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KelT

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About KelT

  • Rank
    New Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tasmania, Australia
  • Interests
    Fleet Air Arm aircraft 1939-1945.

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137 profile views
  1. The rigging looks great, your troubles are not doing anything to ease my own concerns but your eventual success does give me hope. I shall have to get back to my build sometime soon, I seem to have taken a little unplanned break. You're pretty close to an RFI thread by the looks of things, I'm looking forward to seeing her complete.
  2. Looking good. I hope I don't have to buy one of those things to get the PE off.
  3. Great work. I just finished one of these myself (it's the Airfix Club Specialist right?) and even for a beginner the kit was a joy to put together; apart from the undercarriage, as you say, although mine is holding out so far with lots of glue and hope. I agree the cannons look much nicer, did you replace the exhausts too because that's an incredible job you've done of hollowing them out if you did it yourself.
  4. KelT

    1/32 Corsair F4U-1D

    Odd isn't it because without the resin kit sitting there you'd say there was a lot of detail in the actual kit. Thanks for the comparative photo I like to use these examples from the extras for ideas of what to scratch and add myself. If I wasn't on such a budget I'd probably buy the extras but for now while I still have so many paints and tools to acquire I have to make do with imagination and household goods. Looking forward to seeing it painted up.
  5. Hey good to see you back Alan. That rust and gun residue is very effective, good work.
  6. A great story. I was never fortunate enough to have models in my childhood and reading your story makes me a little envious. Nicely written and nicely built.
  7. @Ex-FAAWAFU That's very interesting. I knew nothing about Swordfish, the FAA or the men who were part of it prior to starting this model so my knowledge is limited to what I can find on the net. With every piece of information I discover my respect for those men grows and studying a small group in particular, such as the crew of LS247, makes it very real and somehow personal for me. I read about the lives and see the faces of men such as John Stretton who never made it into any painting or onto the pages of books but were no less brave than those that did and it humbles me. I feel both sad and honoured to learn about people like J. Stretton who would otherwise have gone unnoticed and, with the passing of Cliff Bisset, forgotten. In his short life he features in several photographs, the one above and the series on the crash, and yet it is the photographs themselves that have garnered the attention not the men in them. At the same time it is those same photographs that have preserved their memory for those like myself who are prepared to look a little deeper. Yet there are many others who did not stand in front of the camera but who were no less courageous and just as deserving of remembrance, until I began this modelling a short time ago I was one who remained shamefully oblivious. The war does not interest me, nor the aircraft or armour that fought in it, but coming into contact with the lives of the men who lived in those times somehow makes me more appreciative of my own life and gives me cause to look at those around me, both elder and younger, with a little more respect. Thank you for sharing some of your Dad's memories and experiences.
  8. Got some more fiddly stuff done. Modifications made to kit: Filed out the bracket which holds the Vickers, drilled through and inserted a cut-down pin. The gun now rocks back and forth, couldn't figure out how to make it rotate though, not without fabricating a whole new bracket. Bored out the barrel of the Vickers. Removed the ejected cartridge capture bag as it looked like one of your grandad's old socks. Left the magazine off the Vickers as it is unlikely to have been left loaded while the aircraft is unmanned. Made a new tarp above the radio out of rolled up masking tape as the original looked a little blobby. Trumpeter again don't include any decals for the instruments in the observers pit or the pilots, again I toyed with printing some but ended up hand painting them instead. Removed the lump of plastic that was supposed to represent the seat belt guide bar on the bulkhead above the pilot seat. Replaced with some 15amp fuse wire and passed my seatbelts through it as they should go. Used the rest of the pin from the gun mount to make a T-bar for the fuel valve (that was the most fiddly part by far, gluing two pieces of 1mm steel pin together) and some extra knobs and buttons. Added a foil cutout around the thrust levers to give them a little more depth. Completed cabling on port side, although I still need to add some piping for the rudder controls. To be honest it felt like I did a lot more but these tiny bits take some time, I have been very thankful for my magnifying lamp that's for sure. Now a little more on LS247: There were three crew members aboard when she went over the side, the pilot (Sub Lt. Clifford Norman Smyth Bisset), the observer (Sub Lt. John Victor Stretton) and a TAG whom I have been unable to identify. John Stretton, shown below writing at his desk a few days before the accident, unfortunately lost his life in the crash. John - son of William and Annie Stretton {Watkinson}, of Creswell, Derbyshire - was 21 and only recently qualified as an observer, in fact this posting onto the Tracker a mere two months prior to the accident was his first active posting. Sub Lieutenant Stretton wasn't killed by the impact of the aircraft hitting the water but he was injured by it, his injuries proved to be too much as he struggled to stay afloat while awaiting rescue. Unfortunate indeed but even more so than normal as we will see in further posts. John Stretton writing at his desk aboard HMS Tracker. Also in the photo are Sub-Lts Duncan and Richardson. For now though you might be interested to take another look at the last photo of LS247 I posted. The Swordfish was fitted with an immersion switch in the engine compartment of the nose, upon sustained contact with water it was designed to automatically inflate the aircraft's liferaft. As you can clearly see from the image, with the nose well immersed in the cold Atlantic, this didn't happen. John Stretton is remembered on the FAA war memorial at Lee-on-Solent on panel number 4.
  9. That looks really good, the cotton bud made a huge difference, although I didn't see the "Before:" at first and I sat thinking it looked just like it did last time until I scrolled down :)
  10. KelT

    Eduard 1/48 Spitfire HF VIII

    I agree I'm also not a fan of the extended wingtips but you've made them look amazing. A beautiful looking job, great work.
  11. Is that a clever pun? I've had no problem with the paint so far and I've given up worrying. Time will tell I guess. I'm just glad I found a way to work with the Vallejo as I really like the way they lay down and as you mentioned the lack of fumes is a big bonus. I did read that the Revel Aqua range were pretty good too but we don't get those in this dark corner of the world. For brush painting though I can't recommend enough watching Plastix's video, it's like watching someone paint, but it's worth watching all the way through, I learned so much from it. The only mistakes I made outside of what I learnt from Plastix were the ones where I didn't follow his advice due to lack of confidence in my own ability, I soon discovered that taking the leap and just giving it a go his way actually worked. No primer, no masking (for most of the job), thin layers and a confident hand. Of course I have a long way to go but Plastix's advice shortened the journey. Oh I should mention though that the Future as a thinner was my own idea, not from Plastix, so if you do try it and it doesn't work then I'm the one to direct the law suit at
  12. Yes Future is the clear polish, I believe it's Pledge Wax or something like that in the UK, it's actually something completely different down here. It's basically an acrylic polish and I found it helps give the Vallejo paint a little more resilience as I had problems with it scratching off very easily with my first attempts. My last model had something like twenty one coats of paint in the end, not all at once of course I was removing them between trials. Using the oven cleaner took off the Tamiya primer too so my last paint job was effectively without any primer and I had no problems whatsoever but I was thinning with Future rather than water. I was fortunate enough to get a lot of help and advice from Plastix who is also a brush painter and does incredible work, he also said that he doesn't use primer although he is using Humbrol water based acrylics for the most part.
  13. I too prefer Vallejo (Model Colour) now that I have the hang of them. The first time I used them it was over Tamiya Fine White Primer and the paint just wouldn't adhere to the surface. After some experimenting I now thin them using Future and avoid using any kind of primer, they work exceptionally well but it is better to thin the paint and build up the layers. I could imagine that being quite tedious with your mottled pattern though. I am looking forward to seeing your progress with reducing the intensity of the green.
  14. Oh I've done much, much worse with paints as a fellow amateur believe me. I possibly did better mottling than this as well at one point except it wasn't supposed to be mottled. At the time it was a cause for frustration and disappointment, quickly I came to appreciate the sheer amount of learning I derived from my errors, one kit provided more education than a dozen well done ones might. Now I'm not saying that your work is anything near that level of error but I am saying that since it's your first then you shouldn't place too much pressure on yourself and just enjoy the learning experience. I found during my own tribulations that with a little oven cleaner you can go right back to the plastic as though you'd never even touched the model. You of course don't need to do that but my point is that nothing is irreversible (well almost nothing, leaving it too close to a fire might be a challenge to recover) it all depends on how far back you want to go. Which paints did you use? A little Tamiya thinners or something like on a cotton bud would probably allow you to remove light coats, just don't press too hard or it goes through everything quickly. The hardest thing to overcome is that feeling of "just wanting to get it over with". To me is was suggested I start something else and return to it but I didn't have anything else. In the end what worked was to give up on my expectations and simply treat the kit as something to learn as much as I could from regardless of the outcome. The final result was not too bad at all to be honest but by that point it was an unexpected benefit.
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