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Arjan

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  1. Hi Greg, good to hear you haven't abandoned your S-Boot project. I used a 6mm rat tail file for the tube slots in the hull. I usually use CA glue to fix the outer tubes in the correct position. Finally I fill the gaps with Tamiya putty . Regards, Arjan
  2. I have finally applied the "D" initials to the doors of the bridge. These letters were made by a fellow clubmember with some kind of cutting device. Arjan
  3. Thanks gentlemen ! Beefy: I did have a sailing dinghy when I was young but it was much smaller (4.70 metres). Still, it would be nice to have a 3d miniature version of myself for my rc models ..... Unfortunately, these 3d copies are still far too expensive so I will have to make do with 5 inch action figures. The figure in question is from the ghastly Walking Dead tv series, I once watched an episode and I found it was excruciatingly boring. Regards, Arjan
  4. In the mean time I've assembled the anchor and fitted the sails : Arjan
  5. The British war time film "The broad fourteens" is a good source of Vosper reference images. At least one frame shows that the dc release mechanism could apparently be operated from the bridge. Not clear to me , however , where these levers were situated on the starboard panel. Are there other pics/images of these levers ? For those who don't know the film in question : https://spitfiresofthesea.com/the-broad-fourteens/ Many of the scenes were shot at Weymouth harbour and to my surprise many of the buildings have survived to this day. The club house of the Weymouth sailing club and next to it the life boat station : This striking round facade is also still there : Arjan
  6. This afternoon I have tested the model on the water to see how the rudder and motor perform and also to get an idea of how much additional ballast is required. The sails will be made later by my sail maker. I added small springs to the rudder lines to eliminate the play caused by the rigidity of the fishing line. These springs proved to be very effective since there is no longer any play on the rudder. The motor and prop combination results in a perfect scale speed. I also applied the Colin Archer decals which are probably some 30 years old. To my relief they were still perfectly usable. At least one kilo of additional ballast is required. Arjan
  7. Many thanks Steve for your comprehensive account. I used to have an external mix air brush (a basic Badger one) many years ago and clogging was indeed rare. It only took a very small amount of thinner to spray Tamiya paint with this air brush. . When I switched to internal mix brushes, however, I had to add much more thinner and clogging became more frequent. Perhaps I should get myself another basic external mix air brush for spraying polyurethane paints. Of course temperature is also an important factor in problem free spraying. In general acrylics seem to require a higher temperature than enamel (water doesn't evaporate as fast as enamel thinner) Regards, Arjan
  8. In the mean time I have fitted the dead-eyes of the main mast , I installed the motor and made the mainsheet traveller detachable. I used jewellery fittings to fix the dead-eyes so the mast can be removed easily. I mounted a spring underneath the mast foot to keep the rigging taut. I hope captain Bjørn is satisfied . Arjan
  9. I have been thinking about the steering setup for a long time and I've finally decided to mount the steering servo in the cockpit and to use fishing line rather than a rigid servo rod. The fact that the CA model has a rudder behind rather than under the hull makes the steering setup more difficult and the pointed stern doesn't help either. This is what BB suggest : I don't like this particular setup because a rigid servo rod would mean one has to make a sizable hole in the stern. Also the position of the servo restricts sail winch mounting options and access in general. Some solutions other modellers opted for. This builder connected the servo to the tiller and not to the rudder itself, I do like the position of the servo here : The connection between the rod and rudder looks rather awful here : This builder here opted for a flexible cable : My solution, I did have to remove the mounting lugs of the servo to fit it into the cockpit (I often have to remove these mounting lugs for my projects) : I also started work on the sails by colorizing the red circle and black letters/numbers in the sails. I used waterproof paint markers for this job : Arjan
  10. Hi Greg, better to spill it over a table than the model . I'm looking forward to seeing some pics of your models. Regards, Arjan
  11. Thanks Steve, please keep me posted about your findings regarding the flow improver and cleaner. Regards, Arjan
  12. Hi Stephen, I have more or less followed the recommendations Vallejo provide for spraying Polyurethane surface primer : https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/category/hobby/surface-primer-en/ I read somewhere Vallejo recommend using an 0.4mm nozzle which to me is an indication that clogging is definitely an issue with this type of paint. . I use Vallejo Premium reducer (62.066) to dilute the Polyurethane stuff. I really doubt if the normal Vallejo Airbrush thinner (71.161) is suitable for diluting Polyurethane paint/varnish. I use an airbrush with an 0.3mm nozzle and it usually clogs up at some point. I have never tried the Vallejo flow improver so I don't know if this stuff is any good in preventing clogging/tip drying. Cleaning the nozzle afterwards is also an issue, normal enamel thinner and alcohol doesn't seem to affect the Polyurethane paint once it has more or less dried . I have never tried Vallejo airbrush cleaner but I doubt if it works well for cleaning the nozzle after having sprayed Polyurethane paint. To sum up, I really can't recommend Vallejo Polyurethane paint for spraying and whenever possible (especially for smaller surfaces) I apply it with a conventional paintbrush. Regards, Arjan
  13. Hi Greg. I fitted the foremost torp cradle and stanchion to the deck without using glue. The plastic Italeri stanchions I have used are vulnerable so I have to be very careful when removing the whole deck. Fortunately, I only have to remove the entire deck when something is wrong with the rudders, the steering servo or links. For battery changes and greasing the shafts the access provided by the smaller removable deck section suffices. Regards, Arjan
  14. Last year I bought a second hand BB CA kit that had already been partially built and painted. I started by building the masts and booms, the bow sprit had already been built by the previous owner of the kit : I modified and repainted the bow sprit because it didn't look right : I added bollards and cat heads : The windlass had already been built and painted but I wasn't happy with it so I removed the paint with oven cleaner : I added the pin rail and some other parts : A 1/15 figure to give a sense of scale : The line thrower and some other parts : I cast a lead ballast keel consisting of separate pieces so I can adjust the weight and trim the boat . According to the building instructions 6kg of ballast is required but I think that's probably a bit much. Last week I repainted the underwater ship. The underwater ship should be red brown and the previous owner had not marked the water line correctly : This morning I made these pics : I'm going to use this motor and esc : Arjan
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