darson

Great looking work Mish, I would say that's a lot better than I could do but that's not much of a compliment if you know what I mean. Cheers

It's just a guess but I would say you'd be safe painting the undercarriage legs & wheel wells the same colour as the underside of the aircraft. Also, don't Quickboost do a set of 1/48th Hellcat exhausts? Cheers

I'll be looking forward to some pics coming through on this one Wez, I do love those armed to the teeth Typhoons. Btw are you doing the car dor version or the bubble top canopy? Cheers

Daz I'm part way thru building the Tasca Sherman II DV and it is without doubt the finest armour kit I have ever built. The engineering on these kits has to be seen to be believed and best of all the splash guards and sand shields are made from thin styrene rather than etched brass, which has always been the weakest point of the DML Shermans IMHO as it doesn't give the modeler the choice of mediums. The weakest/tricky or most gimmicky part of the Tasca Shermans is their "live" suspension, why they have done this I have no idea. Neil looking good mate and they really are a dream to build aren't they? Please keep the updates coming Cheers

Phil I wouldn't go so far as calling the Tasca suspension a pain in the bottom, its gimmicky true but it's not hard to build. Just replace the layers of vinyl with equally sized bits from a pencil eraser. Cheers

Thanks guys (& gal) so far so with the hull even though the upper half had a nice old warp in it. Once it's glued to the lower half however the warp should straighten itself out. As this is my first AFV Club kit I'm taking things slow and careful as I've heard good and bad things about this brand. Cheers

I've seen the Tamiya pit dressed up very nicely with the Eduard color zoom set which build on to the already very nice kit front office without replacing it. Cheers

All right then, I've made a start on my least favourite part of AFV kits, the running gear. I figure it's best to try and get this over and done with up front while I'm all enthusiastic and keen. This represents about two hours worth of bench time and mainly due to the fact that I've "distressed" the road wheels to give them that worn look. I used a fine file to take out nicks and gouges followed by a fine sand to take the edge of wear and tear. Oh and by the way feedback will be gratefully accepted. Next step is on to the hull.

May I offer an alternate introduction, Brick meet Heller kit. Heller kit, this is Brick

Absolutely Random, it's the 6th by my calendar so construction begins tonite. Cheers

Ted looking pretty good there and if you don't mind a little feedback I would possibly tone down some of the casting effect on the turret with a light wet sand with some 1200 grit wet and dry. Aside from that she looks great!!!! As for the paint in my opinion NATO green is going to be too light. A closer match out of the bottle would be Tamiya Deep Green XF-26. Keep the updates coming please Cheers

Ohhh yeah!!!! My favorite bird (next to the Phantom that is) in my favorite markings and looking good Mal keep those updates coming. Cheers

1/48 Hasegawa, no one else comes even close. 1/72 NFI as I've never built one but take your pick from Hobby Boss, Italeri, Tamiya (re-pop of the Italeri kit) Academy, Airfix or Hasegawa

OMG what a fantastic looking build, nice one Honza Mind if I ask what parts were Aires and what was kit? I'm guessing cockpit and burner cans but can you confirm for me, also if is an Aires cockpit what was the fit like? Cheers

It was supposed to represent an Australian DAP (Department of Aircraft Production) Beaufighter 21. It even had the Sperry autopilot attachment on the nose and foliage green paint. Although the actual aircraft is nowhere near that roomy on the inside. It did look cool though didn't it? Cheers

For anyone thinking of doing some German armor, check out this link which lists all the German AFVs used in the Normandy campaign. German AFV in Normandy Cheers

There's nothing wrong with those older Monogram kits especially when you spruce them up with a bit of PE or resin. I'll be looking forward to the updates as this one comes together. Cheers

Looks awesome so far Justin, keep those updates coming.

I'll be watching this one so I can steal er, leverage your face painting secrets Mish.

From first inspection it looks pretty damn good detail wise, about the only thing that's missing that I would have liked is the option for sand shields on the sides. Depending on how energetic I get I might just scratch build a couple of sections as in the photo above. Cheers

Thanks guys, I'm really looking forward to kicking this one off. Cheers

OK lads and lasses her's my entry for this build, it's the 1/35 AFV Club M3A3 Stuart V as used by the 7th Armored Div just after the D-Day landings. I'm also using the very nice Hobby Fan British Stuart crew and stowage to give the kit a little of that lived in look. As I'm absolutely crap at painting figures I'd appreciate any help you guys and gals can provide along the way. Here's the obligatory box & sprue shots Here's a shot of the real thing that I'll be be basing my build on Cheers

Peter I've had this same problem with my HP-CS before and peebeep is spot on in that it turned out to be a nozzle problem. Follow his instructions on cleaning the nozzle and if that doesn't work buy yourself a new nozzle. In the end this is what I did and it resolved the problem immediately. Cheers

To be honest in this day and age of older kits being re-issued with an extra sprue that has a few add on bits (Tamiya Lanc), I'm also amazed that Airfix hasn't re-released this kit. Geez throw in an extra sprue with some new tooled bits and pieces along with maybe a mask for the cockpit and the thing would walk off the shelves. Oh yeah and sell it at a reasonable price and you'd change that to run off the shelves. Cheers

Paul as the old saying goes the only stupid questions are the ones unasked. In answer to your question, if you are priming your model in white then the pre-shade would go on over the white primer because if you put it under the primer your are going to loose the effect completely. I normally apply a pre-shade in a dark grey like RLM-66 as I find this a lot less stark than black. I then apply multiple thin coats over the top until you can just make out the shadeing underneath. Sometimes you go to far and you loose the whole effect and others you won't go far enough and the effect looks s***e. It's just a matter of practice that's all. Cheers