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Eivind Lunde

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    Norway
  • Interests
    Aircraft 1914-1960, motorcycles, cars

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  1. Nothing much interesting going on as I have started gluing the parts together now. Fit is fine, but as I said, all the sprue gates are on the mating surfaces which makes for busywork I feel I can do very well without. I have spent a lot of time thinking about what finish to choose. An overall splinter camouflaged one would make sense since allied planes would roam the country side looking for things to shoot up, so being invisible while on the ground would be very important. On the other hand, the mottled one looks much more menacing to me, and I have never mottled anything with my airbrush before, so that would teach me something new. In the end I have chosen to do something entirely different and go with a natural metal test scheme idea I found on the net. My theory is that the late war paint shortage would not be any better in 1946, and they could hide them using camouflage nets while on the ground anyway. Oh, and I really need to learn to do natural metal finishes as that would open up a whole new area of planes, with colourful P-51's and P-47's, in addition to 50's jets. But to make it easy on myself I have ordered some metal powder from Uschi van der Rosten products. I have done a bit of experimenting with MIG metal pigments and it seems quite possible to spray the entire airframe in aluminium and then polish it with powder afterwards to bring out a realistic shine. Or perhaps spray it with aluminium metal powder before polishing? Seems to be plenty of ways to achieve a quite realistic end product using these pigments. So I'm really excited by this, hope this turns out to be as easy as rigging and creating natural wood effects on WWI airplanes was, something that kept me away from even trying for many years. I know I need to have a perfect surface for this, so I guess my cat needs to be either vacuumed or shipped away to a cat hotel before I spray the primer coat. I'm sure he will forgive me in time.
  2. They brag about improved tools and processes in the Anson preview, seems like the Buccaneer will use this as well. I have a weak spot for both of these aircraft, so can't wait!
  3. Well, the cockpit is finished now, but I forgot to take in-progress pictures. First I thought about what I should do with the seat, as I just have one spare set of photo etched seat belts that I'd rather reserve for something else. And as I wanted to use this "what if" kit to learn new things, why not try to make the seat belts myself? So I found a way to do it on YouTube, by using masking tape and simple home made buckles made from metal. I decided to use lead wire as it is way easier to cut, but you have to be very careful as not to bend the buckles out of shape afterwards. It was quickly done and with an acceptable result after a wash of burnt sienna, even if I regret not making the buckles smaller. I just thought "nah, it'll be fine" and called it a day. If you think the seat belts are somehow defying gravity, remember that the seat will be rotated 90 degrees when in the cockpit. While the home made seat belts may not be up to close scrutiny, the rest of the cockpit is not at risk of that since it will be basically invisible after the front part of the fuselage is glued together. I replaced Lego Duplo like instrument panel with a photo etched spare from an Eduard Bell X1 kit, added some levers from an aborted ICM Do-17 kit and made some buttons, switches and stuff using my punch & die set, and added some wire and a primitive TV screen for the pilot to use when he tries to land the damned thing. Next part of the job will bring a whiff of Tamiya Extra Thin glue as I start gluing the parts together.
  4. Since I'm a serial starter but only occasional finisher (mental note: buy new shelf of doom), I have dragged a new kit out of the medium sized stash I keep. This time I went for something that I hoped to be able to finish, since it has few parts and no rigging. The Focke Wulf Triebflügel is most definitely a Luft '46 Luft '50 project, even if it proceeded from a sketch on the back of a napkin and into wind tunnel testing by wars end. While I can understand peoples fascination with the advanced projects the Nazis left behind I do think most people don't think about the amount of development and resources needed to make most of them happen. Time and resources the 3rd Reich did not have. And it's not like the Allies didn't have plenty of fantastic secret projects as well, the Northrop XB-35/YB-49 is pretty sci-fi if you ask me, and that DID fly. But anyho, Amusing Hobby's Triebflügel is on the bench. The kit looks good, plenty of fine detail on the fuselage, and the fit is supposedly very good. Which it should be since the Triebflügel is basically an elliptic shape with a propeller in the middle (poor pilot), so no difficult curves. A not so amusing part of this hobby is the cleaning of the sprue attachment points, and in this kit they are all on the mating surfaces. The cockpit is pretty disappointing, with very basic detail indeed. But one of the reasons I picked this kit is so I can practise my scratch building, as it sure could be improved. So better get to work on that cockpit, even if it will be almost invisible once closed up.
  5. How would one go about replicating the puttied natural metal finish seen on some late WWII German aircraft? I can have a go at the metal part, but how should I replicate the putty finish used to fill in the biggest gaps, as seen in planes like this? I know the colour could be grey-green, reddish or most likely grey, but should I fill all the lines with gap filler and paint over them with grey or grey-green, or whatever, or is there a better way?
  6. Please do and report back, as I am one of the unlucky people who has never experienced the magic that is Future. I bought a bottle of acrylic floor wash and shine that has served me quite well. Sprays right out of the bottle and gives a nice semi gloss shine that is pretty much like you see on most aircraft, but it is nothing like the stories of Future that I have heard in the fairy tales.
  7. There is a guy who built an RC version of this and it looks like it flies beautifully. Not the most far fetched of the "Luft 46" projects it seems:
  8. Looks like a fun kit, certainly something worth considering. But as to your comment @Mike about the Me 262 being delayed by a year because of Hitler meddling in it's development, that is a myth. The delays was mostly because of problems with the engines, and Willy Messerschmitt also said it would be quick and easy to convert it to a fighter bomber, not taking more than about 2 weeks. In addition to all the other problems with this airplane I also read that the tyres needed constant replacement due to the landing speed, so it would certainly be a costly project with perhaps not much to show for it since the allies soon learned to just pick them off during landing anyway.
  9. Sorry to necro this thread, but I just wanted to comment on this as I just found this thread while wondering if I should start my own Roden Gladiator build. As part of that I read an article on the Gladiator from the March 1973 issue of Air Enthusiast where they state that the Norwegian Gladiators used Colt M29 machine guns. This was probably since it was the standard aircraft gun at the time using 7.92x57 rounds. And the reason for some MK.II Gladiators using a two bladed propeller was just that there was a lack of Fairey Reed three bladed ones for a short while, so the early ones were delivered with the MK.I propellers. Oh, and great build! All the problems with the Roden kit has scared me off it for the time being, postponing it in hope that someone else comes out with a better 1/48 kit.
  10. The interior is starting to come together now. The floor has been sprayed Vallejo wood by mistake, I really wanted the yellow-ier New Wood, but when finished with some Transparent Wood applied with a sponge, it looked a pretty good approximation of the (supposedly) lighter ash wood floor. So it'll just stay that way. I use an old Tamiya Thunderbolt pilot to test when I am unsure if things looks correct, and while Billy Bob may be bigger than the average petite Type N pilot, it certainly seems that the floor is too high. That's why the seat is basically on the floor I guess, and even if I used a bit of styrene sheet to raise it slightly, Billy Bob looks like he sits in one of those Shriner cars. Nothing much I can do about it though since the floor basically keeps everything together and it would take major surgery. It's not a big deal anyway
  11. The Camels had Clerget engines, and they are quite different while still rotary engines. Not nearly as pretty.
  12. Since there was nothing I could do about that irritating little fault with the pushrods, I went on to work on the interior. As I have been unable to find a picture or even a drawing of the Type N cockpit, I just have to merge Eduards guesses with my own, to come up with something that could be correct. The seat got painted with Vallejo wood colours to simulate the wood back rest, and the cushion leather brown with a slight wash to bring out the nicely detailed creases. I have read about other peoples attempts to make leather look good, and one simple way is to give it that leather sheen by using your nose. I used a Q-tip to rub the outside, (NB! NOT the inside!) of my nose and face to get some of the fat that is on the skin onto it, and then I rubbed it on the painted seat with a surprisingly good effect! That simple and yes, very unusual, job gave the seat a convincing shine that you see on leather cushions. As usual my Galaxy S8+ cameras lack of subtlety makes it difficult to see, but I would certainly recommend this to others looking for a quick improvement.
  13. Thanks, one cannot have too many reference photos. And I certainly should have watched the photos more closely before committing the photo etched pushrod part to superglue, because the Eduard instructions have them the wrong way around! What I thought (and I guess the one who made the instructions as well) was some added detail on the end, is actually meant to act as a locator for the rocker arm on the cylinder. This means the photo etched part is flipped 180 degrees in the instructions, the result being that the pushrods are slightly to the left of the centre of the cylinders instead of to the right, where the intakes are and they should be. If you add that mistake to the fact that the whole piece is too small to even reach the cylinder rocker arm, then I'd say that the next time I'm building a Le Rhone from Eduard, I will just make the pushrods myself.
  14. Thanks. Yeah, the Le Rhone was license built in high numbers so I think there are still a few in museums world wide. Fascinating engine technology.
  15. Engine is completed. The intakes mated up very well to the inlets, the photoetched pushrods on the other hand are too short to reach the valve rocker mechanism. I'm not a fan of photoetched details to represent 3D things like a pushrod, so I was very close to using Albion nickel silver rod instead. Had I known it wouldn't fit properly I'd taken the time to do that, but you have to look closely to see it so it is OK I guess.
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