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About Harvs73

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  1. I am starting to work on the interior now of the 1/48 Anson using the Classic Airframes boxing of it. I really dislike the amount of resin used in these kits as they use it for many parts that don't need it eg the framing is poorly cast and chunks of it are going to be replaced with plastic rod. The interior green needs some more work and I have yet to paint some of the detail areas. At this stage I am tossing up between A4-6 of 22 SQN circa 1939 or No 1 Comms Flight circa 1941. Both are in overall aluminum and have their gun turrets. I have put in a bit more of the interior and plan to put in some wiring behind some of the dials, radios etc. The instrument panel was a pain to position as there are no location points visible and I can't find an image of the real Mk 1 to show me the positioning. Where it is here fits and the canopy goes over it when I do test fitting so it is a good a spot as any. I still have more additions for interior where I will be replacing poorly cast resin with plastic and building up a few extra bits and pieces. I am not going to get that excited as I don't think that much will be seen once it is done and closed up. The wings are not too bad when going together. The wheel well is a bit dodgy as there are no location markings to help you locate the internal bits. While the wing goes together well the engine nacelle needs some help as the profile of the front bit is different from the wing part. A bit of filler and some work with a file and wet and dry managed to get it looking ok. This isn't hard but it does take time.
  2. Harvs73

    ICM 1/48 Do 17Z-7

    Here it is with the first coat on of 1 part dark gray to four parts satin black. The edge has been taken off the black and it is not so stark now. I plan on putting on another coat of the mix to get all the parts I missed then put on the decals. Once decalled I will start the weathering process of black panel line wash and a variety of dark grays to highlight panels. The annoying part is that the paint has highlighted some areas that need a touch up on the joints prior to the respray.
  3. I can easily fix that if you want.
  4. I am still slowly working on the F-105G and am now down to the small details. I have painted the exhaust Testors Metalizer 'Burnt metal' and have buffed it up. The image below has the untouched parts on the right with the most polished/buffed part on the left.
  5. Harvs73

    ICM 1/48 Do 17Z-7

    While the filler on the wing dries I have done a bit of work on the undercarriage and wheel bay.
  6. Harvs73

    ICM 1/48 Do 17Z-7

    It is starting to look like a 'Flying Pencil' now. The tail needed a little cleaning up and a small amount of putty on the joints. The wing joint turned out better than I thought it would. I am going to work a little more on the front joint in the morning once it is all dry. I had to but a spacer inside the wing to ensure that the underside joints fit the fuselage correctly as they were slightly out and I didn't want to have to hang on to it for an extended period while the glue dried. I really like the way they have done the wheel bay, it just clips in nicely together with minimal chance of getting it wrong. The wheel bay is now weathered by having a brown wash followed by a lightened dry brush of RLM02.
  7. Harvs73

    ICM 1/48 Do 17Z-7

    A bit of work has now been done on the cockpit area of the DO-17. I have yet to do any weathering which will be a brown wash followed by a little highlighting. Here is the cockpit prior to any weathering. I need to touch up the boxes on the left a bit as they didn't work out quite how I wanted them. The cockpit goes together well just with minimal problems. The locating holes they use help ensure each part is in the right spot though one or two of them were a bit big. If I did this again I would use the Eduard PE for the cockpit as it would definitely put a bit of colour to the area. I have actually been using the Eduard PE instructions to get the colour suggestions for the cockpit area as they are a more useful in this way then the kit instructions. The instrument panel is a bit dodgy when putting it together as the right hand section has no real location spot and has a minimal area for the glue to work. Here are the wheels etc that have been started. The engines should be done today.
  8. I just purchased this kit and thought I would get in to it while finishing off a few others as well as starting an A-20 in RAAF colours. The kit is nicely cast with minimal flash on the parts. The interior is going to be RLM 02 and the exterior is black, this will be done with various grays at this stage with minimal actual black paint involved. There are some ejector post marks that need cleaning up more than I initially thought, especially in the cockpit area and bomb bay The easy part of gluing in the cockpit parts prior to painting it RLM 02 and then detailing the dials etc. The bulkheads are going in ok and have not caused any problems as yet when test fitted with a closed fuselage. There has been a little more flash than I first thought, nothing extreme, but a little bit. It is a little bigger than I thought it would be. The join behind the cockpit is going to be a problem and will need to be filled with filler or plastic card as I can't quite get it to fit properly. This poor fitting may just change when the fuselage i s actually glued together.
  9. Harvs73

    Italeri 1/48 HC.21 Shawnee

    It doesn't look too bad with the matt coat on and masking removed. I still have the small details to do on the fuselage and make the rotors (still have to find the missing part for the second rotor).
  10. Harvs73

    Airfix 1/48 Sea Fury

    I thought it would look ok when all together but the center cowling parts are too small and they need help. The next one I will either replace them with AM stuff or make them a little bigger to fit correctly. I have plenty more cleaning up to do prior to starting the paint job. The tail planes fit well but the locating lugs are a fraction too long and need trimming. If you don't trim them they interfere with the other side and force it upwards causing the wrong angle too occur and just look stupid.
  11. The legs are a bit wobbly, hopefully the struts firm it up a bit.
  12. The initial RAAF markings are on and I reckon it looks good in this scheme.
  13. I have managed to start the Airfix 1/48 Sea Fury and am planning on doing it OOB using kit decals and nothing else added to it. I have started to work on the interior and actually painted it black instead of the usual dark grey to represent 'scale' black. The problem, of course, will be that as soon as the fuselage is closed up all the detail will become invisible due to it being black and having a small canopy opening. The engine assembly requires care as you need to ensure that you put the four parts in the correct way due to the different sized lugs on each part. You will find that the engine and cowling parts fit nicely together without glue for the test fitting as I have here. The wheel well is more detailed that the Hobbycraft kit but still needs some extra detail if you are in to that sort of thing. The tolerance levels on the model can be very tight as the image of the wing joints below shows. This is just sitting there without any glue or anything holding it together. You do need to follow the instructions when fitting the wings and fuselage together as they are keyed in enough that the fuselage won't get in properly. The engine assembly is slightly ill fitting, the biggest problem is the rear component that is to big. You either need to file the rear section down or add about .5 - 1mm to the center cowling to get it all to be the same size. The front cowling can be sanded down slightly to merge in to the center section easily.
  14. Harvs73

    Italeri 1/48 HC.21 Shawnee

    Here is the model with the black wash done prior to the matt varnish. I have successfully either misplaced one of the rotor hubs and side windows or put them somewhere 'safe' as I can't find them to finish off the model.
  15. I have managed to mask it and airbrush on the green scheme using Gunze H-80.