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Kov1985

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  1. Only on the starboard side. I can see an outer cannon on port.
  2. It definitely does. I haven’t seen any of those pics before, and I’ve spent an unhealthy amount of time looking at Corsair photos. That makes a bit more sense taping them up for transit. that last pic is good one of a C, Okinawa no doubt. And it’s good to see the 8 rocket stubs there. Opens up my build options a bit. thanks for the reply, cheers
  3. Cheers everyone. I think I might just make mine without the tape. Now I do see the chain link ports in that one behind. Thanks for pointing that out. The tape still doesn’t make sense to me though. I get protecting the mechanism from salt spray (can’t imagine anything else affecting it on a carrier deck) for a long term maintenance routine, but what if some one forgets to remove the tape before flight? That tape was put over panel joins over fuel tanks to stop it from leaking all over the windscreen in flight, from what I can gather it was adhesive medical tape. That’s not popping off from the weight of a lousy brass shell, that’s gonna jam that cannon up 100% of the time. Why would they do it? I’ll have to “wing” it for size and position of those ports. thanks again for your help everyone.
  4. Hello everyone. I’ve got a double build in the pipeline of 2 1/48 Tamiya corsairs. I’ll do a -1D, and a 1C. One landing on a deck, one on the catapult all loaded up. Anyway, the question… Does anyone have any insight on some of the features of an -1C’s underwing? Look at this image. #41 behind has two cannon ejection ports naturally, but #55 in front has what seems like a retrofitted -1D under wing panel with the cannon holes cut. But they’ve gone an taped them over?? Seems like a great way to jam up the cannons if the empties have nowhere to go?? Taping them seems idiotic at first glance, and I haven’t progressed passed that stage in understanding why that is. Also, these birds have only 2 rocket stubs per wing. Was that a standard feature of the 1C, or just this unit? I can’t find any resources or images of 1Cs with 8 rocket stubs. Thanks in advance.
  5. Wow. I hated building this kit, you’re doing a really excellent job with it.
  6. Hello everyone. I recently started work on my 1/32 mustang by tamiya. It’s painfully obvious that the engineering of this kit surpasses almost everything else I’ve built. The only thing that’s comparable to it’s perfect fit and detail are other modern tamiya 1/32 kits. It’ll be a while before any manufacturer tops this for renditions of mustangs in my opinion. obviously I didn’t bother posting anything here until I had a bit of work to show for it. The first couple pages of the instructions entail the engine, cockpit, sidewalls and underside radiator assembly. Usually when I do a plane like this, it’s at this point I discover that I must then hack cockpit floors with a hobby knife here, or apply putty with a shovel there to fill a void of doom with. This kit fit perfectly. And that doesn’t ever happen for me. So kudos to tamiya. I used HGW belts that came with a resin dingy (yellow chair mattress thing). I was putting together the torment of the fabric seatbelts until the dreaded PE “ping” promptly crushed my dreams. I assume you’ve all had the “ping” experience, which was even more awesome when there’s only one copy of that particular buckle. lucky for me I also put an Eduard “look“ instrument panel toward the build, and it came with a pre painted PE seatbelt. So it got used instead of the pinged fabric one. I had to dirty it up a bit with some oil paint but It works. For the floor I sprayed it wood deck tan (tamiya) and then spread a bit of burnt umber oil paint across it with a little piece of packing foam to achieve the plywood look. A few dabs and twists to simulate timber knots, and I was happy with the result. So happy in fact I wasn’t too keen to go and cover it up with black paint for the non stick they had. I reckon a few, particularly the earlier ones like this wouldn’t have had it, but I’m perfectly happy being wrong about that. I like the looks so I left it. Like on the battery box behind the seat, I added a few lead wires here and there to spruce things up a bit. I’m happy with the result, I don’t normally do things like this but the quality of the kit demanded I go the extra mile. for painting, like always I black base with mr surfacer 1500. Then with SMS’s interior green I sprayed lightly with an angle from above to achieve shadowing effects, until I reached an appropriate opacity. For scratches and wear I dry brushed with a light green citadel base paint (“ogre” something or rather). It complements the interior green perfectly. Blast the tamiya clear gloss on for the barracuda stencil decals, enemal panel washes then a hit with Gunze flat coat. quite happy with the result so far and can’t recommend the barracuda placards enough. The whole thing pops and looks awesome with them in place. Worth the time to do. As for the engine I didn’t really go too overboard with it as I don’t really intend on showing it off. But it got mostly the same treatment. hope you enjoy my saga with this build, I’ll post a do things worth posting. Been a top notch kit so far
  7. Haha. Rest assured, I’d rather poke my eyes with blunt sticks than do that.
  8. Now that’s a well done kit. I like the chipping on the underside. Subtle but still very noticeable- just right, a hard balance to reach. I have their -5 in my stash, Might have to add one of these as well to my ridiculous to do list.
  9. This was the first real 1/32 kit I built. The engineering and detail tamiya put into their 1/32 series kits is amazing. The only drama I had was attaching the landing gear right at the end. I’m of the opinion it was completely my fault although I have heard a couple other people comment on the same thing. I used the following aftermarket goodies… HGW belts HGW wet transfers (bit of drama with that, I’ll explain later) Eduard Brassin wheels barracuda placards Kit engine. The engine details though are scratchbuilt with copper wire. obviously took a huge amount inspiration from someone’s work on his and copied his double layer chipping process to the letter. Very happy with result. Also did a sick amount of research into primer colours used on these early gulls, and sprayed accordingly salmon colour along bolts and panel joins, yellow zinc chromate on rivets and in between. And after all that you can barely see it under the very subtle chipping in did. These things didn’t chip that badly compared toJapanesemachines etc. For the tape around the panel joins at the fuel tank I used the kit’s thick stupid decals and didn’t use any solvents. It’s tape, it’s meant to cover the panel lines, not show them off. So luckily the kits decals got used somewhere. barracuda cockpit placards in action. tried pigment for the exhaust smoke. This is the result. Not a fan. At least I know now. scored a win with this one in its category last comp. very happy about that. When using HGW wet transfers, I found out the hard way that best way to go about it is to promptly ignore the instructions where it says, “use mr mark setter or mr mark solvent”. When it came time to remove the film off the decals, I found that the solvent had melted the thing into the clear coat. And film wouldn’t remove. I had to gently and carefully carve off a corner with the scalpel to remove the film. Use water. Remove film and then maybe decal solvent. for the base I took a panel of hard insulating foam (wall and door interiors) from hardware shop, cut out a chunk and surrounded it in balsa panels. I used mig ammo acrylic terrains light earth, and a 1/35 scale field repair shop from a brand I don’t remember for the various items featured. A bit of black oil paint for the oil leak, and burnt umber thinned to stain the balsa. A couple rocks from my driveway for the tire chocks and that was a wrap. highly highly recommended this kit. I’ve got the 1A and the 1D sitting there now it was that good. And they aren’t cheap kits. Completely worth it though.
  10. Hello everyone. once upon a time I stumbled on this image. I decided I had to get involved and allowed it to torment my mortal soul. So finally I bought Eduard’a new tool 190 in A4 plus a few extra goodies such as bronze legs and a resin engine. this was going to be a mission. the kit came to together very well and is evidently very well engineered. A credit to Eduard. The resin engine put up a little more fight, but inevitably succumbed to my mad skills. I highly recommend the bronze legs as well. So now it came time to painting. Obviously this one was a whole new ball game. So I poured over some old photos… I kept reading that these fighters had green and brown camos to start with, had winter white for winter and in spring had the white partially removed to reveal the green and brown beneath. This theory is crap. Obviously they arrive at the front standard 74/75/76, cop with white in winter, and in spring the ground crew come along with green and brown, blast it on as quickly and unlovingly as possible, and that’s the result. So that’s what I did with the process. now the actual colours. Requires test mules. I don’t buy that they were captured Russian colours. Luftwaffe airfields hosted bombers and fighters, and crews to service both. They had repair paints to service everything, and I doubt the ruskies left paint for them to use against them. So I narrowed the options down to rlm 70,71,02 or 70,71,79 sand gelb. I chose the latter. And got to work. 74,75,76, hairspray, white, chipping work, then the extra colours. for this I tore bits of paper (not cut, tear) in all sorts of shapes for masks. I looped little bits of masking tape to hold the mask a couple mm above the surface to achieve the slightly feathered demarcation. happy with that, I proceeded to weather it, final assemble and build a simple base out of a bamboo cutting board, balsa planks, static grass and tamiya fake snow. I gave the diorama a quick shoot of flat white to make it look a little frosty, and I’m done. I added a few lead wires into the engine bay. Inspiration from plasmos YouTube vids full credit. a few splatter marks with a stiff brush and oil paints. That and a few other things and I’m done
  11. Thanks mate. I used AK’s camo putty for the demarcation in camo. Gives it a slight feathering. See original post regarding finishing with semi gloss.
  12. Cheers for the honest feedback mate. Like I said in my original post, this was very much an experiment more than anything else. Regards to the sse on the wing, the typhoon as a little bit going there. I think the actual job is not as glossy as it is in the pics. They did have a bit of shine to them sometimes, and I just didn’t want I bury all of my painful work with a super flat coat. thanks again for the input. Greatly appreciated
  13. Cheers for feedback mate. The Eduard edition of this kit was just a hasegawa reboxed with a few extra resin and PE details. Honestly a painful kit to make but I made it work.
  14. Hi Andy. you’re probably right about the matte finish. The second image is all glossed up for decals and washes etc. I used the semi gloss to finish it. It’s very much on the edge of what I’d deem as acceptable, and I did get it at the right light to photograph it to show it off, so it probably appears here as more glossy here than it actually is. But like you said, I didn’t want to hide my laborious work.
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