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Robbyrockett's Achievements

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  1. V2's have their notches placed into an indentation or slot that goes around the back end of the needle
  2. I realized today those numbers were from regrinds. I've been measuring fresh sets and getting preliminary measures of 6deg 12deg on the iwata and 5deg on the olympos, still have to do some setup to take fully accurate measures but .....same concept nonetheless. The angle change basically cuts off the last couple mm of skinniest needle.
  3. Yes, basically. The nozzle bore has mainly to do with minimum paint volume at opening. So it contributes to detail, once you put in the human factor. I'm kind of summarizing but for just fine lines; The main big factors are the air gap size, the angle on the nozzle exterior, the nozzle wall thickness at the tip and how far the angle is carried to the center on the needle. I phrase the needle thing that way because they basically all use the same main angle. They are just stubbed off at different lengths. Compare an olympos micron to an iwata micron or gsi 770; On the olympos it has a thicker nozzle wall, larger air gap, but carries the 6.5-7deg needle taper all the way to a very sharp point. The Iwata/GSI version the needle is 6.5-7 deg but stops short and changes to 16deg for about 1mm and then it's flat for about .1mm diameter across the tip. The Iwata version gave up some fine line ability for a stumpier, less delicate needle. Then mostly made up for it by tightening the air gap and thinning the nozzle wall. Those changes make it do it's lines a little darker though, not as soft as the olympos.
  4. The hand matched head thing is mostly a marketing leftover from olympos. Back in the day when tolerances weren't so tight. Even then it had more to do with matching an air cap to a base. Now all it really means is that they do a test spray to ensure they did in fact come out centered. I've known a lot of people to buy or swap individual parts without any change in performance whatsoever. But if you're real concerned just buy a head assembly and needle from a gsi 770 and for a whole $85 and be done with it. Apart from the hex shape at rear and the satin finish , it is absolutely identical. Or just do the 770 in the first place and save up front. Incidentally, the .18 iwata or gsi (again identical) is in reality a larger nozzle than the .23 and likely better with modeling paints ....go figure. .23' actual nozzle bore is .27ish mm diameter .18 actual nozzle bore is .355 ish mm diameter.
  5. Yeah I kinda figured. You'd have to be pretty serious about an eclipse to spend a third of it's cost just making it work for you. Just figured I'd throw that out there. You might try mocking up something like the badger krome has on it's air valve, just to see if the lack of ridge ahead of the air valve is the issue. Hot glue is good for just mocking up little body mods. If it works you'd have to get creative about making something more permanent but... Or eh, trade it for a c+
  6. I know, and work with someone who makes custom triggers. In fact he owns the patent on non-ambidextrous triggers. They are mostly one-offs, made on manually operated mill and lathe and run about $45 USD but you can ask for any height you'd like and they are angled for right or left handed use. If you're interested in one let me know , I'll post up (if allowed) the info to contact him. Otherwise I guess PM me. Although honestly my guess is that you're feeling either the lack of air channel in front of the valve or possibly feeling the .5mm (I believe) larger body diameter.
  7. It actually helps to keep the nozzle from damage. Its not nearly as stiff as a standard needle. In the testing so far dropping the brush of course still bends the needle but only a mild curve rather than the 90 deg angle a standard needle gets. So I can only guess that the combination of not transferring the sudden impact so suddenly plus having less of the deformation that makes a bent rod become wider around the bend site is basically saving all the nozzles tested.
  8. Save yourself a bunch of cash and get a gsi ps770 It's a cm-c+ with a cm-b head and needle. Zero difference in quality between it and a cm. In fact the only differences are cosmetic. Many use the nozzle,needle and other parts as replacements for their cm's. I don't mean it's similar, I mean it's literally the same. Unless your opposed to C size cups or a Mac valve there really is no reason to spend for the CM. Sotars do in fact compete fine line wise, though there are some minor points of quality that are not as high as the Japanese brushes if your super picky.
  9. About the same price now ....at least in the US
  10. Well, I can heartily rcommend the Mr hobby ps 290 if you ever were looking for a fan brush
  11. The bd180 is IMO the only cheapo worth messing with. Careful tuning can make it a fairly decent performer. The bd130 is pretty terrible.
  12. Anything you could use something with about a 50-60mm fan pattern to lay down a base color. Maybe something from roughly 1/10 scale cars on up to 1/4 scale if you were really pushing it.
  13. Actually they are generally the same main angle, just some are carried further into the depth of the needle before rounding out the tip so to speak. They appear to be different because of shaft size or the depth the main angle is carried to , but when measured are in fact the same main angle. The depth variance accounts for different profiles and nozzle sizes. Also there are 4 angles in the runners of each of the tool so essentially you are doing a 4 way grind to match your particular needles profile then polishing it out.... instructions for different profiles are included. I can tell you I've not ever heard anyone have anything but praise for them. The results are not perfect, but usually at least as good as factory standard needles when carried out correctly. Personally, no factory needle performs well enough for me without a good polishing, same goes for many artists. Sharpenair gets me a needle that will do all but the last 5percent of finest details I need from a micron.
  14. Btw it might be cheaper than you think. https://airbrushes.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=sharpenair&osCsid=arkm2806q27d8rjrvmiltccdi1&x=0&y=0
  15. Sharpenair is a great product. For artists who do a lot of painting with no needle protection it's pretty much guaranteed to pay for itself. Also anyone making money from their painting...as even a trip to the local supplier could cost way more time wise than a needle is worth. Part of what I wanted to accomplish with this needle was being able to use such a device, should it ever need repair.since the other high end needle can't be repaired properly because it's only case hardened. The sharpenair works very well for all but the most high performance $500-$1500 airbrushes designed for the absolute utmost in detail performance. It isn't absolutely perfect but it does do a close second of a job. I have nothing to do with the sharpenair but I can say it's a really great product.
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