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About KelT

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    Tasmania, Australia
  • Interests
    Glue n Goo.

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  1. Just a quick note that may help others. I have spent the morning masking up the main body, I am not familiar with airbrushing but it seems to me that in using a rattle can primer along with the transparent fuselage I need to make the aircraft virtually airtight as even a little mist entering within could ruin my interior/transparency. There are quite a few little holes most of which I plugged with a dob of bluetack but there are some which were more difficult and could have been avoided. The holes shown above seem to provide absolutely no purpose apart f
  2. Made some progress, little bits that seem to take me a long time but I enjoy them so WTH. Putting the two halves together there are a few little points I learned which may be helpful to others. I wouldn't have installed the rear gun in hindsight. It folds back pretty well out of the way as can be seen in the second image but it would be so easy to fit at the end there is no point risking damage. I have recently seen elsewhere someone who removed the barrel of the forward gun so that it might be attached after painting. This seems like an excellent idea and if i
  3. I managed to get the cowl and exhaust manifold painted, quite possibly a simple achievement for many of you long term modellers out there but difficult and traumatic for me I can assure you. Painting those metallic paints and white is no easy matter for me. For the manifold I used Vallejo: 70.996 Gold/70.864 Natural Steel/70.861 Glossy Black/70.950 Black/76.507 Model wash rust. (the gold, steel and wash formed my base adding small amounts of black as I build the layers) For the cowl I used Vallejo: 70.951 white (it took me a long time to build up very thin layers) I paint
  4. @dave Right, that makes sense. I just checked the actual kit and there do seem to be some mounts on the outside of the fuselage for two compasses, hard to spot on the transparent half I am using: Looking at the images posted by both Dave and Chris there is further evidence that the first image was not actually reversed since the compass mounts on port and starboard are in fact different with the port ones being encompassed by the fuselage while the starboard ones are external. Interesting. I wonder if that was simply so you didn't rip the crotch out of your t
  5. Thanks for that, I have that one too but I never even noticed the compass when I was looking through my images for reference since it appears to be mounted on the wrong side of the aircraft but the image is actually flipped horizontally. It's a really good shot for showing/demonstrating the two cylinders though, especially when you flip it to it's original orientation, it seems to make it easier to look at. Thank you.
  6. Thanks dogsbody I have added Mr. Surfacer 1000 to my next shopping list, I guess they putty will be good for bigger jobs. The needle applicator is a great idea too. Today was a good day, I finally resolved my IP mounting issue. I will post how here in case it helps someone else with the same problem. First I went with the attaching the IP to the gun magazine as it seemed the most simple. I attached the magazine to the gun angling it down as much as possible, I then drilled a small hole in the end of the magazine on the side facing the IP and inserted a length of
  7. @dogsbody We seem to be in some kind of ping pong misunderstanding here and it's most likely my fault. I originally thought, using the references I was, that the ring might have been a gasket and I figured it'd be a good idea to make one myself not for accuracy but to make painting the ring easier. After your first response with the heat distribution diagram I could see that the actual aircraft had no gasket and I agreed with your information. I have neither the experience, knowledge or desire to argue with you and was grateful for the information you posted as it helped me understand the mani
  8. Thanks Ex-FAAWAFU it is nice to guess correctly occasionally, since I cannot tell if LS247 had them fitted or not I shall add them to my model as it's a little more detail so why not. @bigbadbadge The block is my favourite option as it will provide stability and if I can position the IP with bluetak and then run in some extra thin it would in theory be fairly simple apart from one aspect which has so far put me off the idea. To add to the positioning complexity the oil tank itself is not a right angle but rather slopes backwards away from the IP as can be seen in the second photo a
  9. Thanks dogsbody, turns out I have that one too but my copy isn't as clear and the magazine is too flared out. I also found this one this morning: It looks like the far right, lower instruments are removed when the gun is fitted. I am still struggling with how to mount my instrument panel it's such a fiddly piece so unlike the rest of the model. I took some photos for myself to see if they might help me think of something. Turns out there is quite a lot of play in the actual gun fitting pin and the magazine can be angled down a little more than I thought previously, so
  10. Another slow update, not entirely my fault this time though, well perhaps it was. Turns out my cockpit green lid had a crack in it and two years was a little too long for the paint inside to survive so I had to order more and what with COVID and Christmas effecting the post it'd have been quicker to cycle to Japan and fetch it myself. I have a bunch of other excuses too but I won't burden you with those. I used Dave's method for the decals and it was 75% successful and likely would have been 100% if not for my subsequent manhandling. You see I encountered a small problem with the T
  11. Thank you Dave that really helps I shall give it a go.
  12. I could use a little help please... The kit comes with a transparent part for the instrument panel and four small decals which make up the instruments. My first instinct was to apply liquid mask to the clock faces on the front of the panel, paint the rest of the part, stick the decal to the rear and then remove the mask revealing the clocks. I remember my error with my last model though, decals won't stick face down. It would be really nice if Trumpeter had provided some reverse decals to accompany the transparent part in fact since the rear of the panel is flat a single reverse de
  13. I managed to get the engine painted and assembled after some difficulties getting used to my paints once again. I much prefer the Vallejo personally I find it brushes much more easily and without the constant thinning maintenance but some colours I only have in Tamiya so needs must. I tried using 15 Amp fuse wire for the spark plug cables, the cylinder end was simple I just drilled a hole either side and threaded the wire through but the other end was proving difficult since I had sanded the collar of D21 down for the induction pipes and there reall
  14. Don't you just hate it when someone says something so logical that all you can think is "now why didn't I consider that?". Thanks MeneMene that does make sense. I was misled by two things, firstly the fact that the colour image above is taken from the book "How to Build Tamiyas Fairey Swordfish" by Geoff Coughlin. The accompanying text is as follows: The second thing was that I was convinced I saw at least one old B&W image with the ring but I cannot find it again so it was probably weariness. I can't blame Geoff or his book for the misleading informati
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