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Everything posted by Photon

  1. Sorry, its been a while since I've posted any updates on this. I had lost interest a bit and lately I've had to force myself to work on this. I've made some progress and I think I'm starting to get my mojo back. There are now two wall assemblies. As I started to dry assemble things I discovered that I needed to lengthen the walls on either side. Its a bit of a bodge. Hopefully not too noticeable once painted. I also reworked the bottom vents. I didn't like how they looked compared with the top ones, so I tore them out and replaced them. I think it was worth the effort and heartach
  2. Some progress this weekend after not working on this for a couple months... I cut out and glued up the wall sections that will make up each side of the room. I designed a simple frame to support the wall sections at 45 deg. the backside: I found a decent picture of the Airlock set that showed some details that are hard to see in the film. I'll try to bring some of these details into my model, specifically the row of vents above the padding and the 6 cylindrical shapes behind the racks. I had some
  3. I'm not sure what the dimensions of the set were, but If I had to guess, I'd says my model is about 1:15 scale
  4. Thanks everybody. I really appreciate the encouragement. So, I've been been running my 3D printer solidly, turning out all the "padded bits". I've got the ones that surround the doors pretty much done. These were printed in polystyrene, as I typically do. A bit warmer today ( -1° C), so I sprayed some primer on them, then ran in the house and hit them with the hair dryer. Here they are arranged on a 1:1 CAD drawing: Something that's been troubling me is how I'm going to bend up the tubular racks seen on both walls. I made up a couple of jigs
  5. Thanks everyone! For the indented areas on the doors, I printed some suitable positive shapes in polystyrene. I gave them a quick sand and filled in any low spots with auto body filler. These were positioned on the bed of my vacuum former and a sheet of 0.5mm card was loaded in the frame. Here's the result: The detail is a little soft in places, particularly the two smallest dents in the middle column. I'll have to try a second pull to see if I can get those smaller ones to resolve a little better.
  6. Fantastic paint work! The space suit and helmet look so good. That John Hurt melon is a big improvement over the supplied one, too.
  7. I've got everything cranked up: Depth 10 (deepest), Speed 1 (slowest), Force 33 (max), 2 passes. I've had great results right out of the gate. I'm using the blade that came with it (ratchet blade). I have not tried the deep cut blade yet. The pieces won't be cut clear, you'll need to snap them out by flexing the plastic along the score. They do snap clean, even along curves. This thing is a game changer and pretty cheap @ $119 USD. I
  8. I started my first project of 2019...a scale model of the Nostromo Airlock from the 1979 movie Alien. I will be working from this Ron Cobb concept drawing and a handful of photos and frame grabs from the movie. I have recently bought a "Silhouette Portrait" cutting machine and will be using that to do most of the tricky styrene cutting. I'm starting with the outer doors, which I have cut out the various pieces which will be layered and glued together. The machine is amazing. I never could have cut those out by hand in a mi
  9. Nice work! With oils, I recommend using a piece of cardboard for a palette. It will absorb the linseed oil, allowing the paint to dry faster and with a matte sheen.
  10. Thanks for the thorough explanation. I recently got a Silhouette brand cutter, but I've yet to put it though it's paces. It looks like it will be a game changer. You're really doing some inspirational stuff with yours. Peter
  11. That looks amazing. Great work! How do you get the Sketch-up files into a form your cutting machine can deal with?
  12. A few touch ups are needed here and there and maybe a final weathering pass, but I'm going to call this finished. I used Vallejo acrylics for the base colors and weathered with cheap student grade oil paints and odorless thinners. Thanks everybody for following along. I really appreciate all the encouragement.
  13. Glad to help. Unfortunately, the dial indicator cost more than the printer. I borrow that one from work when I need to level.
  14. Ah, I didn't realize there was much model specific tweaking that had to be done. Very good to know. Do the transparent resins cure better than the opaque ones (i.e. Better UV transmission)? Also, do you do a post-cure? I know some people use those UV nail drying lamps.
  15. That's really amazing. It's crazy how nice it prints for so little money. Is the resin very expensive? I think the Anycubic Photon stands alone at the moment. I don't think it really has any competition at that price. I'm pretty sure I'll be getting one. Thanks for posting.
  16. I really like HIPS. But you're right, not many folks are printing it as a primary material. There's been very little guidance online that I could find to help me through some of the difficulties that I've had. I have a couple of parts on the ship that were printed in resin on a Formlabs printer we have at work. I was able to get the guy who runs it to piggyback my parts in with another job he was doing. Unfortunately, I don't think I can make a habit of that. I may get a DLP printer at some point. I think prices will really start coming down in the next few years.
  17. Thanks! I guess I could have used ABS, but I thought sticking with the same material throughout the build would be better. The plastic card and tubes are HIPS, as are the model kit parts. (HIPS stands for High Impact Polystyrene). The Tamiya cement that I'm using works amazingly well with the filament and it sands beautifully. Sometimes when you glue materials together that have different coefficients of thermal expansion, gaps and seams will show up at the joints down the road. Granted the CTE mismatch between ABS and HIPS is probably negligible, compared with, say, aluminum and oak.
  18. Hey thanks everybody! I really appreciate it. This is my first scratch build (and really my first model since I was a kid, for that matter). It's something I've wanted to try every since I saw a TV special in the early 80's about special effects that showed the ILM model shop. Prior to this, I did have a false start trying to build the Spice Harvester from the David Lynch Dune movie (something I plan to return to). Tonight I took a few shots of things roughly assembled so you could get an idea of the whole ship. There is still a lot of small things to be done before paint (like learn
  19. Some more updates...For the most part I'll let the photos do the talking. Questions welcome. More mechanical detail, this time for the rear of the craft. This was built up from some 1:35 scale tank parts. Here it is in place with some primer The tank-like bit was turned from a styrene rod and topped with an acrylic hemisphere. If you look close, you can see the junction where some filler is needed... Next up are the smaller antenna-like paddles on the rear of the cab. These were made from some styrene tubes and rods
  20. I was also able to get some primer on a few of the parts. The rear part of the ship (or abdomen, in insect terms) needed some more detail. I printed out a pile of styrene rings and sanded back some primer on the 'abdomen' to get a good glue bond. once they were glued in place, I blended the transition with some epoxy putty. I also started detailing the rudder-like things, using standard hobby store styrene shapes. thanks for any interest. -Peter
  21. Thanks for the encouragement! Okay, this is a bit of an odds & sods post...some old work (that I had forgotten about) and some recent developments. One of the first things that I built when I started this model (back in May 2017), was to detail the cockpit, something not really spelled out in the concept sketch. I had an idea of an open framework suspended in the bubble, maybe giving the impression that it uses gyros to always stay level while the ship maneuvers. So with this in mind I starting in on some 1:72 tank parts. I
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