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About teddylindsey

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  1. I was finally able to wrap up the model by applying some GW Lahmian Medium to the black portions of the model to knock down the shine. It took about three coats to give a nice flat finish, so I was able to modulate the glossiness somewhat to differentiate the materials a bit, although the photos are too high contrast to show it. I purchased a softball display box and used a 3/8” Forstner bit to create a 1.5mm deep counterbore in the bottom center of the box that is a perfectly snug fit for a 10mm ring magnet. I then glued another 10mm ring magnet to the bottom of the sculpture base that I had modeled to have a an inner recess of 2mm height. I then test fit the magnets and marked the bottommost magnet to denote the forward direction. Lastly, I glued the bottom magnet into the counterbored recess in the box and the sculpture is now secure when being moved. The magnets are not strong enough to prevent it from coming loose if the box is shaken vigourously, but it definitely keeps it from sliding around inside the box. After looking at the photos, I noticed a number of flaws that were not immediately apparent from normal ocular inspection, e.g., I failed to clean up some specks of black from the wash that “went outside the lines” before I sealed it in with another coat of gloss. I’m going to have to make a set of macro photos part of my process before I commit to something permanent like a gloss coat in the future. Last step is to create a custom box after I return from another trip and then finally give him his belated birthday present.
  2. Thanks, @j_holtslander! I replied to your comment on my blog with the paint colors that I used for the panels.
  3. @Will Vale Good suggestion about adding some weathering and damage to make the imperfections less noticeable. All of my previous 3D prints have been pretty weathered and non-glossy, so the imperfections haven't been noticeable. I may give this model another shot at some point and spend some time smoothing out the surfaces a bit. The challenge is actually seeing the layer lines without first applying a layer of primer to provide better contrast.
  4. I failed to document my progress along the way and the model is getting pretty close to finished. Unfortunately, it wasn't until I was pretty far into the project that I realized I should have sanded down ALL the surfaces of the model that would end up glossy white, as @Silenoz suggested, rather than just the obviously stepped regions near the crown of the helmet. I used Vallejo Game Color Black for all the black portions and used a bit of Flory Wash Gray to add some depth to creases in the armor. I dry brushed on some Vallejo Model Color Anthracite Gray to highlight the ridges of the undersuit, although it doesn't show up in the photos. I coated everything in TS-13 Clear Laquer for a nice gloss and then applied Vallejo Matte Varnish to some of dark areas to knock down the shine. The white lettering is Vallejo Plastic Putty that was squeezed into the lettering recesses, then wiped clean. I did notice that the putty has a tendency to shrink in volume as it dries and can pull away from the edges of some corners. Thus, I had to apply the putty a second time to fill in the gaps. I've definitely learned that smooth, glossy white is a very unforgiving surface since it makes any blemish or flaw very apparent. The layer lines of the 3D print are noticeable in the photo, although it looks great at normal viewing distance. However, next time I will need to spend much more time in the prep phase.
  5. Your weathering technique with the sanding stick is spectacular! It really sells the impression that these are big pieces of heavy machinery.
  6. I would love to learn how to make molds and create resin copies of my models! However, I'm probably better suited to creating the 3D models and painting the printed results rather than the craftsmanship required for high quality resin castings. It seems that there are some firms such as Ravenstar Studios who specialize in creating resin castings from original masters and I've been considering this approach for my line of Traveller starships that I've been working on (see this thread). I need to contact them and get a quote when I have time between my travels.
  7. I laid down a light coat of Badger Stynylrez White primer followed by a coat of Tamiya TS-26 Pure White. This revealed my mistake in thinking that the layer lines were perfectly smooth, which they are not. You can't really see the lines unless viewed in a macro shot like the closeups below, but they are present. Luckily, after applying a couple more coats of TS-26 Pure White followed by a coat of TS-13 Clear Laquer, I was able to achieve the smooth, shiny surface I was aiming for.
  8. My brother is a huge Star Wars fan and quite an accomplished cosplay crafter as well. For his 47th birthday, I'm creating a small First Order Stormtrooper bust for him. Since I'm still learning how to sculpt in Zbrush, I purchased a 3D model online and will be modifying it into a customized 3D printed model. The model I purchased features a classical sculptural base. It looks nice, but I have an idea for a base that features the First Order emblem. First, I created the base in my favorite NURBS modeler and added a 1cm hole in the center. The Aurubesh text is my brother's name and age. Next I turned to customizing the model in Zbrush. First, I trimmed off the original cylindrical base and add a 1cm wide post. The space between the helmet and the torso is pretty tight, so I separated the geometry at the neck and add a mounting post with a matching recess in the helmet. I tried to align the separation between the folds of the neck piece as best I could. Then I imported my custom base and checked the alignment digitally. Next, I sent the geometry to my Form 2 SLA printer and waited for nine hours for the print to complete. After an isopropyl alcohol bath to remove residual resin, the model parts were ready. Here are the parts still attached to their printing supports. I did a little clean up of the parts and put them together for quick test fit. Surfaces that have a gradual slope that ends in a horizontal surface tend to have faint stair step lines from the printing process, in this case they were 0.05mm layers for the model. The sanded portion on the top of the helm is where I lightly sanded the layer lines away. In the photo below, the horizontal lines that are visible are actually completely smooth. I'll be performing additional sanding and clean up in the morning, then onto priming and painting.
  9. I've had a number of people ask me this same question and it would require acquiring a license for the Traveller brand, which I'm exploring, especially since I have a number of other starships and vehicles I'd like to build.
  10. Ah, that brings back old memories for me as well! I still have my original boxed set of Striker rules and while I never did find a group to play with, I spent many an afternoon in the 80s designing vehicles and weapon systems for my fictional mercenary company influenced by the Hammer's Slammers novels.
  11. Some of you may have seen my earlier WIP posts about creating this "Type S Scout/Courier" from the Traveller Sci-Fi RPG universe from concept art, through 3D modeling, 3D printing, prep and painting. My previous WIPs have all been at 1/350 scale, but I was intrigued by a suggestion to build it at 1/285 scale since it's a popular scale for Micro Armor war games, Warhammer 40K Epic scale and a variety of other terrain and miniatures. In the process of creating a larger scale build, I completely overhauled the geometry of the model, adding quite a bit more hull paneling detail that resolved very nicely in this slightly larger scale. I also added a number of weapon turret variants and built out the sensor pods found in the original artwork. All hull markings were airbrushed on with the help of custom vinyl paint masks that I created except for the small "Poni" symbol on the starboard side and the hazard markers on the rear airlock, which are custom water slide decals. The engines are not rocket exhausts, but "thruster plates", which are part of the ship's Manuever Drive unit, a sci-fi reactionless thurster. Thruster plates emit a bluish glow, like Cerenkov radiation, when operating. Hope you enjoy my latest model!
  12. Wow, the chipping, weathering and level of detail is fantastic! I'm inspired to try out chipping fluid in future builds. Thanks for sharing.
  13. Taking the lessons I learned from the previous model, I created an updated version of the model with the aim of improving detail in key areas as well as adding features to improve the “paintability”. It’s also the first time that I attempted to create my own water-slide decals. Background for Traveller Fans This model depicts a fleet courier, part of the Imperium’s 193rd Fleet, based in the Deneb Sector. This craft shows the wear and tear of heavy action during the Fifth Frontier War and has the “Bridled Steed” emblem of House Aledon emblazoned on the hull, denoting it was based out of a Regency Naval Base after Archduke Norris Aledon’s elevation to commander of the Imperial forces in the Spinward Marches in 1109. Improvements to the 3D Model I made a number of changes based on what I learned from the previous model. Increased the size of small details on the hull Deepened some ports and crevices to better hold washes Added inset panels for cargo area Extruded the portions of the hull along the leading edges to make accurate masking easier Added landing gear with optional covered bays or extended gear Added a beam turret Unified aft panel and thrusters as a single component since separate thrusters was unnecessary Hollowed out more of the hull and reduced the amount of resin required by 20%. Deepened the flight stand post and added an interior bolster column within the hollow hull Masks and Decals I exported a scaled 2D vector design of the model and brought that into Affinity Designer to add hull markings and text. I then created airbrush painting masks for some of the larger elements like the hull stripes, unicorn emblem and cargo bay markings. For the smaller elements such as arrows, circles and hazard bars, I printed these on laser waterslide decal paper. Since it’s impossible to print white on a laser printer unless you have Ghost White Toner (which I have on order), I could only create decals for the smaller markings that didn’t have white in them. Unfortunately, without a white backings, the colors (beside black) are translucent and appear desaturated on darker surfaces. I also failed to use a decal setter, so some of the decals “frosted” when clear coated later. I picked up some Micro Set and Micro Sol to hopefully remedy this situation in the future. Painting and Weathering I wanted a heavily weathered look to this ship to reflect its use as a fleet courier ship having seen combat, multiple ballistic reentries and hazardous fuel skimming from the upper atmosphere of gas giants. I also wanted a hull color reminiscent of modern naval ships. I primed the model using Badger Stynylrez Black then applied a mottled coat of Tamiya XF-82 Ocean Gray 2 for the hull and the leading edges were painted with VMA 71.115 Blue Gray. The white markings were masked and painted with VMA 71.119 White Gray and the small red arrows on the hull were painted with VMA 72.711 Gory Red. Scuffs and streaks were painted on with VMA 71.052 Anthracite Gray. I then gave everything a wash of Flory Dark Dirt, most of which was wiped away. I then gave selected areas a thin wash of Flory Black. Then I applied Vallejo Model Wash Dark Gray into the panel lines and areas that needed darker shadows.
  14. Finally wrapped this up over the weekend although the changes are pretty minimal. Mainly cleaned up some of the hull markings and added edge highlighting in some areas such as the missile turret. Then sealed everything with a coat of Testors Dullcote. I learned some valuable lessons during this project in terms of how to 3D model to get the best output for painting and I'm putting together my notes so that I can improve my next design. Below is a digram that I put together for reference, evaluating the size of specific model features to how they turned out with regards to "paintability". I'll be turning this into a set of guidelines for my next model. In fact, I might try giving this model another go, correcting the features that needed to be more prominent to show up better in the final painted model.
  15. Thanks, Will! I never had a chance to play any of the Traveller PC games, although it sounds like character creation was almost a minigame in itself like the pen and paper game. I guess when death is an option during the character creation process, the stakes are a little higher! BTW, what was the triangular ship you posted earlier in the thread? Was it cut from styrene sheet? It would certainly be a nice starting point for the classic Traveller Type S Scout.
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