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Everything posted by Harvs73

  1. Red Roo decals are now on with the kit stencil markings to get done in the next day or so.
  2. A bit more work done:
  3. I am not too happy with the paint consistency but it just takes a bit more work to get the effect I want. My theory is the green paint was on first then they painted the red/brown over the top so I have replicated this. The red/brown being over the top of the green means that it would not weather to the same extent as the green ie not as much through to the silver at this stage. I have not replicated the paint pealing off as I had originally wanted but to me it looks ok for a well worn aircraft that has managed to survive the Australian and US aircraft in the New Guinea / Rabaul area. I r
  4. The sticky tape didn't work out how I was wanting it to go but I changed tactics and used my scalpel blade, wet and dry and a little bit of silver paint to get the effect in the photos. I totally messed up the other cowl so it gets redone tomorrow. I think I failed the sticky tape way as I ended up using Enamel paint and I think I put it on a touch too thick.
  5. I found this half finished kit the other day while looking for some kits to do in the DK Decals set for Spitfires in Australia I recently reviewed on AMI. It is going to be a Spitfire Mk XVIe of 451 SQN RAAF using the Red Roo Decals 'Away Team Pt 3' set representing Spitfire Mk XVIe, NI*V, Matlaske, UK, March 1945. Scheme - Conventional Day Fighter. It's the Hasegawa kit with a Loon Conversions fuselage. The Loon fuselage is not the greatest in that the panel lines are a bit dodgy but it looks good enough for the job. It is the right length and has the right details in the right spot so it wor
  6. I purchased the 1/48 Betty to compliment my RAAF and RAF bombers a few years ago and thanks to being in a job that gets me to move every few years I have not wanted to build a big kit like this. I am now in the same spot for the next few years and (hopefully) not that far from retiring so I decided to finally make it, the 1/48 Lancasters, Lincolns, C-47, Wellington and 1/32 Swordfish and Avenger will hopefully be getting started in the not to distant future as well. As I am not overly concerned about the interior due to very little being visible when closed up I decided to not get
  7. I made a RAAF PR16 out of the Tamiya kit but it needed a fair bit of work done on it to get it to the stage I was happy. I used the CMK conversion for the PR16 and some other bits and pieces, the bulged canopy was the problem child to install but now there are other AM canopies that you can use. PS. Yes, I did it with flaps down. http://www.aussiemodeller.com.au/pages/Reviews/Conversions/Harvey_PR16 conversion.html
  8. I am doing this kit as well during lock down. The one thing that fixed the bad fit for the cockpit tub is just cutting the sides in two at the rear so the rear bulkhead fits in. I have test fitted it and this appears to solve the issue without the need to cut the section for the front bulkhead.
  9. I either use Humbrol Chocolate Hu98 enamel or Pollyscale RAAF Earth Brown acrylic which I don't think is made anymore, I don't use Tamiya for that sort of painting of RAAF aircraft.
  10. I was test fitting the wings and they are a pain to line up. The lack of locating pins and no definite spot to join then means a fair bit of careful alignment and taping prior to adding glue. The trimming of parts due to mould shift barely registers these days as I have made too many short run kits and main stream manufacturers kits that need it.
  11. I don't think I am allowed to comment anymore as I am a 'modeller from the Southern Hemisphere'.
  12. I have two kits with varying amounts of flash of which neither are as bad as the kit on the video. I have found this with previous Airfix kits that have varying levels of flash, sink marks and being short shot when comparing multiples of the same kit. The problems can generally be easily overcome but a modern new release kit should not have these issues. Perfect detail is not expected due to the price but the plastic being correct and not suffering these problems is.
  13. I did the same and now think that one corner of the insert is slightly warped thus causing a bit of misalignment overall. While I can fix the gap you show (it was also on my kit) I don't think that it should be there given the ability of other manufacturers to get panels like that to fit.
  14. No, I have a problem with whinging over nothing. Airfix has been rightfully slammed for various problems including short shot parts and missing panels on the Meteor, short shot parts and sink marks on the Blenheim and trenches for panel lines on various kits, this is not like that. The whining is about panel lines of similar dimensions to many other manufacturers yet the people complaining neglect poor detail and what I believe is incorrect detail in the cockpit.
  15. I compared the kit to Airfix Spit F22/24 and Sea Fury, Eduard Hellcat and various others in my stash and there is nothing wrong with what is represented on this kit. I can always post phitos of that as well as comparison images of the Acadamy Spit 14 or maybe the Hobbycraft Sea Fury to show real crappy panel lines. I am also at a loss how you can comment on the panel lines if you don't have it, have you actually seen the production kit close up?
  16. Having finally received my kits I am intrigued with all the carry on about the panel lines and am wondering exactly which manufacturer and kit it's being compared against? While it is not perfect (if it was you would not see panel lines) it is not too bad at all with the finesse of the panel lines and detail represented, it might not be accurate (is it?) but it looks good to me when compared to several other manufacturers kits in my stash. A better question though, exactly which mark of Spitfire does the cockpit represent? I have looked at images of actual Spit Mk 14's and the kit
  17. Thanks. I thought the cowl would fit while dry fitting it but once the gkue was applied it didn't quite work out. A lot of the oversize riveting is annoying and reverting to the 'old' Airfix as well as being non existant or vastly overscale.
  18. The Airfix kit is by far the easiest build out of the three. The only criticism is the poor fit of the cowl as it is too small for the nose ring and fuselage. My build log is at the link below which highlights the various areas I had to address. http://forum.aussiemodeller.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14272
  19. Here are a few images of my recently completed 1/48 Sea Fury. I will be adding more images after I place them on my site. The wings are not attached as I should be moving at the end of the year due to work and want to be able to easily move it. A bit of a comparison between the Airfix, Trumpeter and Hobbycraft kits.
  20. I am finally calling this one completed! I will be adding more images to my site then will add the completed images to here. The wings are not attached at this point as I should be moving later this year due to work so I want to be able to disassemble it for the move.
  21. I believe it is just the decals that have changed.
  22. I finally received the Eduard canopy masks and applied those so I could paint the model. The AML camouflage pattern masks are the wrong pattern, they are the 'B' pattern' so I photo copied them and reversed them on to the model giving the 'A' scheme. I was not overly impressed with the lack of map for the various masks as some of them were quite hard to work out where they go. I have used Humbrol Hu29 for the Dark Earth and Hu 116 for the Dark Green. The Hu116 airbrushes much lighter than it looks in the tin.
  23. The base wash of thinned black paint has been applied and the matt coat sprayed on once the wash dried. Once it is all dry the detail painting is to commence and then the final weathering and attachment of all the small parts.
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