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Eivind Lunde

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About Eivind Lunde

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    Aircraft 1914-1960, motorcycles, cars

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  1. Most of the decals are on now, and I`d say they have grown on me. They are thin, reacts to decal solution well, and blends nicely into the background. So with the exception of the slight purpleness of the unit badge, they are overall very nice. I feared the red and white decal that goes on the tail would not work out, but i used some setting solution and a soft brush to brush out the wrinkles and they set very nicely. After 24 hours I cut the rear rudder hinge line with a sharp knife and used a brush with some setting solution to bend the decal around the rudder line. And that worked very nicely. The white circle is slightly translucent, but it`ll work. I wouldn`t have been myself if I hadn`t done some totally stupid and unnecessary mistakes, so I need to touch up parts of the tail with red since I didn`t align the decal with the tail properly, and I also did not notice the werkenummer being a part of the red tail decal, so I cut that away... Maybe I`ll find something to use in the spare decal box.
  2. Mixed and sprayed a blue shade that compliments the unit decals and the Bavarian blue colours pretty well, although Bavarian blue is usually depicted a bit lighter. Touched up some of the inevitable masking accidents and then sprayed it with floor polish to make it ready for decals and washes.
  3. No, if there is something I have learned over the years it is that colour hues are almost impossible to pin down with any certainty. Nice kit btw, I almost regret not buying the seaplane version, as seaplanes are very cool and rarely made into kits.
  4. It has been a long while since the last update, I blame that on a long holiday and the purchase of a new motorcycle I finally chose my colour after looking at a lot of pictures of the He-51 on the internets, both periods and replicas. The colour in the period pictures and movies look very light grey to me. My guess for a colour "match" is Vallejo USAF Light Grey, which may be a bit too light, but I`ll try to tone it down a bit later on. It looks a bit greyer in real life than this. I`m not kidding when I say I have had close to 10 resprays of the fuselage, since there is so little contrast between the Roden plastic colour and the colour of my choice that I always spotted an area I had missed or not covered good enough. But after having mixed and sprayed the main colour 10 times I had to do something else, so I put the decals on the top wing. I sprayed the wing with an acrylic floot polish I found, I`m sure it is not even close to the legendary Future, but it sprays like water and gives a nice semi gloss shine that goes well with models that should not be completely matte. The Printscale decals went down well, and even the huge clear decal part between the letters is almost invisible. Which is good since I forgot to cut it away. I added the underwing compass from an Airscale decal and a brass instrument ring. It needs some touching up, but will look fine. The mirror is made with the use of a Liquid Chrome pen, but did not come out nearly as good as I`d hoped. Maybe some aluminum foil? Or maybe just leave it be. It is always nice to reach the stage where you can carefully put all the major parts together and kind of imagine how it will end up: But finally the RLM 63 part is done, and the next step is to spray the most likely blue colour, Bavarian blue. Not RLM 24 as suggested by the Printscale decal sheet instructions (That is two swings and two misses for them so far). I will need to mix that shade to match the blue on the decals, which unfortunately veers a bit towards purple. But If I can get the match good enough to survive a casual glance, I will be satisfied. This hobby should be enjoyable after all. And speaking about enjoyable, I need to fiddle with getting the exhaust stack in there. That will be a challenge.
  5. Thanks for the rigging diagram, that will come in helpful. Only small progress since last post, done a bit of thinking on how to add the exhaust stack after the engine cowling has been fitted and painted with the rest of the plane, and sprayed the Quickboost resin exhaust Vallejo exhaust metal. Next up will be weathering it a bit with some rust and tan colour, or something like that. Oh, and removing the little resin hole, and the tiny hair that somehow got stuck to it. Painting the exhaust stack is one of my favourite parts of model building. I also did a speed run to my closest hobby shop where I got my foot in the door just a minute before they closed on Saturday, and bought a bottle of Vallejo RLM 63. It was only after I came home I took a good look at Vallejos interpretation of the RLM 63 Hellgrau colour: Hmmm... Really? I asked my German speaking girlfriend what "Hellgrau" meant, and she said "light grey", just like it says on the box. I am colourblind, but surely this is not light grey?? It certainly is a lot different than the other variants of RRL 63 I`ve seen, but maybe they are right and the others are wrong. I`m assuming they are wrong, and I`m going to mix my own, lighter, shade. Partly because there is no way the plane is that dark when you look at the picture of it I posted, and partly because I think a lighter grey would make the plane look a lot better together with the darker RLM 24 blue nose.
  6. OK, I assumed it was not since your list of decal options was identical to the one in the Hyperscale.com review, none mentioning Clostermanns, so I assumed it was from the instructions. But no big deal, only a bit curious.
  7. Two of the decal options, and the plane on the box, is of course Clostermanns "Le Grand Charles" . I find it a bit curious that it is not mentioned as a decal option on the kit, only pilot mentioned by name is John Chester Button. But since reading "The Big Show" as a kid was what got me interested in airplanes, I've waited for years for a good 1/48 Tempest series II, so that's what I'll build.
  8. Yeah, I`ve heard about the Flory washes. Do you use them for panel lines, or can they be used to make a slight variation of a colour too?
  9. The Print Scale sheet says RLM01 + RLM24 blue for the nose. But every other model I`ve seen in the pre-war scheme is, as you say, grey. The picture I have posted on the first page of the plane in question could be grey, or silver, after looking (well, staring) at it for some time I guess I`d say grey is more likely. And I guess it would be unusual for one plane, or one squadron for that matter, to be painted in an out of regulation colour. So I think you are on to something here!
  10. Yup, I think you are right. Sounds plausible. I may mix in a little bit of grey to slightly dull the Vallejo RLM01, as it is very silvery as is.
  11. Thanks, good stuff. But this plane is mostly not metal, but just fabric painted silver. So there are not many metal panels, and those that exist are just painted RLM01. So what would you suggest to break up a painted silver surface? Would it even need breaking up, or would it appear as single colour without the variation you`d get on a say, black or olive drab coloured plane?
  12. Some general glueing and sanding brings it closer to the painting stage. A great tip I read somewhere was to cut an opening in the circle that holds the wheel inside the wheel pants, that way you can add the wheels when everything's painted and done Speaking about painting, the plane is to be done in overall RLM02 silver. Is there any way to break up the silver so that it does not look too monotone? Perhaps some shading in black? Any tips more than welcome, as this is my first plane done in silver.
  13. Not much work done lately , but I have at least glued the fuselage halves together. The fit is pretty good but unfortunately the upper part of the fuselage framework is visible through the door opening, which it shouldn't be. So another lesson learned, I should have scratchbuilt something to replace the kit frames and painted the interior light grey with perhaps bare metal fuselage insides as this may be more correct for the A version at least. But learning by constantly doing mistakes is fun, right? Right? The underside with the clever fixed gear solution, the faired legs are moulded with the fuselage and the inside half of them is added to the joint fuselage, thus making a perfect joint to the fuselage and a very strong gear at that. The fit is not so good though. Prioritizing a good (visible) wing root fit over a good, but difficult to see, fit under the fuselage will leave you with a bit of puttying and sanding to smooth it out.
  14. Well, it is too late to do anything about this now. I just have to accept that the real plane had different interior colours than mine, even though it irritates me no end knowing about it. I guess I can calm myself with the knowledge that a lot of the cockpit details just casually resembles the drawings from the instruction book, so obsessing about it is just silly. And a quick Google search shows a lot of people has done the same mistake of following the painting instructions, so I am in good company. Cockpit framework finished. It was a bit annoying getting all the tubes to align, but taking it one at a time made it quit easy. I also added a bit of simple detailing but you`d need an endoscope or something to see most of it when the fuselage is closed up, so I guess it is just for my own peace of mind. Glued to the left fuselage side and with the blind flying instrument panel in place, the cockpit looks pleasantly busy.
  15. Of course. I found a photograph of the exact plane I`m modelling with the cockpit door open, and the door is obviously plain metal and at least parts of the rest of the cockpit seems to be light grey, not RLM02. Could the inner fuselage have been unpainted metal (except some sort of clear lacquer), and the framework and cockpit details light grey?
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