dov

Perfect! My favorite a/c. Congratulation!

In doubt, or if it is too difficult use a FOD! Make it by yourself?

Well: I built lots of propeller aircraft from Zukei Mura, Tamiya, Trumpeter, Eduard and others in 1/32 scale. So the ZM kits are far-out better than Tamiya. More detail. The engines and other details are from soft plastic. Care has to be taken on instructions. I improved some of them. Trumpeter is not so bad too. Eduard is somehow basic. Revell is a copy and paste company, you never knows what the origin of the kit is. Please do not get lost in aftermarket. I think it is another way to build the same model twice and improve it by yourself! In jets I have no clue at all in present days. So, happy modelling

Oh Blimpyboy, here I can add a thought. Have you ever been up to the north of Hokaido? To Wakkanai? To Kafuka? Have you ever seen the view to the north over the sea? And to the opposite have you ever been to Kagoshima? If you stay there for 24 hours on approx.. the same date you will find the sky in different colors, which are amazing. So, this leads me to the thought, people just tried to make the paintings matching with the sky. The sky over Japan has so many different tones of color, more than anywhere else. Happy modelling

From Krzystof W. Wolowski Bf 109 Late versions Camouflage & markings MMP-Book Messerschmitt Bf-109K camouflage & marking JaPo And: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4xitrrBUDsYRjRzQkR2TFd3UTA/view Happy modelling

Hallo Here are some examples! Take a look and a grasp! About 10 years ago I was active on this matter. I used Gunze H colors. These colors caused problems with masking and distancing of masking. So I did not proceed any farther. Today with Gunze C colors I can handle any masking easily without any distortion of the sprayed surface. Now we go! Now I checked hundreds of original old photos of (Me) Bf-109 F/G/K and Fw-190 A. From literature the Me-262 is also mentioned. On most of the wings you see the faded outline with zigzag or overspray in the amount of 100mm. All the a/c restored and from museums too met this specification. On all restored a/c from this types I found the same. No matter if it was in Wiener Neustadt, Krakau, Duxford Airshow or anything else. The Fw-190 in Imperial war museum and the Fw-190 S from Hendon had this pattern. All a/c! This matter is no new one. I just read it and compared it with all the a/c I photographed all over. No story, no tale. A fact! Dear modeler, I will find a way ta achieve it for all my future models. Nice goal. Maybe you join in and we find together a proper way! Happy modelling P.S. All Spitfires I photographed in Duxford over mopre than a decade also have this faded outline!

Hallo The kit was on one side easy, on the other side frowzy. Look, the cockpit by itself is inaccurate to the outmost. The front section is a narrow tube with protection cushion just on the left side. Right side blanked out. The Revi is neglected, no position at all. (I lost mine during installation inside). The cockpit is open to the front, so when anything gets lost it is lost. The hand wheel for opening the canopy, oh the position is wrong. No chance to install it where it should be. And so on. All around the model you find ambuscade due to sloppy design. A nightmare. Oh, decals and stencils for the waste basket only! More information on my WIP. Happy modelling

Not to mix up the camouflage fir tree with the normal patterns. Only this normal patterns I am mentioning. Werdna, I have overseen your question. It is from a book which is a serious one from before 2000, which describes the F to K version. If you look carefully at original photos, so you can see the overspray or zigzag pattern as demarcation line. Happy modelling

Hallo This is not to mix up with sawtooth or Tannenbaum camouflage. It is on all 'straight' edges on outer surfaces you have a tiny sawtooth with an amplitude of 100m in reality. This is the point! To use masks with straight edges for this purpose is concerning to the drawing from the manufacturer never real! This would cause a hard precise edge. The separating line of top and bottom camouflage is also shown. 3rd picture, to look at please! Look at the right hand side of Punkt E and it shows you, that the separating line is on the upper side of the wing profile! It causes a good defilade for a 12 o’clock attack! Happy modelling

Hallo you all See this drawings! I would like to discuss with you the camouflage on German aircraft. Specially after 1941 to 1945. This time, the aircrafts had the cockpit painted in RLM 66. The camouflage on the outer surfaces, wings and fuselage and rudders should be in our focus. I found some drawings about the 109 G version. Without date. The same for the 262 even without date. What is interesting: The edges of the color of the wing between RLM 75 and 74 (valid for the RLM 80 range too) should have a 100mm zigzag pattern. That means, there is no straight exact line at all. Lacerated and zigzag. In a scale of 1/48 it means a 2mm width. First question: Are you aware of this? Second question, if yes, how do you achieve a proper result? Next theme: Stenciling on a aircraft with operational camouflage. I do not see on photos aircrafts like this a proper stenciling pattern. Most stencils are omitted. Exception fuel markings and electric markings. Well, I would like to know your findings and your handling with this matter. Happy modelling

How was Quintas to work with? Perfect model.

New challange! Very interesting! Continue! Tell us more about it: Where to buy? Made by yourself? How is the surfce? Did somerthing similar in 1/200 for Royal Navy flightdeck.

Congratulation!

It is an interesting absurd question. The question by itself let me think about whom you want to approach. Us modeler, the surveyor, or the people who cannot talk about their experience. We, who can talk, know nothing. Just guess. They, who surveyed, you maybe will find one. The others, who know are all gone! In philosophical terms from L. Wittgenstein: Things you do not know, you cannot talk about. Happy modelling

Hallo Well, actually there are lots of books around. Like from each major WW2 type. As a modeler and technician over decades, I got sometimes lost in contradictorily statements. So I switched to original manuals. Flight and engine manuals. As well as literature written by pilots who flew this aircraft. So also noted is Eric Brown. Many of these manuals are free to download! BMW 801 Handbuch FW-190 Handbuch Happy modelling

The camo is great! Congratulation!

Oh, these locations! I never will see them again now! Thank you! Happy modelling.

Hallo The camo and insignia and markings are done. Now I took a 6000 pad and cleanrd the surface from color edges. Next time exhaust, tabs and weathering! Happy modelling

Hello First to the book. Not available in EU territory at the moment. For the B.E. 2 or 12 look at the link: Happy modeling

Hallo This B.E. 12b, I failed to finish it. Because of the gluing process. The strut support plates I designed by myself. This are photo etched parts. A big kit producer processed them. On three sample kits I succeeded. Regarding the strut support plates: The idea and everything around it is simple, clear and easy to implement. There is only one tragic ending in the end. This is the bonding of the struts. You need super glue CA because it's metal. And that is exactly where the problem lies. I built two Dh 2 (1/48 and 1/32) and one B.E. 2c in 1/48. You find them on the forum anyway. I failed at the B.E.12b in 1/48. The fact is that the Roden kits are perhaps unsuitable for this due to inaccuracies, but I stopped afterwards. If you want to revive the subject, please. I can give you the contact to the company (a big manufacturer). Take it further and succeed. Maybe you will manage to find a process-reliable bond or a way of working that is better than mine. Happy modeling

Hallo I think this book is a must. I have the Re-8 to build! This is interesting. I worked on this type and designed etched parts for strut support plates for it. If there is any interest in this, so let me know. I built also the model in 1/48 from Roden. Happy modelling

Hallo In my case: JG 54 black 7. The aircraft beside has the inner gear doors on and open. So it is quite possible, that the same is valid for the black 7 too. I found enough information on your links attached to understand the actuation of the inner doors. Thank you all! There is another question aroused: The shape of the outer gear doors, there are two different shapes. One is parallel cut to provide ground clearance, and the other one is something bigger. I assume for having less drag during flight. Happy modelling

Hallo Basically, the F-15 is a good basic design. She has more skills because of the high cost compared to her peers in the western world. Now that the western allies are increasingly coming under cost pressure and at the same time need life extension, increased combat capability and other updates from the existing equipment, this is a logical development. At the same time, the entire stealth development is very expensive, very fragile and associated with many risks in operational use. Thus, the F-15 is a sensible plan B. Of course, there is also the fact that the selection of available types of aircraft is very small due to the reduction in type. You should also keep in mind that you cannot put everything on one card. Stealth is just one card. Because of the experiences from Israel interwoven with the F-15 from the very beginning, as a contemporary witness I can fully understand the decision. Happy modelling

Some steps forward. After spraying one color, wet sanding with 6000+ to prevent edges! Happy modelling

Mavbe it helps!