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Everything posted by NORTHDUK

  1. Dromia, Thanks for your reply. I'll be ordering some tomorrow. Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  2. Dr. Quack, Thanks for your reply. Several people have recommended the W&N Galeria varnish and I intend to try it. Apart from being reliable and easy to apply, it seems to have the great virtue of being cheap! Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  3. Jenko, Thank you for your reply and your helpful comment regarding the availability of Humbrol products. I'll keep it in mind. Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  4. Graham, Thanks for your replies here and on Braille Scale. I'll definitely try the Winsor & Newton. Much appreciated. Best wishes, Gordon
  5. My old bottle of Humbrol Matt Cote has finally run out. The local model shop has had it on order from Humbrol for a couple of months but has had no supply yet. I bought a new bottle from an E-Bay seller but it doesn't give the usual clear matt finish. There is a slight sheen to the finish and there are whitish streaks in places. On-line prices from other sources are surprisingly high. This has led me to wonder if there might be an alternative product that might be more reliable and more readily available. What do other modellers use? I need a product that can be applied by brush as I don't have an airbrush. All comments and suggestions would be of interest. Gordon McLaughlin
  6. @Geoffrey Sinclair, Thank you for your reply. I have never come across Hathi Download Helper but will certainly try it. It sounds as if it would speed up the process of downloading books and periodicals considerably. I've never had much luck with the Hathi Trust but this sounds like the answer to the problem. @Space Ranger, Thanks for your reply. It certainly looks as if your method would work well. It's a pity that they only allow downloading of one page at a time. It makes for a very slow and laborious process and is presumably intended as a deterrent. Many thanks again to you both for your help, Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  7. @Geoffrey Sinclair, This is a most interesting find. How do I download a copy? Hathi Trust seems to have been set up to deny access to any of its books and periodicals to as many people as possible! Regards, Gordon McLaughlin
  8. When I was in the ATC in the 1960s, the seat belts were a fairly bright blue. Humbrol do, or did, a paint called WW1 Blue and this was a close match to it. The circular quick release was pale gold in colour. The colour tended to wear off revealing a dull silver colour underneath. The whole interior of the aircraft was matt black. The parachute harness was a slightly greyish light brown colour, the canvas parts were a light khaki brown and the quick release box was black. We were repeatedly warned that, if the lower straps and cords were not assembled correctly, baling out would result in a sudden change of sex. We flew in our ordinary battledress uniforms but had to leave the beret on the ground. I hope this catalogue of trivial detail is of some use. Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  9. gingerbob and Sgifford, Thanks for the additional information. It had, in fact, occurred to me that other squadrons must have been involved and my remark about asking a lot of one squadron was intended tongue-in-cheek! Nevertheless, I had no other information about the defence of Norway and I'm grateful for the list of squadrons involved. I'll follow them up tomorrow. It was something I had never thought of until I started to look for markings for the KP Spitfire. Many thanks and best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  10. Bjorn, I first saw a photograph of the Fokker V8 in RAF Flying Review in the early 1960s and have never forgotten it. This is the first model that I've ever seen of it. It's very striking indeed. I'm particularly impressed with the grillles on the engine cowling. Great stuff! Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  11. rossm, From your first post, it seems clear that Type C roundels will be needed on the upper surfaces. Do you know what size these would have been? Reading your second post, I was intrigued to see the reference to "the post war grey-green glossy finish, etc". For a moment, I wondered if these Spitfires had flown in Dark Sea Grey / Dark Green / Silver but it doesn't seem likely. More probably, they were in wartime colours polished or otherwise glossed up. MJF Bowyer, understandably enough, made no distinction between Ocean Grey and Dark Sea Grey initially so the glossy finish is the post-war element. Seawinder, Thanks for the link to the roundel thread. Again, it is clear that I need to use Type C. Denford, My edition is the "Second (Revised) Impression Autumn 1961". The Glossary is on Page 215. It had gone up to 60/-! You're right that the difference between F, LF and HF variants was the engine fitted. The main visible difference between a LF IXe and a LF IXc, though, is the relative positions of the cannon and 0.50mg in the wing. My kit is a LF IXe which is why I'm making an otherwise unnecessary fuss about it. My thanks and best wishes to each of you for your help. Gordon McLaughlin
  12. My previous Spitfire build has ben delayed by faulty paint so I'm looking at another Spitfire in the meanwhile. This is a Spitfire LF IXe, MJ482, SK-T of 165 Squadron between June 1945 and September 1946. According to John Rawlings' Fighter Squadrons of the RAF and their Aircraft, this squadron spent much of the late war period on long-range escort and close support in Mustangs. In June 1945, they were moved to Scotland (Dyce in another account) and re-equipped with Spitfire F IX and LF IX from an unknown source and then sent to Norway until November when they returned to the UK. They were disbanded in September 1946 at Duxford when they were re-numbered as 66 Sn. I can't find much information on the squadron's activities and their aircraft seem to have been rather camera-shy. In Bruce Robertson's Spitfire - the Story of a Famous Fighter (P210), there is a small profile drawing of MJ482, SK-T of 165Sn and this clearly shows a LF IXe. The squadron seems to have had a mixture of F IX, LF IXc and LF IXe although this is the only reference to a LF IXe that I've found. As I have an old KP Spitfire LF IXe ready for decals, I'd like to use these markings for SK-T and can find most of them from generic sheets. My problems are, first, that I don't know if there might have been some insignia or personal symbol on the port side and, second, that I don't know what the upper wing roundels would have been like. These might have been Type B but they might have been yellow outlined Type C at this late stage of the war. Does anyone have any information that might help me with this? Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  13. Hook and Graham Boak, As I said in my posting about a painting session yesterday, I've had a look at the results in daylight today. The Humbrol gloss White and matt Trainer Yellow turned out well. Both had dried well and given fair coverage (ie opacity). The matt Dark Earth was another matter. It felt odd when I applied it and it has dried badly. It is matt enought but it shows up brush strokes as translucent streaks and has clearly not dried properly so that I don't think it would take another coat. Unfortunately, I applied it to the Spitfire 1a kit that the thread title refers to. This is now going to be delayed until I can get some Xtracolor Dark Earth which, I hope, will dry satisfactorily on it. I applied some old Humbrol gloss Mid Brunswick Green to a Toko Siemens Schuckert D.IV this afternoon. It went on well and seems to be drying nicely. The delay to the Spitfire 1a will result in a new appeal for help with an old KP kit of a Spitfire LF IXe as used by 165 Sn RAF in Norway or later. Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  14. Hook and Graham Boak, Thanks for your replies to my question about Humbrol paint. I normally use Xtracolor enamels for specific colours but had had difficulty in getting any during lockdown without having to pay the Earth for them in postage, hence my asking about a Humbrol colour suitable for RAF Dark Green. By coincidence, I have been painting today using Humbrol matt Trainer Yellow, gloss White and matt Dark Earth. The white and yellow behaved very well but the Dark Earth, from a new unopened tin bought just before lockdown, seemed to be a bit odd. It seemed thick, it dried very quickly and didn't inspire confidence. All three were thoroughly stirred for 3 - 5 minutes before use. I'll let you know how they performed after I've seen them in daylight tomorrow. Best wishes, Gordon
  15. Fishplanebeer, Colin, Thanks for the scan of the 234Sn symbol. Now that I see it, it makes sense. It was good of you to go to so much trouble. I don't think anyone will object on copyright grounds but it was my original query that prompted your reply so, if the Britmodeller mods kick up about it, tell them that the blame is mine. Thanks again for your help. Best wishes, Gordon
  16. Seahawk, I wasn't meaning photos of Seafire F.17s are thin on the ground, but photos showing the size and shape of the overwing blister are. Sorry, I understood what you meant but my rather shorthand reply didn't make that clear. As far as I remember, the Aircraft Illustrated article had at least one view of the aircraft from above but I haven't seen it for several years and could be mistaken. I shall try to find it and let you know. MJW Models are just up the road from here so I'll try to convince myself that I need this boxing. I'd like a Seafire III and the XVII but I'm not so struck on the XV and I know little about the IIc. Still, I'm tempted! Troy Smith, Thanks for the walkarounds. They provide a lot of useful detail and are remakably clear (clearer, anyway, than any photographs that I manage to take). Best wishes, Gordon
  17. Graham Boak and Seahawk, Thanks for your suggestions for a Seafire XVII kit. Some years ago, I built a Ventura Spitfire PRXI kit. I fought it tooth and nail, abandoned it three or four times and eventually finished it. There's no doubt that it looks good and seems to me to be an accurate Spitfire. Whether it was worth the effort involved is a question that I still can't answer. I'd be reluctant to tackle another Ventura kit, especially if the Sword kit is still available. Until Seahawk mentioned it, I had no idea that Sword had made any Seafire kits. I've tended to associate them mainly with US subjects. As Seahawk says, there aren't many photographs of the XVII but there was a nice article in Aircraft Illustrated in the 1970s that had some decent pictures. If I can find a Sword kit that doesn't stretch the pension too far, I'll go for that. fishplanebeer, Thanks for the colour information on the symbol on N3277. The few photographs that I've found of this Spitfire all show the starboard side so I've no clear idea of what this symbol was meant to be. The fatally out of register decal in the Airfix kit was just a yellow disk and some random black and red marks that defied interpretation. Do you know what it was? Best wishes, Gordon
  18. Seahawk, When I found the Spitfire kit in the loft, the Aeroclub parts were stored next to it. I'm not a fan of vacforms but I'd like a model of the Seafire XVII some day. Is there now an injection moulded kit of it? If not, how do you think you would you go about making a model of it with whatever is available nowadays? Gordon
  19. Black Knight, Thanks for the offer. I brought the kit down and had a look at the decal sheet which looked OK at first sight. One of the markings was out of register although the rest were fine so I cut the faulty one off the sheet and tried it out. I'm not at all sure what the marking is, a personal insignia or squadron marking possibly. After a long soak in warm water, it strongly resisted efforts to coax it off the backing paper and finally broke into pieces. This suggests that the sheet has had it so I'd like to take you up on the offer of some alternatives. I live in Northumberland and have PM'd you my address. Let me know where we go from here. Thanks again, Gordon
  20. First, my thanks to everyone who replied. Graham Boak makes a good point about the condition of the decals in the old Spitfire kit. I bought it years ago in the ridiculous belief that I could use the wings in conjunction with an Aeroclub vacform fuselage to produce a Seafire XVII. After all this time, including twenty-two years in my damp loft, the decals may well be too far gone. I'm a little puzzled by the reference to "the Humbrol lottery". I haven't bought any Humbrol paint since before lockdown. Has it taken a turn for the worse since then? Thanks to Troy Smith for the photographs. I didn't know that AZ-H had been shot down and it was interesting to see it in colour. The idea of changing DW-K to DW-T is ingenious and would be an easy way to produce another aircraft from the same squadron but my dislike of the DW-K markings is simply the fact that the oversized looking code letters don't appeal to me. I'll be bringing the old Spitfire kit down from the loft tomorrow and will see if the decals are still usable. If not, I'll be searching for decals from some other source, Thanks again for your help. This has been an interesting and helpful thread. Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  21. Jure, Thanks for your reply. A check of my decals shows that I have some 5 colour lozenge so I shall start on this in the next few days, all being well. Between them, your two messages have given me all the information needed get this build finished so I should be OK without the photograph. I'm really grateful to you for your help with this. Without it, I should have had to rely on guesswork with the usual results! Best wishes, Gordon
  22. Jure, Thanks for your reply. If I go for 45 degree on the upper wing, does the direction remain the same across the whole span or do the diagonal strips lean in towards the centre section so that those on the port wing lean to the right and those on the starboard wing lean to the left? Do you know if the pattern is the same on the undersides as on the upper surfaces? I'm inclined to go for the spanwise option on the upper wing to simplify the application but haven't decided yet. Thanks again for your help with this. My references are limited and photographs on line are almost impossible to interpret. Best wishes, Gordon
  23. I am near to completing the Airfix Spitfire Mk1a in 1/72, A01071A, and will shortly need to start applying the decals. I don't like the markings supplied, DW-K, and was wondering if the markings from the previous kit, AZ-H N3277, would be suitable for this one. If not, has anyone any suggestions for decals from other sources that wouldn't involve wastefully buying a large sheet of decals just to use one of the options? A typical, anonymous squadron machine would be ideal. A look at my paint stock shows that a number of colours have dried up and need to be replaced. What Humbrol enamel would anyone now recommend for RAF Dark Green suitable for WW2? Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  24. I've begun work on the Roden Siemens Schuckert D.IV kit and I need to start applying the lozenge fabric to the wings. Looking at the few photographs I can find, I can't make out if these aircraft were finished in four or five colour lozenge and can't tell if the fabric was applied spanwise or chordwise. Does anyone know? Best wishes, Gordon McLaughlin
  25. @JWM, Jerzy-Wojtek, Thanks for your e-mail. I think you are right about the use of different colours by different manufacturers. Agama C4 is intended for aircraft produced by Avia and C5 is for other manufacturers. Your suggestion that a colour close to US Olive Drab would be suitable seems sensible. Thanks also for the link to the thread on ARC Forums. It was interesting and it is a shame that it ended so suddenly. Good luck with your models! Best wishes, Gordon
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