Toryu
-
Posts
2,955 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Media Demo
Posts posted by Toryu
-
-
18 hours ago, Bobby No Mac said:
For the wheels I used my trusty Helix circle template
Smart idea! Worth copying if I get your ©️
18 hours ago, Bobby No Mac said:There's a noticeable difference between the red over the pink primer and the red over the silver..
I just made the same experience with my yellow wings over white primer and over white (unprimed) plastic surface... Just a small colour variance.
Great progress btw!
-
1
-
-
Beautiful! A Black Widow in OD - not often seen here.
-
1
-
-
Great finish, Alain, on this handsome aircraft - actually one of the very few British fighters that attract me (don't tell anybody at Britmodeller!).
-
3
-
-
Good luck with the missing parts. You could put the finished body on a trailer, though, pretending it‘s being taken to a garage.
-
3
-
1
-
-
For the red you might try Gunze (Mr. Hobby) 327 (FS 11136) if you have it handy.
-
1
-
-
Impressive build of an impressive flying boat (in the true sense of the word). What a fancyful concept! It looks like a lot of fun to replicate it as a model. I like the open engines with the mechanic.
-
Nice models Dennis @Corsairfoxfouruncle
The F9C in particular. There is no 1/48 kit afaik, maybe a vacuform?
-
1
-
-
That‘s a very nice and well-built P-51. Just a small note, if I may: The prop cuffs at the blade root were made of rubber and therefore wouldn‘t have metal scratches.
Cheers, Michael
-
3
-
-
The regrettable lack of adjustment pins demands some makeshift solution. Several metal pins and corresponding holes were worked in to support weak connections (see red circles). The wheel housing arches had to be reamed because their own wheels wouldn't fit (!), and axles were added for the wheels to be rotatable to a flattened seat lateron.
Instead of using either of the P-6E wings I cannibalised the lower surfaces from the Lindberg F11C kit that I held in reserve. They match the new centre section (see step 2) much better. Next, all components were primed - grey underneath blue areas and white for yellow areas.
-
5
-
-
Very inspring detail work. You clearly prove that nothing is more important for planning a build than a deep understanding of your subject.
-
1
-
-
Excellent modelling and landscaping - looks great!
-
Great choice Steve. It's such a nice airplane!
I built a P-35 (w/o -A) here in 2020 but from Hobbycraft. I hope you have lesser issues with the Academy kit.
Cheers Michael
-
1
-
-
Superb finish and photography! A pleasure to see your strive for realistic modelling.
-
1
-
-
The place holder to get the gap right is a good idea. I may borrow it for my P-6E which has interplane struts of wrong length.
-
1
-
-
Sorry, forgot the wheel wells and covers - underside colour, i.e. natural metal here, like on most late-war IJN aircraft (and JAAF, too).
-
1
-
-
Superbly built and finished. Wonderful!
-
1
-
-
Hi Bobo,
I'd go with the first picture (same as in Mikesh: Japanese Aircraft Interiors). At this stage of the war resp. prototype development there seems no uniform internal colour coat anymore. The parts were taken as they came from subcontractors. I see mostly internal grey-green as described by Millman, some natural metal around the floor / foot pedals, a black instrument panel and and a dark green seat as typically used for radios etc. The yellow and green zinc-chromate was most likely added by the US preservers after disassembling and re-assembling. These colours reflect what Mikesh reports about the Shinden interior (ibid. p.179).
Cheers, Michael
-
1
-
1
-
-
That looks great! I got the earlier version (F3F-1) in my stash, and seeing your progress on this attractive model I'm tempted to add another yellow-wing to my series. But there's no time, time, time...
-
1
-
-
Pink primer - nice idea! Your yellow looks spot-on, not the strong orange-yellow often used by modellers and more associated with Air Corps wings. I'm using the same technique for the upper wing - first attach and rig the lower half and then close the upper half.
-
11 hours ago, Troy Smith said:
Thank you, it's just practice, I was trying to some of these things 45 years ago!
Ah yes, I cut my first plastic as a teenager in the early seventies (removing engine panels from Revell 1/32 kits 😀). After a lifetime I'm now quite confident and none of my models comes out of the box - lots of surgery and scratch-building internally and externally. My GB entry is just another example.
17 hours ago, Toryu said:printing drawings to scale,
My method is easy: Paste a JPG or PDF snapshot of the drawing into Powerpoint, via the function 'size' (right-click on the picture) you can determine the dimensions. If your picture is cut exactly to the fuselage length or wing span you can insert the correct scale measurement, if it's larger you may approach the right size through a series of test prints.
Nowadays I always try to find a credible scale drawing in order to check the parts' validity.
Cheers, Michael
-
1
-
-
You use a lot of techniques that I'm trying to apply, too, Troy. Scratch-building cockpits, printing drawings to scale, drilling holes, deepening troughs etc. You do this very well!
-
1
-
-
Nice work on my favourite parts - propellers and instruments panels, seriously! 🤫
-
1
-
-
Step 3 ‒ Cockpit see first post at the top.
-
7
-
-
Looks great! I'm very impressed by these Japanese submarines, and your model with the small Aichi M6A1 on board is a nice tribute.
-
1
-
1/48 Lindberg Gloster Gladiator CHINESE Air Force 2909.
in Ready for Inspection - Aircraft
Posted
Such a beautiful model, Tommy! I like the CAF series that you're building, and I share your enthusiasm for vintage kits - going to make a few myself this year. Click the picture below and you'll see that a Hawk III is in the pipeline.
For this reason: Which colour did you use for the green?
Cheers, Michael