darson
-
Posts
754 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Media Demo
Posts posted by darson
-
-
Cockpit colour, for Mk.Is is Humbrol 90, and the seat, being metal, was also green. Rudder pedals only had one crossbar, plus the leather strap over the top. The harness, which did not come through the hole in the backrest (mainly because there wasn't one!) should be tan.
Edgar
I just noticed some things in your post Edgar and had a couple of questions.
The armoured plate behind the pilots head that I think you are referring to with regards to the harness is not supplied in the Tamiya kit, can you tell me approx when the two armoured plates behind the pilot (head and back) started to be used operationally? I always scratch build these two armour plates for my BoB Spits thinking they would be operational by then.
When did the Bakelite (sp) seat become operational, I thought it was early 1940? So wouldn't a red/brown seat be accurate for a BoB Spitfire?
-
Tim nice job on the 109, I wish my 3rd plane turned out that well.
One observation I could make is that for your next build when you are spraying mottle, turn down the pressure on your compressor a tad and use a little more thinner than usual in your paint. You will find the mottle easier to put on and you will avoid overspray.
Cheers
-
Bo I believe from my references that the two O2 cylinders were used to power the .303 Brownings. The pilots O2 supply is a smaller bottle (black in my references) on the other side of the fuselage.
Peepbeep I'll probably get shot down in flames for this but every reference that I have showing an "unrestored" Spitfire has the wheel well the same color as the underside of the wing.
Cheers
-
Beautiful build Pete that one’s a keeper for sure
.Lovely weathering by the way, not too over the top but enough to show the bird off as it should be.
Cheers
-
Wow
that's a bloody nice model Dean, congratulations.Oh and very nicely photographed as well.
Cheers
-
Well I just ordered mine from Great Models for 39 GBP (incl shipping).
-
Yummy
, that baby is definitely going to find its way into my collection ASAP. As far as I am concerned when you consider that you get a resin pit & wheel wells, Eduard PE fret and a beautiful looking decal sheet all included, it's a bargain for a 1/32 kit.Cheers
-
Aside from the turned pitot & AOA sensors wouldn't you be better off with the Eduard pre-colored PE set (Eduard EDFE383) for £4.99 from Hannants? The Eduard set seems far more comprehensive and better quality than the Tamiya offering, which looks to me like the sort of stuff Trumpeter give away in some of their kits.
Cheers
-
Great looking progress Rab, keep the updates coming.
Cheers
-
Hey Guys - How are this evening, well I hope?!
Listen - let me explain. Over the last few months I've built a number of models against the deadlines set by Editing Military In Scale, most of which have been fine (the Canberra and Nimrod amongst others...) but equally, I've had some go west - such as the Hellcat and a number of vehicles. The problem with the decals were just the tip of the iceberg on this project and so I had to make the decision to either wrestle with it (against the clock...), have my frustration levels rise as result, or just call it quits - my foot on top of the model, forcing the latter choice in this case!
I appreciate that this may sound extreme, but I have little time or patience for models failing on me and so won't think twice to call it quits - just as I did here, no matter how long I've spent on the project. If I loose patience, interest and heart to complete a model, thats it - it just won't get done.
I hope that this explains the reason behind this rather draconian measure. Now all I have to do is build another cos I really want a bloody Hellcat in my collection - not to mention within the pages of MIS!!!
Spence
Spence that's a major bummer, I was really looking forward to reading the article in MIS and gloating to SWMBO that I had seen it come together on Britmodeller (This is something I do all the time with Lu's work on FSM). Tough luck mate but I'm sure you'll bounce back with soothing better although this does open the window of opportunity for some enterprising modeller to appear in FSM!!!
Cheers
-
to the forum mate and it looks like you've really nailed that pre-shade, nice job
-
Nick I've built four of the Tamiya 1/48 Spitfire Mk.Is over the last few years and they are a dream to build and if you are looking for a few aftermarket items for that nice open canopy look, may I suggest the Eduard Zoom Set and Ultracast prop, spinner & exhaust stacks. These aren’t mandatory but they do look really cool.
In my experience Tamiya decals go down beautifully with a little decal setting solution such as Mr Mark Softener.
Btw I have the Airfix kit in the stash but haven't got round to building it yet.
Cheers
-
You get it through the mail? I was led to believe that was a no-no and such shipments would be stopped at the gate.
David, yeah I got it through the mail no problems so if your mate has a source in the USA he should have no problems. Also, I just re-read my original post and realised what a garbled mess it was. What I was trying to say was "Tell your friend to go with One Go as Pledge is not as kind to acrylic finishes as it could be."
Cheers
-
Lads a mate of mine on another forum posted this link to one of the most amazing pieces of modeling I have ever seen, I thought it only right that I should share it with you as well.
By the way the text is in Polish (I believe) but words are really not needed to appreciate what this guy is doing
Cheers
-
I'm having problems with leaks with my new Aztek and Ripmax. Initially I thought this was because the brass adaptor was not fully tight against the Ripmax, and tightening this did seem to help but didn't stop the leak completely. I think the problem lies with the poor fit of the brass adaptor into the plastic fitting on the end of the Aztek hose. I placed the rubber washer inside, but the brass does not screw down fully to meet the washer. I think it should, to stop leaks. If I try tightening the brass further it looks as though I am re-cutting the thread inside the plastic fitting and I don't think that's a good idea.
Any suggestions?
Graham, sorry but I'm not familiar with the Ripmax brand of compressor but from the sound of the problem I would try using a little plumbers sealing tape around the piece the brass adaptor fits on to. I used a similar technique when I set up my current compressor.
Cheers
-
As mentioned Future is not available in Australia, neither unfortunately is Klear.
Pledge One Go is the best substitute followed by Pascoe's Long Life you're in a pinch. Tell your friend to go with One Go as is not as kind to acrylic finishes as it could be. If your mate is really desperate he can order the real deal from Great Models web store.
Just as a note I have tried all three and am able to use Future through a mate in the USA. The local products are OK but real Future beats them both hands down.
Cheers
-
I love and want one for sure but I guarantee that given that it's a Trumpeter kit it will be (or already has been) deemed "un-buildable" by the experten because some doo dad isn't correctly shaped, or the rivets are the wrong shape, or some such rubbish.
Sorry but I'm having a bad day
Cheers
-
I don't know how I have missed this thread but as has been said numerous times; fantastic work Karl, that's a really nice piece of modeling.
Cheers
-
Great job PetrOs and I really like the weathering, I hope mine turns out as well as yours.
Cheers
-
Great work so far... One of my wishes is to build a biplane one day but all the wiring, and simulating canvas and wood textures gives me creeps and everytime I open a box, I quickly close it and push into stash...
Really nice work by the way.
-
Spence, I love it and I'm sure it's going to be a real ball tearer when finished.
I understand this will be appearing in a future MIS (which issue btw) but can you give us a bit of a run down on your technique?
Cheers
-
I've seen film and pictures of this being done.Corsairs that had just virtually flown on and been serviced were shoved over the side or fantail at the end of hostilities.
Do folks know what happened to a lot of the FAA's Griffon Seafires when they'd finished with 'em???.
They used them for one-way trip steam catapult trials.
They were simply fired unmanned off the deck with enough petrol in them to fly a few miles infront of the carrier and just crashed into the sea when the fuel ran out.
They hadn't any wing tips on,the cockpit doors and canopies were also removed.The engine was started and opened up to full throttle and fully fine pitch,the rating then jumped out of the cockpit and the aircraft was catapulted off.
Mark
It's enough to make you weep.
Cheers
-
Personally I'd just like Airfix to keep on releasing commercially successful kits of the Canberra and Nimrod. I'm not the world’s biggest Airfix fan by any means (I’m not an Airfix hater either) but I do hope they keep churning out more kits of the quality they have established with their last two releases. Commercial success with mainstream kits will give them the ability to branch out into some of the more esoteric kits that you guys are hoping for.
Cheers
-
GCN she's looking great, especially that front office I love the technique for displaying the dials on the IP, I'll have to give that a whirl myself. About the only thing I would add to the instruments is a drop of Future or Kristal Klear on each dial to represent glass.
Keep the photos coming
.Cheers
that's a bloody nice model Dean, congratulations.
, that baby is definitely going to find its way into my collection ASAP. As far as I am concerned when you consider that you get a resin pit & wheel wells, Eduard PE fret and a beautiful looking decal sheet all included, it's a bargain for a 1/32 kit.
to the forum mate and it looks like you've really nailed that pre-shade, nice job 
BF 109F Trop
in Aircraft WWII
Posted
Tim you are on the right track, but on mine I just added some flesh colour to the base coat and with a mixture of 90/10 thinners and paint and then misted that in an irregular swirling pattern concentrating on the upper surfaces. IMHO white just makes the base coat look bleached not faded.
By the way are you doing the Hasegawa kit or the ICM and how about some pics?
Cheers