Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)

Svedberg

Members
  • Content Count

    123
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Svedberg

  1. Svedberg

    Fly swat grass applicator?

    Looks good. Congrats!
  2. Svedberg

    Fly swat grass applicator?

    Yes, of course you are right! That is not a resistor but a diode. I was actually a little suspicious myself and had intended to have a closer look, and get a better understanding on how these things work, before doing anything. But thanks for the warning! It convinced me I hade to investigate further. This is what I have understood: Both the diode (A) and the resistor (B) are sitting on the high voltage side of a step-up transformer. The diode is there to rectify the voltage (created by some kind of oscillator circuitry on the low voltage side). Without the diode the capacitor would not charge I guess, and to remove it sounds contra-productive. The resistor is a bleeder resistor, making the capacitor eventually discharge when you are done with the device. So it is hard to see how removing the resistor or bridgeing the diode would up the output voltage. Such a modification is more likey to destroy something, or make the device potentially dangerous. Conclusion, I will not attempt to modify the electronics.
  3. Svedberg

    Fly swat grass applicator?

    Apparently I could not let this resistor business be. So I did some internet searches on what resistors to remove. A few pictures turned up, but they are only useful when your circuit board happens to have the exact same layout as the one shown, so not much help there. But eventually I found a textual describtion (in this post http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=37186). It reads: "This is all you have to modify for the high powered version - Bridge the resistor in series with the capacitor (resistor A) with a bit of wire, and remove the resistor in parallel with the capacitor (resistor B ) entirely.". With this info it was easy to identify the resistors on my circuit board. Just to illustrate, here is a picture, which of course is as useless as all others unless you happen to have bought a swatter with exactly the same board as in the one I bought. I guess I need to make the modification to see if it makes any difference, but that will be for another day. Now me and the wife are going to watch the next installment of French spy TV-series "The Bureau". EDIT: Component 'A' above is not a resistor, as pointed out by @Circloy. You are probably safer not doing the modification as cited above. Do also see subsequent posting below.
  4. Svedberg

    Fly swat grass applicator?

    No I did not remove any resistor. I did not know that was an option. Yes I am. I think it works OK, but removing that resistor is not a bad idea. More power will not hurt (unless you touch the sieve ), assuming "power" in this case simply means a higher output voltage.
  5. Svedberg

    Fly swat grass applicator?

    I built one of these some time ago, from more or less exactly the same stuff. It think it was a rather straightforward build, so I don't have much advice to add. One thing I did was that I permanently soldered a metal pin to the loose end of the "ground" wire. That I think was a small but significant improvement compared to the usual alligator-clip-and-nail solution (which I have on another applicator).
  6. Svedberg

    pink foam priming

    I'm sorry if you got the impression that did not take this seriously, because I really am.
  7. Svedberg

    pink foam priming

    True. Some paint solvents react with the foam and literally eats it. Other stuff, like marker pen ink, bleed into the foam just like you say and is impossible to overpaint. How do I know? The latex paint avoids this and at the same time gives a good covering.
  8. Svedberg

    pink foam priming

    I'm not sure Nick. If the problem is that you need to seal the material, yes. But in this case I thought the problem was to find something that simply covers the pink colour. My experience is that extruded foam does not need much sealing, if any. Or perhaps I just misunderstood you. Here are some pictures of a diorama base of mine in some early stages. First the plain foam and then painted (one coat only) with a tan latex paint.
  9. Svedberg

    pink foam priming

    "Pink foam" is a kind of extruded foam. Used for building insulation purposes. Light blue is another commmon colur. In the model railroad community extruded foam boards are extensively used to build land forms. And there ordinary latex paint, the stuff you use when painting interior walls such as dry-wall, is used to hide the pink colour, before adding various scenery material. So pick up a can of latex paint at your nearest home improvement store. Much cheaper than any Vallejo colour. If it tends to hide your deatils, dilute with some water and apply several coats.
  10. The dioaram I have been building, and described in this thread is done. Here are a some pictures. The cab is empty. Where has the driver gone? Here he is. Tending to urgent needs! Is the driver drunk? Starring eyes and the helmet askew
  11. I must say, I am really in awe of how meticulously you attack every aspect of this build!
  12. Thank you everybody. I am truely flattered! Yes, but as I said in an earlier post, those guys have already left for an early lunch
  13. Svedberg

    The Charger

    Nice touch with the mud spray on the car sides.
  14. Yes, that would be more like it. Not tea though. Rather coffee in paper cups. But in my scene they are all off on an early lunch, leaving the poor driver behind.
  15. Thanks everbody! No, I saved that detail for the trench dioarama that @Kallisti is about to build
  16. Ha Ha! I had quite the time getting that little sub-scene together. The hardest part was finding a suitable figure. In the end I used the one below. The angles of the arms are not 100% correct for what he is supposed to be up to. But it is close enough, when seen from behind. Apart from that, I filed away at his parka to make it more like a shorter jacket and loosing the hood. The hard hat is from the original (sitting) driver that came included with the Hasegawa excavator kit. The reflective striping is plain household aluminum foil.
  17. Thanks for the encouragement everybody!
  18. I have started on a diorama to show off the Hitachi Zaxis 135US Excavator i built earlier. If you care to have a look at the excavator itself it is here: Since an excavator is intended to dig, as far as I know , I wanted the scene to show just that - an excavator digging a hole. I have settled on road work scene where one of the lanes of a street has been blocked off with barriers, and the behind the barriers the digger is at work. My scene plan/sketch looks like this: Apart from the stuff shown above I intend to add other details as well, like various signs, traffic cones and likewise. So far I have also cut the diorama base from piece of extruded foam. The foam is 5 cm (2") thick which hopefully is enough for the depth of a decent looking hole.
  19. The dioroma has been finished. Pictures are found in this RFI thread:
  20. Thanks a lot @Badder! I'm really happy with the barriers myself. Turned out better than I had hoped for I have never printed or copied any decals myself, but I know that it is possible. A quick search showed this, among others: Decal paper to be used for your own prints or for copying already existing decals. It says "Use your own laser printer" so I'm not sure it this paper works with inkjet printers. http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Finishes/Transfers/Item/Decal-paper-laser-photocopy-clear/ITM4546 Actually they have this paper also, which is said to work with inkjet printers http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Finishes/Transfers/Item/Decal-paper-inkjet-clear/ITM4557 I know that white is a problem when printing decals. You either need white decal paper or an Alps printer, which is a printer that can actually print white. To use white paper seems like a more affordable solution, but then you must very carefully trim your decals before applying them.
  21. Thank you very much guys! I am really eager to get it all together and see how it finally turns out.
  22. Time to build the last items before putting everything together. The things I intended to build were a crash attenuator and some signs. Something like this: I started out with some tyres from Meng. I really needed 9 tyres to create three stacks with three tyres in each, but I did not want to buy three packages. The two I bought were pricey enough. Instead I cut one tyre in half and built the two missing halfes from modelling clay. By letting the clay tyre halfs face backwards, towards the concrete barrier that will sit behind the stacks, no one would be able to notice. Glueing the stacks together. Next, painting the them yellow... ...and adding a stripe of red. I created the signs from styrene, brass tubing and pieces of wood. Finally, the actual signage was added. End result, after some additional touch up and detailing. And as said initially, what remains is to put it all together. And adding some roadside vegetation.
  23. To block off the hole in the road I needed some barriers. I had already set my eyes on this type of concrete barriers. I first thought it would be a good idea to 3D-print the barriers. So I drew a 3D-model of such a barrier, after having found the proper dimensions on the Internet. But it turned out it would be rather pricey to have such a barrier printed, not to mention the fact that I wanted at least four of them. I instead decided I should try to cast them in plaster. I built a mold using pieces of styrene card and strips. I made the mold so that it would cast only half (one side) of a barrier. To do it in that way would make it easier to get the casting out of the mold in one piece. For the same reason I also made the mold partly separable, and held together by a removable frame. Here is a picture of all the pieces, followed by one of the assembled mold. Here is the mold filled with plaster... ... and a casting, i.e. one half of a barrier. Once I hade made 8 castings I could assemble them into 4 barriers. To finish them off I first filed the bevels on the corners. I thought that a few strokes with a file would be easier than trying to build the bevels into the mold. Following that, I airbrushed them a gray color, wheathered them and added the hardware that makes it possible to link several barriers together. Here are a few pictures. I assume the blue triangles, which I duplicated from a real-life picture, is a company logo, but that it also serves to identify one specific end of the barriers. If they shall be linked together they must all be turned the same way. Otherwise the hardware (a simple link and pin system) will not fit together. That is my guess at least.
  24. The road pavement is done, at least more or less. I used drywall spackle for this. Here is the spackle with a first light coat of paint. The surface is a little uneven and dented, but that only adds to the realism, I think. I then added more coats of paint trying to simulate that stripy pattern that the roads, at least here, obtain after a few years. The wear and tear from the car wheels, especially the studded tyres used during winter, makes lighter colored "tracks" in the asphalt. This besides the fact that the asphalt is generally bleached and is more gray than black. Last I added some road markings.
  25. Thanks Jeroen! And all others, thank you for all your likes!
×