nick

BTW The librarian is my second favourite character after Gaspode the wonder dog. wossname. Nick

OK, It's because it's a projected line then in that case, overdraw it with a spline and it should work if that's what you want to do.

It's not continuous, the black dot 2/3 along its length tells you this. It's bad practice, but if you draw a spline over the top of your purple line as one contiguous length, you can then sweep/use that as a rail. It's also still too noisy, just delete the spurious 'panels' then the intersection itself is what you probably what you want to fillet when its clean. If you really do want that shape, just draw a separate third body and position it where you want and join. everything, then maybe fillet that again if necssary.

I haven't asked them, no. I have snaffled a load of their photos off facebook though! I might drop tem a line as you suggest.

I'm wondering about that. I've just drawn it that way and come across this shot. This is a repro car I'm pretty sure, but it looks straight here?

That last one looks great to me. So you’ve cracked it then by the looks of it? Excellent. Are going for an ‘inner tube’ of some kind or are they stiff enough with the new thicker walls? to really throw a spanner in the works, my other idea was to print three-part moulds - a centre with a hump to create the void where the inner goes and two outers keyed to the centre for the walls/tread. Then just pour silicon into it with single pour and vent holes on the top. Easy to make in fusion just put your tyre model inside a big cylinder use combine cut, then split body. This is how I make dies for Louvers etc and it works well.

As I say, Lynda is your friend. I went from zero to productive in about 4 weeks using it, and never looked back, so I have to disagree with you about it being prohibitive I’m afraid.

One last radiator question for the Bentley experts - what does the header tank do at the front where it meets the core? Is it a vee shape running into the matrix or cut straight across leaving a triangular void between it and the core, or something else I haven’t thought of?

Yes tried all the tricks, exported as a step, re imported etc, etc. I did find a surface error in inspector and I was able to repair/stitch, it's still a dog though after all that. It's just a complex thing I think according to fusion - you can see why here, that's a hell of a lot of surfaces

This probably doesn't seem much, but I've had so much trouble with it, I've been close to giving in, which isn't like me at all 😞 I've even gone as far as a completely new, clean installation of fusion and it's still a pig, even simple operations like opening a sketch are taking minutes. What really annoys me is the machine is doing nothing while this is happening, its not busy at all, I just can't see what the bottleneck is - very, very frustrating!

That all makes sense now. I have been grappling with this bloody radiator for so long now. The combination of honeycomb core and wire mesh grille kills even my monster machine and it's virtually ground to a halt doing this. I know why, my 28 cores count for nothing as fusion single threads. There's something about the nature of this drawing that has totally killed it dead though. Anyway, I'm nearing completion despite all that,- an update soon. Your last set of photos was a life saver now I just noticed the two tubes poking put out of the inside of the core at the base of the radiator! Pictures soon Nick

I do it all the time, it's the only way to go IMHO for stuff like this. You get complete control over scaring to it's much easier to remove a continuous or broken line on a visible surface than a load of pock marks. The printining is more consistent too if you care about repeatability. I often break them up a bit as you can see, this works well too. This has got 'sacrificial' surfaces too. Think, conventional resin casting where you have a lump to sand away. This works well for the base of this block. It makes it too substantial to warp and you get a perfectly flat, out of sight mating surface after sanding. Nick

OK, well same idea. Make the nacelles as I have them separate and symmetrical, then build the Pylon and joining structure as One unit, blend that, then join the nacelles on afterwards. Your pylons don't need all those profiles, just sweep the biggest one and trim after joining You're having problems because your basic shapes aren't clean and smooth I think.

This is very rough, but illustrates what I was alluding to, create the base shapes shell, Mirror, join and fillet This isn't supposed to be a B52 Nacelle it's just a quick and dirty to illustrate the technique.

I don’t mind taking a quick look if you want to share your design, send me a pm and I’ll give you my fusion ID.

There aren’t any questions? Just roughly crop a jpg image of the font you’re looking for to just the word you want, upload or drag drop it onto the page I gave you, done. if your flexible tyre is just oversize and regular, and otherwise OK, scale your print down in chitubox to 9x.xx% using the 1.3mm vs the diameter. Ie diameter / diameter+1.3mm = scale factor use an infill pattern if you don’t want it fully solid, lychee is probably better at this than chitubox but chitubox will still do it. Or alternatively, I’m not convinced about the rings you’re printing inside the wheel to be honest. Can’t you print it hollow and put something inside it like a a silicon/vinyl/rubber tube of about the right diameter cut to length and bent into a torus? Or even print a solid torus in standard resin if the new resin is flexible enough to go over it? Two halves of expanded polystyrene packing foam cut to shape would also work etc, etc Finally, I’ve just got a Saturn 3 Ultra and it’s very good, as well as being big enough to print your tyres. I bought it because I’ve concluded the Saturn 2 I’ve had for a year is basically landfill. I’ve wasted about 5x its cost in resin trying to get it to print reliably and still failed. The 3 does appear to work a lot better (so far) just sayin. Generally be cautious of big printers in my experience, I’ve concluded they’re probably quite good at printing big mini figures produced by others, which is what most people seem to want them for, but if you want to print bigger, still accurate parts like we do, or worse larger quantities of smaller parts, it’s a minefield. I naively thought a Saturn/Jupiter is just a bigger Mars 2 pro, how wrong I was. drop me a pm if you’re interested, it’s a long story! you’re getting close though and your tyre looks good to me, plus you’re saving me a load of time and resin! 👍😜

When the shapes have joined you should just be able to select the line where they meet, press f and then chain and/or CTRL click further segments and just set a fillet radius

What’s the issue? You need a clean union between the two bodies, it looks like you have some kind on non-contigous join there? You have combined the bodies I assume?

https://www.linkedin.com/learning/

Honestly, stump up for a months worth of linked-in learning, lynda as was. It’s worth every penny, properly structured. All the free stuff means well, but there are so many conflicting ways of doing everything you’re much better using a single, trusted source IMHO. That’s what I did anyway and I’ve never looked back

Fillets are your friends. Don't try and do everything with the loft. Look at the base shapes/structures (edit the fillets out in your head, look at the structures, not the unions) and get them right, after you join them, the fillets will do all the blending. For something like this work solid then shell at the end to get whatever wall thickness you want. personally, I would model the nacelle basic shape, mirror it. then create the joining centre structure and blend with fillets, not try and get them in the loft, it's too hard. This is how the real thing would have been made. When it's right , it's like magic, all the complexity you're grappling with is automatically generated in the fillet for you. Feel free to ignore me! just a suggestion. Nick

Sorry late to the party here, what the font is your friend:- https://www.myfonts.com/pages/whatthefont Just paste an image of the font you're trying to match and away you go. Have fun. I've been putting off printing tyres due to support issues like you. My current plan is to split them along the tread, effectively into two halves. especially if they have a non-zig-zag bit of tread like these. Why? 1. they print fast because they have little height. 2. the detail on the walls will be sharp and accurate because it's being printed in the optimum orientation 3. it should be possible to print a latching setup to join the two halves, hidden internally. 4. they will print directly on the plate, which means they will be round and true, and there won't be any scaring. That said, I haven't done it yet. I've just finished about a 5-litre long battle with my Saturns getting the lift speeds and distances dialled in. They' ve been unreliable since day one and this is the problem I now know. Also for logos etc. I always go to illustrator first and produce a nice clean vector from my source jpgs . Pull this into fusion as an svg and away you go, you can just scale, rotate etc, then extrude straight away. You don't want to be messing about trying to do graphics/fonts/logos etc in fusion it's just too hard. Horses for courses etc. Yes it's another step, but much easier. You start to build a bit of a library up too of re-useable assets - Bosch, Lucas, Magnetti Marelli etc, etc Nick

This is looking great. Did you actually take 2.2mm off the springs then? If so I was wondering why you couldn’t just compress them this much and epoxy the shaft of the shock absorber at the correct length? I guess it would leave it under load a bit, but only like the real thing! Nick

I’ve been working on a lot of clean and unweathered cars and aircraft lately so I fancied a bit of a weathering frenzy to get it out of my system. An innocent, unsuspecting and long shelved Tamiya Panzer fell victim to this unprovoked attack unfortunately. Out of the box and made up so not based on any actual evidence of any real machine.

That's immaculate, very impressive. It must be quite a big lad too as others have said!