RobL

If we're talking same age and ability as when Lauda and Regazzoni were racing, I think both would disagree with you. As an F1, and motorsports in general, fan/anorak, for some 30+ years I certainly disagree with you. You can put any half decent open wheel car driver, who hasn't sat around doing nothing for a couple of years, in today's F1 cars and they will do well, particularly when you put them in the top cars. The last race at Sakhir with Russell in the Mercedes proved that (same driver, better car, night and day). Even Schumacher somewhat proved that point when he came out of retirement in 2010 after 4 years away from F1. However, having watched some "recently "retired"" drivers actually do some historic racing, it's safe to say the opposite is not true - being good in modern F1 does not necessarily translate to being good in historic F1 or any other motorsport - Alonso has proven that at Indy, three times! Today's cars, which are hugely reliant on aero, are just easier to drive fast than cars of "yesteryear" that had less aero, relied more on mechanical grip, which often was lacking, were a lot less safe, and had engines/drivetrains that made cars absolute animals. The cars with a BMW engine between 1983 and 1986, including Piquet's Brabham, for example, towards the end of Lauda's career, had 1400 horsepower, give or take 50, available to them for quali, about 900 or so in the race, and drivers talked of wheelspin in 4th gear!! And that was a 1.5 litre turbo inline 4 pot, not even a turbo 6 pot hybrid like today's engines, of which only a handful just get over the 1000hp line (Mercedes reportedly get 1022hp apparently) in "party mode"! The 70s and 80s in particular are littered with examples of difficult to drive, often race/championship winning, cars that modern F1 drivers would not just simply be able to "jump into" and do as well as drivers of those eras, for one thing they're all too used to racing with modern F1 cars. I recall Hamilton, the current "GOAT", drove a historic F1 car not so long ago (although I forget which one it was) for a video piece for Sky or some other broadcaster, and stated that he was scared witless, and he wasn't even driving at race/quali pace... There's a reason modern F1 cars are mostly like watching Scalextric... Cue all the fanboys...

Going to add that I keep getting the 500 error. And by the way, I haven't ordered decals, and I don't watch Antiques Roadshow...

Gentlemen, it says what it is below the picture... Nah, twice was enough.

On the 2nd day of Xmas Airfix "gave" to me... ...an opportunity to sign up to their spam and win £50 of Airfix products...

I don't even bother priming. It's just another layer that will potentially clog details. I just put down a black or grey undercoat using normal paint (usually Tamiya acrylic funnily enough) and go from there. Never had a problem since I stopped priming, and the paint on models looks no worse, especially as I was using Vallejo polyurethane primers. Also makes it easier to strip back...

On the first day of Xmas Airfix gave to me... ...a video by some woman called Sally telling me what Airfix think I should buy... Amen. It's not even like they will have struggled much during the pandemic, because by all accounts sales of model kits and other hobby related stuff have gone through the roof with everyone staying at home!!

Second for white tack. Blu tack usually leaves a mark on a wall, so I'm pretty sure it will do the same on your model.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but everything I've read indicates that no-one produces an actual A-10C in 1/72? They're all A-10A's and are missing many of the lumps/bumps (and stuff like LASTE) and the cockpit is always that of an A (i.e, no LCD screens), including Italeri's effort (which is what this kit is).

Yes, very 2001. I read the first two books some 25 or so years ago, and have seen the two films. The 2nd film creeps me out, because of the scene with Dave and his ma... Really would love to see the 3rd and 4th books made into films, but no-one seems interested in doing so. Strangely the book was written concurrently with the film and was published after the film was released! Apparently the film is actually based on earlier short stories by Clarke.

Seems to be a lot of celebrities "coming out" recently. Rod Stewart does model railways. Henry Cavill apparently paints Games Workshop miniatures. Not surprised Al Murray builds WW2 stuff...

I once traced my family tree... ...turns out I'm related to William The Conqueror, Julius Caesar and God.

So, I had a go today at getting a process established for doing the roofs... A 50/50 mix of Apple Barrel's Too Blue and Black didn't work. It was far too dark a colour, in fact it didn't seem to matter how little black I put in, it was still darker than I wanted. So, I decided to go with pure Too Blue. I used a Citadel Large Drybrush, put a bit of paint on the end of it, then smeared it all over the roof of the woodstore and the outhouse using drybrushing motions. I did this because drybrushing it on as you would normally drybrush it on wasn't working for me, it was too dark and would have taken hours to build up the colour. I then applied a Citadel Nuln Oil wash, and then drybrushed again with the AB Too Blue. I then watered down and applied Citadel Dark Reaper and The Fang to "random" tiles to break it up a bit. Then did 2 drybrushed highlights for the edges of Vallejo Game Color Cold Grey and Citadel Fenrisian Grey. This is the result of all that - I'm quite happy with how that turned out on the roofs. No so happy with the wood on the outhouse and the woodstore, as the balsa wood doesn't give me any sort of discernable grain, and I'm not good enough to fake it either, but hey ho, they are what they are. Not sure how I'm going to apply that process to the main roof, I feel I will need to mask it off whatever I do, and I also feel I would be better applying at least the black via airbrush. I'm leaning towards also applying the first coat of Too Blue by airbrush as well, if only to save time...

I'm very close to getting this finished. Mostly only the roofs to paint and some of the small details, the base and then some tidying up with something that can't be applied until I've finished the painting. Made some more progress on this today though. Painted the timber framing with Citadel Dryad Bark, "cutting it in" against the walls was the most non-trivial painting I've ever done! I also blacked out the windows ready for a drybrush with probably Vallejo Game Color Gunmetal. There are a couple of spots I need to tidy up where I went over with the black on to the walls though... Photos - The paint on the walls is rather strange. At times it looks orange, but at other times, and to my camera, it's not so orange!?! I have purchased some paint for the roofs, just need to do a test on the woodstore/outhouse roof to see how it looks. The paint I've bought is Apple Barrel Too Blue, and Black, and I'll mix the two 50/50 as I've seen an example on the web that indicates that's what I'm looking for in terms of how I want to roofs to look. I will be staining the timber framing with Citadel Nuln Oil Shade, then giving it a dryrbush with Citadel Stormvermin Fur and Celestra Grey, but I am not confident of my pot of Nuln Oil being up to the job - I think that between today and the summer I managed to get some water in it, so I may have to order another pot in a few weeks when I put in an order for some other GW paints I need...

Or, don't post anything you're not prepared or willing to lose.

OK, below are some photos of painting progress so far. The walls were painted with Coat D'Arms Tanned Flesh and Bone mixed 50/50ish. Then I drybrushed over that with the Bone, and then again drybrushed over the top of that with Citadel Pallid Wych Flesh. The method I used for painting the stonework was to paint it Vallejo Game Color Cold Grey over a black undercoat. This was done with an airbrush. I then went and painted, with a hairy stick, "random" bricks with Citadel XV-88 and Celestra Grey. I then drybrushed all over with Citadel Karak Stone using a Citadel Large Drybrush. I then overcoated all the stonework in Tamiya Semi Gloss clear. Then I applied a dark clay wash made by a well known scale modeller. I'll use the same method when I paint the stone corner wall that I'll be adding to the base. The woodstore and the outhouse wood has been painted for a while, although I was looking for a more grey looking wood and I've gone a bit more towards the brown side, so I feel I need to do a light drybrush with a grey again, probably Vallejo Game Color Cold Grey. The roof on the woodstore is not finished, that's just my test work for the blue slate, none of which was satisfactory... Unfortunately the wood on the outhouse has white styrene behind it (should have use black! Doh!), and you can see it shows through. I need to somehow get in there with a brush and paint it black... Looks better on camera than I thought it would. Although with the mk1 eyeball this is best viewed from about 2ft away, because there are some not very nice bits here and there unfortunately, some of which I can disguise but some I can't unless I start again, fix them with filler and/or sanding, and repaint. The walls also look slightly more orange to the mk1 eyeball, at least under my "daylight" lighting tonight! Photos, it looks a bit wonky but that's mostly down to my camera inadvertently being at an angle and the fact it's not sitting on a flat hard surface under my black background -

Same here. A check with isup.me shows postimage.org is down for everyone. I was having problems getting images uploaded to postimage anyway this past couple of months so I switched to imgbb.com. Not had a problem with them so far, and actually it seems to work better, apart from having to edit the links before posting to remove some of their HTML code.

It's terrible how we treat our heritage in this country!

So, been a while since I did anything on this, so I made a bit of a push to get it to the "ready to paint stage". There are some gaps, but I haves plans for sorting those out after painting. I added some details, in the form of a sign, and 3 wolf head ornaments, 1 on each corner at the front, and 1 on the front bay window. I also finished the chimney off. The witches hat tower roof is also finished, to a point, I intend to cap it with a lead cone, but I'm waiting on lead sheet to arrive before I even size that up. I tried with a paper cone the other day as a test, but didn't get good results so I'm hoping the lead works better, might have helped had I tiled a bit further up but the returns were diminishing so I gave up... Photos - Overall shot of the front - The sign, you'll have to take my word for it but the wooden bar is attached via a magnet in the wall, and the chains of the sign are attached via a magnet also, thus if it gets broken off, it won't break completely. I also realise it's hanging a bit low, but it's not big enough to hang from the bottom of the top level, so I may move it up - One of the two corner details, attached to the timber framing on the top level - A shield, it's just white tacked on as it will get painted separately - Finished chimney - I also added Soffit to either end of the Inn, to a) hide some crimes I committed when attaching the roof and b) for a slightly better look -

99% Isopropyl Alcohol. The stuff everyone was using to make hand sanitiser not long back... Far cheaper by volume, and probably just as effective, plus totally safe. Give the model a soak for a while then scrub away.

I want to like The Mandolorian, but I can't get past the cutsey kidsy Disney Baby Yoda, it's almost as bad a Jar Jar Binks. It was all looking great until they introduced that in the first episode. And now, Boba Fett has miraculously come back from the Sarlacc Pit!?! Say whaaat!

Not recently really. Especially since I haven't built or finished an aircraft model since August. I come on here a few times a day, but don't really spend much time looking at stuff, just seeing if there's anything interesting in chat, checking things I'm notified about or posting photos of my latest efforts. As I'm painting tabletop game figures at the moment I find little to read/look at on Britmodeller. Sorry.

Thanks guys. To be honest I gave up and just bought another bottle. I'm being careful now to not put the top back on if I have CA anywhere on the lid area, and to not screw the lid on fully. I'm only giving it a couple of turns, then periodically undoing it to make sure it doesn't set...

Thanks guys, I finished another one today. Still 5 adventurers to paint and 1 still to buy... This is the original Warhammer Quest Witch Hunter model by Games Workshop, I was trying for a Witchfinder General/Van Helsing look, and went with a "grey stone" base this time...

Thanks. One more finished, about about 5 more to go, plus two to buy at some point - This one is a High Elf Shadow Warrior, a replacement/alternative for the supplemental box set Elf Ranger, based on the iOS/Android/PC video game. It's a Games Workshop model.

Hey all I've been working on a project for replacing the plastic models you got in the core box of the 1995 release of Games Workshop's Warhammer Quest tabletop/board game. Thought I'd share my results so far here. I like the aesthetic that the adventurers in the iOs/Android/PC video game have, they're based on the models from the final version of Warhammer Fantasy Battles, before GW killed it and brought out Age of Sigmar, so I've tried to make my adventurer models look as close as I can to that. I'm not the greatest figure painter in the world, nor would I ever win a Golden Daemon competition (I don't/can't do eyes for example), but here's what I've got so far (2 of these were posted in another thread here) - Replacement Barbarian (a kitbash of GW parts) - Replacement Elf (a Reaper Miniatures figure) - Replacement Dwarf (another GW parts kitbash) - Replacement Wizard (another Reaper Miniatures figure) - Warrior Priest(ess), replacement for the supplemental box set figure, (a figure by Hasslefree Miniatures), yes she is meant to look like she's wearing lipstick - More to come, I keep a plog here - https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/791027.page