Eivind Lunde
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Everything posted by Eivind Lunde
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After almost 6 months of postponing and procrastinating I finally finished it. No updates on this, just posting the pictures that proves it didn't become a shelf queen, even though it came close: I had planned to try my hand at making a laminated propeller, but in the end I just couldn't be bothered. I Googled for a simple looking Dr.I propeller and found one in Poland, that I don't think is a good replica since I have never seen a period picture of a light wood Axial Berlin propeller, but who knows. It was certainly easy and quick to paint, so it is what it is. In retrospect I enjoyed the kit, but it's not my best effort. Minimal rigging, but the painting of the Fokker stripes was tiresome so I'll stay away from those schemes until I find a quicker way of replicating them. As with all the Eduard WW.I kits, the ricketiness of the airplanes of the period can make them a bit annoying to build since it is hard to line up things, but that's hardly Eduard's fault. Time to look into the stash again then.
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Looks like a great kit, but I'm still miffed that ICM doesn't replicate the rivets. You can argue and say that the rivets theoretically wouldn't be visible to the human eye in 48th scale, but I would say that this is incorrect in real life. Anyway, rivets makes the kit seem more detailed and real, so I'm hoping they will start adding them soon.
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World War I aircraft are rickety pieces of machinery at the best of times, but I nevertheless find Eduard's assembly to be pretty annoying. The guns have no firm mounting points, only relying on flat plastic spots to glue them to the fuselage, which makes it fiddly to get them aligned in all 3 dimensions. Maybe one should blame Fokker for this, but I do think it could have been solved better with a bit of thought. I mean, would a square peg here and there have killed them? I guess I have to treat it like a ship in a bottle from here on out, hoping to not accidentally touch the gun assembly and tear it off. Other than that I added some spark plugs and wires to four of the cylinders, which is the only ones you will see anyway, and finished the engine. I see there's a bit of cleaning up to do on the right hand one, but that's quickly done.
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Gave the engine crankcase a dark grey Flory wash, the cylinders a black and the intake pipes a brown one. Dead chuffed with the results, especially the copper intakes which are now almost identical to pictures of the OberĂ¼rsel engine. Not much will be seen behind the cowling, especially since the UR.II engine moved the intake pipes behind the cylinders, but adding the spark plugs and cables will add some visual interest.
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1:8 Scale Packard Merlin V1650-7
Eivind Lunde replied to Twobad's topic in Work in Progress - Aircraft
Fantastic work! But didn't the Packard built Merlin's have fewer bolts on the back of the engine due to Packard trying to make it quicker to build and easier to maintain? I read somewhere that they reduced the amount of bolts to half around the auxiliary connection end, but made them thicker to compensate. I'm not saying yours is wrong, only trying to get the story verified by someone who obviously know. -
Been a while since this project has moved forward, but I finally did a bit of work today. Since almost everything is now ready to glue together, except engine, guns and propeller, I decided to do some weathering before I commit to glue. Dabbed the fuselage with a sponge dipped in Flory Dark Dirt to remove the brightness of the white decals and introduce some slight, almost imperceptible, variations to the fuselage colours. The few pictures that exist of this plane shows that it is not worn or dirty, so it's better not to overdo it. Kind of difficult to resist, though. Thankfully the Flory washes are very easy to work with in that regard since they are water based and comes right off with a moist Q-tip, so you can redo every overdone mistake you do. Wiped most of it off and went over with a short stiff brush to add some extra dirt along the bottom, where it is most visible in the pictures. The end result is a bit dirtier than it looks, it toned the white decals down nicely at least. You can also see the main weakness with the acrylic oil paint and sponge technique along the slight ridge in the fuselage profile. When the sponge goes over the ridge the ridge squeezes out more paint from the sponge and leaves you with an uneven, broken, line. It's not too bad, but it is irritating. Proper oil colours and using white spirit as thinner would have been better, as I just learned that white spirit is a less aggressive thinner than turpentine and would have given more time to get it right before it would have affected the clear acrylic layer on top of the fuselage colour. Drilled some holes for the spark plugs in the engine and sprayed it Vallejo Chrome, and the intake pipes Vallejo Copper. Both will get some Flory washes to tone the colours down a bit and make them more realistic looking. I hope.
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Lifting off the masking is always a nerve wrecking moment, hours of work and immeasurable amounts of mojo can be destroyed in seconds. I had a feeling that the olive brown didn't adhere well to the glossy surface needed to make the Fokker stripes, and unfortunately I was right. But one of the great things with this hobby is that there's always, well almost always, a solution to fix problems during construction. So with a bit of luck the rearmost chip will be hidden by a decal, and the others could be touched up and covered in mud or grime during the weathering I guess. We'll see. Front part of the fuselage looks pretty messy, that could have been avoided using oil colours I guess. Top wing came out well, I thought. The decals are pretty thick which I guess is the price to pay for them being opaque, but settled down nicely with some strong decal solution. I would advice anyone planning to build this kit in this version to remove the weird quality control inspection glass square seen touching the M in KEMPF, as it should be closer to the leading edge and will potentially create problems with the decals.
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"Not many parts in this kit" I said, "This will be done quickly" I said (to the cat). But finally most, if not all, of the busywork has been completed, with every part finished in Fokker striped top sides and a kinda turquoise light blue underside. This has been celebrated with a test decaling of the left aileron to make sure the decals are not translucent, which they are not. Thank God for that. The kit is basically modular, so I can finish each piece by itself and then just put them in place. Just like Lego. Still got the engine and propeller to do, but things should pick up the pace from here on.
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It does look chordwise in the picture I used for reference and it is shown like that in the Eduard instructions as well. I can also see several replicas having them like that. But in another picture which could be the same plane it seems more diagonal, so I don't know. If I were to do it again I think I would go for more diagonal streaks. But talking about streaks, they are now done. It took a long time, most of it spent waiting for the paint to dry, but it almost drove me nuts anyway. I got better at it towards the end when doing the fuselage when I found out that my fear of thicker paint stripes creating an uneven surface for the decals seems to be unfounded. This lead to fewer passes and more of the underlying colour showing through. Would I do it this way again? Probably not. The sponge technique worked fine, but I think I would have used acrylic oil colours or real oil colours to give more time to get it right. W&N oil colours needs like 5 days to dry, though... Just need to find a way to blend in the metal panel in front of the cockpit and spray the underside colour before I can start adding some decals, as an award to myself for all this menial work.
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And here is the middle wing finally done. I did it as a proof of concept, to see if the technique would provide an acceptable result. And I think it did. It isn't perfect by any means, but it is good enough for me as a first try. I sprayed it with gloss floor polish and used the glaze + paint + sponge way of making the stripes. It took a loooong time with many layers before it looked acceptable. A good thing with using many layers of thinned paint is that you end up with a smooth surface for the decals. I think thicker paint could have made an uneven surface., but this looks shiny and even and should accept the decals very well after a sealing round of acrylic floor polish. As I wrote in the post above, pictures of the DR.I I'm building (Kempf had two, or at least two versions of the same plane) shows the streaking of the middle wing to be almost 90 degrees on the leading edge, while the top being more diagonal. EDIT: Or am I being fooled a bit by the perspective of the picture here? đŸ¤” His other plane, the one with the black outline on the rudder, had all diagonal stripes. Anyho, the colour I used was the AK Interactive Japanese "Ohryuko Nana Go Shuko" (olive brown) colour. It is much greener than it looks in the picture, the Samsung S22 Ultra phone I bought because the reviews raved about the camera quality isn't much of an improvement on my old S8+ and an overall disappointment in that regard. Is it the right colour? Nobody knows. This is a topic as hot as the RLM 83 discussion, so I dare anyone to prove me wrong.
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Thanks! I have done some research and you are correct about the angle of the streaks, but that is not true in every case. The second wing on Kemp's DR.I was actually painted almost at a 90 degree to the leading edge, but the other wings was at an angle as you say. I have thought about the Aviatic decals, but while they would give me the perfect finish I think it is a bit like cheating . I will have a go at it myself first even if it doesn't end nearly as well as the Aviatic decals, but may use them another time.
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Quite a while since my last update, some of it which has been spent on thinking about how to do the striping. I thought I had the answer with the oil paint solution, but since I use water based acrylics it would be a problem to mix it with the Vallejo without having to mess around with lacquer based gloss paint to protect it. Another problem is that the cowling and lower undercarriage wing should just be olive brown without any stripes, so I'd have to find a way to spray the oil colours to get the colour right. I'm sure it can be done, but I'd rather not have to do it. And what would you even use on top of the oil paint to seal it and the decals? So I tried some experiments using Vallejo and AK Glaze to retard the drying time, and it worked great. Using a piece of sponge I found it easy to recreate the stripes, and the glaze gave me a surprising amount of time to adjust the angle and amount of paint. Never mind the colour or the rough surface in this horrible closeup picture, it's only a proof of concept and it will take several passes to get to the effect I want. So no excuses now, I just have to give the wings their colour and a gloss layer on top and take a deep breath before I start the main job.
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That was what I thought as well. It's like Al Pacino in Scarface when he says "Say hello to my little friend!", it looks like a friendly attempt to introduce someone if you just look at the words, but given the context you better dive behind something! Kempf had 4 confirmed victories so he wasn't an ace but still a more than competent pilot, so he could boast a little.
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Thanks
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To get some idea what awaits me when I will start painting the streaking I sprayed a thin strip of Evergreen in the light grey linen colour and gave it a gloss cote from a lacquer based spray can I have, to protect it. Using W&N oil colours I found after some tests that one part Sap Green to three parts Burnt Umber gave me an believable Olive Brown greenish-brown shade. Further testing showed that having my hand at 90 degrees to the strip was the easiest way to keep the paint strokes straight, and also that oil paint takes a looong time to dry completely as my fingerprints show. Only thing was that I found it impossible to get the thicker and darker streaks on, as the oil paint comes off so incredibly easy with just one brushstroke so it was impossible to get enough colour on. So I waited for about 5 days until the paint seemed dry enough for a second layer and painted over to get the darker brush strokes. So of all the different techniques for making the Fokker streaking camouflage out there, oil paint will be my way for now. I just have to find something that can cover the oil paint in a semi-gloss shine for the decals and protection.
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Yeah, I'm not disputing that. For me "don't you know me?" and "remember me?" is variations over the same thing, at least in Norway, and would depend on context to get the correct meaning. And that's my whole point, that the context it was used in changed the text from the friendly greeting he used, to be more of a threat. Of course, it could be that he used it as a friendly greeting to his fellow pilots for identification purposes, that may perhaps make more sense when I think about it. đŸ¤” Oh well, we'll never know anyway.
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Thanks for the input. I do not speak German myself so I may very well be mistaken here, but as a Norwegian it is not that hard to read German as the two languages are quite similar. I know Fritz Kempf often said "Kennst du mich noch?", in Norwegian I think this would be "Kjenner du meg ikke?" (don't you know me?/do you not remember me?) to people he met, but my take on this was that in the setting of WW.I air battles it would not be meant as friendly greeting to his enemies, but as a warning or threat, so the meaning would be slightly different from the actual wording. But I'm just guessing.
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Since I dislike the photoetched instruments that Eduard provides in their ProfiPack kits because of their very pixelated look, I removed the print from the etched part and replaced it with an Airscale instrument, built an instrument body and glued it to the crossing tube. While finishing the parts so I could glue the fuselage together I was reminded of how annoying the Eduard Fokker D.VII kit was to put together as this is very similar, if not even worse. None of the parts like the ammo container, fuel tank or the structural tube crossing the cockpit has any positive location. It's all just vaguely shown in the instructions and there's nothing to help you get it into the correct place or angle, just a tiny tiny area on which to glue the parts. It all feels like building a ship in a bottle, every little mistake will screw everything up, from fuselage fit to the later installation of the Spandau guns. So there is much test fitting and adjusting to be done (but at least there is lot's of space to do this, before you glue on the separate cockpit/engine cover) and when the parts finally looks to line up good enough then reinforce the joints with superglue so the parts won't move afterwards. I have no idea why Eduard couldn't have done this easier for the modeller with a bit of thought, it surely can't be a limit of the injection moulding process when you look at how fine the cooling fins are done on the Oberursel engine. Finally, after much colourful language and a glass of Japanese whisky, the fuselage has been glued together. Fingers crossed everything is aligned good enough as not to cause any problems down the road.
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1/48 WW.I machine guns with open cooling jackets?
Eivind Lunde replied to Eivind Lunde's topic in 3D Printing Chat
They also said they have a fine detail printer, no type listed, and a polisher for prints from the fine detail one. Guess that may be my chance then. -
Since the ammo tank was next up and should be in the dreaded swirled metal I thought of ways to simplify this, both because I'm a lazy guy and also because I'm a 55 year old lazy guy who doesn't have the eyesight or skill to do this by hand. I didn't bother to do this on the kit piece since I had painted it with AK Aluminium which is quite bright and the contrast to the Vallejo Chrome wasn't good enough to see. But I tried using the hard sponge like material you get with new electronics and stuff like that. I cut a flat piece and dipped it in chrome paint and then removed most of it on a paper, dry brush style, before I pressed it lightly on the firewall from a Do-17: It looks like a mess, but I didn't actually see how much I had dabbed on so I overdid it in the middle and could have been much more systematic and restrained. But I think this, if done correctly, could make the illusion of the swirls you see on the Fokker E.III cowling, and other planes. At least until you look closer that is. As I have an Eduard Fokker E.III in my stash I will test this further with a more subdued aluminium paint and see what kind of results I can get. Maybe with a dryer sponge and several passes? đŸ¤” Edit: This may be an old technique that I have never read about before, so I'm aware that I most likely haven't come up with something new.
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More holiday in lovely Bilbao has delayed work on this, but no there is no more holiday left. Finished the right hand side of the fuselage, and the left as well, which means I should be able to glue it together now. Added some cables to the flight stick for the throttle and guns and some barely visible Uschi wires for the rudder pedals. Not sure what the V shaped thing on the central rod is, but I'm guessing it is for the ailerons and that the cables would just go straight through the floor to pulleys and towards the ailerons from there. Since that would make them very short and barely visible I couldn't bother to add them. The kit really is not of modern Eduard standard even if nicely detailed. Even something seemingly easy as gluing the floor into the fuselage half was an irritating ordeal since the guiding blocks are about 0.05 mm tall and doesn't do much guiding at all. But I got it to fit after some colourful language that scared my cat off, and dry fitting the fuselage shows that it looks to fit pretty well together. So I guess gluing that is next.
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Hi guys. I have access to an Ultimaker 2+ printer at my local library and have been thinking about using 3D printing to enhance some of my non Profi-Pack Eduard WW.I models. There are several nice looking Spandau models out there, but is it possible to print them and other WW.I guns with open cooling jackets on a 3D printer? Or do they have to be closed for strength reasons in 1/48 scale.
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I'm building the Eduard kit of the DR.I and is about to finish the cockpit. But how is the internal cable layout for the control surfaces? Do the cables to the rudder go from the rudder pedals and under the seat like in the D.VII? Or does the curious V like thing on the floor have something to do with it?
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Having a bit of holiday, but has managed to do a bit of work nevertheless. Seat is done and glued to the back frame. Think maybe the seatbelts from Eduard are a bit too long, but they look OK: Finished the metal framework on both sides, but it is really just the right side that is worth showing so far. There was no altimeter in the kit, and even if the Germans had little in the way of instruments, an altimeter surely would come in handy? I messed around with this for days, pinging Airscale instrument bezels into eternity and ruin Airscale instrument decals (seems Mr. Color clear gloss ruins decals?) before I ended up punching out a 1mm disk with my punch & die set and, using the absolute thinnest Evergreen sheet I have, made a rim for it. That's basically why my builds takes months, looking for tools and dropped parts plus trying to scratchbuild stuff that are mostly beyond my capabilities. But thought it came out pretty good, and it certainly makes the fuselage side more interesting than just having the map case there: Next up will be adding some wires to the flight stick and fix the compass and the other bits to the floor. Still enjoying this kit very much, but that may end when I have to start working on the Fokker streaking.
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So, quite a lot work done now, and I must say that this kit is great so far. Not a Mojo killer at all! I paced around the room while thinking if I should use some MIG Clear Orange on the wooden part to get that warm hue that everyone says the woodwork had because of the varnish, and with a deep breath decided to go for it. And it turned out great! Not only did it turn the wood into looking like something on a 1930's speed boat, but it also made it more glossy. The cat hair is thankfully at the end and out of sight: I made a second attempt at the floor, and it didn't come out any better than my first. I really should have used the proper Windsor & Newton oils, because I just couldn't get the acrylic oils to work as well this time. Guess it takes more practice, but if I should re-do everything I mess up I will never finish the kit. There are several replicas out there with darker wood floors too, so maybe it's OK-ish. The aluminium parts protecting the floor was painted with Mr. Color aluminium, and as with the seat they came out much too bright, but after a round of Flory grey wash they got a pretty realistic greyish metal colour: Camera doesn't really pick up metal shades, so it is not as grey as it looks. I may add some Flory dirt as well. Other things finished are the linen and metal tube wall where the seat is attached. Again the linen is very light grey and the metal tubing is a bit dark green. The colour was described by THE expert on the Aerodrome forum as "pea soup green", but pea soup comes in a huge variety of green colours and it looked like the Windsock built had picked a darker one, so that's what I went with as well. Stiches picked out in linen: And the map case was finished using some W&N oil and I dot the i with a small drop of brass to make out the little button. I may clean up and paint the underside as well, but I don't think that's visible. Sorry for the blurred picture, the Samsung S22 Ultra camera is a bit overrated in my opinion:
