darson
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Posts posted by darson
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IMHO Iwata makes the best airbrushes around. I have the Eclipse and the Hi-Line and they are both fantastic pieces of kit. However whenever anybody asks one of these "which one is best" questions you will end up with as many different brands as replies.
Cheers
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Great work Pete
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This GB is out to get me! First the lizzie had no decals and instruction (now sourced)and now when going through the box contents of the 110 last night I'm minus the PE bits.
anyone know what my chances are of getting a replacement from Eduard and how I go about it?
Ok Mish have you looked carefully in the instruction booklet and under the decal sheet as it's only a small fret and can easily slip under something.
I have no idea how you would go about getting a replacement sorry but on the bright side all Eduard kits are made to be built with either the styrene or PE bits so you still have a buildable kit even if you cannot find the PE.
I've just looked at my fret and if I lost it about the only thing I would replace would be a set of generic German seatbelts from Eduard, the rest I could live without.
Sorry but hope this helps a bit.
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I'm really looking forward to this one Chris it should an awesome build. The only thing is where the heck are you going to put the completed kit, it's huge?????
Also, a bit of a confession, I had a haircut almost exactly the same as that singer in the clip back in the 80s
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Don't thin with acrylic thinners
I found out to my horror is turns to 'gloop' in your airbrush.
PJ this is a classic reason you do not mix paint in your AB. Buy a packet of 50 plastic drink cups from the supermarket for a couple of $ and mix your paint in those. Only add it to the AB once you are happy with the consistency.
Also, Revell are not renowned for their paints and whilst I don't wish to hang s***e on them you would be better off starting out with Tamiya Acrylics while you are learning.
Cheers
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I'll third the Blu Tack option and it's also great for doing hard edge camo schemes using the sausage method.
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A guy over here in Aus has come up with something he thought would just be for railroad guys, but it's been very popular with the guys at IPMS as well. It's a piece of hard plastic with sets of holes drilled in it at increasing distances apart (sorry I don't have a photo). All you do thread the wire through the holes for the size handle you want pull tight and snip.
It sells here for the princely sum of $10, but would be very easy to make yourself with a piece of styrene sheet, a ruler, a pencil and a drill.
Cheers
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Does that apply to clear gloss, thats the problem im having. Sorry for not being more specific
Yes mate it does and remember once your AB is setup with paint always spray a few lines back and forth on some scrap paper before you spray your model, that way you can avoid a lot of painting disasters.
Cheers
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Hey,
Anyone had this at all, not sure why but with the Revell Enamel Air Gloss paint, I try to use in my airbrush and it sprays out like spiders web?. Stirred and stirred it, still does the same. This is meant to be the straight out of the jar in to the airbrush stuff!!. About the only thing i can do with it it put a few cob webs everywhere!!!.
PJ you're going to need to thin the paint with white spirit or some other enamel thinner until it's about the consistency of milk, and then give it a spray.
I use Artist Quality White Spirits when I use enamel paint as it's readily available from art shops and is cheap, it also happens to be an excellent thinner btw.
Also, always mix/thin your paint and then add the paint to the air brush and you will get much more consistent results.
HTH
EDIT
Forgot to mention, if you already have thinned your paint to milk consistency, then dial up your PSI
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I use Gunze Acrylics and love them, they have a great color range, go on beautifully, and are tough, don't clog my Iwata and have a satin finish to them which can take an enamel wash straight onto it, which is great for cockpits.
I have tried and do occasionally use both Vallejo Model Art and Air and they do go on lovely but I have found they tend to clog the old AB quite easily and are very delicate and easily damaged on a model. However this is probably more to do with me than the paint.
Cheers
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Thanks for the link Darren, as for colour schemes I've no thought about it. It would be good if we all did something different. How many choices does the kit have?
Hmmm says he quickly flicking through the instructions, there's five options but one is for pre Battle of Britain and one is for Nth Africa so that leaves us one each
Cheers
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Rab as you're using Vallejo Model Air you won't need to thin the paint any further as it is already to go straight out of the bottle.
By the way what Pete said was spot on practise till the cows come home on paper and only change one thing at a time so you can gauge its effect. As for PSI, play around between 12-18 and see how you like the effect of more or less air pressure.
Also, if you find the Vallejo drying and clogging your AB add a drop or two of the Vallejo Model Air thinners not for thinning purposes but as a retarder.
Happy modelling
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Mish from what I've heard it's not really a bad or hard kit to put together it just needs a little extra attention in some places particularly when fitting the engine nacelles to the wings.
If you haven't already, check out Brett Greens downloadable build guide for the Eduard 110, which can be found here. Even though it's for the E model, it's still a very good reference for building and painting an Eduard Bf 110.
Btw Mish and Andy what scheme are you guys going to do? I'm still undecided but it's between the box art and the one with the bumble bee nose art.
Cheers
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Great shots Steve and thanks for posting. I particularly like the shot (3rd from the bottom) of the Tornado flying through the smoke.
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Keep going with your air brush you will not be sorry in the long run even if there is a little bit of a learning curve and remember when practising with your trusty AB you don't have to practice on your latest kit. Get a couple of pieces of paper and practice your techniques for as long as you like, play around with different mixing ratios of thinner to paint as well as different compressor settings and see their effect. After a short while you'll find out that it isn't really all that hard after all.
Also, what John said is absolutely true, the old hairy stick will never be fully replaced for some jobs however there are things that you can do with an AB that are impossible with a paint brush.
Lastly just make sure you keep your AB in good working order by keeping it totally clean, I would suggest Windex as a cleaning agent for acrylic paints, white spirit for enamel paints and lacquer (cellulose) thinner for lacquer paints.
Happy modelling
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Bart sorry I can't answer your question because I don't use rattle cans but I would suggest that you try it out with a scrap wing & scrap decal before use just to make sure.
Cheers
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Looks just fantastic Pete, those Atak sets are really worth every penny aren't they.
By the way are you planning on painting the tracks with them already fixed to the lower hull, or will you remove them first.
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Here is where my build for the Battle of Britain GB can camp out until construction begins in a couple of weeks time.
I'm planning on doing the Eduard 1/48 Bf 110C built OOB to IPMS competition rules.
I can't wait to get my hands on this baby
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To be honest most of the time I just use a 10 zero brush around the hubs and a slightly larger brush for the rest of the wheel. If I am in the mood and it's a big project I'll pull out the old template and give the AB a go but I find that is quite rare now.
You'll find that most of your handiwork disappears under dust, mud and dirt anyway so don't get to fussy.
Cheers
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Thanks for posting this Dave, I'm really looking forward to this kit I just hope I don't have to take a second mortgage out on the house to buy one.
Cheers
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It's probably been mentioned before but for me it would have to be the Mk.VIII/IX. This to my eyes is the ultimate evolution of Mitchell's design.
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Looks great so far Tim, please keep the updates coming.
Cheers
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Hey there Jazzy,
There is a very good article on Internet Modeler by Chris Bucholtz which addresses all the areas of concern with the Tamiya 1/72 spit. Have a read of the article and make use of the bits and pieces that you want.
Happy modeling
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Well Photobucket is working just fine from where I'm sitting and nice Spit by the way.
Also, welcome to the forum I hope you enjoy your stay.
Cheers
Whats the best Airbrush
in Airbrushes
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Daz do yourself a favour and get a compressor for your badger, it will take your already great tanks to the next level.
Cheers