darson

Hi guys & gals I have been looking for a quick build over summer and have both the Hasegawa & Revell 1/72 Tornado GR.1 kits in my stash and was wondering which one do you guys feel is the better kit in terms of accuracy, build & detail? Thanks

It must be my monitor or the color balances because to my eyes it looks like plain old Green and Dark Earth over (dirty oil stained) Sky with a white spinner and fuselage band . Cheers

Great work Dave she really turned out nicely . Congrats on your contest win as well. Cheers

Haven't built this one myself but Hasegawa Phantoms are the best out there bar none, if I see it on the shelves I'll definitely be picking one up. Marking in the kit include: 1) Royal Navy HMS Ark Royal No.892 Sqn 007:XT864 1977 2) Royal Navy HMS Ark Royal No.892 Sqn 007:XT871 3) Royal Navy HMS Ark Royal No.892 Sqn 014:XT860 1975-76 4) Royal Navy HMS Ark Royal No.892 Sqn 014:XT863 1977 "RED THISTLE FLIGHT" 5) Royal Navy HMS Ark Royal No.892 Sqn 001:XT859 1976 Royal Navy 1100 years anniv. 6) Royal Navy HMS Ark Royal No.892 Sqn 001:XV590 Aug.,1978 "COLONIAL NAVY" 7) Royal Navy HMS Ark Royal No.892 Sqn 002:XV568 1977

Great looking build Pappy and a really enjoyable write-up as well, keep those pics coming!!! Btw are you a mate of Andrew Perrin's by any chance? Cheers

Awesome looking build and magnificently weathered as well, congratulations.

At a guess I would say that iIf the aircraft was purpose built for the RAF it would have been painted in RAF equivelant colors with roundels in the US prior to shipping to the Brits. However if the aircraft was diverterd from US stock to the RAF for some reason it would have arrived in OD/Neutral Grey with any markings painted over in RAF dark green. Cheers

Regardless of the brand of a particular model if you are not enjoying it then put it aside and move on to something else.

There's a couple of ways you can go about this Julien and both are fairly simple. The first is the old stretched sprue method, with the sprue glued to the model and smothered in Tamiya extra thin cement then textured with an old No 11 blade with the tip snapped off. The second is a little more tricky as it's harder to handle and involves very thin sausages of Miliput (or similar two part compound) placed on to the model where you want the weld seams, then textured with the tip of an old No 11 blade with the tip snapped off. Cheers

Mike either the Tamiya or Hasegawa Bf 109 E3/4/7 will do the job nicely. The Tamiya kit is the easier of the two brands to build and either one really only needs a PE harness and whatever decals you want to put on your bird.

Geoff I have built the Eduard/Airfix Spitfire 22/24 and there are a couple of things that you do need to watch out for: 1. The Airfix fuselage on my kit was quite badly warped which made dry fitting a real pain in the butt. I've heard about the warped fuselage from other people with this kit as well so check yours out. 2. Dry fit the Aires resin parts with the Airfix plastic parts over and over and over again. 3. You will need to do some serious grinding of the Airfix fuselage plastic parts as well as some serious wet sanding of the Aires resin parts in order to get them to fit together. The is especially true of the cockpit side walls and instrument panel parts, make sure you can dry fit the two fuselage halves along with the Aires resin cockpit inserts and the lower wing piece comfortably. 4. Resin and plastic can be sanded down to fit together; PE parts on the other hand are much more difficult. Take this into account when deciding which piece needs more grinding. 5. ALWAYS WEAR A VENTALATOR MASK when sanding resin, the resin particles and your lungs are not meant to be introduced to each other ever.... Hope this helps.

Dave the model is looking great, you've done some really nice work there!! If you don't mind a suggestion, I would ditch the airfix tracks altogether and leave the Sherman as is (trackless) on the transporter which looks just fine to me and it was a not uncommon sight to see trackless AFVs on transporters like this. As to rolling the tracks up for transport, I don't believe it will work as the old airfix tracks in this scale are too stiff and thick for a realistic effect. Cheers

I have never owned one of the Tamiya Lancs but that is certainly going to change when this bad boy is re-released. Can anyone give me a rundown on the kit as it stands i.e., raised panel lines cockpit & exterior detail etc... Cheers

Brad if it were me I would probably go for the Airfix kit for a couple of reasons, mainly price and ease of building. The interior details on the Airfix kit are a little on the agricultural side but to be honest you really cannot see that much through the canopy anyway. About the only things I would replace are the pilots bang seat and the decals. Cheers

Rich she looks like a real winner so far, great job. Also, could you tell me what technique you used to get the dihedral on the wings correct and did you just use CA to glue the wings on? Cheers

Fantastic build Jonners, you've really done a great job on a beautiful aircraft . Cheers

That's great work full stop, but in 72nd scale that is astounding

This is one kit I have been waiting for in Styrene for a long time, a direct vision hull Sherman II with the early Grant suspension from El Alamein. You can find some more shots here on Luck Model and it sure looks damn nice. Being a Tasca kit it's not cheap but you get what you pay for IMHO. The other thing I really like is that the sand shields are made of styrene and not PE which is a great move if you ask me. I built the DML Sherman III and it was great but it was definitely not a kit a beginner could do due to all the PE that was needed on the sand shields and fenders. Cheers

Fair nuff

Your Lanc is looking great Ian and that's some very nice scratch building you've done there. I must ask though, why didn't you save yourself some work and go with the Revell Lanc which is £5.00 cheaper and far better detailed than the Airfix offering? Cheers

Looks great from where I'm sitting, nice job

Great looking models Tony and the weathering is spot on, great job Btw I don't think your camo is controversial at all, my uncle John (well I still call him uncle) is a Brit and flew Spitfire Mk.VIIIs in Italy for 93 Sqn RAF and he swears that the Middle Stone colored areas of their Spits were definitely been over painted using a Dark Green. Cheers

Q. When laying down coats do I want to aim for 5-6 misted coats or 2-3 heavier wet coats? A. Personal preference is for misted coats so you don't obscure details in puddles of paint Q. When using a paint brush I'd obviously wait for the coat to dry before adding another but can I add further ab coats when the first is still visibly wet? A. I would wait for the paint to dry but depending on the effect you're after you don't need to let it cure. Q. Is it ok to mix paints in the ab cup? I worry about clogs of un-thinned paint getting through to cause blockages. (I have a thin pointed stirrer). A. You can but you can get undesirable and varying results. You are much better of to mix your paint in throw away plastic cups and pour the paint into your AB. Oh and I work with about 50/50 paint thinner and spray at about 18psi. HTH

I have the HP-CS and I have used it with and without the crown cap. When spraying large areas of plain color you will notice no difference what so ever but when it comes to very fine work the crown cap certainly comes in to its own and you will most certainly notice the difference. Cheers

Steve the wing fuselage Join is no Tamiya or Hasegawa that's for sure but it’s also something that’s very easy to fix so it doesn’t put me off in the slightest. Cheers