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Kevin Aris

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  1. welcome to my restarted Amerigo here are a few pictures taken back when first started in 2008
  2. good evening everyone well im being greedy and have two builds on the go, this is the Amerigo Vespucci and Italian sail training ship that i started in 2008 and abandoned in favour of the Caldercraft HMS Victory, this hull was then relegated to shelf of doom, and has been thrown in the dustbin on a few occasions hence the holes in the hull but since finishing the Victory i have wanted to complete a fully rigged sailing vessel, i bought the Cutty Sark to do that, but then convinced myself that i ought to be doing this so if you want a bit of a giggle, offer help, or want to ask questions please do so, in return i will do regular updates so this is what sh looks like n 1925, the Regia Marina ordered two school ships to a design by General Lieutenant Francesco Rotundi of the Italian Navy Engineering Corps, inspired by the style of large late 18th century 74-cannon ships of the line (like the neapolitan ship "Monarca"). The first, the Cristoforo Colombo, was put into service in 1928 and was used by the Italian Navy until 1943. After World War II, this ship was handed over to the USSR as part of the war reparations and was shortly afterwards decommissioned.[citation needed] The second ship was the Amerigo Vespucci, built in 1930 at the (formerly Royal) Naval Shipyard of Castellammare di Stabia (Naples). She was launched on February 22, 1931,[1] and put into service in July of that year. The vessel is a full rigged three-masted steel hull 82.4 m (270 ft) long, with an overall length of 101 m (331 ft) including the bowsprit and a maximum width of 15.5 m (51 ft). She has a draught of about 7 m (23 ft) and a displacement at full load of 4146 tons. Under auxiliary diesel-electric propulsion the Amerigo Vespucci can reach 10 knots (19 km/h) and has a range of 5450 nm at 6.5 knots. The three steel masts are 50, 54 and 43 metres high, and carry sails totalling 2,824 m2 (30,400 sq ft). The Amerigo Vespucci has 26 sails – square sails, staysails, and jibs: all are traditional canvas sails. When under sail in severe sea and wind conditions she can reach 12 knots (22 km/h). The rig, some 30 km of ropes, uses only traditional hemp ropes; only the mooring lines are synthetic, to comply with port regulations. The hull is painted black with two white stripes, harking back to the two gun decks of the ships her design is based on, but she carries only two 6pdr saluting guns in pivot mountings on the deck, forward of the mainmast. The deck planks are of teak wood and must be replaced every three years. Bow and stern are decorated with intricate ornaments; she has a life-size figurehead of Amerigo Vespucci. The stern gallery is accessible only through the Captain's saloon. The standard crew of the Amerigo Vespucci is 16 officers, 70 non-commissioned officers and 190 sailors. In summer, when she embarks the midshipmen of the Naval Academy (Accademia Navale), the crew totals some 450.[citation needed] In 1964 the ship was fitted with two 4-stroke, 8-cylinder FIAT B 308 ESS diesel engines, which replaced the original 2-stroke 6-cylinder FIAT Q 426 engines. These engines generated electric power for one electric propulsion motor that produced up to about 1,471 kW (1,973 hp).[citation needed] After update works, between 2013 and 2016, the ship has been fitted with two 4-stroke, 12-cylinder MTU, 1,32 MW each diesel engine generators and two 4-stroke, 8-cylinder MTU, 760 kW each diesel engine generators,[2] and one NIDEC (Ansaldo Sistemi Industriali) electric engine.[3][4] During the same work, the ship has been fitted with new radar GEM Elettronica AN/SPS-753(V)5, new satellite antenna ORBIT AL-7103. When carrying cadets, the ship is usually steered from the manual stern rudder station, which is operated by four steering wheels with two men each. At other times, the hydraulically assisted steering on the bridge is used. Except for the anchor winch, the winches aboard are not power operated. The bridge is equipped with sophisticated modern electronic navigation instruments. Other than during World War II, the Amerigo Vespucci has been continually active. Most of her training cruises are in European waters, but she has also sailed to North and South America, and navigated the Pacific. In 2002, she undertook a voyage around the world. The Amerigo Vespucci often takes part in sailing parades and Tall Ships' Races, where she is in amicable rivalry with the Gorch Fock. When she is berthed in port, public tours of the vessel are usually offered. On 7 July 2018, Amerigo Vespucci arrived to the port of Almeria.[5] It is the third time it visited Almería:[6] the first one was in 1932,[7] and the second one was in 1989.[8] It left the city on 10 July.[9] Then it will travel to Ponta Delgada, in the Azores Islands, and it will cross the Atlantic Ocean to the Northern Europe.[10][11] Quote Edit Post Actions
  3. look what happens when o build a trawler, someone starts and build of a Oberon class boat, 8 brilliant years i had on Odin as a back aftie
  4. good evening everyone i in a position now to think about putting a primer on the hull, but been to wet and windy this weekend the mast is made up, by off centring different different strip wood to create an oval shape, it going to be tall at 97 cm long, still to be tapered off today i have brought another build back from the dead and will now also progress the Amerigo Vespucci
  5. its also very convenient for just dropping a build in there and restart another
  6. good evening everyone work on the yacht continues, the rudder post fitted, the rudder its self will be secured into position later, it will be fixed in a permanent way the structure has now been secured inside the hull, i now need to secure the deck to the sides, as i did not want to much 2 part epoxy dripping everywhere 26 holes have been put in, mainly for the scuppers and 4 hawse holes using the PE templete the scuppers were a real pain, and still need a lot of work to just get two looking the same
  7. Good morning everyone well thats game of thrones watched, we thouroughly enjoyed it all 8 seasons, so now hope to spend a couple extra hours a day on the build until the next boxset, possibly "Killing Eve"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Killing_Eve made some progress on the cabin top, i am finding it much harder than anticipated to keep everything clean and new looking, and trying to keep it OOB without extra, although i would like to get some white rigging line, and the box art shows brass rings on the sails, im not sure if thats correct, these are not included as part of the kit
  8. Good evening everyone well the decking was completed, without to much fuss, and everything was the same both side, Joggling is a bit of an art, but got better as time went by then i had a fantastic idea remove the king planks sand them back and re-stain , sort the wonky nibbles out and then varnish the planking before the king plank go back on brilliant idea (actually it was a very very bad idea, just spent three hours getting them back in, they bear no resemblance to what i have been test fitting over the last few days, god i make some work for myself lol the stand is temporary for now i want to paint it a different colour to the hull which will be blue
  9. the hull is very light and tough with it, kit would suit a new starter, but lol i think the decking would put them off, if however they brought a version out with a printed deck to give the option, it would sell quite well IMO
  10. good evening everyone one side is nearly completed, what a lot of work to get it this far
  11. good morning everyone thank you for comments and likes deck planking continues, what ever error i have made is continuing through, even though i still dont know if it was a mistake by me, as i have to do the same repair to the foremast joggle plate
  12. good evening everyone i hit a problem this morning, and took until tonight to think through a decent repair the after corner jogling board either side of the cockpit did not meet the run of planking was infact just over 1mm short, it has taken me all day to think through a solution in this photo i have tried to go round it but you can see the next board will not be wide enough to fill the gap pulling all the boards off would not solve the problem, as you can see they are symmetrical, infill would not work, then tonight whilst dog walking, i had a senior moment and thought make the cockpit boards wider, and that what i did, an 6 hour worry and an hour to resolve, im happy again, personally i dont know how this could have been avoided starboard side cut off found a piece of strip wood the right width attached it to the joggling board both sides done and back in place
  13. good evening everyone 4 rows in and starting to look ok, take a bit of time to get the fir right, as the wood is different widths
  14. Good morning everyone a slow start but the deck planking is going down, i have gone back to using the kit supplied strip wood and it is thicker then my own
  15. Welcome to my new build This was presented to me by NRG Model Ship World a few months ago as a retirement present, for which i am extremely grateful, my kit is the one that was reviewed i have been given permission by the reviewer to use this 1:20 Dorade – 1931 Amati Catalogue # 1605 Dorade is a yacht designed in 1929 by Olin Stephens of Sparkman & Stephens and built 1929–1930 by the Minneford Yacht Yard in City Island, New York. She went on to place 2nd in the Bermuda Race later that year. The crew for its first race received the All-Amateur Crew Prize. However, it would be a win in the Transatlantic Race that would bring the boat its name. She completed a race that takes an estimated 3–4 weeks in just 17 days, earning her crew a parade upon the ship's return and a reception for Olin Stephens hosted by the mayor of New York. Olin Stephens, the designer, was skipper through 1932 when he handed the boat to his brother, Rod Stephens. Led by Rod, Dorade sailed to victory in the 1932 Bermuda Race. From Bermuda, Dorade sailed back to Norway, down to Cowes, England, and finally back to America after winning the Fastnet Race. The victory of the 1932 Fastnet Race was of substantial significance given the unusually severe weather, several ships feared missing as well as one recorded drowning among the events that unfolded. Dorade was completely restored in 1997 at the shipyard of Argentario, in Porto Santo Stefano, Italy. In 2013, Dorade took first place (after applying her handicap) in the Trans-Pacific race that she had won in 1936. Edit courtesy of Wikipedia For further information on Dorade, check out this excellent page at Dorade.org The kit The size of this box (and it’s huge!) certainly belies the weight of it. You’d expect something as heavy as the Vanguard that we looked at a couple of months ago, but that’s certainly not the case at all. The reason for this will be seen in a moment. The box itself is beautifully presented with a super-glossy lid depicting a finished Dorade model, and of course in a portrait format due to the shape of the vessel. The model itself, at 1:20 scale, has given measurements of 85.6cm long, and 103 cm tall. More images of the completed vessel adorn the sides of the box. Now, lifting that lid reveals an open top lower box, unlike the complete and enclosed boxes of other large Amati kits I’ve looked at. Immediately, your eyes are drawn to the reason why this box is relatively light, and that is the inclusion of a complete ABS hull, and hence the reason why this model is stated as being suitable for RC conversion, although the modeller will have to fathom that themselves, as no instructions are given for that particular path. Internally, the box has a number of card inserts to stop the various contents from jangling around loose. It’s only the components tray itself that seems to be a little freer to move, but thankfully, mine hadn’t spilled open or become dislodged. That ABS hull is very nicely moulded, is fairly thin, and super-light in weight. It has a glossy external finish and will just need some buffing and polishing to remove some very minor surface abrasions. The upper edge will need the fuzziness removed from, but again, this is something that’s very east to do, and not a reflection of the quality, which really is excellent. First, we take a look at the thick, clear sleeve and the paper contents within. Quite a few Amati releases have a glossy instruction manual, and this has one too, well…at least the cover is glossy, with Italian text giving a short history of the vessel. Inside, the instructions are given in line drawing format, with shading for clarity. All stages have a reference number which can be cross-checked with the written assembly instructions. For these, a glossy Italian manual is provided, with standard A4 sheets provided for both the French and English versions. Going back to the main illustrative instructions, there is some annotation given in all three set languages also. Parts are also clearly identified, whether they be wooden, or one of the many fittings that are supplied. Please note that the timber parts themselves aren’t actually numbered, and you will need to refer to the component identification plan sheet. Construction tips are also given, such as how to mark the waterline. As for the fittings etc., these can be identified against a comprehensive parts list that is provided in each language, which gives the part number, name, and specific number of included components. I suggest that each packet of components be put in a zip-lock wallet with the kit identifying code written on, to make it easy to locate the parts needed during construction. FOUR large plan sheets are included in this release, printed on relatively thin paper. The first three sheets provide large scale drawings of the Bessel, from profiles, to upper elevations and sectional material, plus those all-important fitting positions etc. Annotation on the main plans appears to be in Italian, but the illustrations are clear to see, so for a competent modeller, there shouldn’t be any problems encountered. If the worst comes to worst, just use an online translator tool. The last of the large plan sheets is the parts guide for the wooden sheets, with all parts being easily identified against the instruction booklet. I’m sure I once read that the Dorade kit provided no parts reference for things such as the internal hull framework etc. and that everything was in Italian. Well, if that was the case, then it certainly isn’t now. Remember that companies like Amati revise their kits from time to time, in instructions as well as parts, so maybe that referred to an old issue. A sandwich of timber is now provided as two long plywood sheets are taped together, with the thin ply deck hiding between them. These main sheets are the thickest timber components in the box and provide the modeller with the various internal hull frames and bulkheads, as well as the parts that make up stand (note that no main plinth is supplied, as shown on the box lid). All parts are cleanly laser-cut with very small tags to cut through to remove them from their sheets. The deck is a full-length piece of thin ply with mast holes in situ, and the rear panel for lower deck access, just needing removal. As this is a stylish sail yacht, you need some decent sail material, and a packet of this is included here. You’ll need to cut and stitch these yourself as per plan. Another thick, clear sleeve contains more timber components, plus a number of other items. One of the timber sheets is a smaller, thin ply sheet with parts associated with the various deck structures, to name but a few. Cutting is again nice and clean, and timber quality is excellent. Parts here are for the various stringers, cockpit sides and edges, funnel flange and deckhouse roof etc. Two thicker walnut sheets include parts for the rudder, gunwales, belaying pin rack, ventilator tops, skylights, doors, winch steps. Mizzen mast coaming and crosstrees, plus other coamings and side elements. As a number of these parts will be varnished and the wood generally seen, you will need to remove any charring from the laser cutting. One packet contains some good quality acetate for the various deck structure windows, and also a piece of what appears to be a glossy dark green card. I can’t identify that as of yet. Timber strip quality is high and also cleanly cut. This first bundle, held by a thread and paper wrap, is for the deck planking. Remember, no hull planking here! This creamy coloured material will need to have a nice deck caulk effect set between them. Another bundle of timber includes circular and semi-circular dowel lengths, and more strip timber in Ramin and walnut. Several lengths of brass section strip are included, as is a length of thick copper rod. Amati has included a reasonably sized sheet of brass photo etch. This really must be the shiniest, most polished PE that I’ve ever seen. Totally mirror-like in quality. Here you will find parts that include mast collars, shelves, trolleys, flanges, portholes, jib brackets, sheave boxes, rails, and turnbuckle and ventilator parts, again, to name but a few. Production quality is first rate, with narrow, thin tags holding the components securely until you need to remove them. A separate, smaller piece of PE contains the external and internal hawseholes. Lastly, we take a look at the plastic tray of components. This tray is a typical Amati storage box in vac-form plastic, with a clear lid. This is compartmentalised to accommodate the numerous packets of fittings within. Dorade’s fitting tray is certainly weighty, with NINETEEN packets of fittings, nails, decals and rigging cord. Fittings include cleats, portholes, winches, eyebolts, ventilators, boom parrels, turnbuckles, snaphooks, rings, pulleys, sheaves and side lights. Where those parts are cast, the finish is very good, with just a buffing needed before priming . Conclusion If you want a project that is a little different from the norm, then Dorade may be just what you are after. With the hull just requiring some remedial finishing before use, plus cutting out the scuppers, you should also find that it’s a relatively quick project that will take a few months instead of running into years. Dorade is a beautiful yacht, and Amati have very much caught her lines here. There is of course a little jigging around between the parts plan, materials and the instructions, and of course with any model this size, you’ll need a reasonable working space, plus some intermediate skills when it comes to tackling the various task required. For the price, she’s also a very attractive subject and will doubtless be a real centrepiece when on display. Quality is typically Amati, and I’m sure you’ll really like this one!
  16. final reveal time Good evening everyone well that's it, the trawler is finished, but that not the end of her, she will be going into a diorama at some stage in the future, i will at that time do any weathering i enjoyed a this build a lot, the instructions were poor, plans not much better, every bit of white metal required some attention, and i would do it all again tomorrow painting was mainly rattle can primer and acrylics left over from other builds large amounts of Red, white with Matt black were used i would like to thank everyone who has followed me , and for comments and likes, going to spend tomorrow cleaning up the mancave and get the next project on the go, see you all on another thread
  17. good evening everyone i promise to post more often on my next build Otter boards made up some time ago needed the brackets making all windows were glazed with white pva wood glue boat deck supports in yellow primer lighting lots of little leds fitted, the power supply connections have been fitted under the bildge keels foremast i wasnt happy with the dead eyes in a one piece so i bought some, and made my own brackets finishing bits off after gallows nav ligts, look crappy as i made my own, and i used the poor kit resin box thing mast stays taken out side for a strip down, clean up last bits
  18. good evening everyone in Britmodller land and i hope you are all well an up date of where I am up to i wont mention the diorama setting she is going into as that will be another thread Capping rails fitted hull panting after gallows painted and fittied fish hatches from balsa spray painted and dry brushing Fish ponds tidying up the fish deck Whaleback otter boards finished after i had to make the brackets
  19. yes the circumstances coul;d be a lot better, lol i dread the letter saying i am being reenlisted to the RN, i dont fancy doing crowd control in a local Asda supermarket ty for the comments, it is coming on quite well now, another week or so and the superstructure may be finished, then its time to get the bath tub (hull) out and get on with that but need some dry weather
  20. good evening everyone well im not 100% sure i have achieved what i wanted, but it look far better than it did, at present i have lost the wire rope effect, and some of the ratlines are not laying down correctly, they can be sorted with a pva wash, i may try drybrushing to get the steel effect back the plans for the booms are very vague so they are in position for now, until i find a decent reference yesterday the stanchions above the ladders were completed,sprayed with white primer and a grime wash put on top the big parts that were made up a few months ago and now being fitted, another week or so, i may have to put her on hold, as the hull will then require work and its just too wet/damp to do it,
  21. good evening everyone yesterday i finished rigging the main mast today i ripped it all off including the mast and did my first big rebuild deck hole made larger made the mast base hole larger metal tube from the Bismarck build cut lager than required wooden dowelling to firm up the top section of the mast resprayed and back on the boat within an hour he extra metal tube is secured under with a washer c/a into place new shrouds made as before but now toned down with a flory grime wash i even converted a photo to black and white to help me make a decision to do the rip out, obviously that didnt change my mind
  22. good evening everyone Main mast this has now been set to the correct rake, as per the plans the shrouds took a day or so to get right, as they are steel, i had noting in the correct amounts to do this, picture hanging wire was about right so i cut lengths of thread and dipped it in silver paint, wiped it through, bees waxed it and the found some plastic tube, this was from cotton buds, pained silver, to represent the steel tube surrounding the fold in the wire this wasnt right, try again getting better, but still rong nope, to complicated thats much better nothing is fixed, as i need to make sure everything is in the right place, it is going to get crowded behind the wheel house The funnel being a big lump. i decided to find a system where i could pull the funnel to the superstructure rather than just glue it and hope its in the right place 10mm x 10 mm brace in base of funnel same again secure under the funnel area and a 3rd loose bit under the superstructure with a screw through it into the base of the funnel brace allowed me to get a tight fit , and adjust it till in the right position stays going in for the funnel and mast and outside for some brushing off and photos
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