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Ben Brown

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Everything posted by Ben Brown

  1. Thanks! I had shelved the project but picked it up again just this past weekend. I'm planning to experiment with clear flat and very thin flat white to see what happens. Using acrylics, so I don't permanently screw something up! Ben
  2. This is Fujimi’s curbside MR2 Turbo kit built out of the box. It reminded me of Monogram’s simple but very nice 1/24 car kits from the ‘80s, except better-fitting. I took about 1.5 mm off the tops of the front coilovers to try to lower the nose a little, but it could stand to go another mm lower. Paint is Splash Paint’s Toyota Supra Deep Jewel Green, standing in for the Dark Emerald Pearl used on the MR2. My dream car project is to get one of these and drop a 300 hp Toyota V6 into it. Ben
  3. Accelerated down a highway on-ramp behind a pretty silver McLaren 570S yesterday. No, my turbocharged MX-5 couldn't keep up! Also, I've been seeing this Bricklin driving around town over the last couple of weeks and saw it again Wednesday. Turns out, it's up for sale on Bring-A-Trailer. I think I posted this pic in the previous thread. Ben
  4. Ah, I completely missed the reference! I have to admit, the F-35 is growing on me. Ben
  5. I’ve read that the USAF pilots are calling it the”Panther.” I guess that’s cooler than “Fat Amy.” Ben
  6. I agree that closing the open panels is challenging, because they fit poorly when closed. Tolerances between the engine bay bulkhead, main gear wells, speed brake wells, and gun bays are so tight it's easy to throw everything out of alignment. Start with the engine bay bulkhead and work your way forward. I left the gun bay parts out because of fit issues. Whomever at Kitty Hawk decided to use photo etched parts for the cockpit consoles and instrument panels needs to be kicked in the groin. To my knowledge, there are no cockpit upgrades available for this kit. I decided to use some resin seats from Pavla to try to distract from the featureless cockpit, but the cockpit floor is too shallow. I sanded so much resin from the seat bottoms that the seat cushions are basically resting on the cockpit floor. The KH kit is dimensionally larger than the Airfix/Heller Jag, so Paragon's afterburner nozzles and T.2 conversion and Phase Hangar's intakes made for Airfix won't fit the KH kit. Phase Hangar does make intake ducts for the KH kit, since KH didn't include any. The engine inlets on the KH kit are too large for the mating surfaces on the fuselage, so you get a step between the inlets and fuselage. Install the inboard sections first and then sand the outer sections until they fit without a step. Good luck! Ben
  7. Scale Finishes (LINK) also has a lot of NASCAR colors. He has a special section devoted to Salvino's kits. The web site is a little hard to navigate. He ships internationally, but read the FAQ about how he does it. I haven't used his paints, yet, but he gets good reviews on the car forums I frequent. Ben
  8. In all of my years of studying Phantoms, I've never noticed that step! That will be an interesting project if one decided to try to replicate it. I used 0.005 styrene to make the strap on my 1/48 Hasegawa F-4S. I agree with @Motty that the photo etched one provided in the kit was difficult to use. Cheers! Ben
  9. It would probably be for the best if they provided the wing strap as separate parts. Then they’d be able to use the wing without it so they could release a late model F-4E, too. Ben
  10. I saw this Bricklin in the hardware store parking lot last Sunday. I haven't seen one since the '80s, and this was the first one I've seen moving under its own power. Back then, a local shop had three of them in the back lot in various stages of decomposition. Ben
  11. That’s looking great! If you don’t want to use the provided screws to hold the pod in place, I found some 1 mm thick magnets on eBay that will fit in the gap between the fuselage and the pod. They’re just strong enough to hold the pod in place. I ended up gluing some to the top of the pod and a couple more on top of the crossbar. Artistic license! I would have tried to hide them under the crossbar and inside the pod, but I didn’t think of using magnets until after the pod was built. Ben
  12. The Monogram 1/48 kit is a mashup of the B and C. It has the C rotor and cabin section but a B tail boom. Cobra Company made a resin set to finish the job of making it a C; I think Lone Star Models sells it, now. The HobbyBoss 1/48 is mostly a B, with a C tail boom. Many Bs were modified as such. It has simplified detail, especially in the cockpit, and some incorrect details, but it’s a relatively simple build. The Monogram kit originally dates back to the early 60s, so it’s showing it’s age and will fight you every step of the way. I’ve seen some builders use bits from the Monogram kit to dress up the HobbyBoss kit. That’s probably the path I’m going to take on mine. Ben
  13. Regarding the optional mirrors… @galaxyg, beautiful work! Ben
  14. The seller appears to be "Jim Heller Decals and Custom Cars." I did a little digging and found this thread on Reddit. There were comments on a couple of other forums about stolen artwork, but there were also a lot of mentions of this seller without any negative comments. Ben
  15. Strange, I can see the pics fine on my iPad but not on my PC. Thanks for the explanation. It’s too late to do anything for my current FG.1 build, but I’m going to save the info for future “airplane nerd” conversations. Ben
  16. Thanks for the reply, Antti! Unfortunately, the pictures are just showing up as little boxes that say "spacer.png." Ben
  17. Hi Antti, What accuracy issues does the kit have? I know the cockpit needs work, the kit lacks intakes, the main gear struts need additional details, and the fuselage panel lines seem to be a mix of FG.1 and FGR.2. Also, Hypersonic makes accurate replacement stabilators for Hasegawa F-4s. He also sells a very nice resin and photo etched canopy detail set that I think is a must-have for any Hasegawa, Academy, or Z-M F-4 kit. Ben
  18. Hi Dennis, The gear wells and the speed brake well on the F-100 were a darkish interior green, approximately FS 34092. Flat Euro 1 Dark Green from your favorite paint manufacturer will work. The insides of the gear doors and speed brake were natural metal or aluminum lacquer. Same with the gear struts. The Voodoo's gear wells were the same green as the F-100, but the door interiors were Insignia Red. The interior of the speed brakes and the wells were also red. HTH. Ben
  19. The only model of an S2/S3 Turbo I've ever seen during years of searching was a sad-looking vacuformed slot car body. Maybe we should lobby that guy on Shapeways to do a Turbo transkit, since he's already partway there with the S3 parts. Ben
  20. Here's one from Airliners.net: Link because no hotlinking And another from a site that doesn't allow hotlinking Just a guess, but I would think carrier-based Phantoms were a little cleaner than shore-based jets because they had to be washed often for corrosion control. Ben
  21. I use cheap wooden plaques from the craft store and acrylic rod from Amazon. If the fuselage is hollow, I add a section of brass tube to accept the rod. Paint or stain the base, drill a hole in it for the rod, and cut the rod to whatever length you need to get the height you want. I use different lengths of rod so I can get several levels of “altitude” to squeeze more models into my limited display space. I use a couple of different diameters of rod, but I can’t recall what they are. I’ll check this afternoon and update my post. Ben
  22. Flown: Some kind of glider, can't recall the type Hang gliders Quicksilver MX ultralight (still questioning that choice 40 years later) Lots of different single engine Cessna, Piper, and Beechcraft types NAVION Baron 55 and 58 Cessna 310, 402, 441 Beech 18 DC-3 Beech Starship All of the King Air versions from the C90 to the 300, except the F90 Mitsubishi Diamond Beechjet Dash-8 CRJ 737 Ridden in: B-17 A320 Fokker 28 & 100 707, 717, 727, 737, 747, 757 (best jump seat ride ever!), and 777 DC-8, DC-9, MD-80 Shorts 360 Metroliner III Jetstream ERJ-145 & 170 Ben
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