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Jon Bryon

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Everything posted by Jon Bryon

  1. I've spent a good few hours on these kits today, and progress is good, although not that exciting to look at! I think I'll divide this post up into the individual models. Apologies for the poor image quality; one of my LED bulbs failed and I'm going to have to start to use a tripod for the in-progress shots so I can get a longer exposure and a decent depth of field. 1. A-4E: The fuselage is basically now done and the intakes have been added, but not smoothed in. Rear fuselage insert on its way to being blended in to the fuselage, and the white plasticard 'cover' behind the exhaust has been faired in: When painting the intake interiors with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 White I took the opportunity to spot prime the upper fuselage seam, which is looking pretty good: With the wing temporarily fitted in place and the intakes added. Next steps will be fairing in the intakes: 2. A-4L Superglue added as a filler around the rear fuselage insert. I hate this piece. Spot priming the upper fuselage seam with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 White: Intakes added: Spot priming the rear fuselage insert. Marks indicate some more work is required. You can also see the plasticard cover behind the exhaust fitted and sanded down for this airframe. 3. A-4H Areas marked out that need removing/filling for the H model: Nose now sorted: Superglue in place as a filler ready for sanding out tomorrow (hopefully!): 4. TA-4J: Fuselage has been glued together with super glue and awaits the joints being sanded down next week: And finally: Intakes for the H and J still need to be fitted once their fuselages have been cleaned up: Wings are now all glued together with Mr Cement S and will be cleaned up in due course: That's it for now. It's all looking very grey, and will do for some time as construction continues. Thanks for looking Jon
  2. This is why it's a good idea to keep all the spare parts. Here are all my spare rear fuselage inserts from the nine Hasegawa A-4s I've made/am making: The reason this is useful is that all those little 'nubs' (each part has two of them) are easily lost from the insert and from the fuselage parts during sanding. With all these spares I can remove those nubs on the kit I'm building, attend to all the seams, and then replace the nubs with spares sliced from parts first. Obviously I try and slice them from the kit first, but I need a good source of spares to make up for those that get lost, or get damaged when slicing them off, etc. Here's one of the replacements in place: The fuselage of the A-4H is now together and my focus is repairing the seams on the L and H. The brown areas circled are for removal for the Israeli H: So here's where I stand at the moment. The E has been rescribed and has some thin white plastic card glued in place behind where the exhaust will sit to cover the seam in this area. Thanks for looking Jon
  3. This may not have been the best choice for an inaugural WIP! Progress worth sharing will be slow as everything has to be done four times. I've already built 5 Hasegawa A-4s in the past, and so I am well aware of many of the issues. The kits are nice, but depend heavily on inserts to cater for variations between all the different versions. In my experience, nearly all these inserts do not fit nearly as well as they should. The nose for the A-4E is pretty much done. That lump in front of the windscreen took a while to get into shape; we'll see later how it looks against the windscreen. The joints don't look great in the bare plastic because the super glue leaves a black line, but the joint is invisible and soon rescribing in the lost detail will commence. Here's the fuselage spine for the A-4E. Again, the joints look a mess but it's all smooth. You will have to see the photos of this area when the thing is finished to believe me! The insert at the base of the front of the tail fin is too narrow and I have not finished the joints here yet. The navigation light mount is difficult to sand around and again there will be a lot of detail to rescribe in this area. This is the tail of the A-4E. That large semi-circular insert is always a difficult fit, being a bit too narrow. There is a lot of detail to try and preserve and some to replace. The joints are not perfect here by any stretch of the imagination and I will try and get away with rescribing some of the lost panel lines to hide the worst of it. The airbrakes are a tight fit and I intend to leave these undressed as they often stand out in photos of the real thing. More inserts are visible here. I am not too worried about the centreline seam as this will largely be covered by the tailhook. The tip of the tail is a separate part that's also too narrow: So the E model is coming along. I've started on the L as well, beginning to deal with the joints around the hump and nose. I'm remaining positive that what looks a mess now will all come good in the end: That's all for now. It will be more of the same for a while! Cheers Jon
  4. A couple of hours' work before I head to bed. The weight has been added to the noses, using a combination of steel bearings and small lead balls. I think the latter is sold as ballast for model train rolling stock to weight it down; somewhat cheaper than buying Liquid Gravity. It's all superglued in there: (A-4H and TA-4J) The fuselage halves are glued together with thick superglue on all visible joints. Invisible joints, like the bottom of the fuselage which will be covered by the wing, and the rudder trailing edge, are glued with Extra Thin liquid cement. I use superglue because it's the only reliable way I have found to eliminate ghost seams and get invisible seams. It's certainly pretty brutal to start with and you have no working time for alignment: (A-4L) Work then starts on sanding down the joints. With kicker, this can happen minutes after the fuselages have been joined. I use Infini sanding sponges and sticks as my main weapons of choice, with plenty of other sanders on hand as required (especially those made by Wave). This part is now actually my favourite part of the whole modelling process: eliminating the seams. Here's a start on the upper nose of the A-4E: This is all then polished through the various grits to end up with a reflective surface. I go from 400 or 600 up through 800, 1000, 1500, 2500 and then the 4000 buffer. The joint can then be held up to a light for inspection. It looks like there is still a gap, because the super glue is acting as a filler and a darker colour than the plastic. However, there is no seam at all and this can be visually seen when held to an acute angle with a bright light. I then check the seam, as I have done here, by dragging a needle under its own weight back and forth across the seam. If it catches or moves, you know you still have work to do. If the needle moves smoothly across the joint along its length, then it will be invisible. What I love about this process is that it takes minutes and is 99% accurate at determining the quality of the seam work; I almost never have to readdress any seams after the primer is down because the inspection work is all done at this stage: (A-4E; the hole is meant to be there) That's it for tonight. Now there will be many happy hours of sanding down seams, to be followed by rescribing all the lost detail in. Cheers Jon
  5. A fair amount of work today without much to show for it. The closing of the fuselage halves is close...just mustn't forget the nose weight! I haven't got time to spend on detail that won't be seen, so the cockpits are pretty basic (the canopies will all be closed) and the exhausts, whilst painted, are really there just to fill the hole. The intake trunkings have been done but the photos don't show how white the trunking is and how aluminium the fan blades are.
  6. This is my first WiP thread. I am not sure how it will develop. It will definitely end up with four finished aircraft, but how well I chart my progress to that final goal remains to be seen; I'm yet to see how much work is involved in keeping one of these updated... The aim is to make Hasegawa's 1/48 A-4E as this (stock from the kit with Fight's On decals): and their 1/48 A-4L as this (kit markings): and their A-4H as this (kit markings): and finally their TA-4J as this (kit markings): At this stage the plan is to make them all OOTB. Thus far I have made some progress with the cockpits. For the first time I've tried painting with magnification, in this case using a x10 hand lens from my distant geologist past. Not ideal, but it was a revelation. The grey is Mr Color 317 and the black is Lifecolor. I've done the painting with an old paintbrush; with a decent brush and slower drying paint, this could definitely be a lot better. However, since all the canopies will be closed and the view into the cockpits is very restricted (at least in the single seaters), this will be adequate for now. The cockpits are very small - even the most zoomed-out image here is larger than real life. That's it for today. Next goal is to get the cockpits finished, the interior intakes done and the fuselages all together. Progress may be a little slow... Thanks for looking. Jon
  7. Going by the sounds of it, you can't fix the omission, so I guess it's something inside the cockpit like...missing mirrors? Missing inner canopy framing? Ejection seat handles should have black stripes? (These are guesses; I don't know if these things should be there). Jon
  8. I ordered the Modelsvit P-51H (which was an excellent price) and had similarly good service. All arrived fine with a free pen and sprue cutter (I think he was running a free gift promo at the time). Like the OP I was a bit nervous, having never heard of this trader before and being burned by Final Touch/Ess Jay Models back in the day (also hailed from Essex, I think). Dave Coley's prices are very good and I will keep an eye on his stock in future. Jon
  9. Thanks for your comments everyone. Bummer about the prop! Cheers Jon
  10. Last one for 2019: Airfix's 1/48 Seafire F.XVII with markings from the kit. Only additions are an Eduard PE harness and Master gun barrels (I know, I know, wrong for shape for a Seafire...). Paint is MRP (top) and Mr Color (underneath). First attempt at hairspray chipping and first real attempt at using oils over a flattish clear coat. Full build article and more photos here: https://jonbryon.com/airfix-1-48-supermarine-seafire-f-xvii/ Comments welcome & thanks for looking. Jon
  11. You can do it! Just take your time with the tail and rescribing in the detail. Jon
  12. I did not remove much plastic and just did the whole thing with Milliput. I don't think I went that far up the tail. In the subsequent sanding I would have removed some of the plastic base. Jon
  13. Yep, that's what I did. Only technique tip I can offer is to rescribe in the Milliput using a razor saw. My modelling has improved a lot since then, so the final model was not great, but that joint did tidy up rather well Good luck! Jon
  14. I used this set back in 2015 on the two-seater and found exactly the same problem. I wrote about it here: https://jonbryon.com/mig15uti-html/ In the end I used Milliput Superfine White to smooth the transition and it looked like this when done: I agree that it's not worth the effort. Jon
  15. New fuselage correction set by AMUR Reaver: http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/310913-which-148-su-17-fitter/&tab=comments#comment-2983960 $11 + P&P sounds good. Jon
  16. F-22 in 2009. That GR.5 is bound to be popular. I guess when I bought it in 2005 as a 'Limited Edition' it wasn't so limited after all...the boxart is identical and I assume the contents will be too. Jon
  17. I actually think that, compared to the 1990s for example, the current variety in the various magazines has never been better in terms of scale, era and subject matter. WWII is also much less dominant, which I think is a good thing. However, the exception in my opinion is MAI, which I have lost patience with and won't renew my subscription. By their own admission in the latest issue, they've published three articles on the Eduard 1/48 Tempest in the past calendar year, and the number of P-51s, Eduard Spitfires and Fw190s that have featured becomes boring very quickly. Even worse, they've taken to republishing the *same [preview] articles* (!) more than once, with the excuse that 'we thought you'd like to read this again." Well no, I wouldn't, because I already have paid to read it once and it's still in the loft. And before anyone advises I do my bit to help out, some time ago the editor put out a request to hear from potential contributors; I emailed him and heard nothing back. Jon
  18. Collectaire made one, I presume in the 1990s, and Czech Model came along with an injection-moulded one in 2002. The current definitive T-28 in 1/48 is that made by Roden. Jon
  19. Thanks. I have the Crowood book and have seen that image of SX277. What is TSS? Jon
  20. They certainly were! Fortunately Hannants sold them off at a 75% discount in 2003, which is when I bought this one Jon
  21. Well here's a kit I've not seen finished very often: Sky Models' 1/48 Beech T-34C Turbo Mentor. It was produced in 1999 and they never made any decals for it. This is finished in a mix of Mr Color and Hataka laquers with (rather inaccurate) decals from the later Czech Model kit. It's all resin aside from the poorly made vacformed canopy. It's rather crude, and one of the most challenging paint schemes I've ever undertaken, and I've written an extensive build article here: https://jonbryon.com/sky-models-1-48-beechcraft-t-34c-turbo-mentor Any comments welcome Jon
  22. Good points. I've played around with the contrast and brightness quite a lot, and I'm convinced both wingtips are painted the same way. I guess I'm leaning towards Dark Slate Grey in the absence of any better options. Thanks Jon
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