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LooseSeal

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Posts posted by LooseSeal

  1. I wasn't sure if I should post this here or the AFV section but I guess there may be more 'know-how' over here ūüôā

    I'm attempting to make vehicle camouflage for a 1/35 Leopard 2, and my book of reference photos shows them almost uniformly draped in coniferous branches. I've been looking all over though for what feels like weeks now and it seems nigh-on impossible to find that type of branch anywhere. Easy enough to find entire conifer trees but they're all in small scale, for train scenery I guess. Was going to get a Woodland Scenics full 'Forever Green' tree and snip off individual branches, but it's only 6 inches in height and £15 is a lot to spend if it might be too small. https://www.waylandgames.co.uk/trees/57474-6-7-classic-forever-green-3-pk

     

    Would this type of thing work, if it could be attached to branches? https://railsofsheffield.com/products/13412/woodland-scenics-wf54-any-scale-conifer-green-foliage

     

    Has anyone ever seen a good example of this type of foliage online? Or even something that could pass as similar? I'm not convinced my limited scratch-building skills could make the unique needley-ness of that type of branch.

     

    Thanks if anyone can lend a hand!

  2. It is weird! Do you use it straight from the bottle or thin it down?

    I'm considering passing it through some kind of strainer to see if there are clumps in there that I'm just not seeing.

  3. Hi guys,

     

    So, I have the black, white and grey Stynylrez primers. The white and grey have always sprayed pretty well for me, but for whatever reason, the black is just a complete nightmare... I've now tried 2 different bottles and had the same issues since the moment I opened them (so really shouldn't be due to the freezing issue I've heard about). For a while it will spray perfectly, then stop intermittently before just giving up entirely. Weirdly enough, when I then inspect the inners of the airbrush the nozzle isn't blocked and I can't find any clumps or dried bits anywhere else. I haven't a clue why it stops spraying, and why it only affects the black.

     

    Has anyone else had problems with the black? Is there any particular thinner I should be using? I think this is so frustrating because I love the finish of Stynylez and I don't think there's much better out there.

  4. Hi,

    So I'm generally a beginner in the hobby, but I'm even more a beginner in terms of using oil paints and I think I struggle to understand how to use them appropriately.

     

    I'm looking to use them to shade/highlight some 1/48 figures but unsure as to which techniques to use. As it stands the figures have been detail painted and had a flat varnish applied. From what I can tell there are two main ways for me to approach this (but I imagine they could be wrong and there could be others!): Either using the oil more or less straight out of the tube in tiny amounts in the right places, then using a dry brush to blend it in. Or thinning the paint slightly and applying it wet to the right area. Are those correct techniques and which would be the best/most effective? I've tried the former and it seems ok, but can't get the hang of applying oils wet at all...

     

    Also - some of the figures are Luftwaffe mechanics and therefore wearing black overalls. What are good colours for highlights and shadows for a black base? I tried using small amount of white for highlights, but it doesn't seem to look right, makes it look a bit grey actually...

     

    Thanks for any tips!

  5. Hi! I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or knows of any tutorials on how to attach rigging on aircraft. This is my first attempt at this and it's a tad daunting... it seems most of the stuff online is for biplane rigging, but I'm trying to figure out how to do the antenna on a Bf-109.

    I've seen people saying that they drill small holes in the areas where the wire is attached, but given that the model is already mostly finished, wouldn't that damage it? If drilling is the easiest way, how would you go about securing the wire inside the hole?

    I'm also mystified as to how to get the middle vertical wire attached to the horizontal... as you can tell I'm a beginner with rigging!

     

    Any advice very welcome! Oh, and I have the Uschi van der Rosten rigging to work with.

  6. There is one photo of Paper Doll, and oddly enough not only does it seem to have the white/grey exhaust stains but actually some substantial chipping on the leading edges of the wings, which you'd think would be unusual for Hellcats with the Gloss Sea Blue paint.

    I'm also toying with the idea of bullet hole damage, as both the plane and pilot didn't come back in great shape during the Battle of Leyte Gulf. So much so that it was immediately pushed overboard to make room for other aircraft.

    In general, though, I prefer a slightly worn/dirty look. But also... a kit this big and well-detailed is like a canvas crying out to be painted and shown off ūüôā

    • Like 2
  7. That's really interesting to know! Thanks guys. It's part of the reason I love this hobby that I get to learn stuff about the subjects I'm working on.

    You've given me something to think about, Work in Progress, as I'll be doing the 'Paper Doll' aircraft. So if he'd just got onto the USS Essex from his '5 kill' sortie then I'd imagine the engine has been under a pretty extreme workload. So I'm thinking a touch of brown/grey to show a previous easier mission, then black/brown over that again for the Leyte Gulf mission.

    Thanks Black Knight, too! Good to see someone else from NI! ūüėĄ

  8. Hi guys, this may be a pretty stupid/obvious question, but...

     

    I'm just doing initial research and planning before starting Airfix's 1/24 Hellcat, and one thing I've noticed in some reference photos (but not all of them) as well as a few builds is that the streaking from the exhausts is sometimes a whiteish/grey colour, as opposed to the black/brown I'd have imagined or seen on most other warbirds. I was wondering if anyone could shed light on what might have caused that colouration? Was it heavy use perhaps? The sea air? Different fuel types/producers? I genuinely have no idea, but don't want to get it entirely wrong.

     

    Thanks if anyone has any ideas!

  9. Thanks guys. I think the AK Air series is just incredibly fussy and needs their specific thinner, as not even the Mr Color Levelling thinner works (and that's alcohol, right? Just made it a horrible mess), so neither alcohol nor lacquer works... after trying 5 different brands.

    Even when it did sort of work with the Vallejo Medium Thinner, I was deeply unimpressed with the quality of the paint... I found it doesn't spray well, clogs up the airbrush, very hard to get the right ratio of thinner to paint.. And weirdly, impossible to do hairspray chipping with this paint as it simply does not scratch off in flakes, it almost comes off like soft leather.

     

    So I've given up on AK (not my first bad experience with them, but it will be the last) and decided to go with the RLM range in Mission Models.

  10. Hi guys,

     

    I recently got the AK Air Luftwaffe Camouflage set for a 1/48 BF-109 G-6. I'm just wondering if anyone else has used these paints and how they've used them? I tried thinning them with Mr Hobby Self-levelling thinner but it just turned into a gloopy mess. Neither Tamiya nor AK's so-called "high compatibility" thinner worked either, so the only one I had on hand which did seem to work was Vallejo's acrylic Medium Thinner. But - the paint when applied seems to have an almost leathery texture to it... Is this normal? It also seemed to bubble across the surface until it was dry, which was a bit disconcerting...

     

    Can anyone recommend a thinner which does work with AK Air? Or... should I just switch to RLM paints from a different brand? I was thinking of Lifecolor...

  11. Hey guys, I'm working on a Trumpeter 1/16 T-34/85, wondering about something and hoping any T-34 experts might know!

     

    Would the interior of the tank be a smooth finish or more of a rough cast? Ie: something I can replicate by stippling Mr Surfacer. Reference photos are either severely rusted and in bad condition, or just inconsistent or unclear. The front glacis interior does seem to have a texture to it, but the side walls not so much.

     

    If anyone can offer greater clarity, that would be appreciated!!

     

  12. Found a German site, Modular, which offers the perfect dimensions in rectangular brass bars, so that's a start!

     

    As regards to attaching the rope to the FRIES, I was wondering whether the top loop of the metal rope could slot in the top of a short, plastic tube, and the rest of the rope could then slot into the bottom when the model is positioned, also making it removable. If it was a tight enough fit then it shouldn't wobble.

     

    Not sure if I explained that well, so here's a very crude illustration ūüėĄ

     

    spacer.png

     

    Obviously it isn't accurate in any way, but if it worked it might be a sacrifice worth the end result. A big if, though!

    • Like 1
  13. Yes, thank you! I've just had a look at some of their stuff. I reckon a U-shaped brass rod could be turned into more or less the right shape, then the slide-out bar soldered on and the brackets added from spare PE.

     

    Would a soldered joint be strong enough to support the weight? I've had mishaps with over-estimating solder before...

  14. Thank you for the ideas guys! I'm sort of stalled at the moment anyway as I'm noticing some other kit mistakes that need to be sorted too.

     

    I was indeed thinking about replacing the entire FRIES system, using steel rod for the slide-out bars. Need to think on what to use for the rectangular structure though

     

    This is the type of FRIES we're talking about, because there seem to be two variants, an older and newer version. Typically the newer one¬†would have been much easier to replace! ūüėĄ

     

    spacer.png

     

    If I was to replace it with a strong metal version, I'd need to figure out how to create the attachment points at the end (I think the red hoops can be sacrificed to make it work..).

    And more importantly, how to attach the 'ropes' to the attachment points. My original 'fantasy' idea was to be able to somehow 'plug' the 'ropes' into the attachment points so that the model could be removed at will (for transport/cleaning etc). How to actually achieve that, however, is bewildering me...

     

    @Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies I've never worked with carbon fibre before, would you use it for the 'ropes' or the FRIES system itself? Could it be shaped to look like a rope? The steel rod I got is pretty strong, although there is naturally a bit of spring to it... but the advantage is that I can coil it at the bottom to give as sturdy a base as possible.

  15. So I recently picked up the new Kitty Hawk 1/35 MH-60L, along with the fantastic resin figures, and immediately thought it would look great as a diorama scene from the Battle of Mogadishu. I'm probably being a bit overambitious given I've never done a diorama, time will tell...

     

    The big issue I want to decide on before I get started building is the practicality of showing the Black Hawk in a hover, with the 2 fast-ropes on the ground. I guess the advice I'm looking for is... is the best way to do this to use something like a clear acrylic tube underneath the model as a stand? Or is there a better way my un-diorama-trained brain is not considering?

     

    I was thinking of using steel rod (wrapped in fabric) to replace the rope, and while I'm fairly sure they could support the weight, I realised that the bars which extend out from the cabin are going to flex under the weight.. and I can't think of a way to get around that issue.

    I've seen a couple of examples of the same idea, but in smaller scale and the sacrificing of detail around the fast-rope system which I don't think I can get away with at 1/35.

     

    Also.. can anyone recommend a good scale equivalent of fast rope? The one provided in the kit is much too short.

     

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

    • Like 2
  16. Hi all! I came back to modelling a while ago but have only been working on modern jets since then, and have now turned my attention to WWII tanks... but finding the model a big departure from what I'd become used to with the jets and a bit overwhelming for now, and I'm only at the planning phase.... So I'm going to ask some probably very stupid and obvious questions here, but if anyone can bear with me and answer even one or two that would be so much help! I've bought a few magazines and books to prepare, like the AK Tanker stuff, but I just have more questions now than before!

     

    I'm building a Dragon 1:35 Tiger I Early Production 'Tiki' Battle of Kursk... ideally it will be slightly battle damaged and a tad dirty, of course.

     

    1. So I think I understand what a filter is finally, but I've read that it should be applied over a matt/flat finish and not gloss, is that true? If so, at which stage is the gloss coat applied? I think this is one of the biggest things to get my head around.. the stages of coat application seem quite different to what I've been doing with jets. I have no idea when I should be using gloss or flat and what effects can be applied over what coat. For example, should chipping be done only on a flat surface?

    Also... what exactly is a dot filter? Still not clear on that one.. what effect does it add?

    2. As far as the chipping technique goes.. which is better (or easier for an AFV beginner), using foam to simulate the chips, using a pointed brush, using a toothpick/blade and picking the paint off or a combination? I know that there are also things like Mig's chipping fluids, but that seems a bit beyond me for now. I'm planning to use Vallejo Model Color 118 'Middlestone' as the revealed surface colour, filled in darker in the centres.

    3. Which colour of primer is usually best? This one has me confused because I've seen so many different ones.. from a rust colour to black to various greys.. does it really matter? I'm not a huge fan of pre-shading on aircraft so it wasn't important to me then.

    4. I haven't used pigments all that much, so in relation to using them for dirt effects on the roadwheels or exhaust rust, for example.. how are the pigments sealed in? Just with some thinner?

    5. And finally... a really specific question more about the model than techniques in case anyone should happen to know, but what kind of earth colour would one expect of the Kursk region presuming it's wet? Lighter or darker soil?

     

    Thanks if you made it this far and can offer any advice, even any that isn't asked for!!

  17. 9 minutes ago, Giorgio N said:

     

     

    The original post clearly asked about types currently in service, none of the types mentioned is today in service in Britain 

     

    I guess i was was distracted by the rather odd inclusion of the BBMF, but hey thanks for the condescension in response to a mere suggestion. You sound like a fun chap.

     

    • Like 2
    • Confused 1
  18. Hey! Can anyone with a spray booth (the small portable variety, the only type I can afford!) tell me whether it would help with removing carpet fibres/dust in the airbrushing process. I've had an awful time painting the current model due to uncontrollable hairs floating about in the upstairs of the garage. Can't get rid of the carpet and nowhere else to go...

     

    Would I be right in thinking the spray booth would suck them in before they got to the wet model surface??

     

    Thanks!

  19. Hello! So I'm starting my second model of the year (Tamiya 1/32 F-16CJ) and I'd like to try adding my own details this time round, and thought I'd start with extra cabling around the engine.

     

    Can anyone give some tips or provide a link to a good article about this topic? At the moment I'm not entirely sure on what type of material (lead wire, aluminium, electrical wiring?) to use, the best way to bend them to shape or which particular glue is best to use. I got some aluminium tubing, but it seems so difficult to actually bend into the right shape.

  20. Thank you for all the non-bird poop related advice! ;-D In the end I've plumped for Alclad's Jet Exhaust and Pale Burnt Metal possibly with some X-19 Smoke afterwards...

     

    Delayar - That's a really awesome Falcon, I can only hope mine ends up even half as good! Would you mind if I messaged you at some point for some advice on the build? Nothing too detailed, haha.

    • Like 3
  21. Hi guys! So it's probably obvious by the question that I'm still fairly new and need a bit of advice... I'm currently planning out what I need to start on the Tamiya 1/32 F-16CJ and wondering how exactly people get that wonderful metallic with a hint brass/gold colour on the nozzle petals. Are there any specific paints anyone could recommend?

    I've just finished a 1/32 Super Hornet and wasn't very pleased with the painting of the nozzles there (ended up putting a cover over them), so would really like to do a bit better this time round.

     

    This is the sort of colour I mean:

     

    2113cu.jpg

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