WelshZeCorgi

Tried to make a pack of cigarettes, a compass, pencils and dividers/calipers. Has anyone tried scratchmaking these things?

Applied decals on halftrack and helmets. Of course, I lost one crest meant for the helmet, so not 100% smooth sailing. Also painted the wooden handles on tools using MM Wood enamel paint. Wish the expression on these soldiers would look a little less bored.

You see those two "prongs" right behind the headlights? the ones with the small metal ball at the end of them? Yeah, those broke off the Tamiya 251/1 a LONG time ago. They were unbelievably fragile but still need to be replaced. So I made these out of solder. Problem is trying to get the little "stem" that attaches the stem to the fender. I'll also have to replicate the side mirror. I think I will melt some of that solder and then just apply a dollop to the ceramic tile I have for PE. Should cool down into a droplet with one side flattened touching the ceramic. Then I can just super glue them together and be done with that.

Made this little pak 36 for the 251/1 to tow. Not sure what the camo pattern was for these in 1944-45. Looked up on the internet and I saw grey, but not much else. glossed all the figures and the halftrack with the new formula pledge floor wax. Tried to remember to coat thin, 3 coats, about 15 minutes between coats. Now the decals.

Think I managed to correct the weird streaking by using q-tips soaked in a little bit of oderless paint thinner. Managed to strip off more base color paint, but covered it with more dirt streaking. Just need to make some navigation tools for the tank Co and a dullcote and I should be finally done.

I messed it up again. Unbelievable. For whatever reason the white oil paint I used for streaking wouldn't come off no matter how much oderless paint thinner I used to try and brush it off. So I tried to tone down the effect by adding a thin layer of dust with the oderless paint thinner but it ended up creating this streaky mess above. Now I can't get the dust and oil off the tank, with either enamel thinner or oderless paint thinner. Guys? I need an adult! Help.

Funny how this French tank kind of has the outline of a cartoon frog.

Okay, did some oil and enamel weathering. Took ages to get the rifleman's eyes right, but I think it looks decent now. Though the submachine gunner's face is messed up. Can't tell what all that speckling came from. Must have been from the numerous attempts to paint the eyes and brows on flat paint. I should paint the eyes and brows with a pledge finishing coat on first, so that if I do mess up, the oil or enamel won't stick to the rough surface of the paint. Not sure why the white oil paint used for streaking eats up the tank in the photos. In person the white paint is a lot more subtle and after the dullcote it will be even more so. Maybe it's just reflecting way more light back into the camera. Hope the maps are convincing. They are maps of Seoul that I scaled down, sliced the paper down to a thinner thickness and folded up to make the creasing. Tried to make a compass out of 2 disks snipped off the sprues , but they always come out cockeyed and look ovalish and bad. Wonder if there is a better way. Also wanted to know if there were other instruments the Army used during the Korean war that could be added on top of the maps. Any advice would be great. I think I'm pretty much done? Did the pin washing, did the oil streaking, did the dusting on the tank. I should dust the boots and pants of the infantry and knock away some of the dust built up in the tracks and rollers at least before giving the whole party a good dull cote to seal it all in. But if I'm wrong or you think I can do a few more things to make the models better, don't hesitate to say, I came here to get better at the hobby.

Thanks, I actually bought a second tamiya hanomag kit, but I also bought a resin and PE detail conversion kit as well, along with a tamiya 4-figures kit for halftrack crew (driver, radio, gunner and spotter.) I'm hoping to use what I learn here to a better second attempt.

Forgot to replace the loader/gunner? hatch with a lead wire handle, so I did that, also added the antenna's and added a handle for the 50 cal. Sprayed the figures and the tank with 2 coats of pledge floor wax. Hopefully this means any mistake won't be so bad and that the pinwashes will flow freely into crevices and details. So I will have to remember to stick with nonacrylics for the touch ups and weathering. So I'm off to buy some oil and enamel paints for streaking, face painting and pin washing. Cross your fingers and wish me luck. I'm going back in! Edit: I was also thinking of printing out a 1:35th scale "map" for the tank commander and the submachine gunner to be pouring over. Wondering if there was a way to make scratchbuilt compasses and pencils in 35th scale. Guess I would have to whittle down a toothpick, then paint it yellow and the tip black. But not sure about the compass.

Really old build from 3 years ago, never bothered painting it but now I'm getting into building, I'm using it as practice. Got to highlight, paint the eyes and brows, clearcoat and pinwash face and weather the uniforms. I think. Still new to this. Need to paint the tools, then gloss coat (with pledge floor wax) , then put decals, then seal in decals with pledge again, then mist coat with buff, then chipping, then pinwash, then streaking, then clear matt coat finish and finally dusting, in that order. I think. Again, pretty new at this, if the order is wrong or I'm forgetting a step, let me know, thanks! Got to remember to clean up the exhaust. Thinking of chipping with foam using dark yellow, so that there is still flakes of the original paint on it. Directions for interior was not given in the Tamiya instructions, and from what I can tell, the interior was painted the same base color as the outside to keep it hidden from air recon. Would have been nice to paint the interior seats, dash steering wheel and stuff, but now that it's all sealed up, I can't get to it. Not sure how an experienced builder would paint the interior beforehand, but keep it protected from the rest of the paint job.

Made the stock kit, really screwed up the wash and pigments, tried to rub it off using the green version of windex, repainted the spots where the paint came off, still can't get the wash and dust pigment combo off the undercarriage, so I guess it's there for good. (will try to cover it up with another attempt Decided to have fun with it so I got some tracks form AFV club (turns out it works on Tamiya, no sanding or anything needed. Didn't want to throw away the extra tracks left over so I put a length of it on the left fender, and hung the last 3 links from scratchmade hangers on the right side of the turret. Removed the stock storage handles and commander's hatch handle, (which were just tabs of plastic) and replaced them with handles made of lead wire. Drilled out a hole for the 50 cal on top, and painted over the decals to give them a faded effect. Placed the figures in the way I wanted them when finished. Will need to put the radio antennas after everything is done. (The stubby ones from the original kit got snapped off during handling.) Almost done with the face, just need to put some drybrushing highlights and a pinwash. Then weather the uniform and I should be good. Need to weather the uniform and I think I'll be done with this figure too. I'm actually pretty unhappy with the face on this rifleman. Might blank it with tamiya's flat flesh (turns out I don't like this particular color of paint, but might as well use it while I have it). I'll redo eyes and brows with dark brown oil paint. Not sure if I want one eye shut or both eyes open. Then highlights and wash and weather and maybe it'll look good. Anyways, still new at this stuff, so let me know anything that will make these models look better.

So first time working with PE detail set + resin  I just want to be sure I have everything I need before I get started. I have the bug folding tool, a soldering iron, some soldering flux and soldering tin wire and a tile to cut the PE off and some super glue, though I think I need some de-bonder to clean up the inevitable mistake. But looking at the instructions, It looks like I have to cut away a few parts (dark red) and sand away a tonne of details off the fenders (pinkish). Think I need a micro drill for that. Tried cutting with the hobby knife but some of the details are too thick to slice through dependently and without the blade leaping for freedom once it cuts through. Was wondering if any had a suggestion for other tools I would need to do the PE and Resin kit properly. Thanks!

So first time working with PE detail set + resin I just want to be sure I have everything I need before I get started. I have the bug folding tool, a soldering iron, some soldering fluid and soldering tin wire and a tile to cut the PE off. But looking at the instructions, It looks like I have to cut away a few parts (dark red) and sand away a tonne of details off the fenders (pinkish). Think I need a Dremel for that. Tried cutting with the hobby knife but some of the details a too thick to slice through dependently. Was wondering if any had a suggestion for Dremels or hand drills or other tools I would need to do the PE and Resin kit properly.

Anyone know where to get radiomen and medics tending to wounded in the style of 1944 Normandy? I can't find one that's US Army. I find paratroopers or ones in the Ardenne forest or otherwise wearing the wrong type of clothing/equipment for a 1944 US Army in Overlord...

Anyone know of a kit that has US Army wounded in 1944 uniform? One with a medic tending or pulling him to safety is preferred.

Thanks for the advice everyone. I was hoping this would be a short project, but it seems I was wrong on that front. I'm guessing a lot of scratch building will be nessesary, in which case this will be the first scratch-building project I've ever done. Let me finish up the US Army figures first and then I will come back to the post to update on my progress.

What was wrong with the turret/hull not joining?

The camo and weathering excellent, the figures are a great touch. The headlight looks like someone may have accidentally bent it. And with the tracks fixed up it's pretty near damn professionally made.

I agree with Sairou, a wash would being out the details and make the panel lines pop.

Sorry, I was looking for US Army, I forgot to mention that in the OP. I did order this portable radio set from verlinden, but sadly, there's no handset for that radio.

I dont see any medics or radiomen in those search results

I can't seem to find any model figures in 1/35th scale that represent US Army medics and portable radiomen for a bocage Normandy diorama I'm working on. Any help? Thanks.

I'm new, so i only have a few (11 figures) 1/35th and 1/72 scale. And I gotta tell you, I hate the stuff. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother replying. I hate it that much. with brush it's impossible, old coats pretty much fly off when the next coat is applied. Personally, I just spray the skin down with the airbrush first thing then add all the other colors next. I'm thinking of using oilpaints for skin tone next time.

Hi, I'm thinking of building my first diorama of an M5 stuart bulldozing through a hedgerow with infantry following up using the tank as cover. The stuart is done, the infantry and the base is not. I'm not sure where to start or common pitfalls to avoid. Any suggestions or tips would be great. thanks.