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Everything posted by Jens

  1. I find it most likely that the starboard wing was in the 71/02/65 scheme. Here's my take on it from before decals and masks were available: Jens
  2. Those Falcon rails are mostly just lumps of plastic. However, AFAIK they are the only ones available in that scale. Beware that 'EJ Kai' kits are not just standard early F-4Es. They have different wing tips and fin tip (the latter being a seperate part though). I recently put up a lot of my Hasegawa Phantoms (almost all versions) for sale. Postage from Denmark is ridiculous though. Jens
  3. You can get them from Denmark. Jens
  4. It certainly wasn't LGG either. Lima Sidenwinders are/were FS36375 light ghost grey. Jens
  5. FS codes are likely to be more correct than colour names. That said, BS codes are the correct thing to use for (most) British aircraft. As for brush painted aircraft... Good luck replicating brush strokes that do not look out of scale. Jens
  6. The Italeri Phantoms - both 1/72 and 1/48 - have horrible outlines. Something is clearly wrong with them, but I think it's in so many places that it would be a waste of time to correct. Go with the Esci kits if you cannot find the Hasegawa kits. Jens
  7. I always have some Skyhawks in progress so why not join this STGB... I'm in. Jens
  8. This is an interesting and informative thread, since I have the same kit and same e wing conversion set. Jens
  9. Thanks Mike, I really appreciate it. Jens
  10. Thanks for the comments. The kit decals are a bit on the thick side but they behaved well in warm water. Jens
  11. Don't make me need more Drakens! Please! Jens
  12. Thank you for all the positive words. Although used for QRA I still don't count the two Austrian special schemes as operational schemes. That said, I think I have to build the Ostarrichi version some day. I can only think of three operational schemes from Sweden; natural metal, grey and the one I have made here. The splinter scheme is very attractive, but that was only a test. Was there another scheme too? Thanks David. I prefer a more subtle weathering than sometimes seen on models. Perhaps it's my personal knowledge on aircraft maintenance that shines through. The kit decals behaved nicely on both models. The trick is to use hot water - at least it was for me. Jens
  13. Thanks for the comments. The Draken sure is beautiful. It's a pity there are so few operational schemes for it though. Jens
  14. Thank you all for the comments. It's the best looking jet right after the F-4 and the F-104. You're absolutely right! Why on earth didn't I notice that when I checked my reference pictures?! Jens
  15. Although finished a couple of years ago I haven't managed to shoot some decent pictures of my two 1/48 Hasegawa Drakens before now. First one is a J35J in Swedish colours. I painted it with Alclad, Xtracolor and Humbrol. Decals are from the kit itself. The second one is this J35Ö in Austrian colours. I used Xtracolor and kit decals on this one. Jens
  16. If you plan on going to the Jutland peninsula you really should visit the aircraft museum in Stauning (http://flymuseum.dk/visitor-infomation). Also, the Garnisionmuseet in Aalborg (https://www.visitaalborg.com/ln-int/aalborg-defence-and-garrison-museum-gdk596531) should be worth a visit. Jens
  17. It's probably Stoppel Hobby you have found. You won't find a bigger shop in the Copenhagen area, and you won't find one with a broader range of kits and accessories either. It's worth a visit whether you buy anything or not. Jens
  18. Problem is, I already moved them of my two first HB A-6As... Here's the first one: Jens
  19. Thanks. I read somewhere (on ARC perhaps) that the inner wing fences had to be moved on all HB Intruders, so I did that on my first A-6A. Jens
  20. Don't forget to move the inboard wing fences to the correct position. Jens
  21. I didn't really cancel the project. It just got sidetracked like so many other projects before it. That said I have decided to build it as a Tiger Meet F-104S. I recently started drawing correct tiger stripes in order to be able to cut masks for them. The decals provided in the Hasegawa kit are not correct. This is the first test cut (in vinyl, but I will use another project for the real masks). I have adjusted the stripes a bit since then. Jens
  22. Thank you all for the comments. Sorry, I forgot to mention that. It's 1/48th scale - my preferred scale. And thanks. I use Model Master airbrush thinner and a couple of drops of cellulose thinner to make sure the paint dries quickly. I cannot say what the thinning ratio is as it varies from tin to tin. I can usually judge it from the type of bubbles in the cup (I put the finger on the airbrush crown and blow air back to mix the paint and thinner. I never measure the amounts I use. Jens
  23. Thank you for all the comments. That is right, Bill. I have a few single-seat adversary Scooters too, and I have more underway. With so many cool schemes it is hard to choose which ones to make. First of all I make sure the paint is thinned adequately - the ratio varies from paint to paint and from tin to tin, but I have developed a good 'feel' for it. Then I go real close and slowly build up the demarcation lines bit by bit while checking pictures to see where to paint (I always do my best to get the demarcation lines as correct as possible). The pressure is around 2 bar, but I use a double-action airbrush (Iwata HP-C Plus) so I am able to adjust the pressure while painting. It usually takes a couple of hours to paint one colour if the scheme is as complex as this one - and I often paint two or more colours in a row. Jens
  24. Last week I managed to finish this Hasegawa TA-4F Skyhawk in adversary markings. It is one of several adversary Skyhawks I have built, and I started it more than five years ago. It was a straight forward build but it just got sidetracked by lots of other models. I sprayed it freehand with Xtracolor enamels and used Fightertown decals for the markings. This is the company she will be joining: Jens
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