darson

Gary if I recall the Aussie P-40Es used the standard US harness. Cheers

Great work so far Martin, please keep the updates coming.

Nice neat little build there Fred, great job.

While the Airfix kit is the most accurate Flanker OOB in 1/72 scale, it has some major fit problems so I wouldn't advise it if you don't want to sand and putty all day long... After market items for this kit are not exactly thick on the ground but there might be something out there. The better option is the Revell kit which is the Hase kit re-popped. The shape issues with this kit concern the nose which is easily replaced with an item from Quickboost http://acc.kitreview.com/qb72001reviewme_1.htm You might just buy the Eduard cockpit detail set, because the kit has decal instruments. Very nice injected K-36 DM ejection seat, but without seatbelts, which are included in the Eduard set. The decal sheet from the Revell kit is excellent and includes 2 Russian and 1 Ukrainian schemes.

I just had to see what at I need to ignore???

Hi Erwin, Squadron.com have a set of 48th Aeromaster B-29 decals available here Cheers

Hey Moof, if Iain can't get his printer running you might want to get yourself a set of these at Sprue Brothers

Jason I would go for the Fw 190 D-9 if I were you as these are a lot less fiddly than the Eduard A series as they don't contain a full engine, just the rear part which can be viewed through the wheel well. Excellent kit, magnificent details and plenty of marking options available (either in the box or AM).

Andy go for 50:50 Tamiya thinner with the X1 and spray at about 18psi. Spray several thin coats that build up rather than one thick one.

Well I have read through through this thread and placed my order with Models for Sale. I am not waiting for the wholesaler to get the kit here sometime next year. I am going to look for a replacement seat, cannon barrels and exhausts, so could someone in the know advise what sort of wing and cannon I'm looking for, ie it's a standard c wing with standard c wing cannons. Cheers

If you say you can spray intermittently at the start of the session and then things stop, you are not thinning adequately and the nozzle on your AB is becoming blocked with paint. Can you tell me what ratio of thinners to paint you are using and what thinners you are using? Cheers

I like to give things 24 hours as well just to make sure.

Hi Nick, I hope these help. Darren

Sorry to sound daft here but do you just stick your airbrush in the cleaner and turn it on or do you break it down first?

I discovered that the hard way myself when picking up the turret of my Panzer II. Fixed the problem with a warm soapy wash of the whole model and then a re-spray.

I've had a similar experience in that my LHS started stocking Lifecolor and as I heard good things about them I thought I would give them a bash. I have been spraying 50:50 paint to Lifecolor thinner at about 15psi and the results have been lovely. I have really fallen in love with these paints and they are now equal faves along with Gunze.

That's some great looking work Andy, what color scheme are you going to paint her in? Also are you using the link 'n' length tracks or the rubber band ones? Cheers

Luis this is a fantastic idea for a build and the work you've done on it so far has been amazing, please keep those pictures and updates coming. Cheers

Great looking build, I will definitely be looking forward to seeing more of it. Cheers

No problems Bruce and one thing I forgot to mention was if you own an electric razor, you can add your shaving stubble to the mud mixture which sounds kind of gross but it makes excellent "grass & plants" caught up in the mud.

I use Gunze, Tamiya, Lifecolor & Valejo paints and I use Windex exclusively to clean by Iwata for all of these paints. It's cheap, non toxic (but I wouldn't drink it that's for sure), doesn't stink and works a treat.

everything Jonners said there except for the that fact that I have switched to Mr Color Thinners for both Gunze & Tamiya paints rather than the other way around as I tend to use Gunze 90% of the time now.

A couple of things, when you buy pastels in an art shop make sure you DON'T get oil pastels, get chalk pastels. Water based artists paints will work but artists oils are a much better medium to work with for weathering aircraft or AFVs. They came in varying grades from very cheap to bloody expensive. Be careful of using real dirt from the garden on models, the size of the grains are way too large and don't look realistic. If you can get you hands on some very fine sand and mix it with a bit of (insert local brand here) filler it makes great scale mud and dirt. You can add chalk pastels to the mix to pre-color it or just paint it afterwards. Cheers

Hi all, I'd really like to get on board with this group build with a kit which has literally just turned up on my desk. I'll be doing the Tamiya 1/100 B-52D Stratofortress I know nothing about this kit at all and it's in a bizarre scale but I remembered a mate had one when I was a kid and I've always wanted one.

I'm thinking more on the lines of the big T covering off the best fighters of WWII in 32nd. Spitfire Mk.IX & Mk.VIII - Check Zero A6M - Check Mustang P-51 - Check Messerschmitt Bf-109 - Market flooded in this scale so not likely Focke-Wulf FW-190 - Definite possibility Maybe, the "A" series variants could make some real money. Yakovlev Yak-3 - Maybe but not a lot of mass market appeal. Corsair F4U-4 - Good possibility given the lack of sophistication in the Trumpy kit Lightning P-38 - Bingo, this is my tip for the next kit Hayate Ki-84 - Not likely the Hase kit is a gem