dov
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Posts posted by dov
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Hallo
I all thank you for your warm reception of this model.
It is the first out of a batch of five.
The second one is already sprayed, also in OD.
Next week you can see it.
Happy modelling
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Hallo
This is day 3 of my second P-38.
The interior, the cockpit is finished.
In meantime the central fuselage is glued with the cockpit installed.
Due to the learnig process out of my errors on the build #1, it became much better now!
Have a look:
Happy modelling
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No, @Andy Dyck, this is NO Hasegawa kit. This is Academy repacked by Eduard. If you read my WIP, this kit is a nightmere. But I have the abilityto crack such a thing, which would have seen for sure the wastebasket 10 years earlier! My patience and my experience!
Happy modelling
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Hallo
Here I represent you the first P-38 Lightning out of a series of 5 aircraft.
P-38G, 42-2197, 80 FS/8 FG
New Guinea, 1943/44, 'Nulli Secundus / X-Virgin'
The kit is from Eduard. In my WIP I described all the working steps, my decisions and all shortcomings in every detail.
I will here only explain my paint job and final assembly.
The painting was done with a mixture of OD 1 from Gunze C12 and some brown C79.
Highly diluted of course. The neutral grey also, as C13.
The shading in brighter and darker shades with white or yellow for OD, for neutral grey with white and darker with some black added.
Again all highly diluted.
The chipping of the weathering I did with salt.
In detail explained in WIP.
At the very finish I used black highly diluted as overspray.
So have a look:
Happy modelling
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Hallo
This model is now completed and finished.
To mention is, that most kits and decal sheets do not suply the elipsse mirror on the inner nacelle!
I made it with metal foil.
Lots of lead was added into the nose and it proofed right so.
The assemebly with the bullet proofed glas and revi is a horror!
Just praying!
Just to see:
More in RFI section please
My present project is the Babe:
So far I got today with my second Lightning.
The other versions will be as an L version the two Eduard kits of the late one:
The Tamiya kit will be one of this two.
The J version and L veerion I like both of them.
The Italien version is more colorful!
Or
So far my project.
Happy modelling
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Hallo
Now I will show you my paintjob. It is not completly finished, since the black weathering all over will be done after stenceling is complete.
You see, that markings are on, also the personal markings.
Stencils are still under way.
Here the hings were made of 0,3mm brass wire.
The other options are just two plastic hings or a filigran option from Eduard.
At my very first Lightning 20 years ago, the doors soon came off!
So make it better!
Surface chipping with Aluminium color C8 and salt.
If you practice the salt version so obey:
The excess water must be dipped off very soon, otherwise you get a salt cake and a big alu area.
If you want tiny one, the salt cristals stick very soon with a smal amount of water.
Excess water I dipped with the edge of a paper handkerchief easily.
Happy modelling
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Hallo
Today I sprayed the P-38 G. It was an uneventful job.
The surfaces are in OD and neutral grey.
Shading and weathering was done.
Weathering with salt to get some chipped areas around the filler caps for fuel and the entry and exit area of the cockpit.
Shading in a brighter color, darker color for some areas and blending down again with base color to achieve a good result.
Of corse the personal markings in green and white are also sprayed.
At the end a gloss varnish was sprayed.
Tomorrow I will decal and stencil the aircraft.
Then you will get some photos, to see what it is.
Happy modelling
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Hallo
Now after grinding the center fuselage and filling it and polishing it, I went to assemble the aircraft.
Before I improofed my surface treatment on the booms a little bit.
All shortcomings I mentioned yesterday are comunicated with Eduard Help Desk.
I will keep you informed!
Here you may see it:
My decission of the other two versions to da I also made:
P-38L, 44-26568, 36 FS/8 FG, W, le Shima, 1945, 'Wicked Woman' from the Kagero booklet
and from Exito Decals #48009 this one:
The Exito decal sheet and instruction are superb! Highly recomended.
This are to my opinion good choices.
I am eager to finish this week my first P-38!
Next week the second one. And so on....
We will see.
Happy modelling
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5
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Hallo
At day ONE I was cutting brasin and glueing my booms. Including wheelbay. The nose also and it got a heavy leed weight.
The brasin parts I tried to try fit them with Tamiya masking self ahesive strips to get a clue about the correct position for installation.
After reworking the center front plastic part several times, I could lay away my kit for the night.
My conclusion was: It should fit, we will see.
Now I am on day TWO of my build.
What happened?
Lots. First of all the embarassing contact with the instruction. Countrary to the origin of instruction from Acadamy, Eduard choose the paper saving way.
It is nothing to say about this intention, but the Eduard instruction became so a Eduard confusion.
Many parts, specially right and left boom parts with all together, you have no, absolute no idea what you are doing.
This matter caused a strong anger about such an thing.
The next issue are the brasin parts. The quality is split. In cast and material property.
Exact edeges are often bigger radii, so that you can later on not use an oil wash. It would ruin the cockpit.
The location of the finished cockpit is a mystery. I do not know it even now. It just stucks where it is, and I used CA to get it in a proper position.
I used the finished cockpit, the lower half of center section and put upper center section on top of it. Pushed it backward.
Afterward I used the center section of plastic, which also takes the windscreen later on.
Here I had to push the cockpit even more rearward, not to interfere with the front panel.
Trial and Error.
Since my excellent ability to switch my personal thinking to the thoughts of a person which is unable to draw or tell or write his thoughts, I could understand what I had to expect.
One landmine after the next with fuses on! Yes, this is the build.
So I thought I became fastidious after my 5 Thunderbolts, but I also did not find any report about one build kit of the P-38 from Eduard.
My wife became scared, when she saw this errors one after the next. So, her two kits found in a few seconds afterward the way into my stash!
Happyness and tears at the same time. I could not resist and will take the burden to build 4 kits in summery!
Take a look on my doing, just TWO days from the start.
At the beginning of day TWO, I knew that there are only two choices: Report to my thread or it goes to the wastebasket!
Before I pushed the cockpit in correct position!
After I pushed the cockpit in correct position and glued it with CA in correct position. The word correct is here a derision, since I do not know it, just I think it!
Here an excellent example for this kit. The 3 tiny pairs of stencils for the radio equipment are scattered all over the decal sheet!
It's like someone selling a product to deliberately annoy the customer.
Happy modelling
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5
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As far as I remind me 25 years ago:
DRAGON
Were the best.
Happy modelling
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Wonderful!
As the world is round, things are the same in each country, people are bright there!
I got other items from Turkey, which is so smart, they have good ideas too.
Let us see what this aircraft can do!
The US thought about decades, they are the only wisd one. It is a refreshment to see others too!
Happy modelling
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Hallo
The big issue on all kits is the gear! Most of them are wrong. No matter which scale, which producer. I built them in all scales 32 48 and 72.
Tamiya gear forward angle is wrong! Almost 90°.
The most complex was my ZM Ta 152 in this way.
As all said, make your choice and much luck.
My choice is Eduard in 48, I will start after summer!
Happy modelling
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Hallo
Thanks for the reception.
As I was asked how I achieved this surface: Well, not so difficult, but it took me about 25 years modelling to achieve it.
The thing is actually, you must have nerves.
And the strong will to achieve a surface like a mirror.
I worked with Gunze colors of the C and GX branch. Metal colors +201 and +204 with SM branch.
All colors are treated this way. No metal colors as well!
The dilution must be that way, that the paint must no longer drip, it must have started to run.
I check this with a metal measuring spoon. Always the same for all colors.
During spraying you mast hold a certain near distance, that the paint forms a wet spot on the sprayed surface, which then moves with your spray gun.
If you go too close, tears will appear; if you go too far, this wet spot will disappear completely.
Keeping your distance correctly in all areas of the model requires experience.
It all requires experience, which will grow if you have patience and nerves!
Happy modelling
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@quangster, the MiniArt model has two main issues:
Surface detail overdone!
Design of parts of the kit that way, you cann't assemble it!
Example: Accutator of inner wheelbay door, the gun installation with open gunbay, and many more...
Happy modelling
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@IIBSWAT, yes I have this books. Bought it in Krakau at the musem!
Happy modelling
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Hallo
Thanks for the reception.
As I was asked how I achieved this surface: Well, not so difficult, but it took me about 25 years modelling to achieve it.
The thing is actually, you must have nerves.
And the strong will to achieve a surface like a mirror.
I worked with Gunze colors of the C and GX branch. Metal colors +201 and +204 with SM branch.
The dilution must be that way, that the paint must no longer drip, it must have started to run.
I check this with a metal measuring spoon. Always the same for all colors.
During spraying you mast hold a certain near distance, that the paint forms a wet spot on the sprayed surface, which then moves with your spray gun.
If you go too close, tears will appear; if you go too far, this wet spot will disappear completely.
Keeping your distance correctly in all areas of the model requires experience.
It all requires experience, which will grow if you have patience and nerves!
Happy modelling
-
Hallo
Thanks for the reception.
As I was asked how I achieved this surface: Well, not so difficult, but it took me about 25 years modelling to achieve it.
The thing is actually, you must have nerves.
And the strong will to achieve a surface like a mirror.
I worked with Gunze colors of the C and GX branch. Metal colors +201 and +204 with SM branch.
All colors are treated this way. No metal colors as well!
The dilution must be that way, that the paint must no longer drip, it must have started to run.
I check this with a metal measuring spoon. Always the same for all colors.
During spraying you mast hold a certain near distance, that the paint forms a wet spot on the sprayed surface, which then moves with your spray gun.
If you go too close, tears will appear; if you go too far, this wet spot will disappear completely.
Keeping your distance correctly in all areas of the model requires experience.
It all requires experience, which will grow if you have patience and nerves!
Happy modelling
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1
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Hallo
Thanks for the reception.
As I was asked how I achieved this surface: Well, not so difficult, but it took me about 25 years modelling to achieve it.
The thing is actually, you must have nerves.
And the strong will to achieve a surface like a mirror.
I worked with Gunze colors of the C and GX branch. Metal colors +201 and +204 with SM branch.
The dilution must be that way, that the paint must no longer drip, it must have started to run.
I check this with a metal measuring spoon. Always the same for all colors.
During spraying you mast hold a certain near distance, that the paint forms a wet spot on the sprayed surface, which then moves with your spray gun.
If you go too close, tears will appear; if you go too far, this wet spot will disappear completely.
Keeping your distance correctly in all areas of the model requires experience.
It all requires experience, which will grow if you have patience and nerves!
Happy modelling
-
Hallo
Thanks for the warm receptions.
As I was asked how I achieved this surface: Well, not so difficult, but it took me about 25 years modelling to achieve it.
The thing is actually, you must have nerves.
And the strong will to achieve a surface like a mirror.
I worked with Gunze colors of the C and GX branch. Metal colors +201 and +204 with SM branch.
The dilution must be that way, that the paint must no longer drip, it must have started to run.
I check this with a metal measuring spoon. Always the same for all colors.
During spraying you mast hold a certain near distance, that the paint forms a wet spot on the sprayed surface, which then moves with your spray gun.
If you go too close, tears will appear; if you go too far, this wet spot will disappear completely.
Keeping your distance correctly in all areas of the model requires experience.
It all requires experience, which will grow if you have patience and nerves!
Happy modelling
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The P-38 in 1/48 scale will be my next project.
For this I will use the Eduard kits
Together with this kits I use
https://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/ref/kag/book_kag_15033.shtml
My intention is to build the P-38
- P-38G, 42-2197, 80 FS/8 FG, 3, Dobodura, New Guinea, 1943/44, 'Nulli Secundus / X-Virgin'
- P-38L, 44-26176, 36 FS/8 FG, A, le Shima, 1945, 'Vagrant Virgin'
I will start on Monday.
Happy modelling
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Hallo
This kit is from Tamiya and represents a P-47M in 1/48 from the late operational days.
The kit and his features are all described in my WIP here. This kit was a joy to build!
This particular aircraft was piloted from Leo Butiste from the 62nd FS in the 56th FG.
The serial was 44-1199. Have a look and enjoy:
Happy modelling
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Hallo
This kit is from MiniArt and represents a P-47D in 1/48 from the mid operational days.
The kit and his features are all described in my WIP here.
This kit was the most difficult one to build!
Not the aircraft was the problem, the kit design was the problem!
This particular aircraft was piloted from Ben Mayo from the 82nd FS in the 78th FG.
The serial was 42-26671. Have a look and enjoy:
Happy modelling
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Hallo
This kit is from Tamiya and represents a P-47D in 1/48 from the mid operational days.
The kit and his features are all described in my WIP here.
This kit was a joy to build.
This particular aircraft was piloted from Fred Christensen from the 62th FS in the 56th FG.
The serial was 42-26628. Have a look and enjoy:
Happy modelling
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Hallo
This kit is from Tamiya and represents a P-47D in 1/48 from the early operational days.
The kit and his features are all described in my WIP here.
This kit was a joy to build.
This particular aircraft was piloted from Howard Curran from the 510th FS in the 405th FG.
The serial was 42-26249. It was used in ground operations.
Have a look and enjoy:
Happy modelling
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P-38 in 1/48. 4 times Eduard and 1 Tamiya kits. 3 versions from the PTO and 1 version from the MTO and one version from the ETO
in Work in Progress - Aircraft
Posted
Hallo
The paint job with weathering by airbrush is done in the first step.
Now, after decaling the individual markings, I am on stenceling.
This takes much more time now.
I use dry transfer.
With decals it is a swift job.
Not so here now.
After a long time the first time again.
With Gunze H colors I had troubles, since the surface is too soft to apply the dry transfer.
Here now with Gunze C colors it works well.
So far today, more tomorrow....
Happy modelling