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plantaznik

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Everything posted by plantaznik

  1. My apologies, i had to post it from phone since my laptop screen is broken and I couldn't do it properly. I will fix it πŸ˜…
  2. Another progress πŸ™ primer and xf1 black are on. White is next. https://imgur.com/a/LoR9Juz https://imgur.com/a/yNXUB9V https://imgur.com/a/ehHbdHn https://imgur.com/a/RZjvYas https://imgur.com/a/HP4QcoL https://imgur.com/a/en59pUI
  3. Here is the cockpit after dark brown oil wash. Now I have to spray it with flat coat. For this I'm going to use 1:9 mixture of tamiya flat base and gloss clear + thinner.
  4. A little bit of progress! Today I sprayed RLM 02 (tamiya xf-22 and xf-49, 1:1) in undercarriage areas. Now I plan to spray the white and black stripes at the back of the fuselage, then mask it and carry on with RLM 76 on the sides and undersurfaces.
  5. Little bit of progress today, as I painted some details in the cockpit, The bristles on my brush were dividing and didn't keep in pointed shape si there are some tiny mistakes, but I'll keep it this way since it almost won't be visible and oil washes will tone it down. I also made new masks for the windshield and I have yet to cut them out and apply.
  6. I know that they are supposed to be these steps on top and bottom, to match the shape of the landing light. But in mine build I had steps on the right and left side, so thats where i had to make those corrections. Thanks for the tip with painting, I'll do it the same way as you did πŸ˜€
  7. Since I finally have some time for scale modelling I want to get back into the hobby with some easy kit. Also, after my first not quite succesful attempt, I want to get myself used to airbrushing with this one. I slowly started with the build with the wing assembly. there was a lot of sanding required, since the top and bottiom halves didn't allign. there was lot of cutting and filling required in the wing reflector shafts. I also filled the wing sections behing the gun bays since I read on the czech modelforum that there was no fabric in that area. The silver paint in the wheel well and bottom of the cockpit is Revell Aqua 99 and it's the only shade that will be brushpainted on the model (except for tiny details in the cocpit) I have yet to get proper metallic shades for the airbrush. I made my own masks for the first time. I think that I will redo the front section once more, but I'm quite happy with the moving part of the canopy. First airbrushed part is the cockpit. Tamiya acrylic paint thinned with Mr. Levelling Thinner. This time, the whole experience was much better. i did not get any dry tip or huge rough splatters. Now I have to add details with brush and seatbelts from tamiya masking tape.
  8. I'm coming back from the dead! πŸ˜ƒ Unfortunately I didn't have much time for scale modelling in past year. I only managed to do one session almost year ago. I finally tried to do something with my airbrush so I decided to try preshading technique. With use of Tamiya acrylic paint and original X20A thinner. However I wasn't happy with the result, I couldn't get the paint mixed properly, together with the correct air pressure. Therefore it was spitting around in rough splatters and I also suffered a lot from a dry tip. Here are some pictures. I was also nervous and excited since it was my first time with airbrush so the lines are not only rough and wide but also crooked as hell πŸ™„ So, to get the hang of the airbrush a little bit more, I decided to try it on a cheaper kit first and then to come backt to this one. For this task I chose a Hurricane Mk. I. by Airfix in 72nd scale adn I'll start new topic for this build. I also bought Mr. Levelling Thinner by Gunze and will try it with Tamiya acrylics, since I read on czech modelforum that its the best way to thin these paints for airbrush.
  9. Excelent build! May I ask what technique and material did you use to fix the shape of propeller cone holes?
  10. You are too kind sir! I appreciate it but honestly do not think that this is something special. It would harldy win any competition πŸ˜… but alright, to be honest I am quite satisfied with the result and the general feedback from here 😁 Thank you Yes, it is too big. Unfortunately it's already covered in mlultiple coats of clear varnish and washes so I do not think I could replace it. I'd definitely make more harm than good with such operation so I'm gonna leave it this way. Next time I'll be more careful with aftermarket decals. It IS a beautiful plane, isn't it? Thank you Thank you It is hard indeed. But it's possible. For example Owen from Quick Kits does it I am courious about the whole airbrush thing. I'll have to get the hang of basics first, so I have old p-47 kit prepared in surfacer for basic training πŸ˜… Thank you very much They are there however. Ebside the engine nacelles fit adn fuselage windows niΒ΄ot fitting properly the kit was a pleasure to bulild!
  11. Thank you! It is a nice kit indeed. I think I'll do the Airfix's H6 version too since I like the desert camouflage schemes. Thank you very much, I appreciate your kind words The photos are flattering the build a little bit tbh. I guess that I am seeing the mistakes since I made them and know exactly where they are. Thank you! I used large (size "24 πŸ˜…) soft flat brush by DaVinci - the Junior line. I can highly recommend these brushes! Thank you very much, I am flattered! 😁 I intended to make worn aircraft. Luckily it ended up quite decent, but throught he build there were several occasions when I thought that I overdone it. ItΒ¨s not really visible on the photos but before applying oils, I made scratches with alluminium paint. And especially scratches on the leading edge of wings seemed too much to me. But the washes toned them down a lot so it's okay. Perhaps I should have added some tiny scratches on the canopy frame. I forgot about it since I put the canopy on the finishing process, after the weathering is done Its just practical, to avoid smearing of the clear parts since I do not mask them. Thanks! I'm not sure if I understand you correctly πŸ˜…but this is not old kit, it's new mold from 2016.
  12. Finally, after two years I finished this bad boy! Most of the time it was sitting on my shelf waiting for painting, unfortunately I just didn't have time to work on it. The He 111 is definitely my favourite Luftwaffe bomber, I just love it's shape of wings and the greenhouse cockpit. The kit is nicely detailed for the scale and goes together nicely. Unfortuantely you won't see any internal detail after the assembly but that's the issue with most bombers. There are fit issues with engine nacelles and the fuselage windows. Also the lack of bombs is quite unpleasant so I solved it with the bomb bay closed. Other than that it was calm adn nice build. The whole kit is brush painted. I used various Revell Aqua colors and I also bought set of Humbrol acrylic RLM 02, 65, 70, 71 for the camouflage. The Humbrol paints are alright, I used their original acrylic thinner for the camo. However i think that they are little bit too grainy/rough in comparison to Revell Aqua paints, which have smooth finish in my experience. With my next model, I'm going to use airbrush for the first time. I also got aftermarket decals for swastikas by Tally ho! ,,Luftwaffe heavy fighters and bombers for 1/72 scale" I have several complaints about them. First: they seem out of scale. At least the one assigned for He 111. I looked at historical photos and it seems that the cross should be smaller, not cool. Second thing: they are unneccessarily complex. You have separate white outline crosses and separate black inner crosses. And you have to align them properly, so you have to put on the white outline first, then put a coat of gloss varnish on it and then you can apply the black inner cross. Third: they are EXTREMELY soft and fragile. In combination with their compelxity and necessity to align the outline with the center it's really not good product at all. So if you are looking for aftermarket swastikas in 1/72 scale, don't bother with those by Tally ho! Things I tried for the first time with this kit: oil paint weathering and panel line highliting, scratch built seat belts from masking tape, pigment weathering on the undercarriage wheels (pigment made from koh-i-noor hard pastels). There was also an attempt to rigg the radio antenna but the fishing wire is probably not the best material for this purpose. It just didn't stick to the superglue so I gave up after several tries. Maybe next time or later with this kit. I know there are mistakes. The built up paint from masking is visible a lot between the camouflage patterns. Even though I tried to paint away from the edge to prevent the biuld up, it just happened. Also the connection at wing roots is not smoothed out perfectly after the putty, so I have to work on the cleanliness of my building part next time.
  13. Alright, quick update! First of all, thank you all for advices and comments πŸ‘ In the end I used ordinary revell putty to fill the wing root gaps. I did put masking tape around the gaps and used really small amount of the putty, then applied it with a pointy toothpick straight into the gap, while scraping the excess immediately to avoid surface detail destruction. Now that the surfacer is on (had a minor pooling accident on the engine cowling, however it levelled out without a problem and it's not visible at all! all the rivets and detail is still visible ), the model is ready for painting. As I said in the intro, this is going to be my first time with airbush, therefore I took old P-47 kit, covered it with surfacer too, and I am going to practice with it before I'll move on to the butcher bird. So have some patience please. In the meantime, I should also finish He 111 P2 which is currently on my bench (have to finish oil washes and weathering, with final touches), so you can look forward to that one too if you happen to be interrested
  14. that sounds interresting. i guess it should be easier, as both substances will flow better than putty and i need to fill gap between two sides? i'll try it on an old model first. thanks for the tip
  15. Here is some progress: I assembled the wheel well. This part was quite tricky due to some pieces not aligning properly. Sanding was needed with the central part under the wheel well to let the well sit properly on the wings. The whole well is from 10 parts (wings not included) so the building process is quite complex for a 72nd scale model. The tolerance is almost nonexistent so assemble everything BEFORE painting! The detail is amazing though! Then I glued the upper part of wings on the already assembled lower part. The next step was to get the wings together with the fuselage. I also glued on the windshield cover. I carefully applied basic Revell Contacta with help of a toothpick to avoid pooling. Luckily, there was no fogging on the clear part. And now it finally looks like a Focke Wulf! Unfortunately, I got a gap at wing roots, especially on the starboard side. The gap is cca 0,5 mm wide, it's really tiny. The view from the wheel well shows it better. Port side looks better but the gap is still there, especially next to the flaps area πŸ˜• Now I am not sure about the next step. I am afraid to use ordinary putty, since I am afraid that I'll destroy the surface detail. Does anybody know if it can be fixed only with a coat of Mr.Surfacer (1200, spraycan)?? At least the generall geometry of wings is correct
  16. Beautiful work, I can feel the speed and hear the engines roar
  17. So, after I let the oil washes dry properly I wanted to coat the whole cockpit with semi-gloss clear varnish. For this purpose I wanted to try acrylic clear varnish by Humbrol. Unfortunately this product made white spots all over the cockpit and engine, even though I mixed it properly. I tried to put it on a spare mig15 wing after that and it did the same thing. After this unfortunate disaster I had to fix the spots with another layer of paint. Luckilly I think that I quite managed to fix it and still might let the cockpit open, once the model is finished. Here you can see the white spots after the Humbrol Semi-Gloss Acrylic Clear varnish, so after that it went to the bin. Btw, can anyone recommend some foolproof gloss and flat acrylic varnish? Even better if suitable for airbrush. After that I assembled the fuselage halves together. There was a little bit of sanding needed on the area of PE side control panels. The assembly is little bit too complex for my taste however if you dry fit everything after every single step, there should be no problem, the fit is perfect and there was no filler needed yet. Notice, that since it's the A8/R2 version, there are no machine guns in the fuselage. Some of the R2s had the holes covered with special cowling part, some were left with open holes, such as this one. I chose this option since I'm going to build the von Kornatzki's GrΓΌn 3 which had the holes open.
  18. It is a great kit. Little bit more complex than usuall 1/72 scale kit, but if you dry fit everything, there should be no problem. It is a really good kit so far indeed.
  19. Here is the result after washes. I used black oil paint for this purpose. Weathering techniques in general is a field where I have the least experience. I usually overdo it. I am also aware that the seatbelts should be more adhering/copying the shape of the seat. Unfortunately I tried to shape them after they were glued and they snaped so i had to re-do it and I didn't dare to shape them anymore to prevent any further snaping.
  20. I started with the cockpit assembly. Even though I said it's going to be my first airbrushed model, the cockpit is still brushpainted since I had some leftover humbrol rlm 66 acrylic paint left from my previous He111 build. The kit is extremely clean-cut so after i painted the pilots seat it was quite difficult to put it in the cockpit and it ended up slightly crooked to the left side. I should have assembled the whole cockpit first and only then paint it. After the assembly I did light drybrushing with revell aqua alluminium. Now is the time for washes.
  21. This is my 5th build after I came back to modelling and also my first model where I'm going to use airbrush, therefore I decided to document the build. The kit is by Eduard.
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