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About AnonymousFY21

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  • Birthday 05/26/1982

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  1. Yeah probably sensible really. Good tip. I use that for silicone sealant, didn't know it worked on Latex. As usual BM teaches me something again. rich
  2. I'm sure a certain visitor will see to it that you don't , not that they make ninjas in that size . rich
  3. Nice to see you back to modelling Dan, but I hate to point this out at a critical moment, it's a helicopter. Seriously it's good to see you back fettling the old plastic, and as always looking to see what magic you'll weave. rich
  4. Aren't we drifting a little away from daktari's original post? Right now to sit down with and .. I'll provide the beer Troffa, you the popcorn, fair? rich
  5. I guess it's a possibility Vallejo have got it wrong! Please don't tell me you are relying on those photos that come from an unknown source, where we don't know if the white balance was correctly set. Not forgetting ambient light conditions on the day, and I'll bet you aren't using a calibrated monitor. The short of it is the pics cannot be used as a definitive reference, and as Mike has said Bobski knows this plane, so if he says it's Barley grey, it is! richc
  6. Tis an interesting question. I've done a bit more digging and it doesn't look as if ammonia will do it. It's used as an anti coagulant in liquid latex, not a solvent. One quote I found said that acetone doesn't work as his latex gloves survived. What he may not realise is the acetone will go almost straight through into his skin, and hence blood stream. Whoever it was needs to coma and work in our lab where latex gloves were used until H&S said we can't. The acetone made the gloves fall apart quite literally. Maybe I should have been clearer. The Latex does not re-dissolve, it just breaks down and can be gradually removed, but as I and Pigsty said, the brush isn't much use for anything other than masking fluid application again. I had the same brush I used for years in my previous modelling spat, just made sure it was cleaned after each use with cellulose thinners. richc
  7. It's not on the site yet for some reason. A quick warning! Just checked it out in an editing program and it DOES NOT scale for 1/48th like all the others yet. I guess that's in the works before it appears on the site. rich
  8. I've used cellulose thinners or acetone in the past to get the dried latex out. It's a tough messy job, and you must wear appropriate gloves (Nitrile, thick). To be honest the brush will never be much use for anything other than applying latex again. If you keep some cellulose thinners about and clean the brush straight away it will be usable over and over again for application of masking fluid, but very litle else. richc
  9. Damn you Andy. You've done it again! Leave my wallet alone......... The sharks mouth intakes scheme is awesome, so I guess these are next on the list, along with the wheels. The only thing that concerns me is the fact the decals are matt. I have never had any luck with matt decals. They've always seemed to be made of cardboard with no adhesive properties whatsoever! Do you have any previous experience of this companies products? richc
  10. Cheers for the review Mike. It's a nice little? kit isn't it. I'm just waiting for the E-2C+ with the Dowty blades. richc
  11. Good God Shaun, I thought you'd been abducted! Nice to see you are still at it. looking very good there mate. Not too much to do now . rich
  12. Certainly gets confusing all this re-boxing, especially when the same company re-boxes two different kits of the same subject at different times. rich
  13. The Italeri one does indeed come with a full engine. It is very similar to the Gunze one in detail apart from the etch, just plastic really (and some huge sink marks in really bad places). The Revell one is the old Protar I believe, but the Italeri one was a unique kit. I have compared the Italeri and Revell ones and there is no way they can be the same. richc
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