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ruth

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Everything posted by ruth

  1. Hallo This is my way to get a little distance from modelling aircarft. This famous truck is my first of many. The AAA I also did. In a few days I show you this truck too! Happy modelling
  2. Hallo again Here is one Sopwith Dolphin in 48. Enjoy the photos. Happy modelling
  3. Hallo again This Salmson I built some time ago. Enjoy the photos! Happy modelling
  4. Hallo again This is my Fokker E IV. In scale 1/32 from WNW. Happy modelling
  5. Hallo again Enjoy the photos! Happy modelling
  6. Hallo again This kit is scale 32. Not easy! Happy modelling
  7. Hallo Here are some more pictures.
  8. Hallo Some pictures are gone! So you get better ones: Happy modelling
  9. Hello, Robin-42 No farther references do I have, just the instruction from WNW. Happy modelling
  10. Hallo Kushan_Farsight All sprayed. My imagination according to the replica of the Taube. Scale is 32. Happy modelling
  11. Hallo again Now I finished my Stahltaube from WNW. Actually it was not an easy kit. My first small fault was a front bulkhead, which was misaligned. Here I had to do some restoration work at the front part of the fuselage. Well, after this my next challenge was the filling process. I usually worked with Surfacer. Here, it did not work at all. So I went on with super glue, as my husband told me to try. This worked perfect. So, after all this, the paint job was next. Here I was in the wonderful situation, to have close examined a replica of the Etrich Taube, some years ago. So I could adapt
  12. Hallo again After a long break in the forum, here what I did: I finished the model. To build up the main plane, with all the struts, and I rigged afterwards the entire static rigging. No control cables at all! The most important tiny point is to watch out carefully, that no eyelet sticks to far in the hole for the main tail booms. This occurred at my husband’s model! Well, the tail booms mounted and all goes quite fast. Assembling all the parts. Think first, how to proceed and then do it. As you see: The control cables where the very last, expect the canon and windshield an
  13. Hallo again Now all flying surfaces got their first paint treatment. Pre shading of ribs. Due to the surface finish color, I used a brown for the underside and black to the top surface. The masking was a task of entire patience. The spraying process was quickly done. The final colors also. After this again a major task of patience. All metal plates for the wing support plates and struts had to get their black finish. Again masking all over. The biggest area to spray was the walk way on the top surface of the underwing. Now you see the final result. I will do the decals and eyele
  14. Hallo again Now I did all the woodwork on the struts and propeller and fuselage booms. The oil I used the same way as I did before on the front fuselage. So, after carefully doing it and waiting approximately for one week I could do some GX 112, clear gloss varnish. Painting and spraying followed. It was lots of work, just to add: All necessary drilling for eyelets at the boom was before using oil, also the complete dry fit of elevator and rudder. Stencils at the struts I added. For the boom: I did not use the decals for bandage, I sprayed it. Just to prevent loosening it during asse
  15. Hallo again Actually, I took a break during the holydays. What I have to tell you: The completion of the fuselage is actually straightforward. Nothing special to add. Before adding the gear, I made eyelets for all static rigging points on the fuselage. They are self-made, and it is really easy to do it. After application of all decals and stencils I added the gear. And rigged it right afterwards. The next step is analyzing the static rigging of the whole a/c. To understand the different planes of rigging. At the fuselage:
  16. Hallo again Now I sprayed and painted many small parts. All interior, engine as well as the external parts necessary to finish the main fuselage completely. The engine has two main colors. Aluminum and copper. Here I used C8, Alclad copper, and Alclad steel. I did not use the primer, since C8 from Mr. Hobby does not need it at all. Some other colors like black and brass, white I painted or brushed. The engine I assembled. The installation I will do with the other assembly parts after decaling.
  17. Hallo again Now after a short break of a few days I continued the front fuselage of my Fe2b. Decaling and assembling and internal rigging were my goals. I achieved them all quite easily, due to the excellent quality of WNW kit and my experience. The rigging was a brisk thing, but I drilled with a 0.2mm drill with pitot shaft from Tamiya. This drill is a most important tool. The monofill from Modelkasten in Japan, 0.6 = 0.13mm. Happy modelling
  18. Hallo again As you may see, I painted all my prepared wooden parts and sprayed them with clear varnish C 46. The detail work as a big amount, specially the masking for the dashboard. The description in the instruction is fairly good and pleasant to work with. Guessing is at minimum. The harness from HGW is assembled and got a gloss varnish. Weathering and oil is ahead. Assembling the fuselage and decaling the dashboard is ahead. Happy modelling
  19. Hallo again This is my Jake E13A1. The kit was Nichimo. One of our first Japanese aircraft. We had only Japanese literature for this model. Since I learn Japanese for some years, our teacher translated me some of the text to the photos and to the drawings. The kit was not easy, since of a lack of detail. So I obscured to entire cockpit with canvas and some cleaning tools for the ground crew. The engine was also a horror, and I took some spare engine from resin. I think Vector. Happy modelling
  20. Hallo again My colors are artists oil paints. Without dilution. As I mentioned above, the grain you get only with a sponge, with a brush it is not in scale! (My opinion) The models you see in my post, are my husbands one. This two are the very first with this technique. There is for this a/c with such a short lifetime, no weathering neccessary. Panel lines my have some distance, a shade may ocure, or some dirt. Albatros a/c are different from building as any other a/c. In WW1 are many different ways in production, and each a/c has a different situation. So you may see, wh
  21. Hallo again My intention is to show the wood grain in scale. I did not get this result by brush. The distance of the fine lines was too big. Therefore I changed to the sponge. You may see the photos. There are two WNW a/c from my husband. And two actual a/c in the workshop. The Albatros without clear vanish and the sailing plane with a dark clear vanish. Happy modeling
  22. The Sufa will come soon on the RFI.
  23. Hallo again This time I started actual building my model. I had the idea to get on with real wood. In the way as I already experienced it after a long fight with very expensive aftermarket products. My goal is to achieve a very high quality of modeling with not expensive material. Just to buy it in a paint or color shop. You will see all the paint I used. To tell it clearly, this idea is from the WingNutWings website. However, the procedure is a mess. Everything what is not used promptly has to leave the workbench. Get the way clear for cleaning your hands afterward! So let
  24. Hallo again To answer your questions: · WIP for this: No. The model I built approx.. 8 years ago · Are the 600 gal tanks used a lot Yes. In the IAF they are common! Happy modelling
  25. This is the third F-16, the F-16 D (Barak). I built the F-16 D Block 40 "Barak 2" No. 687 from the Scorpion Squadron. The kit in 1/48 is from Kinetik. Additional parts are from Aires (cockpit, wheel bay and exhaust), Dr. Pepper (Sidewinder), Isracast (fuel tank 600 gallons) and Eduard (masks and etched parts and the ladder). External stores are: Station 1/9: 2 AIM 9 L Sidewinder Station 2/8: 2 Python 4 Station 3/7: 2 JADAM (GBU-31) Station 4/6: 2 Fuel tank 600 Gallons Station 5: 1 Fuel tank 300 Gallons The original is fro
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