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Posts posted by avro683
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Tremendous work.
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Invariably wheels down, especially now that so many are available as white metal and therefore stronger.
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Some of us haven't seen the first one yet!
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On 13/11/2016 at 7:25 PM, stever219 said:
AFAIK this kit never had an instrument panel transfer: the dials are on the clear sprue and are inserted into the back of the main panel. You were (are?) supposed to paint the back of the dials black and highlight any raised details on he fronts in white to represent needles and scales as appropriate. Sadly it didn't work too well on my first few attempts (Hurricanes) so you might want to go the Airscale route. I'll be interested to see how you get on as I have one of these just itching to be put together.
Correct. Nightmare!
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47 minutes ago, John_W said:
I recall original kit had a printed "cut out and stick on" instrument panel on the instruction sheet.
As did the Stirling, Lancaster, B17 and others of that size and vintage. Just love those old instructions "Locate and cement pilot, part 1, to seat, part 2, after first painting if desired"!
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10 hours ago, stever219 said:
The design of the outer panels will allow for the cropped tips on the K. 2 with no additional work. The fin bullet is also a separate part, which also suggests a K. 2 is in the offing as the bullet on those was shorter and blunter than the bomber and SR aircraft.
Airfix also credit Andre Tempest and crew on the instructions, current custodian of XL231 at Elvington, and not to include markings in the kit for her in her earlier life might, to some, seem a bit invidious unless she's planned for a future issue of the kit. She can be modelled as a camouflaged Blue Steel carrier simply by changing the serial numbers from XL189 and using the remainder of her markings. ('189 also deserves replicating as Bob Tuxford's jet on Black Buck 1 in which he won his AFC.)
i've got one question though: to me the supernumary seat (crew chiefs, instructor, trapper, etc for the use by) seems too close to the door. Should this be further over towards the starboard side, closer behind the co-pilot's seat?
I was wondering the same thing.
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Indeed Dave but as is mentioned above the wing tips and ailerons (together) are separate parts. I just think it is a shame that the fin root hasn't been moulded separately too as then virtually all marks could be modelled.
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On 04/01/2013 at 6:34 PM, tomprobert said:
Let me guess... Bit O'Lace?
Great progress so far - this is one of my favourite aircraft so will watch with great interest.
There's some great colour images of her here: http://www.bates-r-us.org/abitolace/
Just one thing if I may... I don't think the anti-dazzle area in front of the cockpit is actually yellow, it's actually just very faded olive drab - faded to an almost light tan colour. This was common on high-time aircraft that were bleached in the sun. The same anti-dazzle panels were present on the inboard surfaces of the engines too - but oil and exhaust stains turned these a murky brown colour.
I hope you don't mind me pointing that out...
Tom
That link has a virus attached to it.
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On 09/04/2016 at 11:27 AM, 71chally said:
I don't seem to have that on the wheels in my kit, I do have mild sinking in the upper wing halves at the flap hinge line, and some in the stb'd fuselage half near the upper alignment pins.
I got that on my Airfix MR.2. The upside of that I suppose is the shrinkage should be easier to fill as there are no "rivets".
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On 14/11/2016 at 2:35 PM, Dave Fleming said:
Have these been confirmed yet?
Pictures in the 2017 calendar given with the recent Airfix Modellers World would certainly suggest that.
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Really good work. I used those markings on the Classic Airframes B2.
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At the set tour in Slough I went to on 12 March. I was a backer for the Thunderbirds 1965 project; there was an invitation for people to visit the set before the complete industrial estate is raised to the ground for redevelopment. Shades of Terror in New York City!
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Depends what you mean by "blinkin' big" Aoshima do a 13" version:

(the cockpit windows are too high up in the nose however
)Then there is the Imai 9" version which is the one I used in my launch dio last year

(which has some shape issues, ie under the nose should be flat rather than curving upwards)
Then there is another Aoshima which is often branded as Carlton nowadays which is 8" long - this is distinguishable as it is open cockpit windows and a nicely detailed cockpit OOB. This has a good shape and also comes with an optional grab arm that can be attached to the pod! It also has some detailing on the inner faces of the Pod storage bay.
Then there is the kit Nigel is using which is about 6-7" long and comes with the 3 Elevator cars. (It suffers from the same shape issues at the 9" Imai)
Here are the 13" 9" and 8" next to each other

Now of course if you want a REALLY big model, there is the Imai 22" kit of which there are currently 3 available on eBay at prices for $350, $380 and ahem $1100


There is also a large garage kit in fibreglass that is "studio scale", ie about 3 feet long...
I saw one of those in the flesh. It's magnificent.
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The original shade of green used on Thunderbird 2 was a bespoke mix. When they ran out, it couldn't be replicated exactly, hence the different shades.
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You mean like this?

Your meteor is looking good Jonners.
Julien
That's very similar Julien.
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The Mark 1 Meteor book has views of the Duxford and Hendon F.8s. I can't remember which was which, but one of them has red handles, the other yellow/black.
One of the close-up pictures I have of a Meteor seat has a label "pull red handle". I must admit to never having seen that before.
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This months Airfix magazine makes for excellent reading for anyone building this kit. Superb build review, along with an excellent pictorial walk around of WH364, cutaway drawing and an article covering the history of the F.8. Recommended.
It is good but I'm not sure that the colour of the ejection seat cord is correct. I thought the early ones were red.
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Nice work Jonners!😁
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There is a bit of warpage on mine too - but as said its not a huge issue. I actually felt is wasn't even worth mentioning - but It's good to point these things out.
My only area of concern at present is the fit of the nose cone - but that's just based on dry fits - so don't get worried yet!! LOL
Jonners
And considerable on mine.
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Hannants obviously expect the kit to sell very well. Three brand new Xtradecal sheets are advised as future releases.
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HI Chaps.
The 3 Meteors will be built to show off the upcoming Marmaduke Press decals - which I must stress are not printed yet. The plan - is for two models to show 4 schemes ( ie 1 per side) with the 3rd being "proper" LOL.
Prior commitments over the Bank Holiday mean I may not be able to do much for the next few days.
What I will say about the kit though is that there must be plans for an FR9 on the cards as the nose camera windows are contained on the clear sprue, and at some point the kit must surely be re-released with underwing armament- as the flashed over holes for RPs are there to see on the lower wing inside
Both canopies styles are in there too.
The ARN-6 radio compass housing for RAAF Meteors is on the clear sprue too, and 2 styles of aileron are in the box - the early singe tab projecting versions, and the later 2 tab flush style - and of course both big and small intakes.
Jonners
I noticed that there are two types of canopy too. Potential for earlier marks?
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Wings of the Luftwaffe is a very useful book for German Aircraft flown by Eric Brown. Lots of photos and cockpit detail drawings are included.
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Ah, pedals! I'm always happy to talk about pedals!
Those Mk I Marshall pedals are becoming quite collectable these days.
I used to have a CS-2 which I ended up trading in for a bass multi effect unit for the Mrs. I remember really liking it. Maybe if I can find the schematics I'll build a clone for myself.
Slightly off subject although not for this post, there was a very interesting programme on BBC2 recently detailing the work of Jim Marshall. I thought it was fascinating.
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Do you have to drill the holes for windows on the Sundeand too ! Wow what are Italeri thinking

Indeed you do, and there's even more of them.
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Best adhesive for attaching canopies?
in Modelling Tips
Posted
I use Gators Grip. It's PVA with extra, er, grip. Marvellous stuff.