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Geoff Bizley

Members
  • Content Count

    15
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About Geoff Bizley

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 09/01/1949

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Royal Wootton Bassett
  • Interests
    Allied AFVs, 1/350 allied Warships.
  1. Welcome to the club. This happens to me at least once on every model I make these days. My carpet monster must be so well fed I should probably put it on a diet!
  2. My default setting would be Colourcoats NARN 22. You could try Humbrol 127 which is a touch darker and bluer than 147 and is also available as an acrylic. Be warned however, These Humbrol paints need a lot of stirring to get the consistent light Blue grey which is probably what you are looking for. I break up the sludge with a wooden coffee stirrer and then use a master tools electric stirrer. This seems to work. Regarding the deck colour, you are right. Humbrol No 9 is Gloss and is totally the wrong colour. I have in the past got good results from Humbrol 148 (Radome tan) + 10% 110 (Wood) Hope this helps
  3. Just don't fix them in place. Then you can replace them when you've saved up the money for a set from Shapeways. By the way, the barrels of the Shapeways set are produced individually with the "business end" bored out and can be separately elevated if you so wish. They really are a worthwhile upgrade.
  4. Thanks Jamie. I use a DSLR so it sounds like Village Photos is the one for me.
  5. I am also looking for a photo sharing website so that I can post pickies of my feeble efforts. Could I enquire what sites you other guys use and how do you rate them?
  6. After a long delay for health reasons, I am just about to try adding my own Funnel platforms. Wish me luck.
  7. I'm very pleased for you. Life can be difficult with something like that keeping you in limbo so to speak.
  8. That's exactly what I did using UPS projectors from WEM with scratch built splinter shields. My point was, to illustrate the Pacific bias. I actually quite like doing conversions like this but changing a KGV or Warspite into (for instance) H.M.S revenge would be betond my capabilities.
  9. I second that! it annoys me that Tamiya, for instance, only produce a KGV in her very late war configuration when she was in the Pacific and totally ignore her as of May 1941 when she took part in the sinking of the Bismark, probably her most famous action. I believe that the major reason none of them produce a large scale Royal Sovereign class is that they did not play any significant part in the Pacific war. All this makes me more pleased that Trumpeter have issued Exeter in River Plate condition first rather than the Java sea version.
  10. Jamie. I agree with you about the poor job Trumpy have made of the funnels and have considered replacing the raised detail with thin copper wire. I am actually getting on very well with the P.E. I usually find kit supplied P.E either too fragile or too brittle so that attempts to bend it wind up breaking it but not so with this kit. Trumpy seem to have got the gauge of the metal and the degree of tempering just right. It is far nicer to work with than most I have tried.
  11. I am finally back among the living and ready to join the fray again. A search of the internet showed that an obscure company called Sovereign hobbies (joke) sell a PE fret for the 350 scale Walrus that includes the interwing struts. It should therefore be possible to attach the lower wings alongside the fuselage then attach the upper wings to them using these struts. I won't be trying this just yet since the Walrus is not a time critical item and can be added after the main build is finished but it sounds like a tempting idea
  12. Good scheme. I will think about a way to do this as soon as the pain in my ear allows me to think at all! Being 69 years old with shaking hands I also suffer with P.E but the more I use it the easier it seems to get. I find glueing it on with PVA helps since it gives time to reposition before it sets.
  13. Cutting off the wings is not my major problem, it's reattaching them. In 1/350 scale the contact area would be miniscule and consequently very weak. I am currently suffering from an inner ear infection which is keeping me away from the modelling bench but is also giving me time to think about some hidden form of re-enforcement. I will let you know if I come up with anything. Further on the Walrus subject, I don't believe the colour suggested is correct. Looking at the top down 'photos on this thread the upper surfaces look very pale and certainly not the dark green proposed. Any ideas anyone?
  14. Thanks for the enlarged overhead view. It has clarified quite a few points for me. One relatively minor whinge re the kit is the fact that the kit Walruses (Walri?) are depicted with the wings deployed. I doubt my ability to modify them to what would be their normal (folded) cruising position so it seems I will be stuck with leaving them off completely depicting the situation after Graf Spee had been sighted and the planes ditched but before the shells started to fly.
  15. Got my Exeter between Christmas and new year and have been an avid follower of this thread ever since. I have just (yesterday) received my replacement main armament set from Shapeways and, having already de-waxed them and applied a light coat of Tamiya primer, I cannot sing their praises too highly. The surface detail is superb and vastly superior to those supplied with the kit. Unfortunately, I had already painted my bridge deck in AP507A (colourcoats of course) since this was indicated by Trumpeter's colour guide and I will now have to re-paint it Corticene which leads me to ask , would the deck of the after steering position (Part B15) similarly be Corticene or would this be AP507A as shown by the colour guide? Geoff Bizley
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