HKR

I think this should not be a discussion about the IBG model, but about models in this scale in general - and I think it deserves a separate thread. Why do you accept the dividing lines in this case? In this scale, if you want to reduce everything perfectly in accordance with the scale, such a model absolutely should not have any parting lines between plates, and riveting. The only lines you should have on the model are those separating the control surfaces. Meanwhile, you are undecided: lines yes, rivets no. Where is the consistency here? I think it is a matter of expectations and understanding what a scale model is. Such a plastic toy will never be a scaled-down aircraft, it's just a scaled-down approximation of it. The more detail on the surface, the more it will give the impression of a real airplane, but it will only give the impression. It still remains a plastic toy. I, for example, have expectations extremely different from yours. I want my model on the shelf to pretend to be a real plane as much as possible. That's why I need those lines and rivets, that's why I use painting techniques that emphasize those details. And in the end: if you don't want rivets, however, it's easier to fill them in than to make them, isn't it?

I really hope there will be full riveting as on Radu's plans, the airplanes were riveted and on the model it is easiest to render them with small holes. I hope that the convex rivets will be raised there as in the real aircraft. In the photos of the planes you can see that these machines were very densely riveted.

Great job on that panel! In addition to the fact that the wing with the cannon had different panels on top, additionally the lower slats where the cannon was mounted looked different. But your work is still a good approximation of the subject. Since the Romanian machines never had the cannon mounted, these differences were very visible. Considering these differences and probably interesting paint schemes, I think you will be tempted to make another model when it becomes available

Just wait for future release - it is clearly in the pdf versions described

But you know that you can download the manual in pdf from the manufacturer's website, right? Then your "dilemmas" would hurt less. The things that don't suit you are well thought out. One by one: This detail is characteristic of very early machines and I believe they did not see the economic justification to make a plastic separate fuselage, so they gave a strip in the form of PE for gluing. I think this is a reasonable decision to keep the price of the kit low. Well done, Eduard. The holes are plugged in the model, of course, from the outside you will have to fill the lines. I think that this solution was again dictated by economy, this wing will be used in G versions where the holes will be useful. Again, I think Eduard did the right thing and these are good solutions. What do you mean when you write about the FuG 25 access cover? Under the Bf-109 fuselage there was a compass and control access cover and this is what I see in the model. Correct for the F version (and others). The optional glued-on armored glass provides the possibility of making a windscreen in both variants (up-armored and "light"). Again, I think this is a thoughtful decision. I think SH's solutions are different because they were cost-effective in their technology. With modern modeling glues, attaching the glass is not difficult, unless you feel like complaining, then yes. Are you sure this opinion is well thought out? Check yourself instruction

I'm afraid I still don't get where it is on the ZM model

I don't think I'm catching where this is, can you show/explain something closer?

I would add that this was a different wing - equipped with a cannon, which was not mounted (hence only two MG). And this wing differed in the panels on top and the slats on the bottom (within the cannon). So when IBG makes this version, you'll have a chance to build the correct one again But leaving aside the above, your model is very nice

This is me. The history of this nickname is very long, I chose it, so to speak, naturally and from lack of ideas. Hence my nickname here, HKR is simply an abbreviation of that one. Once, a long time ago, I dared to criticize a model of a certain company (no, it wasn't AH!) and since the criticism was legitimate its representative commented that showing mistakes in their company's models kills our hobby. In a nutshell, I became the killer of an entire industry. I thought that this is such abstract thinking that it is suitable to immortalize, hence the nickname.

Not that I'm an expert on Airacobra, but wasn't this cannon cover overlapped (and chamfered)?

From the FB: IBG responded there will be decal for digital camo. I have experience with MM decals and they are perfect both in terms of color/register and softness/adherence.

Neil, That's not quite the point of this thread. In both cases the model assembles perfectly. In the thread it is shown how to deal with problems if one encounters them and explained where they come from. Basically to avoid them. The gaps shown in the pictures are done on purpose, they are intentionally reproduced mistakes of other modellers. This is (perhaps not clearly enough?) indicated in the text and in the photos. Alternative assembly has nothing to do with those gaps, it is just showing that you can do it differently and it will work out fine. It was the result of observing other threads where people try to build a model without following the instruction (and you really should follow it).

And what now?

Ok, a little help: harsh light and macro does not help in judging these rivets. Personally I think they came out very well in this scale. The diameter is the same as on a real plane (most commonly used rivet head was 6mm in diameter, in scale it gives 0,08mm - remember that Focke-wulf was riveted with wide rivets...). The scale forces simplifications so the number of rivets in a line is reduced - it is obvious that it is impossible to reproduce it perfectly in this scale. I estimate that every second rivet in the stitch was omitted. Whether it is adequate, everyone can judge for himself. Panel lines are thinner than in competitive models of the same aircraft (I compared Tamiya, Hasegawa and RV/AZ/KP). For scale evaluation I added a match and a pin, the match is 44mm (1.73in) long. The plastic is great quality but I get the impression that it is slightly glassy and this gives the illusion of blurred edges. This is not the case. The edges are sharp and very nice - which you can see only after spraying the surfacer or paint. In the picture below you can see the difference between two parts from the same batch - only the surfacer shows the real details. I hope it helped*. *I take no responsibility for compulsively buying excess quantities of this model and overloading your magazines.

I fully understand it and I also think that it is only a matter of taste. I respect your opinion, I have different taste and for example I like rivets and make them on all my models. But both our opinions have no meaning for the manufacturers - they choose what they want to do and give us. We vote with our wallets if we like what they offer. I like this model very much, so I vote yes