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Everything posted by Photon

  1. Thanks, Pete. Great idea. I’ll definitely give that a try.
  2. I haven't had time to model much lately, just an hour here and there. I finally got enough done to warrant sharing with you guys. There were also a few mishaps, so read on.... I realized that I had to paint the driver/pilot and detail the interior & get it sealed up before I could attach it to the rest of the model (something I've been avoiding). I did a quickie, good-enough paint job on the figure and got it closed up. I think the orange helps make him look less Modern Armour and more Guy From The Future. I got the windscreen and side windows glued in and taped up when the first mishap happ'd. The driver's side window came unglued during masking and fell into the sealed cabin. I was able to fish it out after much effort, but since everything is glued tight, there's no fixing it. Oh well. At least I was able to get it out. Next up I started to add some details. I picked through my cache and laid out some good candidates. After much messing about I came up with this for the back panel. I hit it with some grey primer to see how cohesive it was. I plan to add a few more bits and lots of dangling hoses. For some reason it kept reminding me of this... Anyway, here it is in place I also started to add some small gubbins to the sides. I cut a few square holes and fit some square evergreen tubes. Not sure what they're supposed to be, but there were some details in the original drawing that were suggestive of these. I think they will look cool with some rusty stains running from them. I also started to scribe some flame cut marks on the edges of the “steel” plates that make up the bottom of the ship. I also plan to try adding a rolled steel texture and some epoxy putty welds. Basically some armor modeling tricks that I’ve been wanting to try and think will suit this subject well. At some point during all this, I noticed that the pot of Tamiya cement that I had just bought was on it's side. When I went to right it, I realized the cap must have been loose and the entire contents had spilled all over the bench, but because my house keeping is poor I didn't immediately notice. By some miracle none got on the myriad of semi-precious greebles scattered over the work surface, but my shop smells minging.
  3. Thanks, guys. yeah, Will, it’s very obviously a HEMTT cab. I’m not sure I can disguise it without loosing the very things about it that appealed to me in the first place. Hopefully, once painted, it won’t scream HEMTT quite as loudly.
  4. I've had some time this week, so here's a few updates... The bottom half has been built up. I also did some plastic surgery on the front end and lowered the placement of the cab. I really didn't like how high it was sitting before. The cab is just held together with tape at the moment, so I can paint the interior. Here I'm starting to plan out engine compartment details. Everything is just temporarily stuck in place with some double-sided tape. I've also started to add some Meng brand bolt heads. I've built the engine up separately, so it can be more easily painted. The white fairing was made from some 1" diameter styrene rod. The engine itself is from the AMT Pod Racer kit. The rest of the engine details were bottom of the barrel kit parts, since they would be hidden in the shadows for the most part. after a dusting of primer... in situ... Thanks for any interest Peter
  5. Yes, that’s the video that did it for me, too.
  6. Thanks everybody. I really appreciate the nice comments. I've recently made some progress on this, so here's a quick update... I finally found a suitable figure for the pilot. The 1/24 Fujimi figure was way too big. This resin figure is 1:35 and looks much more in scale. So yeah, the vehicle is now officially 1:35 scale. I think with the right paint job, he can be made to look a bit more 'futuristic'. With that sorted, I added some panels to the sides, added a few greebles on top and started to fill out the front. All along I had been planning to scratch-build the cab, but as time has worn on, that started to look less and less attractive. Now that I had settled on 1:35 as a scale, I decided to see what I could find for a truck kit to transplant. I was at the local stationary shop, (which has a weird assortment of model kits) and this Italeri M-977 Hemtt jumped out at me. Without knowing how it would work out, I threw caution to the wind and here it is: It's a bit of a departure from the original sketch. I think the cab is sitting too high. I think it needs to move down a bit. Thanks for stopping by.
  7. Glad to hear it!. Yeah, definitely get some, it's cheap, re-usable and very forgiving. There are a bunch of youtube videos showing how to use it as well.
  8. Thanks for the nice comment. The problem is that I tend to work in short bursts, followed by extended periods of inactivity, where I'm planning how I'll tackle the next problem. So a project can drag on forever. My last model took something like 19 months. It can be hard to sustain interest without getting distracted by ideas for 100 other models I'd like to build.
  9. Thanks for the suggestion. I think that would work great. I actually did find a large sheet of frosted translucent plastic at a local craft shop. It’s about 60cm square (and about .15mm thick) and was only a couple dollars.
  10. So I've made a few attempts to scratch build the hydraulic greebles seen in the recesses of the doors (presumably some sort of locking mechanism), but I haven't been happy with the results. I decided to model it on the computer and 3D print them. My printer can't output the fine detail needed here, so I found someone on Etsy with a SLA printer. The price for three was a bit more than I was willing to spend, so I just ordered one and decided to come up with some way reproduce it. (yeah, I'm a cheap skate) I found a pretty cool product that I think is worth sharing here. Apologies if this is old hat. It's called 'Blue Stuff" (yeah, I know...) from a company in Spain called Green Stuff World. It's a reusable thermoplastic for making molds. You just drop it in hot water for a few minutes and then press your part into it. I got some directly from the company on Ebay. After ordering, I found that there is another nearly identical Japanese product called 'Hinodewashi Oyumaru' . I suppose 'Blue Stuff' is not such a bad name after all... So here's the process. Put the kettle on. Drop a couple bars into the hot water and let them soften for a few minutes. For a two-part mold, I pressed the part half way into the Stuff and used a sculpting tool to press it up close all around the part. Then I pressed some registration marks around the part with the blunt end of a pen. ( the 3D printed part was printed in transparent resin, so it doesn't photograph very well.) Pop a couple more bars into the water to soften, while the 1st half of the mold cools. Then you just smoosh the softened Stuff onto the cooled mold half. After everything is cool you can peel the two halves apart and remove the original (comes out very easily). The stuff is tough, but pliable when cool. Here's a shot of the empty mold. The red arrow is pointing to the part I had printed. Then you mix up some epoxy putty,such as Milliput, and press it into both halves of the mold. Close it up such that the registration keys match up and give it a squeeze. I actually clamped it gently in a vise while it set up. Here's the finished epoxy part: There was a bit of flash to clean up but It was easy with a scalpel and a small file. Here's a shot of the original 3D printed part with some primer on it next to the epoxy casts, the last one straight from the mold with out any clean up. Not too bad, huh? I think this would be an easy way to reproduce small detail bits for scratch building when you need multiples of something you only have one of and don't want to spring for six Sd.Kfz. 11/4 kits. Here I've just roughly positioned them behind the door to get a feel for how things are coming along. Thanks for reading along. Sorry if everyone already knew about this stuff. I was pretty excited to have found it. Its dead easy to use and can be reused over and over again. Just chuck it back in the hot water. Peter
  11. Quick update. I've got the ceiling and the beginnings of some lighting. Cheap strip LEDs from China via Ebay. I went for warm white (70's film stock vibes) rather than the cool, which tends to have a blueish cast. Got everything wired in series. They're bright as hell, I also bought an LED dimmer from the same seller, but it doesn't seem to do anything . Here everything's just barely balanced, no glue I need to find a suitable diffuser material for the LEDs. I have some meant for fluorescent light fixtures, but its WAY out of scale. I'm going to try and find some milky white translucent sheet plastic.
  12. Thanks. Yes, that sketch is Ian's. I believe it's from his book, "Robots, Space Dudes, Flying Ships, Etc."
  13. Thanks! There might be. I haven't really looked into it. Part of me is reluctant to add figures because once added they become the focal point.
  14. Thanks, man. Considering that outside of this forum, no ones probably ever going to see this model, I should probably dial it back a few clicks.
  15. wow...will be following with interest. Great start!
  16. Unfortunately, I was just working from a single vantage point sketch and I arbitrarily chose the size that I wanted the final model to be. As a result, it’s a weird scale (~1:15 if I had to guess). So there really aren’t any figures commercially available that I know of. I’ve since become aware of the Neca figures of Lambert, Dallas, & Kane in their compression suits. These look great, but they’re 7.5” tall. I really don’t have the space to display a diorama that big. Maybe I’ll try my hand at sculpting something...
  17. Home today because my cars in the repair shop, I turned my attention to the airlock floor grate. This one cost me 2D6 sanity points, but I'm really happy how it turned out (not to mention chromosome damage from the cement fumes). Rather than take the easy way out and throw down some Evergreen strips, I decided to try to shoot for Ron Cobb's vision seen above. To cut these to the same length with a 45 chamfer at each end, I modified an Xacto mitre box by adding a stop and a small clamp to hold the piece being cut. Then it was a matter of cutting them with a razor saw and cleaning up any burrs. These were then glued to a thin strip to make up each 'rail' of the grate. I cut some grooves in a piece of MDF with the right spacing and glued some thin styrene strips at either end. I continued this border completely around the rails. The other day at work (when I should have been eating lunch), I used the milling machine to cut some slots in a sheet of .030" styrene, using double sided tape to hold it in place. I build a 2nd outer frame from thicker styrene and glued everything up. Here is the result... I never thought it would turn out as nice as it did. I have no idea how I'll paint it, but that's a problem for another day. thanks for tuning in Pete
  18. Looks fantastic. You’re a force of nature (with a very deep spares box). Can’t wait to see it come together once you hit it with some primer.
  19. Thanks for the input. Yeah, I’m a bit torn as to which view. I do like your reversible idea, but I would like to finish this in my lifetime! Also, that front wall will be hiding a lot of sins, having it removable will force me to confront them.
  20. I've decided that building this as a sort of shadow box would be a pretty cool way of displaying it. Ten or so years ago I was in Chicago for a wedding and had the good fortune of seeing the Thorne Rooms at the Art Institute of Chicago. They were really impressive and I'd love to get some of that vibe here. So for this display, I'd like to have it lit and be able to peer into the room through an opening. The question is: Should the front of the box represent an interior view of the room, or a view from outside the ship? Both are cool and have their merits. Here's a screen shot from the movie showing the Airlock from the inside of the Nostromo. One problem is the interior opening is small and would restrict the view. Not ideal. If I went in this direction I would eliminate the smaller opening and use the larger angled opening that mirrors the shape of the exterior doors. Also the greebles in the four triangular shaped quadrants surrounding the door look a bit arbitrary. Another option would be to model it from the outside of the ship. Here's a photo of the actual filming miniature (built by Bill Pearson, I think). This was used for the scene where Kane's body is ejected. I think this would also make for a really striking display, though it might rob some attention from the interior, which should be the focal point. What do you guys think? Do you have a preference? thanks! Pete
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