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Eivind Lunde

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About Eivind Lunde

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    New Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Norway
  • Interests
    Aircraft 1914-1960, motorcycles, cars

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  1. A bit more progress. The mysterious circular bump on the box beside the seat has been removed since it is not there on the real plane, and god knows why Eduard wanted to include it. I made the metal plate shielding some cables in front of the steering yoke from a piece of plastic cut and bent to shape, and with an Airscale decal as the placard. In front of that is an old oleo leg from a P-40 kit, cut down to size to somewhat look like the.. err.. thing that is there. I added the very visible yellow cables running down the side of the seat using a Albion metals brass tube as the opening, and some thin stranded wire from an old IKEA lamp. I sprayed the metal with Vallejo primer from a can as I know that acrylic colours do not seem to like metal at all, and the very pleasant AK Interactive pale yellow colour seemed to bite alright without flaking off. The undercarriage retracting handle is just made from sprue. I have ordered the full Flory Model wash set as my MIG enamel washes seem to have expired like milk, and now leaves flakes everywhere . It is going to cost me a fortune (*sigh*), but I hear good things and look forward to try them out on the cockpit parts, to hopefully bring some life into this. To add more detail I made the green oxygen flask on the right wall from sprue, with one of the photo etched instruments from the kit cut to a circular shape and framed by an Airscale brass instrument bezel, and adorned with yet another Airscale placard. I do like how the Airscale decals add some interesting detail, but they do look pretty low res for 2019. Fingers crossed someone will release some new, improved, cockpit placards soon!
  2. Fantastic looking model of one of my favourite aircraft. I wish someone would make an injection model of the HP 42... Come on ICM, I promise I'll buy one!
  3. I couldn't live with the closed boxlike structure, so I traced it on a plastic card to have a pattern for the shelf, took a saw to it and cut it away. After some work I got a shelf glued to the battery box, made a simple rendition of the switchbox located on it and painted it all. I also added the photoetched instrument panel, but decided that just using clear gloss would be enough for the glass, and regretted that immediately. Once you have started using clear plastic there is no going back, it just can't compare. This will just need some semi gloss shine and electrical cables (there are a LOT of those in the X-1 cockpit!) to be ready for use. And I have entertained myself making the door. One of the photoetched handles broke off, so I had to replace them both with stretched sprue. I added an etched part from an Eduard Me-108 which didn't make it and some sprue, to make it more like the real thing. A quick and sloppy (the upper line is not straight ) run with a riveting tool added subtle and nice details. This is the first time I have used a riveting wheel, and it certainly won't be the last! I will need to make a proper door release handle in time. The door is still not totally correct, but at least a lot better than it is out of the box.
  4. Well, have amused myself with some detail work including the photoetched instrument panel. I painted around the details in Nato black since I don`t like the grainy look of the Eduard paint, and I also laminated it as I feel using clear gloss paint don`t really look like a glass pane. The problem is to find clear plastic that are not only thick enough to not crease, but thin enough so you won't get a fat instrument panel that no longer fits! So after trying out different things, plastic lids, blister pack material, my eye was caught by my DVD/BR collection on my wall... EUREKA! The clear sleeve on the DVD cover is perfect! Very thin, clear and easy to cut, it makes a perfect glass pane for instruments: The only problem is how to glue this together. I used super glue, but feel that this is less than ideal for sandwiching photo etched parts together and it doesn't really bite on the smooth plastic surface of the clear plastic. So it took copious amounts of super glue to make this stick good enough, but any suggestions on what glue to use for things like this will be very welcome. As you can see I also took a shot at making the oxygen (?) hose that is so prominent on the instrument panel, it was made with thin wire wrapped with sewing thread and came out pretty convincingly for a first try. The round dial it is attached to is in fact an undersized MG 15 ammo drum from an ICM Henschel 126 kit I cut in half, I just LOVE examining old leftover sprues looking for parts I can use to make something completely different!
  5. Thanks for the info, but the Vallejo olive drab coloured ship has sailed now. I did compare a colour sample to the pictures of the X-1 cockpit on my calibrated TV, and it was close enough for me.
  6. Interior green sounds plausible (and is pretty close to olive drab as far as I can tell), but I read a recommendation made by another X-1 builder who had researched the colour, and he meant olive drab was closest. I have to admit I am on shaky ground here since I am red/green colourblind and some hues of green look grey to me! I was sort of leaning towards Russian Green too, that is a greener hue, but took him at his word when he stated he had put down a lot of time researching it. EDIT: Thank you for the link, that helps a lot!
  7. If I had known about the other detail set they make I would likely have bought that, instead of relying on my meagre scratch building ability. But then again, trying to do this myself rather than using photo etched aftermarket is kinda old skool, and satisfying if I can pull it off.
  8. Yes, and I think that set fixes one of the biggest problems, in addition to the lack of detail in the wheel wells, namely the made up left hand console in the kit. I assembled the cockpit parts and spray them Vallejo Olive Drab, as that matches the pictures pretty well indeed (it is darker in real life), but what does not match the references is the details. This (granted, without photo etched instruments): Does not look much like this (Picture courtesy of NASM): It is obviously just an open shelf without any instruments, so I feel the urge to redo it and scratch build the shelf part of it. A bit disappointing this, one would think it would be easy for Eduard to get this right even 20 years ago.
  9. After having read through some builds of this model I decided to try my hand at some simple detailing of the instrument panel backside, as this should be visible through the cockpit glass. I used one of my fantastic Japanese drill bits and drilled holes in the plastic instrument panel: And filled them with round Evergreen sprue to simulate the instrument bodies peeking out from the panels backside: I will file them down to size and drill a small hole so that each instrument can get its own electrical cable, that should hopefully make the backside more interesting to look at.
  10. After having my last 2 projects ending on The Shelf Of Semi-Doom, I was looking for something easy and quick. And it doesn't come more easy than the Eduard Bell X-1 ProfiPack, if you ignore the etched parts that is. Which I won`t. I don`t think there is any need to give a history lesson on the X-1. It was built to break the sound barrier, shaped like a 0.5" bullet since they knew those were stable in supersonic flight, and it did so in 1947. The Eduard kit is about 20 years old (I think?), and has few parts and pretty rudimentary detail so the addition of the photo etched harness and instrument panel(s) is very welcome: There are no added detail for the wheel wells, but it does come with 3 nicely detailed resin wheels: Since the X-1 is one of the most famous airplanes in history and was put in a museum in 1950, there is an incredible amount of online reference pictures for the cockpit and other details, with the notable exception of the wheel wells... So if anyone have any good pictures of the X-1 wheel wells I`d be happy to see them posted here, or a link provided. I`ll try my best to add some details to this kit, partly because I want to give this important aircraft the treatment it deserves, and partly because I have quickly grown fond of trying to scratch build stuff since I first tried it a couple of models ago. Where there are no details, any added detail is an improvement, right?
  11. Looking good so far! I have one of these in my stash, although in the surprisingly pornographic "Air a cutie" weekend edition livery, so I will follow this with interest.
  12. Is this kit better than the Bobcat kit? I just love these planes, very cool looking! Too bad it is so difficult to find good references on Soviet airplanes, with the exception of fantastic website of Massimo Tessitori, there are just too few thorough books on what is a significant and interesting part of aviation history.
  13. Well, this build has sort of stalled, as happens with almost all of my projects when they get close to completion. I get sick and tired of the busy work that is left and start spending more time rummaging through my stash for my next build, and that is a warning sign indeed. Rigging is not that hard on this plane, but I was dumb enough to glue the top wing on before doing the rigging, so now it is MUCH more difficult since the staggered layout makes it difficult to access the root of the struts where the wires go. I have already messed the lower wing with some superglue, and while difficult to notice it is noticeable to ME! But I managed to scratch build a simple Revi gunsight since there was nothing in the box. I wonder why this piece seems to be left out of all (?) of the HE-51 kits out there? I mean, the guns are there, so how would they be aimed without one? Maybe there is something I haven't thought about, but I find it baffling. Anyho, as I wrote, this kit is now on the shelf until the mojo comes back. Life is too short and I have several kits in my stash I would like to build, and I think I just need something simple I can finish off in a few weeks. The Eduard Bell X-1 ProfiPack kit has next to no parts, no complicated camouflage, and certainly no rigging...
  14. It gets good reviews, and I`m sure the cockpit would look a bit better out of the box with the resin bits included.
  15. I can absolutely recommend the kit, the fit is overall good even if it needs some putty here and there. Add an instrument panel from Eduard or Yahu, and you will have taken care of its greatest weakness. If you are going all in then you`d need to rebuild some of the cockpit tube structure so the upper tube doesn`t show above the door opening, and some other details that are left out. There is no Revi 2b gunsight, but thankfully the windscreen has an opening for it so you can build or use something that fits through it. Pretty weird they made a prominent opening without adding it though, didn`t anyone notice it was missing?
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