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Svedberg

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  1. Svedberg
    True. Some paint solvents react with the foam and literally eats it. Other stuff, like marker pen ink, bleed into the foam just like you say and is impossible to overpaint. How do I know? πŸ˜€ The latex paint avoids this and at the same time gives a good covering.
  2. Svedberg
    I'm not sure Nick. If the problem is that you need to seal the material, yes. But in this case I thought the problem was to find something that simply covers the pink colour. My experience is that extruded foam does not need much sealing, if any. Or perhaps I just misunderstood you. πŸ™‚ Here are some pictures of a diorama base of mine in some early stages. First the plain foam and then painted (one coat only) with a tan latex paint.
  3. Svedberg
    "Pink foam" is a kind of extruded foam. Used for building insulation purposes. Light blue is another commmon colur. In the model railroad community extruded foam boards are extensively used to build land forms. And there ordinary latex paint, the stuff you use when painting interior walls such as dry-wall, is used to hide the pink colour, before adding various scenery material. So pick up a can of latex paint at your nearest home improvement store. Much cheaper than any Vallejo colour. If it tends to hide your deatils, dilute with some water and apply several coats.
  4. Svedberg
    I must say, I am really in awe of how meticulously you attack every aspect of this build!
  5. Svedberg
    Thank you everybody. I am truely flattered!πŸ™‚ Yes, but as I said in an earlier post, those guys have already left for an early lunch πŸ˜€
  6. Svedberg
    Nice touch with the mud spray on the car sides.
  7. Svedberg
    Yes, that would be more like it. Not tea though. Rather coffee in paper cups. But in my scene they are all off on an early lunch, leaving the poor driver behind. πŸ™‚
  8. Svedberg
    Thanks everbody! No, I saved that detail for the trench dioarama that @Kallisti is about to build 😁
  9. Svedberg
    Ha Ha! I had quite the time getting that little sub-scene together. The hardest part was finding a suitable figure. In the end I used the one below. The angles of the arms are not 100% correct for what he is supposed to be up to. But it is close enough, when seen from behind. πŸ˜‰ Apart from that, I filed away at his parka to make it more like a shorter jacket and loosing the hood. The hard hat is from the original (sitting) driver that came included with the Hasegawa excavator kit. The reflective striping is plain household aluminum foil.
  10. Svedberg
    Thanks for the encouragement everybody!
  11. Svedberg
    The dioroma has been finished. Pictures are found in this RFI thread:
  12. Svedberg
    The dioaram I have been building, and described in this thread is done. Here are a some pictures. The cab is empty. Where has the driver gone? Here he is. Tending to urgent needs! Is the driver drunk? Starring eyes and the helmet askew πŸ™‚
  13. Svedberg
    Thanks a lot @Badder! I'm really happy with the barriers myself. Turned out better than I had hoped for πŸ™‚ I have never printed or copied any decals myself, but I know that it is possible. A quick search showed this, among others: Decal paper to be used for your own prints or for copying already existing decals. It says "Use your own laser printer" so I'm not sure it this paper works with inkjet printers. http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Finishes/Transfers/Item/Decal-paper-laser-photocopy-clear/ITM4546 Actually they have this paper also, which is said to work with inkjet printers http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Finishes/Transfers/Item/Decal-paper-inkjet-clear/ITM4557 I know that white is a problem when printing decals. You either need white decal paper or an Alps printer, which is a printer that can actually print white. To use white paper seems like a more affordable solution, but then you must very carefully trim your decals before applying them.
  14. Svedberg
    Thank you very much guys! I am really eager to get it all together and see how it finally turns out. πŸ˜€
  15. Svedberg
    Time to build the last items before putting everything together. The things I intended to build were a crash attenuator and some signs. Something like this: I started out with some tyres from Meng. I really needed 9 tyres to create three stacks with three tyres in each, but I did not want to buy three packages. The two I bought were pricey enough. Instead I cut one tyre in half and built the two missing halfes from modelling clay. By letting the clay tyre halfs face backwards, towards the concrete barrier that will sit behind the stacks, no one would be able to notice. Glueing the stacks together. Next, painting the them yellow... ...and adding a stripe of red. I created the signs from styrene, brass tubing and pieces of wood. Finally, the actual signage was added. End result, after some additional touch up and detailing. And as said initially, what remains is to put it all together. And adding some roadside vegetation.
  16. Svedberg
    To block off the hole in the road I needed some barriers. I had already set my eyes on this type of concrete barriers. I first thought it would be a good idea to 3D-print the barriers. So I drew a 3D-model of such a barrier, after having found the proper dimensions on the Internet. But it turned out it would be rather pricey to have such a barrier printed, not to mention the fact that I wanted at least four of them. I instead decided I should try to cast them in plaster. I built a mold using pieces of styrene card and strips. I made the mold so that it would cast only half (one side) of a barrier. To do it in that way would make it easier to get the casting out of the mold in one piece. For the same reason I also made the mold partly separable, and held together by a removable frame. Here is a picture of all the pieces, followed by one of the assembled mold. Here is the mold filled with plaster... ... and a casting, i.e. one half of a barrier. Once I hade made 8 castings I could assemble them into 4 barriers. To finish them off I first filed the bevels on the corners. I thought that a few strokes with a file would be easier than trying to build the bevels into the mold. Following that, I airbrushed them a gray color, wheathered them and added the hardware that makes it possible to link several barriers together. Here are a few pictures. I assume the blue triangles, which I duplicated from a real-life picture, is a company logo, but that it also serves to identify one specific end of the barriers. If they shall be linked together they must all be turned the same way. Otherwise the hardware (a simple link and pin system) will not fit together. That is my guess at least. πŸ™‚
  17. Svedberg
    The road pavement is done, at least more or less. I used drywall spackle for this. Here is the spackle with a first light coat of paint. The surface is a little uneven and dented, but that only adds to the realism, I think. I then added more coats of paint trying to simulate that stripy pattern that the roads, at least here, obtain after a few years. The wear and tear from the car wheels, especially the studded tyres used during winter, makes lighter colored "tracks" in the asphalt. This besides the fact that the asphalt is generally bleached and is more gray than black. Last I added some road markings.
  18. Svedberg
    Thanks Jeroen! And all others, thank you for all your likes!
  19. Svedberg
    In the previous post I said that road paving would be the next step. That is still true, and is ongoing. But there is not yet very much of interest to see. Instead I want to show something else related to the same diorama. Around here a special type of marker signs are very common when traffic needs to be temporarily diverted. The signs look like as in the picture below. So I obviously needed a bunch of those. I made the actual signs from pieces of strip styrene, while I made the base plates using wood model wall cladding. The signs were painted orange. Instead of trying to paint the stripes I used a photo of a sign which I cropped so that only the striping remained, scaled down to 1/35, duplicated and printed on ordinary letter/copy paper. There is actually two stripe patterns for each sign. One for each side, with the stripes "pointing" in opposite directions (left/right). I cut out the signs and glued them in place. Here is the result.
  20. Svedberg
    I was going to say weathering powders. But that is perhaps the same as pigments, or is it not?
  21. Svedberg
    My too long and not that round hole is nearing completion. I added a crossing pipe and a conduit, with marker tape to match. No wires hanging out though. ο»ΏπŸ™‚ Next I will pave the road.
  22. Svedberg
    So, in the end, the hole served a good purpose 😱
  23. Svedberg
    Ha ha! Mr Cribbins. Never heard of him! But a quick google on "bernhard cribbins hole" gives a lot of hits. So I guess you're all on to something πŸ˜€ Might it be that "the hole" never became an international hit? πŸ€ͺ
  24. Svedberg
    I have added som stones and gravel to the trench. Finer material towards the surface and the road, and coarser material lower down. The dirt and clay guck I added yesterday turned a bit to light when it dried. I need to darken that part some.
  25. Svedberg
    Thanks for the explanation. I found sort of a reference here, but with another spelling: https://www.stone-ideas.com/13426/miscellaneous-pif-paf-pouf-in-the-woods/
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