd like to join the GB. I just got a Tamiya 1/32 P-51D that I plan to build in D-Day configuration. I'm not sure which particular aircraft yet. A question--what does the ST in STGB mean?
Thanks.
Robert
STGB stands for Single Type. As in only P-51 Mustangs vs say like the upcoming Trainers Group build in February. Any trainer aircraft type would fit that one, just not say a PT-17 Stearman only group build.
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2 hours ago, little-cars said:
H&S have removable cups which makes deep cleaning a lot simpler. Personally I don't miss the 'quick pull back' that is on some Iwatas, the back handle just unscrews in a couple of seconds.
To each their own on the quick pull back thingie. The other thing I miss from the Iwata (or even the old clunky Paasches......loved the H though) I had was the ability to back feed air in then by holding your finger over the nozzle. Made mixing paint and cleaning easier. But I've only used the H&S Silverline brush a few times, so maybe I'm missing something on the hand over the nozzle back feed thing.
I do like the ability to preset the stop to control how far back you go. Once my skills/touch becomes better after a while of using it I probably can max out the stop and kinda get the same effect as the pull back thingie.
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If I can keep the modeling juices flowing (gonna participate in P-51 STGB in December)..........I am game. Just ordered this set, and would like to do the first profile. I'd have to order the Tamiya kit to do it.......already built one with Black/White bottom. I always like doing unique schemes.
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1 hour ago, Threadbear said:
I'm just as bad with group builds too. But plenty of options in the stash plus you can always buy another....
Being a newbie here and trying to get back at it..........I have no track record here. But with our club's group builds over the years I've had the same issue.........3 to 4 yrs later completing a kit.
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On 11/15/2019 at 4:56 AM, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:
Having the real paint names is always an advantage, so, this site is good for US Navy ships:
http://shipcamouflage.com/usn_ca.htm
...which says that in 1942 Minneapolis was wearing Measure 21 camouflage.
This page on same site gives:
http://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_21.htm
My bold text below highlights the real names of the two key paints you need.
BTW Jamie, thanks for the the info. That'll get me started! Didn't wanna leave your response hanging!
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Boy dare I post what I am reading? It can take me a year to read a book, or like the 2017 annual edition of this book I read it in a month. But don't worry, I don't remember what I read 2 mins later.
My current read (2018 Volume)......😟 (sorry, it's what I am into right now). The 13 page chapter on the importance of sheep, was a tough one to get through.
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1/48 PT-17 Stearman.....and so it begins
in Work in Progress - Aircraft
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Yes silver......haven't decided what paint I am going to use for that. If I were to go solely with what I have in the paint rack I'd only have Alclads or the old Testors Silver.