RobL
-
Posts
213 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Media Demo
Posts posted by RobL
-
-
Same here. I'll start something, then a few days later if I still have it "in progress" I lose enthusiasm. I have to resist the urge to start something new most of the time otherwise I'll have stuff that I can't "store" whilst it's "in progress".
In the past 4 years I've gone from being able to build and finish to a reasonable (for me) standard a 1/48 Tamiya F4U-1D in 4 days, to taking months to build and finish (to a less reasonable standard) an Italeri 1/72 Harrier FRS1! I have the same issue with my tabletop wargaming modelling projects also.
-
1
-
-
Not just you. I've been getting that all day, occasionally I have had a page of recommendations. Usually use Firefox so I tried Chrome, still the same issue. I think Youtube are "playing" with their site, they often do.
Bit of a bonus actually because my recommendations are always completely useless junk...
-
Thanks PM sent.
-
1 hour ago, Kushan_Farsight said:
The issue here may be the volume of the part combined with a dense infill, causing the price to rise.
Does it need to be a 'cube'? - could it rather be almost a square 'cup' with 1mm thk sides and a 1mm thick base? This would be massively less voluminous and faster and cheaper to print.
Yes, it's not a solid piece.
This is basically what it is, there are variations on the details in the middle portion, but the overall shape, and the groove around the edges, is the same (sorry should have posted an image in the first place) -
I believe the sides, where the grooves are, are 1mm thick as the object is based on an out of production tabletop game piece.
There is even a version with just the grooves around the outside, like a frame, that one could then fill the centre portion with styrene sheet -
-
-
Hey all
Not sure if this is the right place for this, but I'm trying to get my head around 3d printing costs. Just the cost of printing the item, assuming you already have the 3d printer, not factoring in electric usage (which I don't imagine would amount to much anyway), nothing else.
I have an STL file (downloaded from Thingiverse) of an object that is basically a 72mm square 10mm thick object. Everywhere I've looked online has quoted about £10 (or more) per object (in I assume basic FDM material). However I want to print 30-60 of the object, making it economically unviable.
What are the actual costs of matierals involved for someone just printing such an object at home?
Thanks in advance.
-
Going to chime in here...
Not sure about culling the forums entirely as I've often gone looking for something, such as kit modification advice, only to find something useful from years ago. I do however think threads where people have spat the dummy and thrown the toys out of their pram, and gone and deleted all content in a thread, should be removed. Came across one such series of threads, whilst trying to find some tips on making a Falklands era Royal Navy Sea King in 1/72 scale.
Don't know the circumstances but it's a shame the user decided to take that route as I had seen the threads before and they were very useful, now the threads are just useless bytes of data.
-
Quick update on where I am with this.
Last week I put the polyfilla external texturing on. It's turned out OK, but has need of touching up/sanding smooth in places, particularly on the tower and the front bay window - I can still see the join of the foamboard on the bay window!
I also have some gaps to fill where I've now glued the main roof down (and probably the other roofs when I get around to gluing them down).
I will however be leaving the main walls as they are, no smoothing, to make it less "boring" to look at when painted.
This morning I put in the windows. They are made from the pieces of foamboard I cut out of the windows, covered in aluminium car body repair mesh. They almost look like I knew what I was doing...
Getting close to finishing the build of this, just the rear of the main roof and the witches hat tower roof to tile, the aforementioned polyfilla work, the chimney to finish, a couple of other minor bits and pieces, and then I should be ready to start painting this...
Photos, ignore the masking tape, that's just holding the roof down whilst the wood glue I used sets (hopefully) -
-
6
-
-
eBay. That's where I get most of mine from.
Dorspring models also. They have both a website and eBay shop.
Bassically look out for places that sell Evergreen and Plastruct. Other brands are out there but they're the two most common (and probably most expensive) as far as I know.
-
1
-
-
Got some more of this done tonight...
Photos -
Added some hinges and a door handle to the "door" on the "outhouse" -
Tiled one side of the main roof, the ends need tidying up and some tiles were being held in place with tape whilst they glue -
Unfortunately I've run out of styrene sheet, so I'll have to wait for some to arrive before I carry on with tiling the other side of the main roof and the witches hat tower roof.May start texturing the walls in the meantime. I get the feeling I should put the windows in first, mask them up, then apply the polyfilla wall texturing, but I'm slightly concerned about that going wrong and covering the windows or damaging the aluminium mesh I'm going to use for the window leading. Hmm...
-
3
-
-
Seconds out round two!
Tried again with the main wall colour. Did it as per above, minus the Balor Brown shading, but changed the base/under coat layer to 50/50 Tanned Flesh/Bone. Looks better to me. Caught the woodwork, but I wasn't worried about that, the aim was to achieve a reasonable looking wall colour.
-
1
-
-
So, it was too hot for me to sleep last night, until about 03:00 when I couldn't stay awake, so I had a go at starting to work out the painting process for the walls.
I had earlier in the evening made a test "wall" to test the polyfilla for the wall texture. I probably put the polyfilla on too thick as it took 2 hours to dry.
A while ago whilst browsing through White Dwarf Magazine issues for references for this project, I came across a tutorial (GW called it a Modelling Workshop) where Adrian Wild (the creator of the Inn that inspired me to make mine) described his process for painting such buildings. He stated he started with Citadel Bronzed Flesh, then drybrushed over that with Citadel Bleached Bone, and then finally in the centre of each wall panel drybrushed with a white (Citadel White obviously).
So, I tried to replicate that process. Unfortunately in the intervening 28 years Games Workshop have changed their paints, but their paints were originally supplied by HMG Paints who make Coat D'Arms paints and the Coat D'Arms paints range is apparently still almost identical to the original Games Workshop paints. So for Bronzed Flesh, which no longer exists in Games Workshop's paint range, I bought a pot of Coat D'Arms Tanned Flesh, which is apparently the equivalent.
Unfortunately the current Coat D'Arms Tanned Flesh doesn't look like an equivalent to Citadel Bronzed Flesh of the early to mid 90s to me, it looks too orange to me, photo -
I also bought Coat D'Arms Bone, just in case, as even though Games Workshop still have an equivalent to Bleached Bone in their range it may not be quite the same shade as it used to be, this one does look OK to me, photo -
Anyhow, I had a go and this is the result, it actually doesn't look too bad in the photo, but to the mk1 eyeball it's definitely on the orange side due to the undercoat of Tanned Flesh. I used Citadel Pallid Wych Flesh instead of pure white for the centre of the panel. I watered down some Citadel Balor Brown and painted that into the areas where I thought there would be shadows. The wood was painted with Citadel paints, Dryad Bark to start with, then given a wash of Nuln Oil, followed by drybrushes of Stormvermin Fur and Celestra Grey, that turned out about how I want it, although I need to improve my drybrushing as I've got streaks and too much grey in places, it was only a quick rough test though -
I think for the actual painting I will go with a 50/50 mix of Coat D'Arms Tanned Flesh and Bone for the base/under coat, just to reduce the orange look to the mk1 eyeball.
-
2
-
-
So, more progress today. Did some more of the roof tiles whilst I was watching the BTCC package on ITV4.
Photos -
Rear attic window -
Front bay window. I noticed the roof was sitting too high, so I lowered the roof line a bit (simple straight cut just above the window) -
I initially couldn't work out what to use as the cap tiles along the spine of the roofs. It seemed to be a case of cutting some of the 10mm square tiles in half. Then I realised that I had some right angle styrene strip lying around. Luckily it's not too small, not sure I'll be able to get away with using that on the main roof...
Some gaps where the roofs join the main roof and the window parts, but hopefully when I've tiled the main roof, and can glue the other two roofs down, those gaps will disappear. If not I can fill gaps on the window areas with polyfilla and I have some 0.5mm lead I can use to run down the gaps between the roofs...
-
4
-
-
So, progress update.
Bit warm where I am in the UK...
...been too warm for me recently, but today I spent a while doing some more of this project, trying to take my mind off the heat, humidity, and the quite painful arthritic inflammation in my right foot that it is causing...
Photos -
1 A4 sheet of plasticard, cut down to form 10mm square roof tiles.
One of 4 plastic shot glass the above were stored in, it was full -
The above tiles got used to tile the roof of the wood store -
Couple more photos of the wood store -
The wood store is made from balsa wood, besides the roof which is plasticard. As you can see I've put a magnet on the cross beam at the back to fit the wood store to the main building. I've tried to make the balsa look wood like when painted, although I think I need to have another go on the parts I've already done as they're a bit too dark and brown for my liking.
Outhouse made for the end of the building -
I'll be making some hinges and a door handle for this using plasticard (1mm sheet for the hinges), half round plasticard rod (2mm for the hinges and the door handle) and some rose gold copper wire I have (0.8mm or 1mm diameter, whichever looks best).
The lower two tiers of the building with the new bits "attached", you'll also notice that I have "dressed" the corners of the ground floor walls, it's just 1mm thick plasticard cut and sanded on the edges. I've also added a texture to the 5mm XPS foam sheet I'm using as a base. I may redo that on another 5mm sheet of XPS having heated it with a heat gun to get more definition in the texture, or I may use a 10mm sheet of XPS foam and do the same -
-
3
-
-
I wouldn't say anything below 1/32, maybe in 1/48, scale has anything visible in the cockpit, when completed, unless you go to great lengths to make it visible or people are really up close to the model inspecting it with a magnifying glass.
However if you're stuck for subjects I'll second the P-51D. And raise you a P-47. Basically anything with a bubble top canopy.
-
Nice. The finish and two-tone colour you have on it somehow reminds me of a Great White or Orca. Or Airwolf.
-
Kit Manufacturer: Italeri.
Scale: 1/72.
Paints used: Gunze, couple of Tamiya and Vallejo.
Clear coats: Tamiya semi gloss.
Weathering products - a clay wash overall.
Aftermarket - Master pitot and AOA, Xtradecals RAF serials, acrylic rod and MDF base.
This was my reference, the photo purporting to be from 1982 at "RNAS Yeovilton on return from Falkland Islands conflict aboard HMS Invincible" - http://www.aerialvisuals.ca/AirframeDossier.php?Serial=183426
Ever had one of those models where past a certain point you just want to bin it...
I started this back in April. Kept on "losing enthusiasm" for it, but finally "finished" it today.
I wanted to mount this on an acrylic rod, but couldn't do the usual trick of shoving it up the tail pipe, so I used the rear wheel well as my hole, and stuck a piece of styrene tube inside to take the clear rod.
I used Xtradecals RAF serial numbers for the 006, they're a bit oversized though. The rest of the decals are from the kit.
There's a litany of problems with this model though. Mostly my own doing since getting the paint down on the main bulk of the model. Firstly I put the decals down over a semi-gloss clear coat, they silvered in places and I couldn't resolve that. The model had a clay wash over it, but it seems to just have come straight off, hasn't even gone into most of the panel lines. The barge boards behind the rear exhaust nozzles didn't turn out the colour I wanted, I must not have shaken up my Vallejo Jet Exhaust enough when I brush painted it on. I have somehow managed to get the exhaust nozzles the wrong way round in terms of the colour they are painted. I've lost a couple of parts to the carpet monster just before photographing. Some parts didn't fit nicely (the sidewinder rails for example). There is also a gap at the back of the canopy which needs filling, I've given up now so I've left that as it is!
Photos -
Thanks for looking.
-
18
-
-
Enter The Dragon. 'nuff said. RIP John Saxon.
-
1
-
-
9 hours ago, Toe said:
I would assume that it won't get as far as Revell as it could be seen modelling is a more "grown up" pastime for want of a better word and efforts of the Peace Society would fall on deaf ears
Bell isn't an exclusively military manufacturer either,
8 hours ago, Truro Model Builder said:I wouldn't assume anything. Revell aim their products at children in Germany in exactly the same way Airfix does in the UK.
Neither would I.
Let us not forget that Revell, not too long ago, had a similar problem with their Nazi Flying Saucer kit...
-
Oh good, more politically correct nonsense. Just what we all need right now. I'm guessing the German Peace Society didn't have anything better to do...
-
9
-
-
The Weather,
in Chat
About 20 degrees here in the part of the UK I'm in.
Wasn't much warmer at the weekend but very humid. Caused arthritic inflammation in my right foot, and left knee that's going to take a while to shift!
-
Quote
if you succumb to the fear-mongering, you'll be the cause of a shortage yourself
Amen to that. Don't go selfishly panic buying.
As for Andy Klein...
I like some of his build videos, but...
He was pretty much claiming the sky was falling in when the hassle over what is and isn't aimed at children on YouTube started, to my knowledge nothing came of that little drama...
When the US Shelter In Place orders started being issued, he stated on video, on YouTube, that he was still opening his shop. Which meant he'd be travelling to/from his home/shop whilst a Shelter In Place order was in effect where he is in the US (Arizona?). When how selfish his planned actions were was pointed out to him, he quickly retracted the video, presumably reshot or edited it, and uploaded a new video, almost the same, but omitting the fact that he was opening his shop up still.
I wouldn't take anything he says as even remotely gospel. Especially as he's a shop owner who, appears to get freebies and early releases from Tamiya, stocks Tamiya, and is probably trying to drum up business for himself.
47 minutes ago, PatW said:Our local Hobbycraft (Milton Keynes) had a few paints but stacks of kits, mostly over priced!
I recall reading a while back that Hobbycraft were scaling back on their model stuff, including Tamiya paints. Can't recall where I read it or what the source was though, but looking on their website it seems rather bereft of Tamiya paints.
Edited to clarify wording.
-
1
-
-
Hey all
One of the projects I've started recently has balsa wood on it (and will get some more attached to it). I'm wondering how best to go about painting some of it though. For the most part I believe I can just slap black/dark coloured paint on and drybrush it.
However there are going to be some parts, made from thin sheet balsa that I want to use the wood grain to my advantage, to achieve a more grey/worn/weathered wood look, although the grain seems to be a little indistinct.
Can I get away with airbrushing paint onto balsa wood or should I use a hairy stick? Should I thin the paint to be more like an ink wash?
Anyone here with experience with working with balsa wood able to offer some advice on this?
Thanks in advance.
-
1
-
-
Ink didn't cost as much as you may think, my HP printer is about 10 years old, and uses different cartridges to most of their newer printers. Plus I buy them from a company online that makes "compatible" cartridges at dirt cheap prices. I started with a half full set of black/CMY, ran out half way through, and only had to buy one new set of black/CMY to finish the print run, at a cost of...
...£16.
-
3
-
Which Scale do you model?
in Chat
Posted · Edited by RobL
1/72 for military jets or large prop aircraft like the Douglas C-47 Skytrain.
1/48 for anything prop based up to the size of a DH Mosquito.
1/144 for big subjects like the Avro Vulcan.
1/35 for tanks (although I've only done one).
Whatever scale Sc-Fi and tabletop wargaming models are in, although the less room they take up the better.
There are exceptions to the rule, for example I wouldn't do a 1/72 B-52. That'd have to be 1/144 at least.