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Everything posted by ArnoldAmbrose

  1. Um, he and BBS have already done the Hogwarts Express. But I agree that he's got his momentum up. I've heard a similar method described on how to carve a statue - start with a block of stone or marble and chip away all those bits that aren't a statue! But I agree with the premise, that complex bits are simply a collection of simple bits. She's coming along well, Steve. Regards, Jeff.
  2. Gidday again, the foam keeps the model in place, and at the same time absorbs some of the shock. As your model is much larger just add thicker layers of foam. I've not had any damage during transport, but admittedly I've no delicate PE to worry about. Best of luck, it would be a shame for your Bizzies to miss out on their debuts. Regards, Jeff.
  3. Gidday Guy, I made some boxes for transporting my model ships but they're a bit smaller than yours. I've made half a dozen different sizes, with heavy wood bases for stability and sides high enough to protect the masts. Foam inside stops them bouncing around, and I reach in from both ends to insert or extract the model. Admittedly these models are 1/600 scale Airfix builds but the transport boxes work a treat for me - no damage at all since I've done them. HTH. Regards, Jeff.
  4. Gidday Thekz, I enjoy making some parts also. Mine aren't as good as AM stuff, but it's what I enjoy doing. Your model of HMS Berwick is coming along very well. I think when the ship finally reaches port the crew are going to be rather busy with chipping hammers and paint pots - all that rust! Regards, Jeff.
  5. Gidday Mike, I'm afraid I can't help you as yet although I'd like to be able to. I wish to do a conversion of an Airfix Belfast in 1/600 into HMS Sheffield one day and am on the lookout for plans of the ship too. At the smaller size I probably wouldn't need them as detailed as you but If I find something I'll let you know. Sorry I can't be of any more help just now. Regards, Jeff.
  6. Gidday, I've no idea what lighting would be used in a carrier in wartime, but as this ship was never on active duty and the Germans never had a carrier on active duty I think a little poetic licence is acceptable. It would be a shame to make the hangar decks 'busy' if no-one could see anything inside. My thoughts, anyway. Regards, Jeff.
  7. Gidday All, I've wrapped and glued the sides around the stern of HMS Onslow. Due to the damage to the stbd side at the stern I couldn't get a piece long enough to reach the centre of the stern so the port side had to wrap around far enough to reach it. Hence the join is off centre and at present doesn't look the best. Hopefully with a bit of cleaning up it'll look better. I'll only do a token clean-up at present, until I get the lower hull attached. Which won't be tonight as it's not far off midnight here. So good night All, stay safe and regards, Jeff.
  8. Gidday again, I've got a few 1/350 kits but not made any yet. I got them mainly because I got good deals on them. Two are ICM German battleships of WW1, Konig and Kronprinz. Looking at the kits they don't seam too complex, no PE etc. I might tackle one next year. Other 1/350 modelers could probably give you better advice in this scale. Sorry but that's about all I can help you with. Regards, Jeff.
  9. Gidday Andy, yours is a rather difficult question, without knowing your skill level etc. I personally started full-on ship modeling about 25 years ago with 1/600 scale Airfix kits, and have stayed with them. I like the 1/600 scale but they're almost impossible to get now, mainly out of production as far as I know. The nearest would be 1/700 but you said not too small. I found 1/700 a bit fiddly myself until I got a bit used to the scale. 1/350 obviously bigger, and more expensive. Most modelers here that build in that scale seem to use aftermarket extensively, and do superb models with it, but you said OOB. Also I've only built in styrene injection molded, I've never done anything in resin. To get back to your question, I'd look at something simple as a starter, maybe a destroyer in 1/700, and see how you go from there. But that's just me. Others may have alternative ideas and advice. HTH. Regards, Jeff.
  10. Gidday, seriously, it wasn't that difficult. The hardest part was getting the two waterlines in the right place. The plastic cut easily, and the further along I got the blade had to be laid along the hull, which in itself assisted in a straight cut. Gluing the two halves back together, well, that might be fun. And Guy, while you're behind the sofa have a good look around. I think carpet monsters have been known to hide their left-overs there. You might be surprised what you find. Thanks for your interest and comments. Regards, Jeff.
  11. Gidday, that's a very interesting method you have used. And I see that you have all the necessities on hand - coffee! I am looking forward to seeing more progress. Regards, Jeff.
  12. Gidday, no bulk to act as a heat sink, I guess. This model has turned out very well. Definitely the PE. And don't knock your weathering, I think it's an enhancement to the model. Regards, Jeff.
  13. Gidday All, the next task for my conversion to HMS Onslow was to reduce the depth of the hull, which means I have to waterline the hull - twice. Below is a photo of that happening. You can see the two waterlines. Two? The upper wl is measured down from the deck, ie the freeboard. The lower wl is measured up from the keel ie the draught. The bit in the middle is the error in hull depth. I've said in previous posts that I think it's about 4mm, for a Tribal. But as HMS Onslow is a smaller ship that surplus depth is about 5mm. I did both cuts simultaneously, while the hull was at its most rigid. And actually it was easier than I thought it would be. Drawing the two lines was a bit awkward, I needed three hands. Mrs AA kindly loaned me one of hers. You'll notice that I stuck masking tape to the hull. I thought it would mark and show the pencil lines more easily. And here are the three hull halves. (Yeah, I know, a contradiction in terms ). The next job (after cleaning these up a little) will be to form the stern of the upper hull. I plan to do that by wrapping the hull sides around the quarterdeck. Once that is done I plan to try to rejoin the upper and lower hulls. And the middle bit? Anyone want 1/4 of a 1/600 scale Tribal hull? Maybe I could put a deck on it, add a round turret and call it a 1940s version of the USS Monitor. A bit late (nearly 80 years) for the Hampton Roads battle though. Well, that's it for now. Thank you for your interest. Stay safe, and regards to all, Jeff.
  14. Gidday Haneto, I think the definitions of cruiser and destroyer have become a little blurred in modern ships such as this. It was interesting comparing this model to that of the IJN Yukikaze, herself a large destroyer in her day. This looks a rather powerful warship, and as usual you've done an excellent model of her. Regards, Jeff.
  15. Gidday, it's rather challenging as a first language also, that's why I speak Orstraylian. That's excellent scratch building on your model. Very well done. Regards, Jeff.
  16. Gidday Sam, do you really need to. They look quite sharp to me, I'd be happy with them as they are. Your choice, of course. Z43 makes quite a life boat. All set for rapid launch I see, shoot her straight out the end of the hangar. You might have trouble launching Dreadnought or the other Graf, though. That's quite a collection you've got in the creche. Good luck with this. Regards, Jeff.
  17. Gidday Guenther, ALL of us were beginners at some point. In fact, I've been a beginner for nearly 50 years now. And I'm still not game to try wood decks, PE and rigging. Your build of Emden should be interesting. I've only done one WW1 ship (Airfix's HMS Iron Duke in 1/600) and would like to do more sometime. Looking forward to seeing yours come together. Regards, Jeff.
  18. Gidday Tom, yeah, there's an option. I think that would be quite frightening in the Arctic, or anywhere I guess with weather that wild. Regards, Jeff.
  19. Gidday, that could well be. Like me we're both showing our age. I've redone HMS Onslow's bow. Onslow is the lower hull. The bow is not perfect but a bit closer to the real thing than the original (the upper hull). I've managed to gain a little more sheer but not quite as much as I hoped. Also the bow has now lost a little bit of it's flair, but I think I'll quit while I'm ahead. I'm a bit worried that the more I fiddle with it the more chance I have of stuffing it up. The lower portion of the cut-water is the wrong shape but I'll be water-lining this next so that won't be a problem. Then after water-lining the hull I'll do the stern. This is a photo taken earlier while fitting the main deck. It shows how much I have to shorten the hull. You can probably see the damaged stern, melted on one hull half (stbd). Once I've waterlined this I plan to wrap the sides around the deck at the stern. I'm a bit loath to apply heat to the sides in case it warps the deck so if that doesn't work I'll resort to plan 'B' - remove the sides completely from the point where you see the tape and form a new stern. Failing that, well, er, I don't have a plan 'C'. Fingers crossed. Stay safe, and Regards, Jeff.
  20. Gidday, further to my post above I have two other contenders, ICM's 1/350 scale kits of the WW1 German battleships Konig and Kronprinz. A few years ago at a model show here (WASMEx) I saw four of them marked at "50% off marked price". The marked price was $58.00 Aus, which was in itself a bargain. So I bought one for $29.00 Aus. I've seen them in the shops here for between $90 and $120. So I think that $29 qualifies as a bargain. The following year we were again at the show (it's an annual event, barring Covid) and my son sent me a text to the effect that "The others are still here, same deal". He then timed me. I made it inside 20 seconds! If the GB goes ahead I think I'll do one of those rather than the IJN cruisers, as they're a bit simpler. So please put me down as a participant. Thanks. Regards, Jeff.
  21. Gidday All, thank you for your interest. Maurice, I've not heard the expression 'plank owner' before so I looked it up. And the 'naughty nurse' sounds interesting, I can understand him not elaborating or talking about it much. I believe TB was a bit of a problem for RN ship's crews in that part of the world. Alistair Maclean refers to it in his book 'HMS Ulysses'. Although a fictitious story he served on the cruiser HMS Royalist in the Arctic for a while, and a number of incidents in the book are based on fact. The book "73 North" sounds interesting but I don't think postage would be free to my part of the world. Pity. And yeah, I think it's the same Airfix 'Cossack' kit of our youth (back in the Dark Ages). As kids my brothers and I used this model as HMS Ulysses in our games. Regards, Jeff.
  22. Gidday, that looks quite a project. Regards, Jeff.
  23. Gidday, it happens to me quite a bit. I find in mildly annoying but no big deal. It doesn't lessen my enjoyment of the site, though. Regards, Jeff.
  24. Gidday Martian, I would have thought adding rivets would have a good claim to tedium. But either way, adding rivets in that quantity to prehistoric subs or wires to prehistoric aircraft shows your skill and dedication. It's out of my league. Keep up the good work. Regards, Admiring of Earth (Jeff).
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