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About Harvs73

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  1. Red Roo decals are now on with the kit stencil markings to get done in the next day or so.
  2. A bit more work done:
  3. I am not too happy with the paint consistency but it just takes a bit more work to get the effect I want. My theory is the green paint was on first then they painted the red/brown over the top so I have replicated this. The red/brown being over the top of the green means that it would not weather to the same extent as the green ie not as much through to the silver at this stage. I have not replicated the paint pealing off as I had originally wanted but to me it looks ok for a well worn aircraft that has managed to survive the Australian and US aircraft in the New Guinea / Rabaul area. I realise that the ailerons are actually fabric but I will hopeful work out what to do with those in the near future. Too much or not enough? Your thoughts?
  4. The sticky tape didn't work out how I was wanting it to go but I changed tactics and used my scalpel blade, wet and dry and a little bit of silver paint to get the effect in the photos. I totally messed up the other cowl so it gets redone tomorrow. I think I failed the sticky tape way as I ended up using Enamel paint and I think I put it on a touch too thick.
  5. I found this half finished kit the other day while looking for some kits to do in the DK Decals set for Spitfires in Australia I recently reviewed on AMI. It is going to be a Spitfire Mk XVIe of 451 SQN RAAF using the Red Roo Decals 'Away Team Pt 3' set representing Spitfire Mk XVIe, NI*V, Matlaske, UK, March 1945. Scheme - Conventional Day Fighter. It's the Hasegawa kit with a Loon Conversions fuselage. The Loon fuselage is not the greatest in that the panel lines are a bit dodgy but it looks good enough for the job. It is the right length and has the right details in the right spot so it works for me as it fixes the Hawegawa 'short fuselage' problem. http://www.aussiemodeller.com.au/pages/ ... amPt3.html All the little gaps filled and undercoat of Mr Surfacer 1500 on. I used Humbrol and Pollyscale paints for the upper and lower colours. with Hu90 for the 'Sky' band and spinner. It is about cured now so it will receive a coat of varnish then decalling begins.
  6. I purchased the 1/48 Betty to compliment my RAAF and RAF bombers a few years ago and thanks to being in a job that gets me to move every few years I have not wanted to build a big kit like this. I am now in the same spot for the next few years and (hopefully) not that far from retiring so I decided to finally make it, the 1/48 Lancasters, Lincolns, C-47, Wellington and 1/32 Swordfish and Avenger will hopefully be getting started in the not to distant future as well. As I am not overly concerned about the interior due to very little being visible when closed up I decided to not get too excited about it. The interior colours are the Mr Colour Mitsubishi interior green and Aotaki. Prior to closing up the interior I weathered the Mitsubishi interior green with some Humbrol Reed Green then a little drybrushing of silver on the highlights or high traffic areas. The cockpit is missing so much detail, and not just little stuff. Behind the second seat, on the desk, should be a radio and coming down from the roof should be the antenna pole but they are all absent. You then have lots of smaller detail such as the lamp on the plotters table and so on. I understand the smaller stuff being missing but big basic things like radios and antenna masts are a bit of a silly one to miss, especially given how much space it would take in the cockpit and how busy it would look. I painted the engines with Aotaki first then using various Humbrol paints I did the cylinders etc with a little silver drybrushing to bring out the detail. I have painted the whole aircraft with Hu27002 with the intention to use acrylics over the top and start using tape to strip of chunks to represent the weathered Japanese aircraft. I figured this will work as I somehow manage to do similar without even trying on other kits so I thought I would give it a go. If it doesn't work it is still ok as the IJN acft were either silver or gray underneath depending on which book or Forum post you read. It is going to be the two tone camouflage version at this stage.
  7. I made a RAAF PR16 out of the Tamiya kit but it needed a fair bit of work done on it to get it to the stage I was happy. I used the CMK conversion for the PR16 and some other bits and pieces, the bulged canopy was the problem child to install but now there are other AM canopies that you can use. PS. Yes, I did it with flaps down. http://www.aussiemodeller.com.au/pages/Reviews/Conversions/Harvey_PR16 conversion.html
  8. I am doing this kit as well during lock down. The one thing that fixed the bad fit for the cockpit tub is just cutting the sides in two at the rear so the rear bulkhead fits in. I have test fitted it and this appears to solve the issue without the need to cut the section for the front bulkhead.
  9. I either use Humbrol Chocolate Hu98 enamel or Pollyscale RAAF Earth Brown acrylic which I don't think is made anymore, I don't use Tamiya for that sort of painting of RAAF aircraft.
  10. I was test fitting the wings and they are a pain to line up. The lack of locating pins and no definite spot to join then means a fair bit of careful alignment and taping prior to adding glue. The trimming of parts due to mould shift barely registers these days as I have made too many short run kits and main stream manufacturers kits that need it.
  11. I don't think I am allowed to comment anymore as I am a 'modeller from the Southern Hemisphere'.
  12. I have two kits with varying amounts of flash of which neither are as bad as the kit on the video. I have found this with previous Airfix kits that have varying levels of flash, sink marks and being short shot when comparing multiples of the same kit. The problems can generally be easily overcome but a modern new release kit should not have these issues. Perfect detail is not expected due to the price but the plastic being correct and not suffering these problems is.
  13. I did the same and now think that one corner of the insert is slightly warped thus causing a bit of misalignment overall. While I can fix the gap you show (it was also on my kit) I don't think that it should be there given the ability of other manufacturers to get panels like that to fit.
  14. No, I have a problem with whinging over nothing. Airfix has been rightfully slammed for various problems including short shot parts and missing panels on the Meteor, short shot parts and sink marks on the Blenheim and trenches for panel lines on various kits, this is not like that. The whining is about panel lines of similar dimensions to many other manufacturers yet the people complaining neglect poor detail and what I believe is incorrect detail in the cockpit.
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