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s.e.charles

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About s.e.charles

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    northeast coast

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  1. yes; thank you! (that same company has quite a few interesting tools)
  2. I think if you added a drizzle of pva around the handle they would look more rounderish. as is, they are still a much improved version than kit's.
  3. anyone know the brand of this tool? about 15 seconds in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wx0XSOKwDUg&list=PLswKyja_xQfJfHd48puF0GRFzx-95ULC_&index=38 there's an amazon Japan (?) link, but I would like to buy from amazon USA if possible. thanks
  4. I do that same shape lengthways with (money) bills waiting in line at the grocers or coffee shop. if it's an exceptionally long wait, i'll start folding the folded bill into a zigzag from one end to the other. pretty similar to this:
  5. "The thing that's buggin me with these are the valve taps. They should be the open, cog-style design, but Meng have moulded them as solid discs. Ideally I'd like to replace them, but I don't know of anything like that available in 1/35. Otherwise, I've just file some indentations around the perimeter of the taps to make them look knurled (the bonnet tank already comes with a knurled tap, so that's one less to do) " maybe some HO or N scale brake wheels? or even watchmaker parts (craft stores by the vial) https://www.bowser-trains.com/history/hocalscalefreightcar.html https://www.amazon.com/YIYATOO-Vintage-Steampunk-Wheels-Crafting/dp/B016JSLT9M thanks for the search suggestion, too!
  6. this looks like a great kit. some random thoughts/ observations: the overall detail appears complete and well done. I like the tan styrene. dark green gets tiresome to work on; similar to sewing on black fabric - takes way too much focus to see the little nuances. MENG is not bashful getting their name on the body pan. would be a bit of a chore to remove along with numbers but it looks like those would offer a fighting chance. any chance you could share the link to the real rolling chassis photo? looks very helpful for all the tiny details/ parts. does the kit have a dedicated aftermarket photo etch or too new? I know sometimes the aftermarket companies jump on these things pretty quick. if not, is there a specific kit which would be applicable? or are they all going to offer the same basic details? thanks; following along!
  7. Finescale Miniatures had the best instructions I can remember for making a poster look somewhat scale & worn down. cut to desired size. cut a piece of thin masking tape about 3/4 of the length & width and apply it to the back of the sign centered. sand the edges of the paper, well, (scale) paper thin for the entire border. distress the front w/ vertical strokes of either fine sandpaper or steel wool - or both! brush on micro kristal clear to the backside. apply to the building and burnish the paper to the building you've chosen. coat w/ clear if desired. http://dessignessurcesmurs.blogspot.com/ https://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&sp=nmt4&tl=en&u=https://www.publicitesmuralespeintes.com/&xid=17259,15700021,15700186,15700190,15700256,15700259,15700262
  8. "I have nothing else planned for today so I'm hoping for a finished bonnet at close of business. " beautiful! if only more of us could set realistic goals, I think there would be less discontent with our modeling.
  9. it's not a hobby for the impatient. or so I should have learned!
  10. looks like a good bit of detail/ kit. "...it looks like Meng have changed the graphic style for their instruction manuals, going with a bold outlined, partial colour style. It looks a bit overworked to my eye, but it's easy enough to follow ." I remember when instructions labeled the parts, so if you were adding a generator (for example), you learned what part of the engine it was. I wish manufacturers would go back to that format; I enjoy learning!
  11. * not for your smart phone! any concern setting a decal in direct contact with another? specifically, I want to cut Uschi plywood decals into strips and "plank" a surface. time is not an issue, so letting one dry completely before adding another is not a concern. I would be using micro-sol & micro-set, and probably an acrylic varnish airbrushed after all is done. will the process affect applied decals in a negative manner? thanks
  12. sometimes I will make a relief cut on the sprue away from the part to relieve tension (compression?) on the part I am trimming off. Q: should we be able to access the flickr page? I get a note indicating an invitation needed. following along; thanks
  13. not sure how far "down the rabbit hole" you intend to go, but perhaps some of these links can help: http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=9442 https://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=6206 https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/bronco/cb35156d01.html https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/bronco/cb35156d04.html https://web.ipmsusa3.org/content/italian-light-civilian-car-open-top https://armorama.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=features&file=view&artid=5298 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiat_500_"Topolino"
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