Jon Bryon
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Posts posted by Jon Bryon
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On 6/7/2023 at 12:05 PM, dov said:
@Jon Bryon, I worked as you told me.
With setting fluid from Microscale.
Oh wonder, it worked quite well. On my first project after discussion, on the Su-34 in 1/48.
And now again on my Bf-109 Emil from Wingsy.
I am well astonished.
The area where the decal position is, gets SET with a brush, and after placing, water is soaked and the decal corroect possioned.
Than, SET again all over.
That's it.
Workes well.
Thank you!
Happy modelling
Here's a decal I applied about four hours ago. It's from Furball and printed by Cartograf. The model is in 1/48 so the national insignia is about 16mm long.
Decal applied to matt paint which had been rendered with matt oil paint. No clear coat.
Decal left in a small puddle of Mr Mark Setter (not the Neo version).
Decal not touched - no removal of excess Setter, no use of a cotton bud or paper towel or brush. Just left floating in the Setter.
No solvents.
This is what it's done:
Jon
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18 minutes ago, Duncan B said:
Also note that your F-4G is carrying the earlier type of drop tanks (produced by McDD IIRC as opposed to Sargent Fletcher).
Duncan B
Thanks for highlighting that. I don't hang ordnance on my models, so fortunately can avoid the issue
Jon
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2 hours ago, Creepy Pete said:
I can see stars 'n bars on the top of the wings of camouflaged A-4's and RA-5C's, and on this F-4 coming home after the 1966 USS Kitty Hawk cruise as well:
I'd say it's pretty likely yours had it too.
That's fantastic - thank you!
Jon
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1 hour ago, Hook said:
I can't see a national marking on the upper left wingtip on this one:
https://pbs.twimg.com/media/Fb3vWeDXgAI4EDh.jpg
Cheers,
Andre
Indeed. But what is it that's visible just under the rudder?
Cheers
Jon
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Hello all,
I am modelling this airframe:
As you can see, there are no stars 'n' bars under the wing. Question is, where there any on the upper wing? None of the photos I can find of green F-4Gs (mostly from VF-213) show the upper port wing.
Anyone know?
Many thanks
Jon -
5 hours ago, VMA131Marine said:
I just got a copy of the Mi-4 kit from ModelsForSale. They still have the -4 and the -4A in stock.
Can't thank you enough - and over 20% cheaper than the Hannants price (whenever it arrives) and free postage!
Cheers
Jon
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On 4/30/2022 at 5:48 PM, Homebee said:
Something really new in quarter scale as unexpected ! Trumpeter is to release in late June a 1/48th Mil Mi-4 "Hound" kit - ref. 05816
Source: http://www.trumpeter-china.com/index.php?g=home&m=article&a=show&id=232&l=en
Box art
V.P.
This kit has been out for ages and, despite being available elsewhere in Europe, has not yet made it to the UK. Anyone know why?
Jon
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19 minutes ago, dov said:
How do you position them?
Rokets? Bands on them in color or dashes, USAF and Russian?
Pylons?
Stencils on surfaces, which you can not keep horizomtal for hours? In between engines of Su.27?
Hmmm..
Happy modelling
I always apply decals to a horizontal surface (or as close as I can):
I will paint all bands.
I find the decals are usually pretty static and don't move about.
Jon
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18 minutes ago, dov said:
My analysis on this:
@Jon Bryon, you refer to only one specific product. Mr Mark Setter (not the Neo version)
This limitates your procedure to one product. Which even may not be available for everyone!
What occures with the Neo Setter? Does it not work?
What occures with Microsol Setting solution?
What occures with the other Setting products, if used?
Before letting anyone else on the track of your marvelous procedure, you should consider this question.
You could also put it this way: Your process is currently not ready for series production.
Or in Flying Terms: You fly a prototyp, the a/c is far from operative!
So, high risk, if you are not an expert!
Happy modelling
I also use Microsol, Daco Red, UMP Strong, UMP Extra Strong and Mr Mark Softer (again, not the Neo version) as needed. This is to aid conformation with gross surface features, such as panel lines, rather than anything to do with silvering.
But generally I find the Mr Mark Setter (MMS) to be quite powerful. Here is a 1/48 Airfix Walrus instrument panel with the kit decal. The decal was just left in a puddle of (MMS) and left alone directly on the paint and no other products applied. There is no silvering despite the matt black paint and it conforms very well to all the raised detail. Just a shame I didn't get the alignment quite right 🤪
Jon
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6 hours ago, dov said:
Since I spoiled more than one model by silvering, therefore I learned.
After a big lot of trying, different products of varnishing etc. I found
this way as mentioned above as the sole safe way.
No matter which decal sheet you use!
Generally more variables increases the risk of something going wrong. Yes, It may happen.
Variables can become constants, if you choose the same procedure often.
The variable by itself are decals. Some are excellent, some are lausy.
With my way shown, I can get along with all sort of decals, if they do not fall apart by itself.
Tell me, @Jon Bryon, how do you actually work with decals? I have seen your website. Excellent!
Your method is new for me! Very new. I will try it & tell you.
On my Su-34 in 1/48. On weapons first only!
Happy modelling
I don't really know what to say. Below are examples of decals applied directly to paint with no gloss or polishing (MRP, Mr Color, Hataka lacquers, Akan lacquers). All are in 1/48.
I generally use a lot of Mr Mark Setter (not the Neo version) and don't wick any water or decal solution away. I find the adhesive fills the gaps and the solution reduces the elastic strength of the decal to close to zero so the microscopic perturbations are not an issue. It seems to work for me, I think
Jon
Phantom FG.1:
RF-84F:
Spitfire Mk.16:
Be-4:
Spitfire PR.19 (the serial is airbrushed and intentionally misaligned, as per the original):
F-2A:
F-CK-1C:
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56 minutes ago, dov said:
To the post above:
This is a lucky result, once. This decal quality from Revell is not a standard at all!
Apparently I'm so lucky I should play the lottery 😄 Plenty more examples on my website...
Generally more variables increases the risk of something going wrong. I prefer to cut out the gloss and can't see why a beginner couldn't either.
Jon
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27 minutes ago, dov said:
Hallo
Just to add my knowledge of 30 years of aircraft modelling:
Whenever you use a flat paint, you never can apply a decal on such a surface, so that it looks fine.
Old Revell decals applied directly to matt paint (1/48 Bo105 and silver at Telford):
Since discovering a gloss coat is not required, I'm generally happier 🙂
Jon
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I tend to apply decals directly to the paint without any clear coats in between and let decal softeners do their work. I usually then add the clear layer over the top to get the sheen I want. Clear coats rarely damage decals, although I did apply Gunze GX100 very heavily over some Academy decals a couple of years ago and they wrinkled - completely my fault.
Jon
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It's a shame it can't be pre-ordered through the UK warehouse with UK RM postage. I'll wait till it's available through there - postage is much cheaper.
Jon
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Just now, 100SQN said:
Tried to PM you regarding the QB F4 seats but it's saying you can't receive messages.
Maybe your inbox is full ?
I think the previous message filled it up and...sadly they wanted the seats.
Apologies.
Jon
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QB F-4 seats added.
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On 4/29/2023 at 10:01 PM, Doccur said:
Absolutely amazing! I would love to know how you achieved the faded finish on the EDSG
Ash
So would I!
Seriously, I think it's more by accident than design. I started with a black base and then mottled MRP EDSG over the top of it in a patchy manner. Then there's some post-shading with this paint plus or minus small quantities of black and white, and also some mottling with Mr Color Dark Sea Grey (which is very similar in tone to the MRP EDSG but different in hue).
Jon
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8 hours ago, CJP said:
Hi Jon - I am intrigued by your use of UV clear resin something I have never used - does it affect the clear parts of a canopy like CA? - it sounds a like it needs to be handled with care & do you need a special light/pen to cure?
CJP
I've never had it affect any plastic. I bought a bottle off Amazon and you need a UV light (I bought a UV torch) to cure it. It's not perfect - never cures quite hard enough for me and even when cured has a greasy film over the top that means sanding and polishing are compulsory - but I find it extremely useful and use it on most builds now for things like instrument panel dials and airframe lights. I've also used it successfully as a filler for clear parts, but that's a bit more tricky.
HTH
Jon
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9 hours ago, SharkOwl said:
From a USA citizen I am a little bit surprised of your comment jpk.
a.
The Kittyhawk kit is really not up to the 2023 very high-quality standard of the international aircraft kit industry.
b.
To this date, the US Navy will currently receive 273 x F-35C and the US Marine Corps will received 67 x F-35C in
addition to their planned 353 x F-35B.
I bet that more F-35C could be added to these current orders.
The potential market of an eventual Tamiya 1/48 scale F-35C is most probably very high.
C.
By the way, I am 68 yo, plastic aircraft modeller for 55 years (85 % 1/48 scale) and Flight Simulator pilot for 20 years.
Then, I am not only making 1/48 scale kits but I am also flying them on PC currently by the Microsoft Flight Simulator
MSFS 2020 software.
And I am even already flying the F-35A, F-35B and F-35C on MSFS 2020.
😎
SharkOwl from Canada
Take a look here about the F-35C on MSFS 2020 :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rbJBgRf26s
He just means no model manufacturer appears to be showing any interest in making a model of the C (unlike the A and B). KH are the only company to attempt it and there are none announced.
Jon
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24 minutes ago, Mark V said:
Excellent finish all around. Weathering is really good. Congrats on getting the canopies to fit well in the closed positions. Kudos for blending in the center canopy bow (between fore and aft) with the fuselage. There is no seam there on the real jet. It's very difficult for most of us to get that detail correct, myself included.
Thanks Mark. They are a difficult fit, and I dealt with it by removing all the seams with CA and then rescribing. Pretty tense stuff!
Cheers
Jon
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Thank you all for your comments. They are much appreciated and I've enjoyed reading all of them.
Jon
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- Popular Post
Hello all,
I finished this yesterday after a couple of months working on it: Hasegawa's 1/48 Phantom FG.1. I actually used the 111 Sqn/Black Mike boxing, but wanted an early RN airframe, so managed to get hold of some Hasegawa decals from the 2008 Ark Royal edition. They weren't great, so most of the larger markings have been masked and airbrushed, including me replicating the incorrect letter spacing in the ROYAL NAVY legend from the decals. The roundels are from Aeromaster. I chopped the serial up so I could model 010/XV588, which was not provided.
There are a few modifications - Quickboost seats, Aires wheels (painted the wrong colour!), rebuilt fuel vent mast into a 'v' shape, anti-collision light cut out and made from clear UV resin, and braces between the splitter plates and the fuselage sides added from strip styrene. I don't like pylons, and since RN Phantoms often flew at air shows with them removed, decided I could leave them off. Because Hasegawa moulded the recessed detail incorrectly on the underside of the wing leading edge, I also painted this incorrectly.
I enjoyed this build, especially the challenge of the multi-piece canopy and filling the shutlines with CA before rescribing them all. This is the tenth Hasegawa 1/48 Phantom I've made, and hopefully the last.
I hope a full build article will be published in due course. More photos at https://jonbryon.com/hasegawa-1-48-mcdonnell-douglas-phantom-fg-1-2/
Comments welcome and thanks for looking.
Jon
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Vigilante has been sold.
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Vigilante added.
Jon
USN F-4G marking question
in Aircraft Cold War
Posted
Thanks, but I've seen their instructions already. There are no references, so I assume they did the same as Kits-World and guessed.
Cheers
Jon