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KelT

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About KelT

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tasmania, Australia
  • Interests
    Glue n Goo.

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  1. Thanks Mumbly. I may yet have to resort to the airbrush, I understand I'm trying to get the best job with the second best tool for the purpose but I'd still like to try with the brush/pen for now. If my Moltow ink were in a bottle I might gave the airbrush a go but I don't fancy pulling my new pen apart to try and get a couple of drops of ink out. I tried experimenting with kitchen foil and the results were pretty amazing actually, I didn't use any glue just rubbed it down over the part and then polished with metal polish, it was very impressive apart from the small size of t
  2. Thanks for the info Stef N. I put in a large order just two nights ago and I looked at the Vallejo Metal Colour but in the end it was just another one of many options so I decided to stick with my liquid chrome pen for now, I wish I had posted here first but perhaps next time. I have begun a set of tests with the chrome pen since it's use so far hasn't proved very appealing. In fact in the images above on the upright footpeg the upper surface was touched up with it. I've watched a lot of videos on using the pen but the only good ones with actual tests are where it was airbrushed on, all t
  3. I got a little bit more done, actually it felt like a lot until I came to update this thread then it seems trivial. I removed the Yamaha insignia from the tank and assembled it, the fit was not great and there were two imperfections (image #2) in the plastic where the locating pins on the inside of the tank were molded (I used Mr Surfacer 1k). In the absence of any Tamiya polishing compound I used that other really well known brand; Colgate Total 12 Hr protection with minty stripe. I think the stripe really helped as the results were quite pleasing. I drill
  4. Would you look at that! I have waited for months but the day after I posted the above and we get Tamiya X-2 in Australia! Unfortunately they don't have the model kit I was hoping to buy along with it to reduce postage, so I may wait a little longer and continue with my Virago but it looks like the drought may finally be over.
  5. This thread comes with a warning or two: I'm not the fastest of modellers so you'll need patience; Secondly I am still very new to all this and trying to climb the learning cliff so be forgiving, please. This is my first bike build. I used to own one of these so I am excited to give it a go. Mine was the XV1100 with a respray in pearlescent black, all the markings were removed apart from those etched into the actual casings and a set of Harley pipes rather than the overly chunky standard ones. The pipes were a mistake since when I cranked it over to the rig
  6. Well I haven't forgotten about this build for another two years but I have run into a series of complications beyond my control. The first: after the difficulty I had hand painting the white and metallic on the small cowl area I was a little terrified of doing the much larger fuselage and wings so I caved in... I bought the cheapest airbrush I could find on Amazon. I had a practice with it and broke it during cleaning, fixed it, broke it again, fixed it again and repeated the process once more. I think I know how it works now and it does seem to be going well. Of course I had to wa
  7. Just a quick note that may help others. I have spent the morning masking up the main body, I am not familiar with airbrushing but it seems to me that in using a rattle can primer along with the transparent fuselage I need to make the aircraft virtually airtight as even a little mist entering within could ruin my interior/transparency. There are quite a few little holes most of which I plugged with a dob of bluetack but there are some which were more difficult and could have been avoided. The holes shown above seem to provide absolutely no purpose apart f
  8. Made some progress, little bits that seem to take me a long time but I enjoy them so WTH. Putting the two halves together there are a few little points I learned which may be helpful to others. I wouldn't have installed the rear gun in hindsight. It folds back pretty well out of the way as can be seen in the second image but it would be so easy to fit at the end there is no point risking damage. I have recently seen elsewhere someone who removed the barrel of the forward gun so that it might be attached after painting. This seems like an excellent idea and if i
  9. I managed to get the cowl and exhaust manifold painted, quite possibly a simple achievement for many of you long term modellers out there but difficult and traumatic for me I can assure you. Painting those metallic paints and white is no easy matter for me. For the manifold I used Vallejo: 70.996 Gold/70.864 Natural Steel/70.861 Glossy Black/70.950 Black/76.507 Model wash rust. (the gold, steel and wash formed my base adding small amounts of black as I build the layers) For the cowl I used Vallejo: 70.951 white (it took me a long time to build up very thin layers) I paint
  10. @dave Right, that makes sense. I just checked the actual kit and there do seem to be some mounts on the outside of the fuselage for two compasses, hard to spot on the transparent half I am using: Looking at the images posted by both Dave and Chris there is further evidence that the first image was not actually reversed since the compass mounts on port and starboard are in fact different with the port ones being encompassed by the fuselage while the starboard ones are external. Interesting. I wonder if that was simply so you didn't rip the crotch out of your t
  11. Thanks for that, I have that one too but I never even noticed the compass when I was looking through my images for reference since it appears to be mounted on the wrong side of the aircraft but the image is actually flipped horizontally. It's a really good shot for showing/demonstrating the two cylinders though, especially when you flip it to it's original orientation, it seems to make it easier to look at. Thank you.
  12. Thanks dogsbody I have added Mr. Surfacer 1000 to my next shopping list, I guess they putty will be good for bigger jobs. The needle applicator is a great idea too. Today was a good day, I finally resolved my IP mounting issue. I will post how here in case it helps someone else with the same problem. First I went with the attaching the IP to the gun magazine as it seemed the most simple. I attached the magazine to the gun angling it down as much as possible, I then drilled a small hole in the end of the magazine on the side facing the IP and inserted a length of
  13. @dogsbody We seem to be in some kind of ping pong misunderstanding here and it's most likely my fault. I originally thought, using the references I was, that the ring might have been a gasket and I figured it'd be a good idea to make one myself not for accuracy but to make painting the ring easier. After your first response with the heat distribution diagram I could see that the actual aircraft had no gasket and I agreed with your information. I have neither the experience, knowledge or desire to argue with you and was grateful for the information you posted as it helped me understand the mani
  14. Thanks Ex-FAAWAFU it is nice to guess correctly occasionally, since I cannot tell if LS247 had them fitted or not I shall add them to my model as it's a little more detail so why not. @bigbadbadge The block is my favourite option as it will provide stability and if I can position the IP with bluetak and then run in some extra thin it would in theory be fairly simple apart from one aspect which has so far put me off the idea. To add to the positioning complexity the oil tank itself is not a right angle but rather slopes backwards away from the IP as can be seen in the second photo a
  15. Thanks dogsbody, turns out I have that one too but my copy isn't as clear and the magazine is too flared out. I also found this one this morning: It looks like the far right, lower instruments are removed when the gun is fitted. I am still struggling with how to mount my instrument panel it's such a fiddly piece so unlike the rest of the model. I took some photos for myself to see if they might help me think of something. Turns out there is quite a lot of play in the actual gun fitting pin and the magazine can be angled down a little more than I thought previously, so
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