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Svedberg

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Everything posted by Svedberg

  1. Glad to be of help. I have learned a lot from him myself. He is very talented and versatile. But he does get on a bit, as you noted earlier. šŸ™‚
  2. If you want to go all in when it comes to tree making: https://youtu.be/DwADkiE3lSo?si=63mUbJEhHDxqqKH1 šŸ¤ŖšŸ˜Ž
  3. Great job on the eaten away fuselage and wings! Looks very convincing.
  4. Thanks everyone. Iā€™m glad that you like the build and realizing that others appreciate it of course contributes to the joy of creating it.
  5. Bikes, fridge and all other stuff glued in place, so I now consider this build ready and done. Here is an overview shot. More pictures in the Gallery thread.
  6. I hereby declare my "Everyday Decay" diorama/vignette/scene, whatever you want to call it, done. Here are some pictures. Please enjoy! The build thread is here: Thanks for watching!
  7. Yes, I have also picked this up on Youtube. I first saw it on the Boomer Diorama channel and then later on Night Shift. Thanks Trevor.
  8. First paint pass on the grass - buff. And then a number of passes with green and greenish-yellow tones, and some others. The grass-less patches also got some color. I wanted a somewhat dried out look, not anything lush, so I think I'll stop here and see what it looks like when I have added the wall and the decaying stuff, and uncovered the street.
  9. I added some more grass tufts, and soma more 6 mm static grass as well. And now, @Trevor L the intriguing step : paint all of the grass and terrain black! šŸ™ƒ Why would you like to do a thing like that? Firstly, if you use a variety of different vegetation materials of different brands the effect might end up a little off, often with colors a little too bright and shiny (natural colors are often very subdued), and perhaps not fitting the season or locale you want to recreate. One way to get round that is by airbrushing everything with colors of your own choice, and for this to work you would like a consistent base color, like a primer. Using black as that color furthermore helps creating fake shadows and depth. None of this is my idea to start with, but something I have picked up from various online sources. But I have used it before, and like it. I hope it works this time as well, and that I'm not making a fool of myself. It is always a little scary. šŸ˜„
  10. I have only been building dioramas for a few years. Before that I was on and off in model railroading for many years, in all scales from Z to O, but mostly N. But in all cases scenerey building was my favorite part. I learned a lot that way which comes in handy when doing dioramas. But I still watch for instance Youtube videos to get new ideas and tips. There us always someting new to learn and try for yourself.
  11. Thanks. More work on the grass is coming. Some of it maybe a surprising move for some of you. šŸ™‚ I say no more.
  12. Proceeding with the "landscaping". I wrapped the wall in plastic and put it down where it will eventually sit. I then covered the surrounding ground with some pumice gel (an acrylic medium) to give it some texture. By wrapping the wall in plastic I could make it sit properly buried in the ground without risking smearing it with the gel. When the gel had set I removed the wall and painted the ground a brown color. As will eventually be evident (but not today) this step serves no real purpose at all. I just wanted to do this to make things look more "real" during the next step. Anyway, with the ground painted I went on to apply some static grass. But before I did that I test placed all the props (bikes, appliances and so on) so that I could mark their locations. I did not want any grass exactly at those spots since the things later placed there would then float on top of the grass in an unrealistic way. Here is what it looked like with 2.5 mm grass applied. On top of that, but not everywhere, I then added some 6 mm grass, after which it looked a bit more tousled and untidy. And that's it for tonight. šŸ˜Š
  13. Yes guess. And as your Steinman quote says: "If you don't go over the top, you can't see what's on the other side"
  14. The street was paved by glueing the stones one-by-one to the foam base. Madness? Anyhow, here they are all in place. After which they were painted and otherwise treated to make it all look like an old paved street. I also took the time to - Build and weather a barrel, supposedly used by some hobos for a warming fire. The barrel turned out a little odd. A real barrel is not constructed like that, but it will do. I'm after the impression. Not true fidelity. - Dip some scale sized pieces of corrugated (aluminum) sheeting in an etchant (ferric chloride solution) to give them a rusty look. - Make some loose bricks representing a few of those which have fallen off the wall.
  15. @Mark Cassidy, happy to hear that you like the wall. Iā€™m quite pleased with it myself. This is 1:35 scale. Interesting 6 blade knife. Something for Edward Scissorshand? šŸ™‚ The flaking plaster is just some grey drywall spackling compound, applied rather thin, and when dry sanded even thinner. Then it was painted and weatherd with some acrylic washes.
  16. I have begun laying out the scene itself. The base is a piece of foam on which the brick wall will sit at an angle, just to make it a little more lively. At the front a piece of a stone paved street will show. To get the rest of the terrain, and the wall, a bit higher than the street it will sit on a piece of foam board. That's the black piece in the picture above. Here is a picture of me cutting 4 mm cork into Belgian Blocks for the street. Yes, I could have scribed and carved the stones right out of the foam, but I just did a brick wall that way... šŸ˜œ
  17. Thank you all for the kind and encouraging words.
  18. More work on the brick wall. First some forming and sculpting in order to get a more varied and interesting look. Then some basic dark red brick color... ...followed by an attempt to create some color variation. Yes, this looks ridiculous, but don't fret. šŸ˜„ It will get better during the next steps... ...which was to cover the lot in a mixture of dry plaster and find sand. The basic purpose being to add mortar between the bricks. But when this was later wetted with alcohol followed by diluted PVA glue in order to bond it, it also helped to tone down the colors and add some mortar and plaster residue on the surface of the bricks. Since I was too eager, and did not way until the paint from the previous step had fully dried, it actually toned down the colors more than I had planned. But in the end I think that was OK. Finally, I added patches of spackling compound, painted and meant to look like remainders of the original plaster covering the wall. I also added some cap stones and did som general weathering.
  19. Also, I guess they are they are made of Chinesium, as most things you buy cheaply online. šŸ™‚
  20. Thanks a lot @Trevor L @Muchmirth, in that case you are not the only one! Thanks.
  21. I have started on the old brick wall which shall serve as a scenic background for the "decaying stuff". I am building the wall out of foam, of which I first cut a piece of suitable size. Then I scribed the brick contours into the foam with a hobby knife. The part where the bricks are missing will be an area of the wall where the original plaster still remains, thus obscuring the bricks. Next step was to widen the knife scribes to get the look of individual bricks. I used some dentist's tools for that (I don't know if they actually are authentic tools used by real dentists but that's how they were advertised šŸ˜€ ). I will do some more forming of the bricks, removing some and generally trying to get a more worn look.
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