Mattie Bee

As I said those are my thoughts, doesn't mean they are correct

They can but only the plain flaps. For a realistic look you will have to Scratch some Split flaps that sit under the Jet Pipes As you can see in this image Thanks to aburge on fighterops.com http://www.fighterops.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6170 She is awaiting the ISTAR Decals from Model Alliance and a lick of paint and antennas

A milestone passed tonight The wings are on!! and as always I need to fill in the gaps and tidy up And they are reasonably level Also need to sort the Wing root trailing edge to a more realistic profile as they come out at to steep an angle from the Inner engines. This is picked up in the Engine upgrade set and a great guide for those who have not got my references I have also started a diorama, No prizes i'm affraid for guessing what.

A Skid and everyone knows you turn in to it

He has lost 50% of his braking, so to stop he has placed the serviceable rotating wheels into the dirt to dig them in and stop relatively smoothly. Rather than jabbing the brakes and causing the aircraft to severely swing to the left causing more damage as the brakes on the blown wheels will no longer work as the maxorets will detect the slower skidding wheels and release brake pressure rendering them useless Or putting the blown, not rotating smoothly, wheels into the dirt sending excessive vibrations through the aircraft My thoughts

Still only able to work on this for short periods every so often. But I have managed to complete the main resin "transplant" on to the other wing. Just need to finish installing the Thrust Reversers and all the little details, Re-scribing Panel Lines and creating all the Outlets and Drains I have also Fitted the Vertical Stabilizer and extended the Canoe just need to tidy up and fill a few areas I have also created the Cabin Discharge Valve Outlet on the lower rear fuselage

Hopefully I'm giving plenty of advice as I build the aircraft. Sorry not alot has happened, the real thing and other projects have gotten in the way but I had a spare hour today and managed to do some detailing aroung the thrust reverser The Ventilation Doors and Joint Shroud vents Not going to do any more tonight as I know if I do i'll damage something

Can never say I have hit the Shark Fin, will hit it now I've said that, But the aircraft was on Jacks once about 3 Years ago and I came out of the lower access hatch and backed straight into the smaller Antenna. Right in to the Small of my back. Fell to the ground with the amount of pain, still get a little twinge from in a morning on these cold mornings we are having. Super work so far JJL567

Some fuselage detailing tonight. Rear Door Water Guard and LOX Fill point Panel (this is larger on the R1 as we have a fill point for 2 pots as the MRs and AEW only has 1) Starboard Window blanks APU Detailing (Even thought it should really be called a GTS as the APU on the Nimrod does not provide Electrics or Hydraulics) Port Door and Escape Hatch Blanks And Finally the Port Window blanks and front Door Water Guard Some tidying to be done once the Glue has dried fully especially around the APU then on to the other wing. Also I'm waiting for a set of Transparency Masks hence the reason I have not added the Cockpit Windows

Been working Nights this last week so its been trick to find time for the build, but I have and progressed slowly Mainly Working on the Wings I have the upper surface of the Starboard wing done. One tip I will take away is to install the Thrust reverse grill after the main resin replacement Intakes. I was forever in fear on knocking a part of the grill out, which unfortunately i have, but its not overly noticeable. That'll teach me! Also been "playing" with the fuselage and started to tidy up the nose taxi lamp will need to rescribe a few lines, but no issues there

The Fuselage halves were joined together last night, I have decided to leave out the "Bomb Bay Roof" as there needs to be some adjusting around the wing roots to accommodate the New intakes and as the R1 does not have Hydraulically operated Bomb Bay doors, instead manually operable Pannier doors which I will be describing later when I come to re-scribing the Pannier, I see no point to adding it. Just need to do some filling and filing then I can add the Vertical Stabilizer I need to get some plastercard this weekend so I can do the window Blanks and APU Details Now on to the part everyone has been waiting for.......................... The Intakes Much improved, Not 100% but as described with the lack of drawings and the complex shape of the intakes it is a huge undertaking. Very well done There is a fair bit of cutting and filing and the instructions are very clear with directions and illustrations. Not only are there the intakes but the upper surface of the Engine the Reverse thrust grills and Jet pipes so if you are not personally happy with the intakes you can use the upper surface grills and pipes on there own.

The window is 5mm further forward than it should be, but its a compromise which the whole kit is in reality, save re-scribing the whole thing. A vast improvement on my first one which I never noticed and placed it in the MR2 Beam window location. My main concern is the fact the Top of the Cockpit windows have a straight profile when looking head on, when it should curve up to the middle No not yet

XV249 first flew as a R1 in 1997

Finally Finished the Windows and Installed them all after a dip in Klear, including the Front and Rear Doors I may rub over the top of them with a fine grade Micromesh to give them that flush appearance like the Forward Starboard window I have also tidied and Painted up the Cockpit The reason I have cut the front radius off it is because of the Nose Taxi Lamp. I'll Explain The Nose Light is to high, a number of modellers have also noticed this. Moving the Nose down will mean it interferes with the location groves for the cockpit floor. So I have removed the groves cut around the Lamp and lowered to to a realistic height It will be filled and tidied up once the halves have come together

The Resin intakes are a vast improvement over what they originally was, and I will show images of it when I get to fitting them. Now on to today I have filed the excess Milliput. But managed to push out the Starboard Forward piece so have had to do that again, no worries there. Using the excess Milliput last night I have raised the Control Panel and widened it to a realistic level. I also raised the floor with a spare piece of balser that was laying about. once it is dry I will be tidied up and painted

All the Fuselage areas filled in Windows, Port Rear door, SCP Exhaust and the NACA ducts Leaving a small gap in the Starboard Forward window so I can open it out to the correct smaller size

Happy New Year to everyone. I have been asked by 51 Sqn to build them a model of an R1 Now I hoping to get this done before this years Waddington airshow so all of you that get to go will get to see this. I'm going to town on the detailing of this one and as such have decided to show you all the build step by every single step I know we usually start with a box shot, but I think we have seen enough for this particular kit. So I'll start with what I have purchased to build this Kit 2 Sets of Decals from Model Alliance H.S. Nimrod R.1/MR.2P Part I and HS/BAE Nimrod Stencil Data Set Part IV R.1 Current Grey Scheme The Nimrod Fin, SCP Intake & Nose Wheels Set from Alley Cat and also from Alley Cat The Nimrod Engine Upgrade set, which is absolutely great, after the discussions on this forum they have made a simple but effective alteration making this a must have for everyone building the Nimrod. The Build Ok I have started by making the necessary alterations to the fuselage to make this a R1 I have removed the Vertical Stabilizer for the Alley Cat resin and have also marked the windows that will need to be filled in. and have added a new one in the correct position on the Starboard side I will now fill these windows in with Milliput including the forward one on the Starboard side which I will file out the same as the new one I have added

With the Grey used on the R1 it is all one colour The new MR2 scheme, also applied to XW664 uses a White undercoat for the lower surfaces and a Black Undercoat for the upper which gives the lighter appearance

Looking really good JJL567. Which particular aircraft are you looking at recreating? And will you be re-scribing the Pannier Bay (Bomb Bay)? Any specific questions I'm more than happy to answer

Sorry didn't make that clear The Second set are in use, and are the ones we use at home, but like the first set are used with jet pipe blanks

Solid Blanks Soft Blanks Inflatable Blanks Sorry the last image is not clear its the only one I have. The first image we no longer use and would have been used with the Jet Pipe Blanks in magman2s post Second image same as first, used with Jet Pipe blanks The last ones are not used with Jet Pipe blanks, this are used on unsupported detachments when we don't take any extra kit or tools. Just the aircraft 1 of each trade and a basic tool kit.

There are 3 Types of Blanks. Original solid Blanks (No longer used) Soft Blanks (as above) And inflatable Blanks I have some images at home and will upload later, as I'm at work at the moment

I have the same kit, In fact 2 of them one to be built as a Dreadnought, I realy need to get on with them though Great work so far

Pushing it for the moment i'm afraid

a new mission systems fit