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Ben Brown

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Everything posted by Ben Brown

  1. Always happy to help! The F-100 is one of my favorite jets. If you want a natural metal F-100, you’ll need to pick one from prior to about 1957-58. That was around the time they started painting F-100s silver lacquer. The only 1/72 decals I’m aware of for the F-100C is an Xtradecals sheet and an ancient one (1980s) with Skyblazers livery, but I can’t recall the name. I think it was a German company. Xtradecal X72109 has decals for 54-1752, which flew across the Atlantic for a publicity stunt. It was NMF and carried 400-gal drop tanks (steal those from an F-101 Voodoo kit). It looks like the jets from the 454th FBS and the 36th TFW were also NMF. The 4th FDW jet was painted silver by the time depicted in the decals. Note that the style of the serial numbers, buzz numbers, USAF, and US AIR FORCE decals are completely wrong on this and every other Xtradecal F-100 sheet. There’s no excuse for botching them so badly; the Tech Order that shows exactly how these are to be designed has been available online for years! Others with more 1/72 knowledge might know of other F-100C decals. Ben
  2. They split several years ago in what looks like an especially nasty divorce. The US guy has since built a reputation for slow service and lack of communication, which was what I experienced. There’s a lot of discussion about it on this forum and on several other car-related forums. I’ve ordered from Gravity-Spain many times and have always had good service and quick communication. It usually only takes about a week to ten days to get an order to the US. EDIT: Keith types faster than me! Ben
  3. Thanks! Shipping’s ~£25 from Hiroboy, plus they have a note about a £65 surcharge. I can get them from SpotModel, I’d just has to wait for them to order from Zero. Ben
  4. @paulyoung666 Thank you! At first, I had my wheels backwards on one side before I realized something was wrong! I think the blue you used is a better match for the blue in the decals. I would have liked to have used Zero’s blue but their paints are almost impossible to get here in the US. Fortunately, Gravity- Spain and Splash Paints fill the void. Cheers! Ben
  5. Martin is right, you definitely want to fix the nose, too. Otherwise, it looks like it suffered a nose gear collapse. It's probably the most obvious flaw in the single-seat Trumpeter F-100 kits, next to the incorrect "sit," Renaissance makes great products. Another option is XMM's replacement nose with a complete intake duct. I don't have any experience with his 1/72 products, but I've used several of his 1/48 intakes and they're very nice. Ben
  6. The wings can’t be easily fixed, but you can fake it by replacing the kit wheels with some from Aires or Reskit and shortening the main gear struts by ~1 mm for the 1/72 kit. The nose gear strut can be cut and pinned (or just left alone). For the inboard main gear doors, you can glue them closed and fill the seams where the small sections attach. The doors were latched shut and didn’t bleed down when hydraulic pressure dropped. You’d often see parked F-100s with these and the large nose gear door closed. Use the 1/72 drawings from Detail & Scale to fix the tail. They were drawn by Dana Bell, IIRC, and are supposed to be pretty accurate. I don’t know of any fixes for the cockpit except for scratchbuilding. Fortunately, there isn’t much to see in 1/72. Ben
  7. There seems to be a rush of RS500s lately, so I thought I'd join the fun and post a few bad cell phone pics of mine. I found it on a certain auction site last November for $50 and placed the minimum bid, just for laughs. I expected the kit to go for at least twice that, but I ended up winning and found the kit also included the Labatt's decals from SK and a resin RHD dash board! You can still find a bargain every now and then there. I painted it with Gravity Colors - Spain's Labatt's Blue, which looks darker than Zero's color. I made seat belts from painted medical tape and hardware cut from thick foil, because I'm too cheap to buy photo etched hardware. The decals were very brittle and were flaking off before I could get a clear coat on, hence the damaged L in "Please." I've never had trouble before with SK's decals, so I'm guessing these had spent some time in a hot attic. Ben
  8. Beautiful build! Your paint looks flawless! Did you have any problems fitting the rear wing? That’s the only thing that gave me trouble when I built mine last month. Ben
  9. Looking great! I love the color choice. @PatW, I agree, we need a GT3 Evo version of this car. It's been very successful and has dozens of great liveries. Hopefully Aoshima or Nunu will release one someday. Ben
  10. I've read in at least one source that the gear doors could be RLM 65. Also, several sources say the ailerons were 81 on both sides, since they were interchangeable left and right. White 23 looks like the undersides are painted the same as the undersides of the wings. I haven't found any photos where the lower sides of the ailerons appeared to be anything but 76. Ben
  11. I’ll probably end up going with the yellow and black Pennzoil car from Indycals. They have the advantage of being readily available. Ben
  12. My wife bought me the Tamiya Porsche 911 GT1 kit for Christmas. Now I need to track down a set of Studio 27 Blue Coral decals for it. Looks like they might be unubtanium. Ben
  13. Welcome, fellow North Carolinian! This is a great forum. You’ll like it here! Ben
  14. I haven't seen Caracal's instructions, yet, but note that the A-10 has FS 34092 instead of FS 34079 for the dark green. The squadron with the F-16C in SEA camo got it right and used 34079. That said, the A-10 looks right in SEA camouflage! I think it was originally planned to be painted in those colors when it entered service. Ben
  15. Thanks for the replies! I may go with white, then. It’s not like it will be seen on the finished model, anyway. Also, thanks for pointing out the switches on the wing. I completely missed that. Ben
  16. I have the Tamiya Sierra RS500 Pumini Trampeo kit that I’m going to finish in the Labatt’s livery. The kit instructions has the underside of the Pumini car as white and the Texaco car black. So, any suggestions for the underside color of the blue Labatt’s car? Would it be blue, same as the rest of the body and interior, or were these cars delivered in white and then painted by the teams, making the underside of my car white? Or black? Thanks! Ben
  17. 1/48 Falcon 20 I think all the other airplane subjects on my list have been done in one form or another, not necessarily done well (1/144 B-52D for one), but done. As for other genres: 1/24 Lamborghini Huracan GT3 Evo 1/24 1st-gen Lotus Turbo Esprit 1/1400 Klingon K’Tinga battlecruiser Ben
  18. Note that the slats on that F-4F are out, too. There used to be a great USAF training video on YouTube that compared the slatted F-4E wings to the earlier, non-slatted wings. It showed the operation of the slats and flaps. It apparently disappeared when Periscope went under, so now there is only this short version showing the slats operating: Slats video Ben
  19. Glad to be of help! Yes, the flaps/slats were mechanically held in place, while the ailerons were hydraulically actuated. The USAF, USN, and USMC usually parked their F-4s with flaps up, unless they needed maintenance. I’ve read that the Germans often parked their F-4Fs flaps down/slats out for maintenance. As hydraulic pressure bled off after shutdown, the ailerons could be anywhere from up to fully down and everywhere in between. You’ll often see one side drooping more than the other until they’ve both bled all the way down. They’ll be all the way down if the jet has been parked for a while. I’ve been told that crew chiefs would sometimes push down on an aileron (probably by pushing directly on the NO PUSH stencil! ) to pop the opposite spoiler up for maintenance. Ben
  20. F-4 leading edge and trailing edge devices are so much fun! Almost as much fun as Spitfire wings. Trailing edge flaps were either up, half (can’t recall how many degrees), or down (again, can’t recall the degrees). On the leading edge slat-equipped F-4E, F, G, and S, any time the flaps were half or down, the leading edge slats were out (extended). Leading edge slats were either in or out; they didn’t have any intermediate positions. In the air, when the flaps were up, the slats operated automatically based on angle of attack. On the F-4C/D/E/F/G, ailerons (outboard of the trailing edge flaps) did not droop when the flaps were down, unlike the F-4B/J/S. On the F-4B, C, D, early E, and J, these versions had leading edge flaps (not slats) that dropped any time the flaps were lowered. Many F-4 fans call these “hard wing” jets to distinguish them from the slat-equipped jets. If you’re building your F-4 as parked and sitting on the ramp, the ailerons could both be lowered a little. They did this on all versions as the hydraulic pressure bled off after engine shutdown. HTH. Ben
  21. Beautiful build! Good call on the wing mirrors. They are oversized and their fit is a bit clumsy. Ben
  22. Outstanding! Inspiration for me to start mine soon. Well done, Andy! Ben
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