RobL
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Posts posted by RobL
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On 11/03/2021 at 22:44, Six97s said:
I received a package from Canada today that was posted in January. Still waiting for something from the US that was posted three weeks ago.
I ordered something recently from an eBay seller in the US, was quoted a date of end of March to end of April (so likely up to => 6 weeks from ordering), and was expecting customs charges. Turned up about 2 weeks after ordering, and I didn't get charged on it. Wasn't using eBay's Global Shipping Programme either, had a DHL marked label, mentioning something about customs, on it and was delivered to my door by Royal Mail.
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@Wm Blecky
Do you understand just how many customers Hannants have globally and just how few staff they have? They probably only just manage during a normal year. Now they've got to cope with a massive amount of extra people like yourself, who are sitting on their backsides assembling and painting model kits, whilst every one else, especially in the UK, is trying to deal with restrictions on what can and cannot be done and trying to scrape by.
And no, we in the UK haven't had a year, because of the government, and Brexit. Whilst trying not to be political it's been a clusterbomb and the pandemic isn't over. Things keep on changing here in the UK, as it has the rest of the world over, and we haven't done well with Covid, unlike most countries in the Far East and Oceania. Perhaps Canada has done better...
It's actually lucky the likes of Hannants haven't gone under, many businesses in the UK have already.
So, as you've contacted them within 7 days of receipt of the item via email, you have proof of doing so, so you should be good for the "7 days clause". So by all means prod them once in a while, but sit tight, be a little more patient and understanding, and let Hannants staff get around to dealing with you.
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Yeah, it's a shame CCTV isn't like you see on TV shows.
Whilst it can be helpful after an event, unfortunately it's not really there to catch people, it's mostly meant to deter people. Which it obviously doesn't, but people have been led down the path of believing it does and thus have a false sense of security, and like yourself, get frustrated when it doesn't help in situations like yours.
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Well, this is now finished and posted in the RFI sub-forum.
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Ladies and gentlemen, welcome, to The White Wolf Inn!
Some close ups of a few of the details -The shield isn't glued on, just held by white tac, just because.
Dunny the Drunken Dwarf. A Reaper Bones miniature.
The sign.
Work in progress thread here -Build a Warhammer Fantasy Tavern he said, it'll be quick and easy he said...
It's taken 9 months on and off for me to build and paint this, due to life issues and on and off enthusiasm. In reality I've only done about 14 days work on it.
As a result of it taking so long there's a variation in quality of my workmanship and there's a whole host of things that are not very good about this, although I've photographed it sympathetically so you can't really tell where most of the problem areas are. It looks OK from 2-3 feet away but as you start to get closer and start looking you can see where I've done some things poorly.
Not bad though considering I've never done a semi-display piece of scenery, most (if not all) of the scenery I've ever done has been for 40k and amounts to cutting out very basic shapes from foamcard and slapping a very basic paint coat on them!
One thing I would do differently if I were to do this again is use black styrene sheet instead of white. There are areas where if you look you can see white, where you shouldn't be able to! Fortunately you can't see that in the photos above!
I also wish I could take better photos but I don't have the facilities or equipment...
Anyway, thanks for looking.
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1 hour ago, Monty Python said:
air in the cup causing the paint to bubble up
You have a blockage of some sort forward of the air cup, or, as bmwh548 stated, the front end isn't quite on tight enough.
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RIP
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RIP
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Nice. Oberth class mashed with a Constitution class.
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19 hours ago, gavingav said:
looks like a nice set but where do i buy a kit from .
My thoughts exactly when I saw this. Those kits were produced at the turn of the century. Doubt many people have got them so this seems like quite a random release. I know Babylon 5 has recently had a "remastered" release on HBO though, so maybe there's a re-release of the kits we don't know about on the cards.
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Hey all
Just wondering what material the engine cowls of the Handley Page Hampden were made from, the bit right at the front?
Thanks in advance.
Image as reference -
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I did indeed start this last year and it does indeed feel like I've been doing it for a couple of years, when you look at what I've done though I've only done a couple of months (maybe even less) of work on it. I posted progress of this originally on another, more wargaming oriented, forum at the start of June - https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/788962.page#10893082
Thanks for the advice on the balsa wood. There's lots of things I'm not happy with on this but I'm leaving them as they are, otherwise I'll be forever going back and rectifying things, and some just can't be rectified.
I'm not far from getting this over the line though, so who knows, maybe this time next year I'll be posting a final reveal!
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5 hours ago, WhichOnesPink said:
Hi,
No one seems to have Mr Surfacer 1500 in stock and not much else of the range.
Has it been discontinued or is it an effect of the sunlit uplands of Brexit?
Ideas?
All the best,
Pink.
Shine on...
Probably more to do with the pandemic than Brexit.
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Can't say I've had many, if any, problems recently with Royal Fail. I order stuff on ebay fairly regularly, and have recently also ordered directly from a company in Southend called Wayland Games - that order turned up next day or at least no more than 2 days after it was ordered!
And I'm in north Essex (kind of, can never work out if I'm mid or north), not far from Chelmsford that has apparently been hit by problems at Royal Mail.
But then I'm patient.
I have noticed eBay's guestimates going up a little though. As a seller on eBay I can tell you we don't set those delivery dates, unless that's a feature for a proper business account on eBay (my account isn't one of those), so I assume they come from eBay's info/guesswork.
You also need to be aware, if you aren't already, that some Royal Mail services, even if they have a "tracking number" don't actually provide any tracking information when an item is on route, just when it's delivered.
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11 minutes ago, Ted said:
The stone walls are very realistic.
Will you use this for wargaming?
No, I don't play any that I'd use it in and even though I've made it come apart in various places, because I don't drive, transporting it would still be awkward. Although it is kind of halfway between a display piece and a piece of scenery so it could be used in wargaming.
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More progress on this today.
Drybrushed the base, you can actually see there are cobbles on the base now! Those were achieved using a Green Stuff World rolling pin and some effort to imprint it on the XPS sheet that is the base. The "earth" is Citadel Agrellan Earth (or Agrellan Badland, I forget which). Took almost a whole pot of it...
Citadel Nuln Oil (two coats) was applied to the timber framing on the 2nd floor and that was then drybrushed with Citadel Celestra Grey (although I feel I overdid it a little, might put another layer of Nuln Oil over it, it's already had one over it making 3 layers of Nuln Oil in total so far). I drybrushed the "leading" on the windows with Citadel Leadbelcher and Citadel Stormhost Silver.
Stuck the stone wall down and filled the gap at the base with what was left of the pot of Citadel Agrellan... That'll get a Citadel Agrax Earthshade wash to tie it into the base.
And that's essentially the first two floors done. Just need to add the barrels to the base (after I finish painting them) and make more of a wood pile to go in the wood store round the back. I also have an idea for a little more detailing on the base itself, on the cobbles, just to break up the mass of "terracotta".
Main colour down on the main roofs (yes the back roofs got the same treatment), although I have some white spots in the gaps it seems...
Still lots of little things to do, but at least I'm getting there...-
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Nearly 1hr long video by The Tank Museum at Bovington featuring Chris Barrie, and about 2 minutes of Al Murray.
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I've built a few Revell kits "in my time", and yes they are a bit hit and miss.
Their best kit, that I've built, is the 1/72 Tornado, it's great, but it isn't perfect, certainly not on a Tamiya level. Their Mk41 Sea King is another great kit.
Then they have kits like the 1/48 Huey "Hog". Terrible kit from the 60s that Revell have no business even selling in today's market - yet they do and people must buy it!
I'd say that most Revell kits are a good starting point, something to use to practice on, and something to develop your modelling skills with - if you just want to assemble stuff buy a Tamiya kit or even a Bandai kit, or go play with Lego.
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Hey all
Been working on this since the end of last year. It's a refurb/conversion of an old plastic Citadel Space Marine Tank. See the build thread here for details - https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/793972.page
Note - I don't usually do armor. This is only the 2nd tank (in 25+ years) I've attempted to do "properly".
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Thanks for looking.
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1 hour ago, 3DStewart said:
I assume this was a special case. Armies that don't pay their soldiers tend to disappear.
1 hour ago, malpaso said:I think the main benefit of service in the Roman army came at the end of your time (20 plus years) with a large payment or land grant. Also you would become a Citizen if not already, this was not the status of most Roman people.
Perhaps if Tommius Atkinsius didn’t think he’d get through to his long service award he might well burn through his salary.
Actually I wouldn't be surprised if this wasn't a special case. Many, some 1500 or so years later, seem to have a rather romanticised view of the Roman Empire.
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Hey all
I have on the way a "model kit", this to be precise -
As we can see, there are very few panel lines, and most are on the tail section. Also as we can see the way such models are generally painted is using the edge highlighting technique.
Now, I don't want to paint mine quite like the above example, mostly because I'm not that good at the edge highlighting technique around panel lines. That leaves me with a bit of a dilemma - I would want to panel line shade the rear portion of the model where there are panel lines, and only edge highlight the sharp angular external edges, for example those around the front area.
Problem is that means that in order to do dark panel line shading (white or light panel line shading would just look all manner of wrong, wouldn't it?) I can't paint it black, but I also don't want it to look grey.
So, two things occur to me - how do I paint it black whilst not using black, but also how do I make the not-black light enough that it's not grey but will still show a black panel line wash!?
Would appreciate some thoughts and tips on this.
Thanks in advance.
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Good luck to you.
I've looked at turning my hobby into a living also, and come to the conclusion that, especially as I live in the UK, it's not worth the risk vs effort unless you are a) very good at making the models, b) already "in the "industry" in some form", and most importantly c) you have significant money stashed away so that you are already comfortably well off and don't really need to worry if it all goes pear shaped (in which case why bother in the first place?!)...
I think the days of a prolific amount of people being able to do physical model making as a profession, are long gone and what "market" there is left is saturated already with youtubers and whatnot trying to make a living out of models...
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CRY HAVOC AND LET SLIP THE DOGS OF WAR! RIP
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Hey all
Had a bit of a problem with my H&S Ultra the other day, had paint coming out the back end in the trigger area. I suspect the needle packing seal is the culprit. However, I'm having a problem getting the retaining screw that holds the seal unscrewed. I can't even see it in the body of the airbrush to get a screwdriver in at the right angle.
Short of buying H&S's special tool, which is in very short supply at the moment, does anyone here have any tips on how to get the seal and bushing unscrewed?
Thanks in advance.
EDIT - please disregard. I managed to solve this. I couldn't see the retaining screw because it was caked in dried dark paint. Once I got a q-tip down the body and cleaned that all off I could see the orientation of the notch and managed to get my screwdriver, with a bit of help from some pliers for some extra torque, to undo the retaining screw. Cleaned it up and checked the packing seal (which seems OK!), screwed it all back up and now my H&S Ultra appears to be working fine again, at least with water...
New build Modelling to cease for me...
in Chat
Posted · Edited by RobL
I'm kind of in the same boat. It's either I don't build something. Or I put up a new shelf, or hang it from my ceiling, the ceiling doesn't realistically have much room left and putting up a shelf requires buying one and even then I only have room for 2 or so new shelves (I use those floating ones) in the box room I inhabit, probably.
Luckily I'm not building scale model kits at the moment (for various reasons), and focusing on my Games Workshop figures and vehicles part of the hobby. I can, in theory (i.e. subject to having boxes and packing material), pack those away ready for gaming later in the year.