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teddylindsey

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About teddylindsey

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  1. teddylindsey

    Bandai 1/144th Slave 1

    Wow, the chipping, weathering and level of detail is fantastic! I'm inspired to try out chipping fluid in future builds. Thanks for sharing.
  2. Taking the lessons I learned from the previous model, I created an updated version of the model with the aim of improving detail in key areas as well as adding features to improve the “paintability”. It’s also the first time that I attempted to create my own water-slide decals. Background for Traveller Fans This model depicts a fleet courier, part of the Imperium’s 193rd Fleet, based in the Deneb Sector. This craft shows the wear and tear of heavy action during the Fifth Frontier War and has the “Bridled Steed” emblem of House Aledon emblazoned on the hull, denoting it was based out of a Regency Naval Base after Archduke Norris Aledon’s elevation to commander of the Imperial forces in the Spinward Marches in 1109. Improvements to the 3D Model I made a number of changes based on what I learned from the previous model. Increased the size of small details on the hull Deepened some ports and crevices to better hold washes Added inset panels for cargo area Extruded the portions of the hull along the leading edges to make accurate masking easier Added landing gear with optional covered bays or extended gear Added a beam turret Unified aft panel and thrusters as a single component since separate thrusters was unnecessary Hollowed out more of the hull and reduced the amount of resin required by 20%. Deepened the flight stand post and added an interior bolster column within the hollow hull Masks and Decals I exported a scaled 2D vector design of the model and brought that into Affinity Designer to add hull markings and text. I then created airbrush painting masks for some of the larger elements like the hull stripes, unicorn emblem and cargo bay markings. For the smaller elements such as arrows, circles and hazard bars, I printed these on laser waterslide decal paper. Since it’s impossible to print white on a laser printer unless you have Ghost White Toner (which I have on order), I could only create decals for the smaller markings that didn’t have white in them. Unfortunately, without a white backings, the colors (beside black) are translucent and appear desaturated on darker surfaces. I also failed to use a decal setter, so some of the decals “frosted” when clear coated later. I picked up some Micro Set and Micro Sol to hopefully remedy this situation in the future. Painting and Weathering I wanted a heavily weathered look to this ship to reflect its use as a fleet courier ship having seen combat, multiple ballistic reentries and hazardous fuel skimming from the upper atmosphere of gas giants. I also wanted a hull color reminiscent of modern naval ships. I primed the model using Badger Stynylrez Black then applied a mottled coat of Tamiya XF-82 Ocean Gray 2 for the hull and the leading edges were painted with VMA 71.115 Blue Gray. The white markings were masked and painted with VMA 71.119 White Gray and the small red arrows on the hull were painted with VMA 72.711 Gory Red. Scuffs and streaks were painted on with VMA 71.052 Anthracite Gray. I then gave everything a wash of Flory Dark Dirt, most of which was wiped away. I then gave selected areas a thin wash of Flory Black. Then I applied Vallejo Model Wash Dark Gray into the panel lines and areas that needed darker shadows.
  3. Finally wrapped this up over the weekend although the changes are pretty minimal. Mainly cleaned up some of the hull markings and added edge highlighting in some areas such as the missile turret. Then sealed everything with a coat of Testors Dullcote. I learned some valuable lessons during this project in terms of how to 3D model to get the best output for painting and I'm putting together my notes so that I can improve my next design. Below is a digram that I put together for reference, evaluating the size of specific model features to how they turned out with regards to "paintability". I'll be turning this into a set of guidelines for my next model. In fact, I might try giving this model another go, correcting the features that needed to be more prominent to show up better in the final painted model.
  4. Thanks, Will! I never had a chance to play any of the Traveller PC games, although it sounds like character creation was almost a minigame in itself like the pen and paper game. I guess when death is an option during the character creation process, the stakes are a little higher! BTW, what was the triangular ship you posted earlier in the thread? Was it cut from styrene sheet? It would certainly be a nice starting point for the classic Traveller Type S Scout.
  5. Haha, no worries, Yeoman. I’m old enough that a few years plus or minus isn’t making a difference. And I agree that the 2300AD universe has some great designs. The entire setting had a hard sci-fi approach that’s not often replicated, especially in RPGs. I’d love to try modeling some of the fighters from the “Ships of the French Arm” book. As far as the books go, I luckily own my original sets from the 1990s and you can still purchase the PDFs online. QLI lost the right to sell 2320AD not long after it was initially published. I’m not even sure if it ever was printed a physical book rather than a PDF. The additional writing expanding the background of the universe by Colin Dunn was really good and I’d love to see it take form again some day. I seem to recall that they didn’t even release the book with all the art and layout completed due to production issues with the publisher. I also created an application that would map all the “actual” 7.7 light year stutterwarp routes based on more recent astronomical survey data which changed the map and routes of known space a bit. My code also output a 3D model of the starmap that I was able to render in 3D that looked fantastic. Not sure if it ever got used or not since the actual publishing of the book was a mess. I’ve got it posted in the 2320AD Art section of my site.
  6. Thank you! I'm not sure if this is the future of modeling for everyone, but it's certainly going to allow a broader range of people to bring their designs into physical form. For me, it's a dream come true to be able to fabricate a physical model of my art and designs.
  7. Thank you! I didn't create any of the illustrations for the original 2300AD games (I was still a kid) although I was a big fan of those artists such as David Deitrick, Bryan Gibson, Rob Caswell and Tom Peters. However, I did a number of illustrations for the 2320AD game, including the cover artwork, which came out around 2005. I have a gallery of some of the work I did for 2320AD here https://tedlindsey.com/2320-ad-artwork/ I also loved the tanks and hovercraft of David Deitrick from the 2300AD Ground Vehicle Guide. They really nailed the "near future sci-fi" feel of the Aliens film, which has always been a favorite sci-fi sub-genre for me. Speaking of combat walkers, for the 2320AD game, I redesigned the American BH-24 combat walker from the blocky original design to something more realistic with a little Ma.K vibe. Once I get my digital sculpting skills in ZBrush up to speed, I'd love to model and print this design.
  8. I masked out the lower portion of the hull that looks like heat shielding. After the large blocks of color were in place I sealed it with Tamiya Clear Semi-Gloss and started brushing on some Flory Wash Gray to bring out some of the details. Then I began focusing on the hull markings. I wanted to get close to my original rendering, so I was able to take the vector shapes I had created in Adobe Illustrator and create masks from low-tack transfer tape that were cut with my Cameo 3 cutter. Below you can see the mask for the Imperial Sunburst symbol which has a fringe of "sun flares" surrounding a red disc. Here you can see most of the markings in place. I'm very happy with how the Imperial Sunburst turned out. I've been impressed with how small the Cameo 3 is capable of cutting with accuracy. However, I did have some problems with the transfer tape allowing the paint to bleed underneath and I'll have to clean these up. I'm going to try cutting a sheet of Tamiya masking tape next time. I need to touch up the IISS (Imperial Interstellar Scout Service) lettering on the starboard side. The fine detail of the curves in the "S" didn't come out uniformly in the mask I cut. So I'm learning the limits of what the Cameo 3 cutter is capable of. I rubbed away most of the gray Flory Wash and added some Flory Wash Dark Dirt into the panel lines and around key details. I still need to add highlights and weathering, but it's coming together. Here are some turnaround shots in it's current state.
  9. teddylindsey

    Krieger Lunadiver variant - MANTA

    Beautiful model, Pete! That really nails the SF3D/Ma.K look and would make Kow Yokoyama proud.
  10. teddylindsey

    Remember the Cant!

    Nice models! Interestingly, the PrintedPlanes FAQ indicates that they are using the same printer I recently purchased, the Form 2 from FormLabs. What primer did you use, Mike?
  11. teddylindsey

    B-Wing - Bandai 1/72

    Wow! So great to see another masterpiece come together. I really appreciate the detailed walk through of your steps. I agree with Will, when are we going to see a modeling technique book?
  12. Thanks, Pete! I'm leaning towards one of the more "conventional" color schemes for this first model, either white/gray or the olive, but if this proves successful, I'll probably have another go with those color schemes. The bold hazard bar stripes of the Archduke Erechs design was always a favorite of mine. Unfortunately, masking out those shapes takes a LOT longer than coming up with the original design for texture maps in a graphics app.
  13. I primed the parts using a rattle can of GW Chaos Black. I generally prefer to airbrush on a base coat of Stynylrez Black Primer, but I noticed on an earlier print that it would not adhere well to the resin. I'm not sure if I possibly didn't let the resin cure enough or if it's just a property of the resin. More experimentation is required. Here you can see the aft section with maintenance panels and thrusters in place. I built the maintenance panels openings to have a little overhang to so that the visible parts recede into the shadows. Hopefully this will be more apparent once I get them painted up. Next, I airbrushed on a coat of Vallejo Model Air 71.121 Light Gull Gray over most of the ship and have left it to dry.
  14. Thank you, Will! I am trying to determine the color scheme although it will definitely have a dark gray or black "heat shield" covering the bottom and stretching up the sides of the fuselage. I have some various color schemes I did years ago here if you'd like to take a look. https://tedlindsey.com/traveller-artwork/ The NASA black and white would look very nice, sort of like the Ranger from Interstellar. The length of the classic wedge-shaped Type S Scout is 37.5m from tip to tail. Since this design is slightly shorter due to it's blunt nose, I estimated it would be about 34m long. Thus, the printed model is about 97mm in length. For comparison, the Millennium Falcon is specified as being 34.5m long in Star Wars canon. You're welcome, Gorby! I'm using a Form 2 printer from FormLabs, which is based in Boston, USA. I chose the Form 2 since I wanted a printer that didn't require lots of tinkering and had the highest resolution and reliability. Eventually, I'd like to use it for printing models of my own character designs, but I'm still working on improving my sculpting skills in Zbrush. Until then, I'm experimenting with "hard surface" modeling such as this starship.
  15. Removing the parts from the supports sprues is not too different than removing a conventional injection molded model part from the sprue, only multiply it by 25. It can actually be pretty tedious and requires a good amount of clean up with a scalpel and sanding sticks. I understand that more experienced folks will often override the automatic positioning of the support sprues to minimize the amount of clean up that might be required, especially around edges. This does carry the risk that the print will fail due to inadequate support but it's something I'd like to experiment with more in the future. I oriented the parts to minimize the number of supports that would be in contact with visible details of the model. It's also the reason why I separated out the aft panel since I could have the supports that linked to the aft of the ship covered up. Below you can see me in the midst of removing the supports, many of which left messy little nubs behind that required trimming and sanding. The parallel lines across each print are formed by the laser as it cures each 25 micron layer. While the surface appears to be rough, it's actually pretty smooth and the lines are more of a visual artifact that will be mostly be covered up by primer. The separating line in the middle of the airlock is only 0.13mm across. I couldn't even see this detail with my eye, but the camera picked it up. I modeled a recess in the turret hard point that would accept a 10mm neodymium magnet with a 10mm steel washer that will be attached to the underside of the missile turret, allowing 360° rotation.
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