WelshZeCorgi

I think it's done. Still bare, wondering if I should seal the work in with a semi-gloss or flat clear. I am thinking of making my first diorama, which is the M5 cutting through bocage, with infantry behind using the tank as cover. Any criticism is welcome. Don't be polite, give it to me.

It looks really nice! What did you do on the upper hull to give it that nice light weathering?

Since it wouldn't make sense for a dirty tank to have a clean crew, I dirtied up the (commander? Loader?) to match the tank. Used Vallejo brown pigments with Vallejo European dust wash. Brushed/ knocked off the excess with white spirit and a vigorous dusting with a brush. Not sure what's left to do. Any suggestions? Put on some tamiya flat clear? Semi-gloss?

Realized that in my previous post that I didn't show the front. Had dirt and oil color spread on the front star, both to cover the mistake on the decal and for realism? Guess they covered that up to prevent enemy gunners from using it as an aiming point.

I'm trying to replicate machine gun/rifle/submachine gun fire. I want to model the casings being ejected from the guns, so I will need to find a way to suspend them in midair. I was wondering if there was some way to do this. The casings will just be cut up styrene plastic after it had been stretched out, like you would for antennas for tanks and ariel wires.

Redcoat, how do you have such good control of the airbrush spray pattern? I get a lot of overspray but yours have really clean edges, especially noticeable in the pre-shading effect.

Do you fix it to the base with screws? Nails? Superglue seems to get brittle with age. I don't want to pick it up 4 years from now only to find the superglue didn't last when the model slips off and hits the ground. But this might be a good time to make a small, simple diorama with it. as for the .303, Should I just mask off both sides of the bullets and just spray some brown down the middle?

I meant more like, "do I use a varnish, what kind"? I keep most of my models at my work desk and people sometimes just pick it up to get a better look at it.

I tried keeping it to a minimum, but to show wear, I tried really dirtying it up by using oil paints to create rain and mud streaking effects. I also used a white spirit medium to put on Vallejo pigments to create dust and dried mud. Not sure if I overdid it. Anyways, I do see a problem. How do I touch this model without leaving massive fingerprints on it?

It was Tamiya acrylic paint with tamiya's x20a acrylic thinner.

1. So how would I fix the chips already in place? Should I just go over it with the base color again and just dab at the chips until they seem good? 2. I'm having paint issues. I'm using Tamiya acrylic paints and they just seem to blob on instead of providing that sharp, well-defined edge needed for a paint chip to look realistic. How do I get paint consistency down so that my 10/0 brush doesn't blob when it tap the paint on?

Why? What happens if you let it stand?

I tried the paintbrush chipping effect. And I think it looks bad. How to fix it? How to do it properly?

I accidently over thinned a bottle of paint, is there a proper way to thicken it back up?

In this article, where it states weathering stages, http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/painting-guide/painting-sequence/ It says 'boot marks'. How do you make boot marks?

So I'm wondering if chipping with a metallic brown color is accurate, but is it still true that it was hard to chip/scuff american tanks because the paint was more durable and better maintained?

Thanks. I will continue using it then.

Hi, I'm working on weathering and completing this M5 Stuart from Tamiya. I made a few mistakes and would like to know what your thoughts are to correct them. I tried using Vallejo Model wash on the tank, but when trying a pinwash, tide marks appeared before I could get the access off; this was especially true for rivets. I tried watering it down with water but tide marks would still appear. Not sure how to use Vallejo Model washes. I tried a full wash to cover up the tide marks but it left a tide mark on the most conspicuous place imagineable, the American star on the front hull. How would you correct this? I've noticed some silvering of some of the decals. Wondering if there is a way to 1. Keep them from flecking off later on and 2. Correct the silvering decals.

This is my first tiger I made about 4 years ago. Didn't paint it until now because I couldn't afford an airbrush & compressor. Now that I have one, I want to practice painting on it. So first question, my dark yellow basecoat has a slightly sandy finish to it, almost like sandpaper yet it doesn't have that black "fuzziness" look to it. Is that normal or okay? Secondly, I'm sort of confused by the pecking order for painting and weathering. So my understanding is... 1. Base coat 2. Camoflage pattern 3. Tamiya clear x-22 or future floor polish 4. Decals 5. Tamiya clear x-22 or future floor polish 6. Chipping/pin washing/streaking/weathering 7. light misting of a semi-gloss or flat 8. ??? 9. Profit. Let me know if I'm being a stupid.

This is my half finished CJ. I ran into problems The left elevator fell off like 3 times and due to frustration I really caked on the glue to try and get it to meld better but some of it squeezed out of the joint and onto the surface. The paint has been fuzzy due to using the wrong thinner for Mr color paints and now I'm wondering how to fix that. I believe that I'm to sand it with 2000-2500 grit finishing sandpaper then spray it again. Thirdly I'm not sure of the next few "steps". I was thinking: 1. finish spraying the camo scheme, 2. then attaching the landing gear, 3. then the weapons, 4. then gloss it down with tamiyas bottled clear x-22 or the pledge floor shine 5. then put on decals, 6. seal them off with more x-22 or pledge 7. then weather and finally a mist coat of semi-gloss to knock down the shine. Is that all correct? 

Is this the correct brand of floor finish used for creating a gloss coat on your mode

Thanks for the feedback! I was wondering what you use to get that metallic polishing effect and what I should use to make soot. Also when you mean making holes, do you mean the two holes? (Gunner sight and machine gun port)

I'm looking for some workable tracks for the Tamiya Pz. kpfw II F But I can only find one for the L varient. I also found Marader II tracks which I think was using the chassis of the Pz. kpfw II. Would those tracks work? Does the difference in varients matter so much that tracks from one wouldn't work on the other?

What is the color that should be used to accurately represent scuffing of American and Soviet Armor? Here is what I think I know so far. 1. American tanks from different factories had different primer colors. 2. American tanks used some sort of hard enamel paint that was really difficult to scuff off. 3. Soviet tanks did not use primer in the earlier stages of the war, but did later on.